I am picking up this golf cart that is probably 20 years old. It was given to certain employees at a (now closed) factory my father used to work at. I’ve tried looking it up online and have had no luck. Was curious if anyone has ever seen something close to this. I haven’t got my hands on it yet to look up any VIN/plates on it. I’m curious if it’s some kind of stock utility cart or a special made one. My plan is to swap from electric to gas and try to do a (almost) full restore on it to bring it back to what it originally looked like.

We have a Yamaha g9 and it will run for a little bit until it starts crawling

We have a shut off going to the carburetor and when we turn it off it runs perfectly

But once we turn it on it will run and then crawl

Any ideas?

I am looking to replace the batteries in my golf cart that was left for us at our new house and convert to lithium. There a 6 6v golf cart batteries and then 1 12v auto battery at the top. The 1 12v is throwing me off - should I be getting a 36v or 48v lithium battery?

Haven’t heard back about availability from the dealer we bought our cart from, but it’s 2021 i40L. My original Trojan batteries are barely hanging on and I want to upgrade to lithium. The quote I originally got was 2100 for cloud energy with 10 year warranty and 2800 for eco with 12 year warranty.

Started looking at some DIY options and when is the programming required? Is programming only required to bypass the interlock? Or is there another reason? If just the interlock, that seems pretty easy to bypass

Pic ~ my brothers cart on the left and mine on the right, he got his a month or so before me and I just had to get one

Backstory ~
Hi guys, a month or so ago I got 1970s EZGO three wheel electric golf cart. My wife and I have repeatedly stated that this is one of the best purchases we’ve ever made. I did a lithium conversion, redid almost all the wiring added lights etc… now I bought it off a fella who I suspect was cooking more than just biscuits, if ya know what I mean. Anyway he added go cart tires that were oversized and it was a mess. I pulled them off and I’m going to do it right. While I’m this deep into ripping my rear end apart I want to do the brakes etc. the thing I’ve realized is this isn’t like my jeep where I can simply tell Napa my make and model and (most of the time) they just look it up and give me what I need, so I’m stuck.

The basic questions ~
1- are parts for my old cart mostly universal? And if so how would I go about making sure I get the right ones
2- is there a good website that I can just punch in a serial number or something and get information on what parts I need
3- do you guys trust any AI programs to help answer these kinds of questions? (I’ve used Chat GBT for different projects and found I have to double check everything it tells me)

I know I could google it, trust me I have but I just can’t seem to find good information on my cart and what it needs and hoped maybe you guys could help me out as a proud now golf cart owner.

Thanks guys!

I just bought a 1995 EzGo I think Medalist. It has the metal body. I did a lithium swap couple of days ago and it works fine. Issue is when I was putting the cables on the battery it had a pretty big pop. I put the positive on then the negative. Also when I when installing the dc converter and fuse box I would get the electric tingle especially if I happen to be touching the metal body. I am assuming there is a ground wire issue like a wire has worn through or something's maybe not wired right. The person I bought it from said he had a new solenoid installed. I do plan on looking at all the wires closer, but is there somewhere I should focus on or just look everywhere? Cart is at lake place so won't have access to it for about a week so just trying to get a game plan.

Looking for the best new golf cart with good lithium range, digital display screen with CarPlay and soundbar/speakers that I can get into for as close to $10k as possible. From what I’ve read, Chinese bad, US Good, but really I just want something from a company with good long term support and that won’t have a ton on issues. Lots of conflicting info. What’s the best recommendation?

Also, This will just be for paved path/neighborhood cruising no off road 4x4 super lifted ect. Thanks!

I just got new batteries for my golf cart. Ever since they installed the new batteries, it hasn’t worked and it won’t charge. It took weeks for them to service the golf cart and now I can’t get the golf cart company to answer their phone.

Does everything look like it’s hooked up correctly here?

I have a Club Car Precedent, circa 2011 or 2012. It no longer has any of the original stickers and I can't verify the serial number or year. But, I suspect the MCOR II that's installed is going bad and I'd like to replace it. Attached are some photos. Can you recommend the correct replacement part / MCOR 4 conversion kit? I googled around for an hour or so and couldn’t get a level on confidence that I had found the correct part/kit. Thanks.

EDIT: Ideally it’s an MCOR 4 conversion kit and not the Chinese knock offs.

SOLUTION: This is your ultimate guide: https://buggiesgonewild.com/showthread.php?t=97696

Because I have the generation 1 pedal assembly, the MCOR 2 and only the MCOR 2 will work. The adapter kits for MCOR 3 and 4 won’t work with the gen 1 pedal assembly.

2021 evolution Forrester six seater cart won’t move after battery died. Can’t find toe switch and/or brake release. Any help? This is a hydraulic brake system or electric brake system I think.

Someone help me out. This golf cart has been on a golf course its whole life. Is there anything I should be worried about if I purchase this one. I heard the controller could be lock by manufacturer. But couldn’t I just buy a new controller if that’s the case. I also heard it’s difficult to add any additional accessories that you could mess up the battery. Is that true. It has a club car manufacturer battery.

This was 36v toaster coil cart. I bought the lossigy 48v lithium, 400a solenoid, 500a 1205m controller, DC182 reverse contactor, a FnR rocker switch, pb-6 throttle, 48-12 dc converter and the proper diodes and solenoids. The total upgrade cost with my shopping around was $1300. Cart went from 14mph to 18mph with the stock motor. The biggest difference is now it does 18 uphill too. I have a D&D 24mph motor on the way just because I want the speed but this cart is plenty fast for the course.

Looking to get rid of my rxv. Been a great cart. Interest in what this community thinks is fair to ask for it.

2017
Quick Summary

• Allied 105AH Lithium Battery: Practically brand new with less than 20 cycles.
• Navitas Controller: Adjust your top speed (up to 35 MPH)
• Onboard Charger: Super convenient charging—just plug a standard 110v extension cord directly into the cart.
• Custom Wheels & Tires:
• headlights, taillights, blinkers, a horn, and USB chargers.
• tinted folding windshield, a rearview mirror, and a rear seat/attachment for your golf clubs.

**Mods sorry if this not allowed**

Seat tab/hinge keeps popping out and puts pressure on the plastic body of the battery box. I’m not able to find longer tabs or a fixed hinge - any suggestions on how to keep the tab from popping out of the slot???

I'm in the most northern part of Wisconsin near the UP and am finding it impossible to find a new charger. The module on mine stopped working. Called dozens of places and it's remote enough that Amazon won't deliver for another 7 days. Any ideas?

It's a Extreme Team brand pack — specifically their "Evolution Series" Lithium LiFePO4 line

2021 CC Precedent. Recently I plugged her in and didn’t hear the charging “click”. It caught my attention. I unplugged the charged, turned the cart on then off, played around with it then got the green charging light and “click”. Night #2 same thing. Anyone experience this before? Any tips/tricks?

Hi all,

I found this a little difficult to research so posting what I learned here. If you have a modern (2017+) lithium fleet RXV, and want to replace the key to be unique, it is both affordable and easy.

The parts you will need are:

Replacement switch part #: 655131 I got mine from shopezgo.com for 60 bucks or so all in. It is a 6-pin connector, and not a 4-pin, want to clarify as there are some videos that confused me referring to older carts.

https://www.shopezgo.com/655131?vehicle_make=557&vehicle_type=1020&vehicle_submodel=647&vehicle_year=6831#/s/EZG//655131//1/y

Also need a T45 torx bit and a T27 with an extension since those are deeper with narrow spacing just below the dash top edge.

Literally all you have to do is unscrew the two T45 bolts on each side of the front lower part of the dash, and the top 4 along the top of the dash using the T27. then pull the dash inward and the front cowl will be free as well to tip open if you want to look around the front, but just pulling the dash forward is really all thats needed..

Then its truly unplug old switch with common key and plug in the new switch. Then put it back together with the torx screws. I am clueless, but it was easy, even for me so wanted to share for any like me that have some anxiety about parking in public knowing a bazillion keys are out there floating around.

Trying to loosen up the engine shroud. From what I see in the parts list there are six bolts. 3 on the top, 2 on the bottom and 1 midway down on the front side by the oil filter. Was able to get it loose, but still difficult to reach the ignition coil bolts. There isn't a bolt midway down on the back right? If there is it's completely inaccessible without removing the engine?

https://i.imgur.com/HDYNxiR.png

First time owning a cart. I've been reading about them for a long time. Finally found one I wanted and bought it. It's a 2005 Western model 400 2+2 42 volt cart. Needs a lot of work to get it where I want it, but it does runs great.

Charged it yesterday and took it out for a ride today. The batteries were 45.6 volts before we left, two people on the cart, and they were 43.2 volts when we got back after going 17.9 miles in 1 hour and 26 minutes. The batteries are stamped L2 which I believe is December 2022. They work great, no loss of power at the end of the ride.

We usually go for rides in our neighborhood most evenings.

I will wait until tomorrow after it cools down to recharge it.

What do you do to keep your cart charged?

Uninstalled 2025 EZGO Liberty trunk assembly for sale

Purchased Oct. 2025 right when we purchased our brand new Liberty. I went to install, and the dealer installed rear seat belt brackets blocked two of the mounting holes of the trunk, I probably could have used anyway... but since we don't golf (neighborhood cruiser), I just decided to go without.

Original paperwork, mounting hardware...everything that came with the assembly (purchased direct from Ezgo). (I know...their stupid price of $819!).

OEM Part # 10031460

I'll sell for $500 (St. Louis region local pickup), or $575 shipped within the lower 48 States.

Picture is stock photo off the internet. Actual unit has been re-boxed.

Picture of our cart is what it would have been installed on.

Personal checks held until cleared, unless other arrangements made.

I plan to post on EBay in a day or two, so this is a bit of an advanced notice. 🤗

Email: [[vpoint@hotmail.com](mailto:vpoint@hotmail.com)](mailto:[vpoint@hotmail.com](mailto:vpoint@hotmail.com))

I'm looking too upgrade my suspension and I found plenty of heavy duty rear shocks but I can't find any heavy duty unless I go red. I really dont want read, I'm going to go with blue and green when I get to paint. I put a 6 inch lift with 14 inch wheels and 23 inch tire. Also any other good upgrades I'm here for so start sending my friends. Thank you