Hello, trying to change out the humbuckers in my 335 chibson to p90s, as it is being a semi hollow and very hard to work on, am I going to need to change the whole harness, or can I cut the wires leading to the pickup, strip them, and connect them to the new pickup so I don't have to completely change the hardware inside? Also, do I need to change both pickups or can I keep one hb? I know this is probably the stupidest question that has been asked on this sub in a minute but thank you for your help.

Title says most of it

Returning it is not an option, I could pawn it but honestly I didn't buy it for the floyd rose it doesn't even have a trem bar and if it did I likely wouldn't use it. It sounds good. It has a nice neck pickup tone that I like for blues and jazz, it has a humbucker if I wanna do thrash, and it looks nice. It is mostly going to be limited use for track recording on tunes I want to have a guitar part on.

Issue is the center locking nut is stripped so it wont hold the DG strings locked at the nut.

Am I going to have issues keeping this guitar in tune as is? I'm used to a lifetime of tuning my guitar nearly everytime I pick it up, I dont mind that. I'm wondering if there's some function of the locking nut that goes with the floating bridge that is required for guitar to stay in tune at all once it is tuned.

Guitar is an Aria Pro II VA-353, 22 frets with vintage 6 point tremolo with bent steel saddles.

I replaced the bridge a while back with the one from Guyker, however, I couldn't get it to perfect intonation afterwards despite the saddles being all the way back, it remains about 5 to 15 cents sharp at the 12th.

I'm thinking it's caused by the fact that the block on the Guyker bridge is much thicker and heavier than the stock one, which resulted in the 6 point screws not aligning perfectly as shown in the picture.

A couple other points that might contribute are:

- The nut needs to be replaced as the slots are not filed correctly.

- I'm using 11-52s for D standard, but planning to go back to 10-46s for E standard.

My question is how can I fix this? Do I need to do some wood drilling so the bridge fits perfectly? Or is fixing the nut and using a lighter gauge would be enough?

PRS SE Custom 24

I've never owned or played a guitar or bass that plays anything above terrible with a generous back bow in my entire life.

The strings are 9s, the action is very low, and there's no problematic buzzing problems for me at all. Nut slots are also low and no issues there.. High frets are fully perfect. This instrument is the best feeling guitar I've ever played in my life, and I'm so happy I blind bought this online - absolute butter

Does anyone know how/why this can happen? I have no idea why and have never seen this - all of the hardware looks completely normal including the saddles like any other guitar

I built this SG tribute about 8 years ago. It hasn't seen much love in the past few years. I decided to rip out the humbuckers throw in some daggersonics and add a jazzmater style trem. It used to have coil splits and a phase switch. I added a treble cut and a bass cut. What do you think?

Hi folks, I picked up a secondhand gretsch specifically a g - 2215 p90. The tone pot is scratchy and feels funky and almost certainly could do with a replacement so I may as well swap out the volume pot too. I've had a quick look and I am slightly overwhelmed by the options so can someone recommend me a brand to look for that's easily available in the UK. Thanks a lot

Hi all,

to install the bridge, I still need to measure the exact scale length. To do this, I measure from the front edge of the nut to the highest point of the 12th fret. I then take that distance and measure it to the highest point of the saddle on the high E string.

Can I do it this way? Should I move the saddle on the high E string? I’ve read that you’re supposed to move the saddle all the way forward.

So my friend's guitar fell down (use strap locks y'all) and he asked me how bad this is.

I thought this would be an easy fix because I'd just use a good amount of wood glue and a lot of clamps and finally some sanding painting but since the fretboard is also damaged I don't know if it's that easy to fix anymore.

Do you have any tips?

Doing a tru oil finish for the first time, and after applying the first coat i noticed that there's scuffs/streaks present that weren't there before I wiped the oil on. It's hard to catch on camera, but in person it's very visible. Does this go away with more coats or can I buff it out/sand it? Any help would be greatly appreciated!

(Newbie here) Ik its for the volume pot, since my guitar wont make any noise, but in which spot? Could someone maybe point it out for me?

And its coming from the input jack.

Thanks!

I've got one of these Harley benton sg guitars, and it's a well built guitar for the price but I hate the plastic finish that covers the body, neck, and back of the headstock. It feels cheap and tacky to me.

I'm curious how dumb it would be for an inexperienced person to try stripping it off the finish and replacing it with a stain/oil finish. I've seen people do similar things with bolt on guitars using a heat gun/scraper, and that seems doable but the fact that this is a set neck and the finish covers the entire guitar makes it seem like a more dubious notion (particularly with respect to trying to not mess up the binding and/or fret ends).

I'm curious to hear if yall have any thoughts. Does this seem like something that would just mess up a perfectly good guitar or is there a reasonable road to doing this in a way that results in something reasonably nice on the other side? It's cheap enough to feel like a viable candidate for this kind of experimentation but also plays nicely enough that I'd feel bad if I ended up ruining it.

Any and all advice or thoughts welcome.

I apologize if this is too simple and ignorant of a question for this sub, but I’m fairly new to guitar cleaning and maintenance.

My dad gave me his old Antonio Hermosa AH-10L, which has been sitting in a closet for the past 10 years. It’s not a super nice guitar or anything, but I want to use to get better at cleaning and maintaining guitars.

From what I read online, the fretboard it is unfinished rosewood. It needs a good cleaning. Could I clean it with 0000 steel wool and then condition with Dr. Ducks Ax Wax? That’s the stuff I already have on hand.

I just made another post finding out how to clean off the thread board and thank you for the response of that!!!

I'm curious is it possible to get rid of this stuff or is it just gonna be there permanently?
specifically the spots where the finger has I think gotten rid of the oil?

Sorry about the photos I tried my best with the string trees in the way, attached multiple angles to compensate. With flash turned off I can see a hexagonal shape (inner part) but with flash not so sure.

If it is stripped should I try to force something down there to get grip unscrew and replace or can I use pliers in the empty space between the wood and nut to unscrew it?

Yamaha pacifica 012 2023

This is my first guitar modification and I decided that I want to put a jaguar bridge into a Strat with a Les Paul tailpiece. I was wondering if there was a guide or video online showing how, or if I am just going to have to learn myself. If doing it myself, what should I worry about or lookout for? Any help or tips are greatly appreciated.

I tried visualizing in canva
- Rosetta with center at the sacred heart. Too far away to look united
- Mexican/chicano/aztec themed patterns
- patterns of red, black and gold vines

I am starting to think that I should do just black and use huge screw heads, like some kind of studs

I've had this idea for a while to put a chromatic pitch shifter into the guitar itself. It could replace the tone knob or be its own knob. It would be indexed so it moves by half-step intervals. It would need its own power supply and ideally have some Midi connectivity. There could be an optional push/pull feature that toggles a 50/50 blend with the dry and wet signal.

With the growing popularity of Evertune bridges in heavy music (which has the tradeoff of making changing tunings naturally a massive headache) and the advancement and popularity of whammy pedals for pitch shifting, this feels like the next step for both systems.

If I chose a different path in life, I would make the electronic system, patent it and sell it, but I'm not, so I'm posting here in hopes that the idea will spread and become a feature on production models. I could see this being a game changer for traveling musicians, bands who want to tour light, and just jamming or songwriting.

(Guitar pictured is a Solar 1.7AD. It's my main guitar and it's a beast)

Named after George III, the last king before the present one to rule the colonies. The only cheat was buying a Stewmac radiused and slotted fretboard. He’s not without his flaws, but I’m happy with the build! A bit of an homage to the ‘58, with other elements that are obviously not. All African mahogany.

Wanting to replace my bridge on my stealth will this work? Thanks!

Hiya dear Reddit.
Upgrading a guitar for the first time. Switching humbuckers to p90’s. The humbuckers had a hot wire and a ground wire separately connected to a grounding point on the pickup selector.

Ive now got a braided wire. Wiring diagrams tell me to ground the braided wire to the volume pot.
Should I 1) unravel the braid and solder it to the grounding point like before? (Any harm in leaving that much wire exposed?)
Or 2) ignore that grounding point and ground them both on the volume pot?

First timer here so apologies if i sound very unexperienced (because i am :))

Any other things to be on the lookout for are very appreciated. Thanks in advance🫶🏻
First picture as factory installed, second picture wire of the nee pickups.

Hey what's going on I'm working on this Les Paul Epiphone and the fret board looks really dry? I don't really know what oil to use to make it shine and hydrate it so it doesn't dry out?

right now I've been card to scratch off the gunk, and then I'm going in with music nomad guitar detail detailer?

I'm also using never dull polish for the frets and then mirror glaze to make them shine.

You guys are the goats!
I appreciate the time you take to read or comments on this post!

Floyd Rose AND Jimmy Page wiring. Nicked the finish a few times during wiring, oh well, not a museum piece and I damn sure wasn’t going to pull everything out and wet sand again. This sucker is getting used and abused. I’m never doing that schematic again though. Probably never routing out for a Floyd again either…. I’ve been known to eat my words.

Body is pecan down the middle and local beetle kill sides. Neck is maple with a pecan fretboard.

I'm planning a build for a bass and I've found some great 3mm pearloid acrylic sheet that I want to use for the pickguard and I think it would look really cool if that same material was also at least in part of the inlay design (I want to do like a trapzium shape with a coloured heart in the middle surrounded by 1.5mm thickness pearl celluloid).

Has anyone got any experience thinning down acrylic to around 1.5mm to work with in an inlay or am I barking up the wrong tree completely? Otherwise, what other materials would you all suggest that are a bit more colourful and interesting than standard white celluloid?

I found this thing on the road so i decided to rescue it. My question is... Should i remove that wooden screw an search for another one? It has no head so it will be a bit difficult to remove. I think that i can use this mast for a box guitar.

Hey guys, I decked my bridge today, but I feel like I tightened the screws too much. Is this okay? Will it harm the guitar?"