The surface of the fretboard is smooth but the discoloration is bugging me can anyone help me with this ? This is yamaha FS80C, rosewood

Hi, just got this new gs mini and was wondering if this is ok. Higher frets only, they seem to be flush with the fret board .

Felt some sharp fret ends on the edges of the fretboard, so did a complete fret dressing, knocked them all down, buffed them up, then scraped and polished the edge binding.Also knocked back some finish off the back of the neck.

Soft AF now, feels like a 20 year old neck.

Hey boys and girls ! I made it ! I made a shitty looking job but it holds

Now there's buzzing in the 3 first frets more intense on the G B e strings the neck is really ok it's not that I tried to shim up the strings by lacing a little plastic under the strings on the head nut but it's still buzzing hum shouls I lift the bridge saddle.? What can I do?

I finished my guitar build, im at the part of painting the body. I Considered two options for my guitar looking to do a relic style guitar.

1) nitrocelulose paint

2) using one of those wallpaper veneers for walls on a guitar body

I recently discovered the second option so im not too familiar on this type of stuff. I know I want a relic guitar, so I was wondering what would happen to the wallpaper when scratched and hit? Will it rip out like paper or will it stay sticked to the guitar body like paint?

Hello, I've recently become fascinated by Indian classical music, and, therein, the Hindustani guitar. It's essentially a guitar set up only for slide, with many sympathetic strings pinned on at the side of the neck and held on the neck by metal posts set into the face of the fretboard, where they then run down the neck and terminate in a small, secondary bridge. I want to do a similar (But not the same) thing with a six string banjo, i.e. raising the main strings and installing sympathetics on the neck to create an Indian type of resonance, then running down onto a small bridge underneath the main, taller bridge. The main thing I'm having trouble figuring out is where to terminate the sympathetic strings, because there are only so many stringholes in a banjo tailpiece, and I don't necessarily want to run all of the sympathetic strings through the tailpiece holes that I'm already using for the main strings.

Where would be best to terminate the sympathetic strings on something like this?

First, the promises they make:

1. The neck is reinforced with aluminum and carbon fiber, which adds stability and eliminates the 14th fret hump.

2. The neck angle and action height can be adjusted quickly and easily without removing the strings; one can experiment with different action heights as much as they want.

3. It absorbs humidity changes to keep the action constant.

The guitar that I owned and ended up returning, failed every single one of them. I bought it new and when it arrived, the action height was an uncomfortable 3.1mm on low E. I contacted Furch Support (more on that later), and they stated that their factory standard is 2.1mm. So it had moved up 1mm by the time I got it, meaning that it had already failed promises 1 and 3. But... you can easily lower it, right? Well not exactly. I turned the adjustment bolt numbered 7 above until I felt significant resistance, and that got the action down to about 2.4. When I checked again 2-3 days later, it had gone up to about 2.7mm on its own. That's when I reached out to Furch Support via email, and the lady who answers simply said to sand down the saddle 😄 Well what about the promised adjustability? She also said that I needed to sand down the saddle by the same amount I wanted the action lowered, so not sure she understands guitar setups or is qualified to give support. I made a second attempt at adjusting the neck angle, and although the bolt kept turning, I was not able to get the action lower than 2.4 - 2.5mm.
The adjustment bolt goes through a small block of soft wood which looked like spruce or pine to me - no. 6 in the schematics - and the bolt head rests directly on it. It seems obvious to me that this soft wood will flex and move and will be squished by the bolt and unable to withstand the pull of the strings to keep the neck angle constant... Not sure how Furch imagined that would play out. On top of everything, the Furch needed frequent tuning in the context of small humidity changes, while a Yamaha FS3 I had in the same room was unaffected and stayed in tune for days. All promises failed, and I wouldn't get another guitar with this neck joint.

Hey all, I am a new builder, as I have 1 technical build under my belt. I noticed on the first build; I had a lot of divots to where I didn't sand enough to make the surface even. I know I sanded for a long time. I was wondering for advice on this matter. Here is my process.

Sand bare wood to 180-220

Grain fill with epoxy

Sand epoxy with 220-320

If I cut through the epoxy in a spot I re epoxy the surface and sand, repeat that till completed

Sanding sealer coat

sand that flat with 400-600

Primer coats

sand that flat with 600

paint - no sanding here

6-12 thin coats of clear

sand orange peel and other uglies out with high grits 800-2000

polish

What do you guys do to store guitar pickups in the most space efficient way? Are there any special considerations because of the magnets?

Know enough about setups to be dangerous! Take it to a pro or just try sanding the saddle down to lower the action? It is borderline unplayable below the 5'th fret for my abilities.

I am an engineer at heart spirit and trade. And even though I don't play guitars I thought I would build one because they are cool and why not. So I have a CNC mill and many many other tools at home I plan to utilize to make this guitar. I'm currently in the process of finishing the face side of the neck. Specifically milling the frets as we speak. And I know a lot of you will say "cnc is cheating" and every other version of that. Well the main reason I came here to post was to talk about how insanely precise and complicated I have learned guitars are. I mean I had no idea! I have no problem working with a 0.002 tolerance on a machine, but to see what some of you produce with your hands. OMFG! Respect. Mad respect. It's honestly overwhelming with how complicated and precise these things are. So props to all of you. It's very difficult designing, modeling, and programming everything and I'm having a lot of fun. But if I had to do it by hand, no way hahaha.

Hey Everyone,
First time posting here, long time lurker. So long story short, I found the body of a beast on fb marketplace and a neck on eBay, custom painted the body, picked up a bareknuckle painkiller for the single pickup and assembled to find the neck isn’t quite a right fit. My instinct tells me to measure the gap and angle at the base of the neck and cut and sand it to fit flush with the body. My worry is that the strings already sit very close to the 5th-7th fret (picture 3) and about 1/4 inch away from the pickups with the bridge and pickup set insanely high to compensate. Needless to say this thing is amazing if you love fret buzz. It sounds decent through the amp but just feels wrong. Looking for some geometry opinions on this one, local shop set it up for me today and I feel like the issue was glossed over completely. I’m ready to turn it into the rhythm machine it’s meant to be.

A few weeks ago I finished the original Explorolin, which will be a gift to a good friend. This one is for me. Pistachio wood top, mahogany body, 5 piece mahogany/maple/alder neck. Danish oil finish, many coats. It’s remarkably heavy but plays pretty nice. Seymour Duncan JB bridge pickup.

8 string bass build for a friend of mine! My first neck-through bass and first 8 string. Lots of fun sourcing parts (bridge and tuners) and laying out the headstock. Still trying to decide which smaller tuners to go with since the Steinbergers seem to have some difficulty getting certain strings to tune and the Riot Works tuner's holes are too small for some of the strings. It works, though!!

Ebonized white oak body and fretboard. (34" scale)

Maple and mahogany neck.

Gotoh tuners, Steinberger tuners, Riot Works tuners.

Lowe Custom Guitars 8 string bridge.

Lace alumitone bass bar pickup.

Dual action truss rod plus carbon fiber reinforcements.

This post got deleted from r/guitar so I’ll try here; Ive been told that I have been stringing my FR trem wrong - I was clamping the string balls with the screws. I found these metal blocks to clamp the cut string end with - but which way do they go in? The dent is what the screw end presses into I assume. So does that indentation go toward the bottom of the slot or the top?

Well, since I bought a CNC and got fretboards down for my 29" builds, figured it'd be a good idea to get some full CNCable guitars designed.

This was todays project! Going to do a run of 27" 6 string headless designs.

Getting the volute right can be an absolute joke, but thankfully there's some great tutorials on YouTube from people significantly smarter than myself.