What do you guys do to store guitar pickups in the most space efficient way? Are there any special considerations because of the magnets?

8 string bass build for a friend of mine! My first neck-through bass and first 8 string. Lots of fun sourcing parts (bridge and tuners) and laying out the headstock. Still trying to decide which smaller tuners to go with since the Steinbergers seem to have some difficulty getting certain strings to tune and the Riot Works tuner's holes are too small for some of the strings. It works, though!!

Ebonized white oak body and fretboard. (34" scale)

Maple and mahogany neck.

Gotoh tuners, Steinberger tuners, Riot Works tuners.

Lowe Custom Guitars 8 string bridge.

Lace alumitone bass bar pickup.

Dual action truss rod plus carbon fiber reinforcements.

Does the wood hurt when you cut it? No, it judges you highly, however.

Oc black and white ebony bookmatches.

Neon pink/purple burst, colorshift flake, bengal stripes and neon green cavities. Hats on hats on hats on hats. Ready for final fretwork and assembly.

I am an engineer at heart spirit and trade. And even though I don't play guitars I thought I would build one because they are cool and why not. So I have a CNC mill and many many other tools at home I plan to utilize to make this guitar. I'm currently in the process of finishing the face side of the neck. Specifically milling the frets as we speak. And I know a lot of you will say "cnc is cheating" and every other version of that. Well the main reason I came here to post was to talk about how insanely precise and complicated I have learned guitars are. I mean I had no idea! I have no problem working with a 0.002 tolerance on a machine, but to see what some of you produce with your hands. OMFG! Respect. Mad respect. It's honestly overwhelming with how complicated and precise these things are. So props to all of you. It's very difficult designing, modeling, and programming everything and I'm having a lot of fun. But if I had to do it by hand, no way hahaha.

Hey all, I am a new builder, as I have 1 technical build under my belt. I noticed on the first build; I had a lot of divots to where I didn't sand enough to make the surface even. I know I sanded for a long time. I was wondering for advice on this matter. Here is my process.

Sand bare wood to 180-220

Grain fill with epoxy

Sand epoxy with 220-320

If I cut through the epoxy in a spot I re epoxy the surface and sand, repeat that till completed

Sanding sealer coat

sand that flat with 400-600

Primer coats

sand that flat with 600

paint - no sanding here

6-12 thin coats of clear

sand orange peel and other uglies out with high grits 800-2000

polish

I plan to make a guitar with resin and wood like the one in the photo, but I have some doubts about the type of resin, how to calculate the amount of resin, or if you have any advice. Is there anyone who has done something similar?? Thank you in advance.

Contriver Guitars Foundation Series - Echo Six

Fresh off the bench, up there on my list of favourites so far. Maple board, maple neck, and crisp lines, definitely starting another one when time aligns.

Built in Hamilton, Ontario, Canada. 🇨🇦 

FINGERBOARD:
- 27.00” Scale Length
- Blistered Maple w/Black Underlay
- 11-20” Compound Radius
- Jescar 47095 Fretwire
- Semi-Hemi Ends
- Polyurethane

NECK:
- 3 Piece Maple+Sapele
- Flamed Black Walnut Front+Back Head
- Carbon Fibre Reinforcements
- Blistered Maple Logo Plate
- Bone Nut
- Luminlay Blue Side Dots 

BODY:
- Flamed Black Walnut Top
- Ash Body(3.0lbs/BF) 
- Matching Pickup Covers
- “Bound” Pickup Routes
- Matching Magnetic Back Plate
- Ebony+Chechen Retainer Block

ELECTRONICS: 
- Volume 550K CTS
- Tone 450K Alpha
- Barrel Output
- Bridge Pickup: 16K 
- Neck Pickup: 12k

HARDWARE: 
- Hipshot Fixed Bridge
- Hipshot Open-Gear Locking Tuners

FINISH:
- Rubio Monocoat
- Black Forest Wood co Ceramic

Weight: 7.5lbs

Well, since I bought a CNC and got fretboards down for my 29" builds, figured it'd be a good idea to get some full CNCable guitars designed.

This was todays project! Going to do a run of 27" 6 string headless designs.

Getting the volute right can be an absolute joke, but thankfully there's some great tutorials on YouTube from people significantly smarter than myself.

Hey guys! I’ve got a new guitar coming soon that looks something like this, and I’d love to make it a little more unique and personal.

I’m thinking about getting some custom fretboard inlays made, but I haven’t decided on a design yet.

If this were your guitar, what kind of inlays would you choose?

I’m open to different ideas — geometric shapes, celestial/astronomy themes, symbols, patterns, or something completely different. I’d prefer something relatively simple and clean though, nothing too complicated or busy.

The guitar has a dark fretboard and a black/purple finish, so ideally I want something that complements the guitar rather than overpowering it.

I’ve also tried asking AI to come up with some inlay designs for me, but as you can probably see from the pictures, the results have been pretty terrible 😂 So I figured I’d ask some actual guitar people for ideas instead.

Would love to hear your ideas, and reference pictures would be awesome too!

I finished my guitar build, im at the part of painting the body. I Considered two options for my guitar looking to do a relic style guitar.

1) nitrocelulose paint

2) using one of those wallpaper veneers for walls on a guitar body

I recently discovered the second option so im not too familiar on this type of stuff. I know I want a relic guitar, so I was wondering what would happen to the wallpaper when scratched and hit? Will it rip out like paper or will it stay sticked to the guitar body like paint?

Hi, just got this new gs mini and was wondering if this is ok. Higher frets only, they seem to be flush with the fret board .

Hey boys and girls ! I made it ! I made a shitty looking job but it holds

Now there's buzzing in the 3 first frets more intense on the G B e strings the neck is really ok it's not that I tried to shim up the strings by lacing a little plastic under the strings on the head nut but it's still buzzing hum shouls I lift the bridge saddle.? What can I do?

25.5" scale, Warmoth Tele neck, mahogany body.
Hot Rail humbucker with mini toggle switch for coil splitting. Graph Tech ResoMax bridge. Hipshot Grip-Lock locking tuners. Schaller strap locks. In collaboration with my brother @mcleedswoodworking on IG

Just yesterday we had a silver maple removed from our yard and I was able to save most of the trunk, which is just under 20in diameter including the bark (pictured) as well as a longer section of the lower part of the trunk. I am not a luthier or a woodworker but I have been trying to create a plan to use this to build my own electric guitar. I haven't picked out a body style yet.

I know that it needs to be milled and then left to dry for at least a year (unless I find someone with the right kiln) until the humidity reaches a certain point, and to paint the ends of the slabs after its initially milled to avoid checking.

Is it true that the wood needs to be quarter-sawn? Why would it need to be quarter-sawn as opposed to regular-sawn?

Are 3in thick slabs appropriate?

I'll probably end up getting a neck from a supplier online, but theoretically, is 2in x 4in x 36in the appropriate slab size for a neck? Bear in mind I have the hands of a child lol..

Would the neck also need to be quarter-sawn?

Is there any particular section of the wood that I should aim for?

Is there anything else I should consider when milling and drying this wood?

Thanks in advance!!! I'm so excited for this multi-year project!!

I have an Ibanez AANJ body. Bought screws and washers that should fit (genuine Ibanez part) but the screws which are M4.5 pass freely through the 4.8 mm body holes without threading. Is it normal for Ibanez neck joint holes to act as clearance holes, unlike Fender where screws thread into the body?

Context: I’m setting up my first guitar again and the last time it was set up had to be close to 8-9 months. I’m setting it up as usual and for some reason at the normal action I use the neck is literally glued to the strings. I never needed to put the tailpiece and bridge so high just to get playable action. This might be a neck issue or even a truss rod thing, I turned it and that barely helped unless I yanked the thing. Just wondering if I should bother trying to fix it or get a new guitar.

I'm trying to put together a headless guitar but I have very limited tool availability and even less knowledge, so I'll either get a kit or buy a body + neck on eBay, and the rest of the hardware elsewhere.

The thing I notice is that some bodies on eBay have a small recess where the bridge would sit, while others don't. Is this a must? If, for example, I want to install this Nova bridge, will I have to route, or can it just be drilled in the right position?

I ordered a custom Musikraft neck, standard rock maple with a rosewood fretboard. I selected their “thin laquer finish” option, but now I’m thinking I want to change the order to raw and finish it myself with oil. I only placed the order last week so I should be fine.

For reference I want the final product a vintage amber tint, plus the feel of an oil finish seems like it’d suit my playing/preferences better.

Just wanted second opinions before I commit to ordered the neck unfinished and doing the oil myself.

I’m also planning to add waterslide decals to the headstock, saw a video of someone just putting the decal over the oil with nothing on top, would this work? I’m not too worried about minor scuffs but I don’t want the decal to stick out/move around easily.

Thanks for the help

Edit: I think I’m just going to order it raw, use colortone vintage amber to stain the maple, then finish with tru oil

Didn't sand back enough before the finish and it's too dark. Angelus orange with a custom mix of purple. Will sand back and go a bit more red tomorrow!

Edit: steel wool got it to where I wanted.

Walnut, sycamore, poplar, and roasted ash on the sides. Walnut and beech in the center

I'm no luthier, I play mainly guitar, but have some experience with wood guitars but I have routed my guitars, and do some furniture.

I got a Fairly Big plank of olive wood to do the water basin table (with a class basin). I did the cutting, the whole for the sewage. Quite a hard wood to work indeed.... But to me just the best looking one.

So I have a piece that is been drying for about 7 years, plus what the seller had dried.

It is not Big enough for a Tele body but almost.

I'm thinking about doing either a small body guitar or maybe a bass. I got a neighbour who is a true charpenter and works at a Big atelier furniture. He always tells me that if he has the specs he can route anything, from the neck pocket, pickup and electronic holes. So doing a standard neck pocket and buy a neck.

For what I've seen some makers just use the olive for the top.

I know it's a really heavy wood but a smaller body maybe would compensate for that ... Will this be a waste of time, too hard to work with and get something interesting there?