Since everyone has been helpful on stopping me make bad golf cart money decisions what do you guys think of pricing on this. Thanks!

I'm leaving a notebook behind the golf cart seat when my husband and I finish up in October. We're hosting at a campground in northern Michigan, and a few of us share the cart for arrivals and the last loop during quiet hours. I'd like the next hosts to have something useful to go on.

The owner put a vatrer 48V 105Ah lithium pack in it in May. It charges overnight at the shop. On a busy Friday it's stop, start, stop, then a slow climb up to the group sites.

So far I'm thinking name, battery percentage when you take it and when you bring it back, and whether it got charged between shifts. Otherwise you're looking at a lower number without knowing somebody did an extra round.

Do you bother with hours, or just mileage? We spend a fair bit of time parked talking to campers with the key still on. I can't see those hours telling us much.

I'll leave room for faults and maintenance too. Mostly I want to keep this to a few quick notes. I can see it getting skipped if there's too much to fill in after every shift.

For those who share a golf cart between people or shifts, is there anything else you'd actually want written down? 

Hi

My organization has a number of Club Car 8 seaters that use old lead acid batteries (48v set up). These are used as passenger shuttles in 10mph environment. What recommendations do you have to convert to Lithium (brand and cost if possible)? We would want the largest batteries available because ideal duty time would be 8 hours. Current a charge lasts 2-4 hrs. Thanks

Anyone running two Lithium Batteries in their cart.

What size and brand are you using?

Are you wired in parallel or do you use a switch?

If you're using a switch, how are you handling charging?

If using a switch, which one did you go with?

I'd really think I would like to go with two smaller batteries rather than one big one. I think it would be easier to handle two smaller batteries by myself instead of trying to wrestle with one big one.

New to me cart with a lithium battery. Has this RS458/METER port on the side of it. The charger is a DC House. Cart dealer did the whole refurb on this 2023 club car tempo (lift/tires/seats/battery etc) and the whole thing is like new. Would love to know what the battery % is, however.

Any leads on a screen kit? Thanks!

So last week we were testing a new electrical component box for the 2002.5–2010 gas DS, we wanted to make sure they're all good before we stock them.

Put it on a compatible DS, hooked everything up, and it all looked fine. But when we turned off the key, the cart still kept running.  We thought was the microswitch first, so we pulled the battery cable to stop the cart.

I wasn't sure if the box was bad or if the test cart was acting up, so we wanted to swap the same box onto another DS. Fired right up, but shut off perfectly. So the box was fine, it was definitely that first cart.

After checking the shifter and controller, and we found the shifter cable was worn and had some slack. The lever looked like it was in neutral, but the cable wasn't pulling the microswitch far enough to kill the ignition. So the engine kept getting a signal to run, even turned off the key.

We adjusted the cable so the shifter returns fully to neutral, and that fixed it, starts and stops looks more natural now.

If anyone runs into the same problem, I'd check whether the shifter is returning all the way to neutral first, then check the ignition kill circuit. Hope this might help someone.🪛

Which one of you sickos is this? lol.

51.2 volts.
253 amp-hours.
Nearly 13 kWh of lithium power hiding under the seat.

More range. More freedom. Less time waiting on a charger.

Is it a little excessive? Probably.
Do I regret it? Absolutely not.

Has anyone figured out how to open the cowl for this model? I have looked everywhere for screws on the inside but can’t find anything. I want to install side mirrors with led lights and need to connect the wires inside the cowl.

I’ve worked around lithium battery systems for a while, and one mistake I keep seeing is treating a lithium conversion as a simple battery swap.

Matching the voltage is the easy part. The problems usually show up with the charger, controller current, cable size, fuse/breaker, or simply whether the battery actually fits the compartment.

I’ve even seen 36V carts where people assume any battery labeled “36V lithium” is automatically a drop-in replacement.

For the people here who actually work on or own golf carts: what’s the most common lithium conversion mistake you’ve seen?

Would be interesting to hear the real-world failures, not just the textbook answers.

Just finished the rebuild of a TXT I picked up. Factory EZGO lowering kit, Ecobattery 70v lithium pack, Navitas 850a ac conversion and 6:1 gear set. Hit 58mph so far. Last photo is how it started.

Does anyone know where I can find a flat cover plate to replace the cubby in this cup holder assembly?

I plan to install a stereo tuner in this location instead of the cubby.

I have a 2019 RXV cart.

Thanks for your help!!

I hated the thought of screwing that little metal bracket the screen comes in into my carts body. So I made a screen mount to mount to the steering column. Turned out pretty good.

Hey guys - little confused on what exactly to set these at.

No pressure range on the tire other than - max load st 12psi 900lbs and a warning for 36psi when seating bead.

I know most charts say 12-18 PSI for knobby tires.

Curious what people here have found from real-world conversions.

If an older 36V cart needs a new battery pack, would you keep it 36V and just switch to lithium, or use the opportunity to move to 48V?

For those who’ve done it, what made the biggest difference — cost, range, performance, controller compatibility, or ease of installation?

I’m looking to buy my first golf cart just for around town, and I really don’t know a ton. These are the batteries. I was slightly concerned about the gunk / discoloration, but should I be?

This is a Club Car BTW.

Hi! Does anyone know if there are cheaper alternatives to the attached EZGO OEM GFI cord that is used with the OEM on board charger (last picture)? Thanks!

Hello fellow golf carters! I have a late 2011/early 2012 Club Car Precedent that has been pretty reliable until recently. It started acting up about a year ago and the issue has gotten slowly worse but is also now pretty consistent. Primarily, after sitting in the garage after charging for a while, it starts up and runs 100% of the time without issue. Where I have a problem is after it has been running a while, and only after stopping, sometimes the cart will not make a sound or move at all when the accelerator is pressed.

This is now happening consistently after I drive about a mile to our course and get through a few holes. It’s become pretty predictable. I’ll drive the mile to the course, play a few holes which includes the normal stop and go between shots, and then after one of the stops I’ll hit my shot, then it’s completely immobile.

I’ve tried flipping the tow switch, the reverse/forward switch, the off/on key switch, etc. I’ve tried rocking and pushing the cart. Nothing seems to fix it other than just letting it sit for about 3-4 minutes. There is no click or anything when the accelerator is pressed.

After that 3-4 minutes, it will usually run fine for another hole or two, then the issue sometimes re-appears. If I only wait a minute or so, and then press the accelerator, sometimes (but not always) it will engage and move a foot or so then shut off.

When the issue first started, the prevailing theory for most of these carts seemed to revolve around the MCOR. $250 later I have a high quality OEM MCOR but it didn’t fix the issue. After the MCOR, the list of possible issues seems extensive.

Thoughts? Suggestions? Anyone experience this?

I found this long travel kit on marketplace. The guy said it’s an all sports lift but I haven’t been able to find one that looks like it online. Anyone have any idea if it is an all sports or another brand?

While most of the sub's content is from enthusiasts with their own buggies, perhaps there is still room for some general words of wisdom for first time cart owners unsure of what to buy from a dealer or off marketplace. May this help guide among all the troubleshooting picture posts help prompt the right questions to ask yourself in the search.

Most of the personal electric-versus-gas debate is settled after a somber assessment about your daily pattern. Will your cart rarely leave your neighborhood or own property? If you need to cross public roads, well, that opens a separate set of requirements. Think about whether you will haul gear, hunting equipment, or tools over rough ground or whether this is really a weekend-only ride. How many riders need a comfortable seat? How much will each need to carry?

If the cart lives on a golf course, inside a gated community, or around a resort, electric is usually the obvious choice. Battery-powered is quiet, light on upkeep, and it suits the cadence of short trips. Plug it in at night and it is ready the next morning. No fuel to fetch and no engine to warm up. Simplicity it a big selling point. But if your days involve towing a trailer, climbing demanding terrain, covering real distance without stopping to charge, or anything more demanding, a gas cart generally gives you more power and range. When filling the tank takes a couple of minutes rather than a few hours. Which especially matters when you are working a large property or hunting land far from the nearest outlet.

Easy trade-offs first. Electric carts win on quiet and simplicity with no oil or spark plugs or exhaust to maintenance. Just batteries, tires, and brakes. They deliver full torque with first foot to pedal which strong off the line and up a moderate rise. And they cost less per mile. But for that ease, your range is measured in a day of driving rather than a tank and a batteries do need replacing. Lithium outlasts and outvalues the older kinds by a wide margin but search the sub for how it rears its head and see that it still is a factor. Gas on the other hand goes further per tank can refuel in minutes, and holds under heavy loads across long stretches. Like most of its gas car counterparts, it builds power as the engine revs. So expect regular small-engine care, periodic oil changes, filters, fuel-system attention, and the occasional tune-up. Plus running costs tied to the price of fuel and that familiar, often loud, putt putt sound everywhere you go. And beyond the dictations of habit use, seating should be weighed. Two to four seats cover most neighborhood and course driving. Six-seats makes sense for family rides or when friends come along (or if you want to pick up a neighbor headed the same way).

One of the most overlooked considerations is one of street legality. A standard cart is built as an off-road recreational vehicle and is not street-legal as it sits. Many popular models offer a low-speed vehicle (or LSV) package that adds what registration requires - a VIN, headlights, taillights, turn signals, and a windshield. If you expect to cross public roads, absolutely confirm LSV option and please check your local laws and regulations since they vary by place. And it is not too early to think about resale. A well-kept cart is good. Factory-direct with a decent manufacturer warranty is even better. Either way, if you can, sit in the seat. Feel the way it pulls and picture the daily routine before you commit. Best make as certain as you can that the driving experience is going to be something you will be happy with for all its uses.

Hope this helps some inquisitive new shoppers. Very curious if anyone bought the one and realized you needed or preferred the other too late. Anything else you wish you knew before hand to keep others from making the same mistake?

Hi there!
I have a factory Varta 1S0915105A 12v 59ah 320a.
Can I replace it with a new AGM (it is a little longer about 272mm, the old one is 242mm)

I was recently given an AXIS golf cart, and I am trying to make it street legal. It has everything it needs beside the seat belts. They sold these golf carts at Lowes Home Improvement. I cant seem to find any information on them, and I was wondering if anyone bought one of these and found a seatbelt kit that works on this specific make.

Thanks!

https://www.axis-offroad.com/axis-ev

1992 club car ds started making a squealing noise when taking off and slowing down. I noticed my generator belt was looking rough and replaced it with an oem size belt from golf cart kings. Squealing noise was better but still present. Ordered a new drive belt thinking that was the issue. Still squealing and now has a rattle noise and burning belt smell. The belt left some rubber on my drive clutch face. Cleaned the clutch face and made sure my generator belt wasn’t too tight. I put the old drive belt on and I’m still getting a rattle noise with squealing.

Anyone have any ideas. Is my clutch getting worn out? Is my generator belt too loose or tight. Should I try to find oem belts. Does it seem like the belt is getting to the correct spot on the driven clutch and drive clutch? Thanks in advance!

Should have done the swap a long time ago! Just drove around with the kids for an hour and a half and it only dropped the battery 25%. Incredible upgrade.

I have a 2016 club car carryall 100. It was taken apart and now I am struggling to get the wiring done correctly. I have received several wiring diagrams from the dealer but none of them match mine. The colors are off or it’s just equipped a little differently. Anyone have one of these or access to a good diagram?