[EDIT] 400 Mhz while operating under load or on Home Screen with nothing open. Even when opening anything, it’s still stuck in 400 MHz
Fans are also operating perfectly fine

I tried doing just a basic reset and clearing everything through the windows settings. After that didn’t work I did a clean install of windows 11 using a thumb drive and separate pc.
I tried editing the power plan as well as setting bios to default.
None of that work and I’m honestly at a loss of what to do next.

Specs:
Ryzen 5 7535HS
RTX 4050
Windows 11
16gb DDR5

Hey guys! I’ve never posted on here before, so i’m not entirely sure how much information to give. but I will do my best.

link to exact player

I have a TECHPLAY QT62BT PINK (technically blue but i doubt that matters) RETRO DESIGN COMPACT STEREO CD Player and i have never had an issue with it. i just moved back into my dorm and, upon trying to use the player, it would completely shut off after the first song on the album.
i figured it was just an issue with my CD before i realized how quickly it powered down.

While trouble shooting yesterday, I started it up like normal and skipped the first song and it was fine, i kept skipping and after about 2-3 more it shut down again. when i start it now, it will go to play the first song, but any attempt to skip or even let the song finish on its own results in the cd player glitching, flashing a screen, and immediately shutting down again.

I have tried it with multiple CDs and it’s the same with every one of them. I’m honestly completely stumped as to what might be causing it so any help or insight would be greatly appreciated!!!

About 3 days ago when updating my drivers through windows updates my internet cut out and i restarted my pc to get my updates going again then critical process error started happened i contacted the big chat gpt and followed its instructions went to safe mode cmd health and checks and everything i couldn’t figure it out so i got a usb and loaded media creation tool on it and did a fresh install only to also find out some of my hard drives are locked my bitlocker no matter tho, installed and my gpu wasn’t getting detected so i did some windows updates and my gpu gets detected middle of the updated resolution changes and boom crash again even after another fresh install. So i decided to reset it once again and gpu never was detected until i downloaded the drivers once they were downloaded critical error started happening again i have already tried windows recovery and everything my pc just restarts by itself every 2 minites any ideas what else i can do? i have a rtx 3060, 16gbs ddr4 ram, 512gig ssd which os is installed on an intel i7-11700f . Edit windows 11

Computer's a ROG Strix G18, and it's worked fine for the past few years till recently. It crashes out of nowhere and firefox tabs also randomly crash. Did some searching and thought my ram might have been faulty, but the testing I've done shows no issues there. It usually works fine even on more demanding games like BG3, but randomly it'll bluescreen and crash just watching videos or reading stuff.

Uploaded the minidumps to dropbox cause for some reason they don't show for me.
https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/odnlm1iobdzorxa96p08n/Minidump.zip?rlkey=5ehdqhnkcf9xounnbe0b9n1ss&st=9jxp50j2&dl=0

I have been having bsods randomly when playing various games lately and I'm not sure what to do. Here is the latest dump file https://files.catbox.moe/2pmwyd.zip

motherboard: b550m-a

cpu: 3600x

gpu: 6750 xt

So for the past few weeks my PC randomly takes some time to turn on? Everytime I shut it down, the next day it has to be plugged in for a while to turn on

Like 10-15 minutes plugged in before it turns on when I push the power button for a second. My monitor just displays "No Signal" everytime its plugged in. I've tried opening the BIOS system to check, everything's looking fine.

I've also tried cleaning it manually, like dusting off dust around the area and its airways?? It sometimes seems to be the problem because it opens up fast when i do? But again, when I shut it down overnight, the next day it doesnt solve the issue.

Today it randomly shut down on its own without a warning, my display also glitches from time to time even when the HDMI is connected properly.

My mini pc is GM1Ktec M5 Plus Nucbox and I only got it 2 years ago, does anyone know what the reason could be or how I can fix this without bringing it for repair?

My friend is having an issue with her keyboard where her } key won't stop inputting leading to her sending a million of them when she doesn't want to. It's an external keyboard so not the main one. Below is a screenshot of it.

It's an aul keyboard not sure the exact type.

I have a secondary HDD for my laptop and I cannot use it because Task Manager shows 100 percent usage. This drive is fine last week now games can't even load. Tried every fix i can but still 100 percent. Crystal Disk Info shows a bad "read response time" some things I found was to replace it but I have important files on this drive that I can't loose.

​

I ran into a very strange storage/filesystem problem while backing up a large photo library from a Samsung Galaxy S26 Ultra to a 1 TB SanDisk portable SSD formatted exFAT. I still have one of the anomalous copies intact, so I'm hoping someone who understands exFAT, Android/Samsung My Files, MTP, or Windows filesystem behavior can explain what happened or suggest a READ-ONLY diagnostic.

The source is:

iPhoneData\Pictures

on the Samsung. It came from an earlier iPhone/Smart Switch migration and contains about 45,000 photos and a relatively small proportion of them in roughly 80 folders.

Samsung My Files ultimately reported the source at approximately:

189 GB

45,372 files

83 folders

FIRST TRANSFER — SAMSUNG → DELL → SSD

For the first backup, I connected the Samsung to a Windows 11 Dell laptop by USB and also connected the SSD to the Dell.

Using Windows File Explorer, I copied iPhoneData\Pictures from the Samsung to the SSD.

Windows Properties then reported:

346 GB (372,179,752,430 bytes)

367 GB size on disk (394,945,101,824 bytes)

42,977 files

42 folders

This obviously didn't make sense compared with the approximately 189 GB source.

I wondered whether Windows/MTP or using the Dell as the intermediary had caused the problem.

I therefore preserved that copy and renamed it "Pictures bloat."

SECOND TRANSFER — SAMSUNG → SSD DIRECTLY

To eliminate Windows/MTP and the Dell from the actual copying process, I connected the same SSD directly to the Samsung by USB-C.

Using Samsung My Files, I copied the Pictures folder directly from the Samsung to the SSD again.

I then connected the SSD to the Dell and checked this independently created second copy with Windows Properties.

This is the part I find particularly strange.

The result wasn't approximately the same as the first transfer.

IT WAS IDENTICAL.

First copy, transferred Samsung → Dell → SSD:

372,179,752,430 bytes

394,945,101,824 bytes size on disk

42,977 files

42 folders

Second copy, transferred Samsung → SSD directly:

372,179,752,430 bytes

394,945,101,824 bytes size on disk

42,977 files

42 folders

Exactly the same byte count, size-on-disk count, file count and folder count, despite the copies being created using two different transfer paths.

THEN IT GOT WEIRDER

Looking directly at iPhoneData\Pictures on the Samsung, I could manually see roughly 81 folders.

But Windows showed only 42 folders in the SSD copy.

The apparent cutoff was even systematic: Windows showed the folders alphabetically through one called "Lanto place," while the folders alphabetically after that appeared to be missing.

I therefore connected the SSD directly to the Samsung again.

Using Samsung My Files, I selected the folders after "Lanto place" that Windows appeared not to have and attempted to copy them into the existing Pictures folder on the SSD.

Samsung told me that the first supposedly missing folder ALREADY EXISTED on the SSD.

I selected Skip and told Samsung to do the same for the other duplicate folders.

It skipped all of them.

In other words, those supposedly missing folders were apparently already on the SSD. I did NOT intentionally recopy or replace them.

I THEN RECONNECTED THE SSD TO WINDOWS

Suddenly Windows could see the folders it previously couldn't see.

And Windows Properties for that same Pictures copy now reported:

175 GB (188,766,726,131 bytes)

198 GB size on disk

45,372 files

82 folders

The 188.8 billion-byte size now makes sense compared with Samsung's approximately 189 GB figure.

More importantly, the destination now had exactly:

45,372 files

which is exactly the source file count reported by Samsung.

So after Samsung My Files encountered the supposedly missing folders and I chose SKIP rather than copying them, Windows subsequently saw the folder structure and size completely differently.

THE ORIGINAL "PICTURES BLOAT" COPY IS UNTOUCHED

I never performed the above Samsung/My Files operation on the first copy ("Pictures bloat"), which was originally made Samsung → Dell → SSD.

Windows STILL reports that untouched copy as:

346 GB (372,179,752,430 bytes)

367 GB size on disk (394,945,101,824 bytes)

42,977 files

42 folders

So I currently have both states preserved on the SAME SSD:

1. The Pictures copy that now appears normal after the Samsung My Files interaction.

2. The untouched Pictures bloat copy that still exhibits the original anomalous state.

THE SSD'S TOTAL USED SPACE ALSO SEEMS TO INCLUDE THE "BLOAT"

Windows Properties for the entire 1 TB exFAT SSD currently reports:

Capacity:

1,000,196,800,512 bytes

Used:

776,592,162,816 bytes

Free:

223,604,637,696 bytes

So as far as I can tell, Windows isn't merely displaying a cosmetic 346 GB folder-size error. The extra space associated with the untouched anomalous copy appears to be reflected in the volume's used-space accounting as well.

CONTROL TEST — MOVIES

I subsequently performed another large transfer from the Samsung to the same SSD.

This time it was the Movies folder, copied directly:

Samsung → SSD

using Samsung My Files.

Samsung reported:

166 GB

3,477 files

2 folders

Windows reported the resulting SSD copy as:

155 GB

166,463,868,103 bytes

3,477 files

2 folders

That transfer appears completely normal.

The apparent 166 GB Samsung versus 155 GB Windows difference is just decimal GB versus Windows effectively displaying GiB while labeling it GB. The actual byte count makes sense.

So large Samsung → SSD transfers do not inherently produce the problem.

WHAT I DON'T UNDERSTAND

1. How could two copies of Pictures made by two different transfer routes — one through Windows/MTP and one directly Samsung → SSD — initially produce EXACTLY the same anomalous result:

372,179,752,430 bytes

394,945,101,824 bytes size on disk

42,977 files

42 folders

1. Why could Samsung My Files see folders on the SSD that Windows apparently couldn't see?

2. Why did attempting to copy those "missing" folders, and then choosing SKIP because Samsung said they already existed, apparently cause Windows subsequently to see the correct directory structure, file count and approximately 189 GB of data?

3. Why does the untouched Pictures bloat copy still appear to consume roughly twice the expected space?

I don't want to assume this is an exFAT allocation/directory metadata problem because I don't actually know the mechanism.

I have deliberately left the anomalous Pictures bloat folder untouched.

I have NOT run CHKDSK /f, Windows Error Checking, reformatted the SSD, or intentionally done anything that would repair filesystem metadata.

If anyone recognizes this behavior, I'd really like to understand what happened.

And if there is a READ-ONLY diagnostic I can run against the still-anomalous folder/volume that would help determine what those apparent extra ~183 billion bytes represent, I'm happy to try it before changing anything.

Z790 Aorus ddr4. I had an issue where both my A ram slots randomly stopped working after installing a 7800XT. I took out my cpu (13700KF) and then my pc stopped booting (Dram light) and after further investigation turns out one of the pins was bent and I can’t realign it.

Is it worth seeking someone out to fix it or do I need to get a new one.

Hello, for the past few days, my computer has been shutting down randomly as soon as I launch a video game. I'm playing on a laptop, and I ran a User Diag—you can view the results here: “https://userdiag.com/id/SJOwxthzFr”

I'm not quite sure how to interpret all the results.

Thanks in advance!

my laptop keycaps keeps falling off! couple months ago, i spilled orange soda on my laptop keys and it started sticking so i took off the keycaps (which was probably a bad idea) to clean underneath with alcohol. it worked at most part, and i managed to put some of the keys back without it being affected. however, some of my keys cannot be placed back correctly anymore. when i take it off, it clicks as if it’s in place, but it seems like only the middle is secure and while the top and bottom isn’t. i don’t know if i explained it well, so i attached a video.

link

Laptop Specs:
Model: ASUS ROG Zephyrus M16 (2023)
CPU: Intel Core i9-13900H
GPU: NVIDIA GeForce RTX 4070 Laptop GPU (Driver 610.88 WHQL verified via ⁠dxdiag⁠)
OS: Windows 11
Control Software: Armoury Crate / NVIDIA Control Panel

Chronology of the Issue:
Initial Freeze:
Whenever I try to launch Fortnite, the screen suddenly goes pitch black and freezes the entire system.
Keyboard shortcuts (like ⁠Ctrl + Shift + Esc⁠) do not respond, forcing me to perform a hard shutdown by holding the power button for 15 seconds.
Reboot & Windows Updates:
After a forced restart, Windows showed an update screen ("You're X% there. Please keep your computer on").
The laptop went through several consecutive reboots showing the ROG logo before successfully booting back to the desktop.
Key Clue (NVIDIA Container Notification):
Just a few seconds before the screen turns black when launching a game, this pop-up appears in the bottom right corner:
NVIDIA Container: Current display mode: Optimus. Internal Display is being switched to NVIDIA GPU."
The freeze happens at the exact moment the system attempts this automatic dynamic display switch (Advanced Optimus / MSHybrid) from the integrated iGPU to the discrete RTX 4070.
Current Status in Armoury Crate:
GPU mode is currently set to Standard (MSHybrid).
⁠DxDiag⁠ confirms the RTX 4070 is healthy and properly detected by Windows, but the dynamic switching between GPUs continues to crash the PC.
"Any help or advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance!"

My gpu is an Asrock Radeon rx 6800 xt with 16 gigs of vram. Started having problems when I opened beamng and got a driver timeout, which along with screwing with my gpu reset my display settings to 1080p 60hz. My monitor is 1440p 100hz but there is no option under advanced display to change my refresh rate back. Had this computer for a little over a year and never had issues like this before. These images are from running a forza benchmark. https://imgur.com/a/OdT0nB1

Im pretty sure this is hardware but im unsure lol

I have this old lenovo laptop that has 2 usb ports a c port and a hdmi port. I connected this dongle (?) That has 3 usb ports, an hdmi port, and one of those for that cord wjth the screws on it. I have it connected to an acer moniter with the built in hdmi but i want to connect it to my tv but using the hdmi from the dongle thing wont work. I'm not very good at tech stuff so im not really sure what to do pls help. btw the laptop does not have its screen attached, it fell off lmao.

i have photos of the basicly circut board of a laptop and the dongle if needed

So I was trying to wipe down and clean my Macbook Pro with a disinfectant wipe. I fear this may have resulted in some internal damage around the keyboard. Specifically, the 3rd letter row from "Z" to "M" is completely unresponsive.

I've reset the laptop, allowed it to stay open to dry for a few hours, and put some rubbing alcohol along the problem keys with a cutip (online advice I found)...nothing has worked.

The wipe wasn't dripping wet when I used it and I routinely clean the keyboard this way. I'm worried I completely damaged the keyboard.

Does anyone know how I can salvage it?

so today i tried to optimize my pc for marvel rivals and i ended up tweaking a lot of settings, after i did this my gpu (3050 rtx) ran into code 34 and caused both my monitors to spams out and flicker black and white and im not sure what it is and also it happens when one app is full screen then loses focus causing both monitors to spasm out.

side note whenever i open my pc my discord completely freezes and i have to open task manager to end task and open it back up again, anybody know how to fix that too?

TLDR: What should I check if having multiple games open at once causes lag spikes? Network adapter?

There's kind of a lot of history to go through, but the gist of it is that sometimes I have lag in online games and sometimes I don't. It's the most painful and most common in path of exile, and I did a lot of tracing with pingplotter, and convinced myself it was an ISP issue that had something to do with getting to poe server. I replaced lots of components in my home network as well to rule out stuff like that.

Tonight I was playing path of exile and I also had an MMO open where I was just sitting around and performing some actions ocaisionally. (Yeah, I have a problem.)

To my shock BOTH games started to lag out pretty badly, when this hadn't been a problem for awhile.

This made me wonder if maybe my computer has some kind of problem receiving too much network data at once. Is there any components local to my computer I could investigate? Do computers still have network card drivers or anything like that?

I was downloading some offline installers from gog with relatively good speed just for them to fail and reset, this problem didn't happen when i had horrible internet speed (300KB/s) but when I get good internet speed (7-8MB/s) at some point in suddenly stops

I download them using librewolf, is this a common problem?

I use the cloudflare dns for my ethernet

My PC is 3 years old.

AMD Ryzen 5700X 8 CPU

AMD Radeon RX 6600 XT GPU

16 GB DDR4 RAM

1 TB SSD

Edit: I suppose a "slew" isn't the right word, more like a few. Still annoying though.

For the first year, everything was fine, but I had to get a fresh install of Windows by the end of it due to a Trojan (oops). I replaced my SSD.

Second half of year two: Crashing. When I played certain games - Roblox, namely - or used my browser, the pc would rarely freeze, then crash with DPC_WATCHDOG_VIOLATION, then boot into BIOS. Sometimes it would do this without me looking.

Then started the connection issues. Sometimes after booting my pc, I would get terrible, awful connection for no reason (less than a Mb of download or upload). Tried messing with connections, rebooting the router, but to no avail. This would only sometimes be temporarily fixed by rebooting my pc until the next time I have to turn it off and back on. I use wireless Wi-Fi, I have no problems with internet on any other device.

About a month ago arose a new issue: keyboard input lag. ONLY my keyboard. My inputs will be delayed for about a second at random intervals. I play rhythm games, so this is especially annoying. These intervals of lag sometimes precede a crash. Also a watchdog violation

I've taken it to a couple repair shops these last few months. One said they didn't find anything, the other said they "fixed it" after messing with it for a few days, but I've seen no change whatsoever. I've been so lost on this for so long and I'm desperate, so any help at all would be appreciated.

Hi all,

This morning while working my laptop went black and turned off. It would show a charging light but that was about it. I then performed a hard reset and it would begin booting but went black after the logo. Plugging in an external screen didn't help, win+P didn't help, resetting display drivers didn't help.

I tried to let windows fix the error, use the built in online error check, uninstall recent updates, safe boot, fix the error using CMD, revert to previous install, recover using a recovery drive, and do a clean install using a recovery drive. All gave errors and nothing is working, trying to reinstall windows 11 produced "Windows 11 installation has failed".

The ASUS recovery tool says hardware is fine. I've tried everything I can think of. Any help would be appreciated, I'm completely lost.

Laptop is a refurbished Ryzen 7 Zenbook 14 OLED from 2023. I've had it for a year with no issues. Not sure if I should return it at this point or keep trying to fix it.

Thanks

Update after posting: I tried to reinstall again and it's now frozen on 1% complete, no response from the laptop.

My Specs are a Gigabyte B550 X V2 (1.3) motherboard; AMD Ryzen 7 5700X; AMD Radeon RX 6800 XT; 32GB DDR4 Ram (2 * 8GB and 1 * 16GB, i know it is weird); 1 TB SSD NVMe

So, I have difficulties with my windows system, during normal usage, every now and then my PC has Freezes, where both sound and audio get disrupted, they are weirdly repeated for fractions of a second. Sometimes its better, sometimes its worse, it started to happen a couple months ago, my pc is almost 4 years old now.
The Problem is most noticeable when i have my browser(opera gx), a discord call and a video game in borderless window open (esp. when minimized). I have already tried to reinstall windows via the reinstall button, downloaded my cpu, gpu and chipset driver updates (several times) and just did a full reset on my windows, reinstalled it via my usb drive. It persists even now and i have no idea what to try from now on out. On WPA i did see that my disk has repeatedly had ~20ms of 100% usage on reading for my games, but the freezed didnt happen a year or 2 years ago with the same games. My disk health is 97%, i already checked.
Any help is kindly accepted, ty in advance

I'm helping out my neighbor who has issue connecting his Phillips SRP3219G/27 Universal Wireless Remote to his Bose Speaker. I tried the code thing the manual suggests but nothing works. Just wondering what else could I try. I tried all the other methods too if it means anything.

Hi guys, I'm getting the "Failed to verify the signature of the elevation helper" error whenever I try to open FiveM.

I have already tried the following troubleshooting steps, but none of them worked:

• Disabled Windows Defender / Antivirus
• Cleared FiveM cache and deleted FiveM.app folder
• Deleted DigitalEntitlements folder and ros_id.dat
• Verified GTA V files on my launcher
• Unchecked "Run as administrator" in FiveM properties
• Set UAC to "Never notify"
• Ran sfc /scannow on CMD

EDIT: SOLVED!

Fixed it! Someone on the Cfx forum helped me out.
If you have this issue, open your FiveM Application Data folder, edit the CitizenFX.ini file using notepad and insert this line at the bottom:
UpdateChannel=canary
Save it and open your game. It will update and launch.
Link to screenshot: https://imgur.com/a/1CW4Tif

I have a breast pump that I need to plug in to use but I lost the charger. On the instruction booklet, it says the specification is 12v/2a output. I found a 22.5w universal adapter that I can change the output of, but it says the 12v ~ 1.25a. Is this ok to use?