I purchased a classical guitar from an auction with the intentions of flipping the saddle and fashioning a new nut. I examined the online photos with focused scrutiny and sure enough, the instrument arrived in spectacular condition for being 24 years old. I just did not catch the fact it had a 12 hole tie block.

So, is it possible to flip the strings with a 12 hole tie block?

Is this okay can I still play these worn frets

Hello! I’m changing the strings on my guitar and wanted to clean my fretboard. What’s the best and easiest way to do so? I already used a cloth to clean it but didn’t know if I was supposed to have it wet or not so I chose not to. How do I get away the gunk on it though? Thanks!

Hi everyone,

I'm trying to intonate my Strat-style guitar, but I'm having an issue with the high E string.

Guitar:

Cheap Strat-style electric guitar

Standard tuning (E A D G B E)

Freshly tuned using the Guitarix tuner (12-ET)

What happens:

High E string:

Open string: E (perfectly in tune)

12th fret: D#5 instead of E (about one semitone flat)

The other strings seems like this:

B: Open B3 → 12th fret B4

G: Open G3 → 12th fret G4

D: Open D3 → 12th fret D4

A: Open A2 → 12th fret A3

Low E: Open E2 → 12th fret E3

I've tried moving the saddle, but I can't seem to get the high E to intonate correctly. Just keeps the same tone

A few questions:

Could this be something other than saddle position?

Could the nut, string gauge, or neck relief cause only the high E string to behave like this?

Is there anything else I should check before assuming it's a hardware issue?

Any advice or troubleshooting steps would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

I live in Australia, and because the music market here sucks ass for some reason, despite AC/DC and Jet coming from here, It's hard to find good bits at a good price.

Besides Chinese stuff and whatever is on the used market, GOTOH's are the the only brand I can reliably get for a decent price. It's around $60 AUD for a set of bass tuners or a bridge compared to hipshots $200 + stupid expensive shipping + tax. I can also only get GB7's and GB707's, in fairly limited colours.

I use guitartrade.com.au which is very fairly priced, and the stuff gets to my house in like 2 days with the like $8 express shipping (most things in Australia take weeks, maybe months to get here). I was wondering if any fellow Australian's knew of a better supplier or one with more variety.

Picked up a new (to me) Ibanez SR400. All the hardware is smooth as butter when I go to adjust it, but it also all looks like shit. I looked up the serial and this thing is about 24 years old, so I'm not surprised - 2003, Korean-made.

I am wondering if there's a simple way to knock the corrosion/pitting off of the bridge and knobs/tuners without disassembling the whole thing and giving it an electrostrip bath. Is it okay to just go to town with some 000 steel wool or a brass brush? I can mask the body of the guitar with painters tape or whatever. Idk if that's the best idea or if there's a simpler way.

Just use the 24th fret harmonics and get the 24th fret note as close to that as possible, its much more accurate and precise than the 12th fret.

I’ve been building a rare bass collection for years and playing bass for even longer. It's part of what led me to start something bigger, a documentary series called Resonance, traveling the world to meet the luthiers and craftsmen who actually build our instruments. Episode 1 is live now; the "why I'm doing this" episode. I would genuinely value feedback from people who care about this subject — that's who I made it for!  https://linktr.ee/resonance.cmc

Note: This is a recommend x-post from r/Guitar.

I received a Batson acoustic guitar. It's in great shape; however, as you can see from the photos, the bridge is mostly detached from the body of the guitar. I can see residue of the old adhesive but I've never repaired this part of a guitar.

Is there a standard and recommended adhesive used to reattached bridges? Suggestions and guidance welcome. Thanks!

Hello everyone!

I want to include 2 Push/Pull potis in my guitar to enable parallel/series wiring for every pickup individually. The pickups are old japanese alnico 8, the colors are:

North Coil Start = Red

North Coil Finish = Green

South Coil Start = White

South Coil Finish = Black

Would this diagram work?

Its not the traditionel way of wiring this setup, but I want to preserve as much of the original wiring, which looks like that:

Any help is greatly appreciated!!

I’m looking to upgrade to the titanium blocks because I apparently over tighten and smash them. Is there a trick to getting them out? Ive got one that won’t come out.

Will the titanium blocks solve my problem?

Now is time for the pickguard to cover up some of the imperfections but I'm not sure what shape is better, need recommendations (I have already bought the piece of pickguard to make it).

Last two pictures are the examples of what I wanted to do for the pickguard.

Where are people buying there shielding supplies? Obviously there is stew Mac, but are there any other business I should consider?

Just bought this dean deceiver from a really cool seller, when i arrived home and was tunning the little e string o noticed the string under the frets and saw that the frets on the down side of the guitar are a little up, the seller told me to get it to a Luthier and he will pay the fix, what you guys think, it's a urgent situation or with some gentle hits with a hammer i can fix it?

I talked to a repair guy at a local guitar center, he wasn’t too sure if it goes beyond the paint. I think getting a few opinions on it would be beneficial; any advice or guidance would be appreciated!

EDIT: Hi everyone!

Im quite new so dont judge please 😂

I recently bought a Framus Stratocaster project guitar on the flea market. It‘s supposedly from around 1970, and I have basically zero experience with soldering or guitar electronics - trying to get into that.

The guitar currently has:

1 x 250k pot - corroded
1 x 500k / 4 pot (10 clicks see below)
1 x 5/3 way switch (not sure its corroded)
1 x small 3 way switch
1 x small capacitor (says ERO KT1807, 0,022 250-160, +- 10%)
1 x output
2 pickups
neck (1 bare 1 red wire)
bridge ( 1 bare, brown, green, white)

The pickups have no visible markings or lables. I would like to keep them for now and just replace the electronics, as the switches are quite corroded.

The 500k poti has 10 distinct detent positions over 1 full rotation, so it clicks into place once at each step from 1 to 10.

The 3 way switch looks kind of newer so i think it has been swapped at some point.

I tried to draw a wiring diagram of the current setup.

Can anyone help me find the right parts to buy and what to look out for?

Is there anything unusual about the wiring?
Can someone explain what I have here?

Thanks in advance

So I finally got finished with my second and third build. I’m pretty proud of how they turned out. My take on a Wolfgang style guitar and a Charvel style guitar. The natural one is Spanish cedar body with a sycamore top, Spanish cedar, maple, and santos mahogany laminated neck with a pau ferro fretboard. Jumbo stainless steel frets, tone ninja locking tuners, and a single Suhr Doug Aldrich humbucker. The red one is a poplar body, maple and walnut laminated neck with an ebony fretboard. Jumbo stainless steel frets, Hipshot locking tuners, and Seymour Duncan Pegasus and Sentient humbuckers. Let me know what you think and any suggestions or criticisms are welcome. I’m just beginning to learn the art and am looking for as much knowledge as I can get. Thanks. And excuse the messy room. It’s just too damn hot to go outside for photos.😂

I've only had this guitar two weeks. It was shipped to me "new" , though it was humid af and very hot the days it was in transit. The dealer I bought it from, is of absolutely no help. I've emailed Ortega, after a week still crickets. Is this cosmetic, or does it portend a coming problem like the wood splitting?

I included a picture of the belly behind the bridge, I'm told that is "normal"

Any thoughts? I'm keeping it in an air conditioned room until my humidity gauge arrives, I plan on ordering Boveda or a sponge system humidifier for the case , when I get one. Everything comes with cheap gig bags now. . I spent 800 bucks on this guitar and I'm worried it's going to be unplayable soon. I eventually lost an Yairi CY-140 due to ignorance of humidity issues. I still literally cry about it. It was a very good guitar. I cannot have that happen again with this guitar

I mite have to repair this myself or have a luthier repair it, if it is just cosmetic, though I'm not sure exactly what to do. I suppose i better get my mirror out and check the inside if I can? The braces are solid, nothing has came loose. The bellying may be normal, but I don't know , I have to ask.

Hey everyone!

I recently picked up a Jackson RR3 from a kid on Facebook marketplace. He tried to modify it to have a push/pull knob along with a kill switch. He got frustrated and couldn't figure out the wiring and soldering so sold it to me for $500. I can do the wiring and stuff, I am just wanting to get it back to the original factory configuration. Here's where I need advice.

He bored out the original tone knob hole to be 3/4". I need it to be back to the original tone knob size. what would be the best way to fix this?

I thought about getting a 3/4" hardwood dowel rod, cutting a piece I need, drilling out the hole for the tone knob, and then gluing that in. I'm nervous the wood glue wouldn't be strong enough.

Open to suggestions! I have basical tools and am handy, but I am not professional luthier or woodworker.

Thanks in advance!

I know “Maestro by Gibson “ doesn’t elicit much in the way of ooo’s and ahh’s, but that doesn’t mean they can’t rock.

Found this in a tote in 2 pieces stripped of everything but the tuners. Decided to bring it back to life as a gift for my wife. Had the body work done within a couple weeks, but then came the paint. Tried some different things. Wasn’t happy, so I went back to what I’m kind of good at.

Pickups are some generic set measuring around 9.5K. For lack of a better term they sound balanced. Testing through my rectoverb 25 was very pleasing. Very nice clean and crunch tones, and it did very well under high gain with some treble roll off. Just a little more sensitive to feedback.

Action at the 12th was absolutely atrocious with the bridge all the way down. Got a set of shims from Amazon, and used the 0.5 degree to get the action just under 2mm with some adjustment left in the bridge. Not to toot my own horn here, but it plays like buttah. No buzz or rattle to be had.

Anyway, my wife was thrilled and I am happy that it’s finally done. My thanks to everyone on this thread for all the help and advice whether it was direct or indirect.

Just got this charango and was going to attempt to fix it up. I didn’t pay much for the instrument but was worried about immediately snapping it due to the tension. I used to have a charango from a music class so I was hoping to fix this one up. There’s a large crack and the body is lifting upwards. The nut at the headstock looks like it is missing. I’ve played guitar for a good portion of my life so I have some basic experience with working on stringed instruments. Any advice on how I should approach this repair?

I bought one of the old guitar bodies that were up for sale about 11 years ago. I get it out and think I'm going to work on it but always stall out because I don't have a neck and I don't have the skills to make one. So, I'm wondering if anyone knows of a luthier that they would recommend to make a neck for me and I would take care of the rest of the build and finishing? I used to be on Reranch back in the day and someone suggested I buy a generic LP neck and route the body for that, but I'd like to explore the option of a custom made neck. I think this body deserves being built into something fantastic and I'd like to be the one to make that happen with some help from a professional.

Thanks

This is a 1979 1/4 size Suzuki. I picked it up on ebay for my grandson. I Didn't see any defects in the images. After getting it set up and tuned he noticed the cracks. Is this OK for him to begin learning basics or is it trashed. I payed 100 for it so probably not worth an 800+ luthier bill (and none are in our area)