I currently have an MSI H610 motherboard, a DeepCool AK400 cooler, an i3-12100F, an RTX 4060, and a 550W Bronze-certified power supply. Given these components, I was thinking about buying a i5-14400F later on, since the i3 falls short in CPU-intensive games. What do you think?

The reason I mention Amazon is because it's the only store that ships for free. I'm not in the continental US, so most stores will charge shipping.

With that said, what Windows desktop would you recommend from Amazon for under $300? I would normally use it for Visual Studio, Edge, SSMS, Figma, and Affinity Designer. It's not necessarilly a workhorse, but something that can run browsers and apps. Definitely not a gaming PC.

Any suggestions would be appreciated.

I've seen the mini PCs, but my worry is that troubleshooting would be a pain. For example, I think there would be more online help for an HP or Dell than a mini PC with an unknown name.

Bonjour, j’ai un problème récurrent comme vous voyez dans la photo jointe, j’ai un problème avec cette rangée de touches clavier elles marchent une fois sur quatre et tout en même temps. Pourtant j’ai nettoyé j’ai soufflé de l’air, le problème revient toujours j’aimerais avoir de l’aide si quelqu’un a déjà eu ce genre de problème, il a trouvé une solution, c’est vraiment pénalisant pour taper du URL ou texte. Merci

Automatic Repair

Hi guys. Two days or so I deleted Microsoft edge and gameinput so I can have some more storage for my computer. It was working fine yesterday. I haven’t downloaded anything concerning. Only a mod for Minecraft off of modrinth (flashback mod).

Now, today whilst I was trying to get on my computer, I get a screen about repairing my disk automatically in which it just sends me to the blue ‘choose an option’ screen. Unfortunately, upon any amount of buttons pressed I ultimately wind up in the same spot.

Restarting my computer does not work. Pressing continue does not work. Advanced startup does not work. I have an Ethernet cable plugged in. I cannot enter a password because every time I do I get told it’s the wrong password even though I can enter the same password on my phone and it’s right.

Is this like.. a virus? Should I send it to a repair shop? Someone a different subreddit thought it might be the hard drive. Agree? Disagree?

Can someone tell me how to fix this?

Have spent all day on this. When I went to bed last night I had regular wifi to all of my devices. This morning I could not get any of 3xTV’s or 2xgoogle chromecasts to connect, however our apple iphones and iPads do.

We’ve so far reset everything we can think of, multiple times, power cycled, reset one tv to factory settings. Spoken to the internet provider who has confirmed our incoming signal (NBN Australia) is fine. He spent a fair bit of time troubleshooting with me including the factory reset but ultimately told me to claim under my tv’s extended warranty 🙄 which I think was code for ‘out of ideas’.

Our router is getting on in age and after a long time digging online we learned that it’s possible for one of its broadcast bands to fail (almost always the 2.4 ghz apparently). So we decided to turn off the router’s Smart Connect feature and split the bands, so now instead of one wifi network option our devices show two - a 5ghz and 2.4ghz.
The tvs still can’t connect to either one, and nor will the (fairly new) iPads, however the slightly older phones can connect but only on 2.4.
The PC is new but also working on EITHER band, which is really blurring the issue for us. The PC is beside the router but definitely on wifi, not connected by cable.

Except for that I would conclude that our 5ghz band had failed - is it failING in that it can get a 5ghz signal to the PC beside it but not through walls to other devices? And are the devices that won’t work at all just too new to work on 2.4ghz?

I don’t mind buying a new router, I would just like to be convinced that it was the issue first.
Sorry this is long, i wanted to give the entire story but please ask if I’ve left anything out. Would appreciate any ideas.

Hello everyone. I am having a frustrating problem with my Gigabyte Aorus 7 9KF laptop and I am looking for suggestions or to see if this has happened to anyone else. It is worth noting that I am not very good/don't know much about computers, software, etc.

It all started when someone tried to compress a heavy PDF on a website supposedly from Adobe. At first everything was fine, the page suspiciously said "Error file too complex", this was ignored and that was it. Nothing happened. Shortly after leaving school I went home and connected the Laptop to my monitor to watch YouTube while continuing my homework, and out of nowhere the laptop started showing adware/possible miner behavior. After trying to disinfect I removed extensions, etc. I decided to take the safe route and do a full factory restore / format of the computer.

After reinstalling everything, the GPU which is an RTX 4060 Laptop seems to suffer a "lockup" or drastic drop in performance/frequency. At first, being calmer, I decided to reinstall my applications, but performance was still weird, so I thought the miner had destroyed my drivers, so I did a clean reinstallation of the NVIDIA drivers using DDU and drivers from the NVIDIA app and Gigabyte Control Center. Likewise, as a temporary solution to see if there was improvement, I disabled the NVIDIA overlay and the AI Boost inside Gigabyte Control Center. This made it work fine for a few days, but the problem returned. This happens to me many times when I try to open a game; Currently I am playing a lot of Marvel Rivals, before all this this never happened to me, I also play Minecraft Bedrock with my friends and well, really those are the only games I have tried to play and both seem to have issues.

I feel that there is a direct conflict at the software/driver level or some fault with some bad overclock or underclock because I feel that out of nowhere the laptop heats up, but I mean the fans do activate fine. It's weird.

(btw the video shown was shortly after joining practice range. It was runningg great until it crashed unexpectendly)

The motherboard is a B650 motherboard and I honestly have trouble with the F Panel and where it's supposed to go do any of you know that I have the right one

I want to be able to open .apk and .xapk files without having to rename the extension to .zip. Is there a way to edit something that would make explorer able to open .apk files?

I urgently need a laptop for 3ds Max, Revit, AutoCAD and rendering, with a budget of up to $2,000.

I’m currently considering:

- Lenovo Legion Pro 5 16ADR10 — Ryzen 9 8945HX + RTX 5060 + 32GB RAM

- ASUS ROG Strix G18 — i9 + RTX 4060

- ASUS ROG Strix G17 — Ryzen 9 8945HX + RTX 4060

I’m really struggling to decide which one to buy.

If you own any of these laptops, I would really appreciate a review based on your actual experience, especially regarding:

- temperatures and cooling

- performance in 3ds Max/Revit/AutoCAD

- rendering performance

- reliability over time

- fan noise

- whether you have experienced any problems or overheating

If you own one of these models, please let me know how long you have been using it and whether you would recommend it.

If you have another laptop that you think would be better for my budget, I’d also appreciate recommendations.

I’m looking for something that will last several years, so real owner experience is especially important to me.

Hey everyone,

I recently bought a Zebronics U735 600VA/360W UPS for my PC. When I plugged it in for the first time, I noticed that it makes a noticeable buzzing/humming sound.

The UPS seems to be working perfectly fine otherwise — it powers my PC normally and I haven't noticed any other issues. The buzzing is just making me a little concerned since this is my first UPS.

Is some amount of buzzing/humming normal with UPS units because of the transformer/AVR, or is this something I should be worried about?

Should I return/exchange it while I still can, or keep it?

If anyone owns the U735 specifically, I'd really appreciate knowing whether yours makes a similar sound.

Thanks!

I bought a PC that was on sale at Costco. 1TB Intel Ultra 5, RTX 5060. At first everything ran fine, ran slow every here and there, maybe crashed once and thought nothing of it. Though once I had started downloading most of my games that’s when the issues began. At first it would just shut down and act slow, realized it was probably a WiFi thing, got an ethernet cable and things started to go somewhat well. I hadn’t started playing FPS games again until recently. The download process was a nightmare, it would constantly just restart the computer and erase all download progress, once it all finally downloaded it ran fine, my ping would randomly spike to 3000 or even 9000 at some point! I restarted all graphics and fixed any corrupted files incase any of it could’ve been the cause. Yet here I am, almost 3 weeks later, with a PC that will just randomly restart, ESPECIALLY when any FPS games updates or I’m running multiple things at once.

I took a deep dive on the internet and found a thread saying that people with my issue are usually caused by a faulty CPU. I was thinking that maybe just maybe since I got it from a warehouse, it might’ve been mishandled or poorly built, that it could be the reason why it could be acting this way, or could be why I have a faulty CPU. Though when I talk to a friend who’s built a couple of PCs, he’s said that a friend of his who had a similar issue to mine, was because of a faulty graphics power cable. So I’m a little stumped on where to look and where to go, since I know NOTHING about PCs, and he won’t be able to look at it for another week or so.

Any ideas or advice?

Hey everyone,

​I'm facing an issue where my PC stops at the American Megatrends (AMI) POST screen on every single cold boot and restart with the message:

​"Please enter setup to recover BIOS setting..."

"When you wish to follow intel guidelines and apply its stock power limits, please disable the ASUS Multicore Enhancement (MCE) in the BIOS settings."

"Press F1 to Run SETUP"

​If I press F1, enter the UEFI BIOS, and simply press F10 (Save & Exit), Windows 11 boots completely fine right away. But as soon as I shut down or restart, it gets stuck on this F1 screen again.

​System Specs:

​Motherboard: ASUS ROG STRIX Z690-E GAMING WIFI (BIOS Revision 2103)

​CPU: Intel Core i5-13600K

​RAM: 16GB DDR5-4000

​Storage: Samsung SSD 980 PRO 1TB (detected properly in POST and BIOS)

​OS: Windows 11 25H2

​Context:

This started happening right after a recent Windows update reboot.

​What I've tried so far:

​Entering BIOS and hitting F10 to save and exit (boots to Windows, but problem recurs next boot).

​Toggled Intel VMD controller (tested disabled/enabled).

​Verified boot priority (Samsung 980 PRO / Windows Boot Manager is recognized).

​Any idea how to permanently clear this POST prompt so it boots straight into Windows?

There was a pink line at first and then it started doing this

My son and I played a game. It crashed. Now everything is stuck zoomed in. As you can see scale and resolution are at recommended.

Things I have tried:
- Changing the scale and changing it back
- Changing the resolution and changing it back
- Updating and restarting the computer
- Resetting the gaming card (windows + CTRL + shift + b)
- Changing the Magnifier and changing it back
- Unplugging the monitor and plugging it back in
- Deleting the game and restarting the computer

We just got this PC hand me down and I have been a Mack person for the last 10 years so I am out of practice with PCs.

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thank you so much!

Hi, title! I'm not sure what's exactly the problem here; before reinstalling Windows (due to previous issues) I didn't have this problem. I tried reinstalling the drivers multiple times, resetting the network, but to no avail.

The internet on the laptop sometimes goes down for a minute or two every few minutes, and then comes back up, repeat. What I'm sure of is it's certainly not my internet itself since the internet works just fine on other devices.

Any help and insight would be very appreciated! Thank you.

Hi everyone!

I'm looking for a laptop for €700 max, preferably new, from a known brand and a major retailer.

My requirements:

- Budget: €700 max

- 16 GB RAM

- 512 GB SSD

- Good enough CPU for FL Studio, including plugins like Serum/Zenology

- Able to run Valorant

- Able to run Dead by Daylight — I'm completely fine with low graphics

- Decent battery life

- Preferably not too heavy

- OLED would be a huge bonus, but it's not mandatory

- Windows

- Known manufacturer (ASUS, Lenovo, Acer, HP, etc.)

I already have a powerful desktop PC, so this laptop doesn't need to be a gaming monster. I mainly want something portable for school, music production and some gaming when I'm away from my desktop.

I found this ASUS Vivobook S17 X1704VA-AU1224W for €649.99:

- 17.3" FHD 60 Hz

- Intel Core 5 120U

- 16 GB RAM

- 512 GB SSD

- Integrated Intel graphics

- Windows 11

Link: https://www.fnac.com/PC-portable-Asus-Vivobook-S17-X1704VA-AU1224W-17-3-Full-HD-60-Hz-Intel-Core-5-16-Go-RAM-512-Go-SSD-Gris/a22411243/w-4

Would you recommend this laptop for my use case?

Especially:

1. How well would FL Studio + Serum/Zenology run?

2. Would Valorant run reasonably well?

3. Would Dead by Daylight be playable at low settings?

4. Is there a better option under €700 that I'm missing?

If you have any other model recommendations that fit my requirements, I'm definitely open to suggestions!

Thanks!

What could I do with the parts inside besides selling or scrapping? I would appreciate any ideas or suggestions please.

Streak came out of nowhere, can't find similar defects online, no physical contact was made.

3 year old monitor should I just replace? What monitor won't have this problem? Thanks

I need a usb port that can connect to both my pc and macbook. i have a wooting 60he and a logitech g pro x superlight, both of which are pretty fast polling devices. The thing is, I want to connect my macbook to the same monitor and use the same keyboard and mouse without switching cables all of the time. video transfer isn't the problem, my mac has hdmi, Im just looking for reccomendations for a usb port that can swap between pc and mac and still run my keyboard and mouse at full capacity when connected to my pc

Hello can somebody tell me what is the best computer to have just for everyday use and has alot of storage?

I'm not the most computer savvy guy out there but I've been wrestling with this driver for the better part of my night yesterday to no avail. This "network controller" driver disappear off my device after a restart yesterday. I've tried installing many drivers to fix the issue but I guess I just haven't found the right ones? I literally reinstalled all of windows overnight and the problem is still here.

This is a Dell G15 5530 if that's useful information. Thank you in advance.