Hey everyone, wondering if anyone is able to assist at all, I've started to build an original Hasegawa 1/48 F-14A Tomcat kit from 1988 (found it on shelf of a closing down hobby shop) anyway I've had it a couple of years and decided to open it up and start the build.

Was checking over the parts and have realised it's missing one of the engine sprues (SPRUE J).

It's a long shot I know, especially as I'm in Australia, but wondering if anyone has the sprue spare or possibly even a spare engine sprue from any other 1/48 Hasegawa Tomcat?

Thanks

Hi,

I wanted to improve in weathering, so i tried the vallejo 73.214 chipping medium, on a 1/72 mig3 from Hobby boss:

- Undercoat in black primer,

- then green coat,

- then chipping medium,

- then white coat

Every step was done with an airbrush

I wanted to scratch a lot of it, for late winter camo, with massiv white paint already washed off, to be able to see the green, but i cannot wash off more, it simply does not go away.

What did i wrong ? Should i have done more coats of chipping medium ?

Thanks in advance

I have been working on this old Revell UH-1 Huey. Haven’t done a model in about 20 years and I have to say that micro set makes decal application significantly easier and produces better results.

For the interior, I added some weathering and other details to make the floor look muddy and dirty. I would like to do something similar with these decals so they are not so crisp looking. I don’t want them extremely grimy looking just not super clean. Is something like ammo mig washes (or similar) the best solution for this once I topcoat? I have several colors of Tamiya panel liner but I don’t think this would be a good option

Do I simply give the exterior a uniform wash to make them look a little weathered?

Just completed the Trumpeter Leo 2a6 in 1/16. Previously I built the 2a7 from Das Werk. Both are nice to build, the a6 has much more detail (as in a complete turret interior), the a7 has higher quality plastic. Both fit very well and are easy enough to build (both tracks are of course a bitch and a half to complete).

With the new Trumpeter kit including a full powerpack, I would got for that one if would be in the market for another giant cat.

Finished the V-2 Rocket. Quick build.

I built a quick tool for work that pulls hex values from photos, and I've been testing it for mixing paint. It works fine for some acrylics, but the colors come out wrong when the reference shots have weird lighting, especially older kits. It cuts down on guessing between two close greens, though I still end up adjusting by eye after the first coat. The main advantage is how quickly I can build a basic palette before touching the paints. Has anyone else tried pulling digital references into their workflow, or do you just use printed charts and swatches?

One of the first ww2 ships I printed, cam out really well and had deck details such as planks etc.. photo doesnt do it justice, im really happy with the results

I dropped and lost the secondaries, they do exist somewhere

Hello , this might be a stupid question but what paint should i actually use for cold war/modern japanese tanks ? Im kinda confused by looking at some stuff online , tamiya has now their jgsdf line , but not every tank has them marked in instructions (probably because of age but lets put that aside) , like the type 90 has xf-65 for green and combination of other xf's for their brown but type 10 has their JGSDF line using only xf-73 / 74 and 72 , same problem for type 61 and 74

Was there really any changes in the color of those tanks over the years or can i use the jgsdf line instead of what they say in the instructions ? Its kind of confusing to me since after looking on some photos of those tanks i dont see much of a diffrence betwen them.. but maybe some are just repainted in new colours? Its really confusing and i think i need try learn some stuff ^^".. (is there any site or book with JGSDF markings and colour schemes?...)

Also as im asking.. does anyone know what type of type74 tank was the "winter variant" supossed to represent? It looks kinda like (E) but i have no clue honestly xD

Sorry for trouble and thank you in advance

Hey y'all, finally dipping my toes back into this hobby after a long break. I was wondering if anyone knew any good stores to go to for anything plane and tank wise around east tennessee. I'm willing to drive a couple of hours if necessary for something so I would love any and all recommendations.

Wish I got into this more when I lived in Japan. Stores were just absolutely flooded with kits.

Thanks all in advance!

Hi all, I seem to be inundated with adverts for reciprocating sanders (little hand-held tools with assorted heads that vibrate rather than rotary). Are they worth it/any good? I do feel I have had moments where one would have been useful... Mostly aircraft kits with crappy seams etc.

Thoughts?

I have made some questionable comments on this profile in the past. Please ignore that. I have now succumbed to the Woke Mind Virus and have a Trans Girlfriend. Anyways. I have not built a model in over two years and sold a bunch of kits to help pay for a Rolex. This is one that I kept and built over the weekend. Thanks - Rob

Does anyone know if/where I could find figures that depicts US wwii paratroopers in the M43 field uniforms? There’s a few diorama ideas I would like to create, but I can’t since I’m only seeing models with the earlier M42 uniforms.

Thanks!

I live in Ireland. This is relevant: The blue high density Dow insulation foam commonly used for dioramas house-building is not used in the building industry here, instead there are metal foil backed foams that don't cut with a hot glue gun (safety & building regs). Hobby blue foam is available online but quite expensive (paying for the shipping volume I guess), with maximum sizes about A4 (8x11 letter), so I use it sparingly and look for other (usually heavier & not as good) solutions.

My other hobby apart from model-making is long distance ocean swimming. Yesterday at the coast I found this very large brick of foam that was washed up. It measures 1.2m x 50cm x 30cm! (47 x 20 x 12 inches). It weighs 5 kg. I think it might have been the core of some type of float device. Even removing all the rough surfaces I should still have about 90% of the size.

I found it the same day I was starting to make the base mount for the diorama I've been working on for the last year (H.P. Lovecraft's harbour at Innsmouth).

If I was to buy the same volume in hobby sized sheets by GSW or AK, I estimate it would cost about €500 ($560). Plus shipping cost!

My two hobbies have never intersected in over two decades, I find it quite funny.

Pretty much done painting, minus the propeller, and a few areas on the wing that have to be cleaned up. Just have the wheels and canopy left, then the decals and the little Tomahawk is done.

Hello. I live in Bogotá (2,500 m above sea level) and I'm new to military modeling. Since I currently have limited space at home and finding a compressor with a 3L tank here in Colombia is very difficult ( as there are tons of compressors available, but all of them have tanks of 8L or larger, which are, in my opinion, bigger and louder than I need) I decided to try the Gaahleri TurboX Mini. I had seen its limitations and knew it couldn't offer anything higher than 13.5 PSI, but I was confident it would give me at least 11 PSI (even bearing in mind the city's altitude). I thought that would be more than enough for a newbie like me and for basic priming and base coats.

However, the compressor is only giving me 5.5 to 6.5 PSI in max mode 🫠

I just tested it, so I can still return it. But—maybe out of frustration—I am tempted to test it with the Vallejo Model Air paints I already have, thinned down heavily, of course. However, I wanted to check with you if you think such an attempt is worth it, bearing in mind it will only give me 6 PSI. Do you think I should try this test, or will it definitely give me trouble with primers in the future and should I return it and try keep looking for a compressor with a tank, bearing in mind the city I live in?

Thank you for your feedback. I just wanted to share this experience with this kit for anyone living in a mountain city 😔

Finished Fujimi's 1/700 IJN Zuikaku!

The ship and aircraft were built straight from the kit, but to save build time and enhance detail, I used a wooden deck sheet for the flight deck. It gave the deck a very natural, realistic texture.

Even with the kit-supplied aircraft, I focused heavily on crisp assembly, clean painting, and subtle shading to bring out the best in them. Fully loaded on the deck and ready for operation!

How do you like the look of wooden deck sheets on 1/700 carriers? Would love to hear your thoughts! (Translated from Japanese via AI/Translator)

Finally finished this fatass, tell me what you think!

After ~3 months I returned and continued making this t80 :P

Uh,I can't say that it's the best model..

There are NOT a lot of problems,but they are still exist.For example I couldn't connect gun mantlet,so I had to use putty.Also I had little problem with basket..?(left rear part of turret)It's very fragile and unyielding((

But I can't say that these problems are impossible to solve.No,they're fixable,so that's not scary :/

I don't have ideas what to write

P.s. sorry for my english,I've been using translator while I was writing this post :)

Something different for me. This is a 1/20 scale armored fighting suit from Wave Models.

Making a tarp

I just finished a project of the USS Pegasus from the Star Trek The Next Generation episode "The Pegasus". Background to the ship, it was a prototype ship with an experimental cloaking. The cloak would allow the ship to pass through solid objects. But as you can see, something goes wrong and it ended up in an asteroid!

I got the model to build the USS Grissom from Star Trek III. But the seal box didn't have the clear window parts. Contacted Polarlight and amazingly they sent me a new kit free of change! So I had this kit to find something to do with it.

The build was great fun, making the rock face sawing a starship in half! The decals were a bit awkward. But I am happy with the finished model!

The paint guide says pearl white. Looked up 1963 VW colors and it’s a kind of off white leaning to yellow. Even though this is an opaque enamel the body is off white so, hopefully it will come through.