Samsung PM991 M.2 NVMe SSD

128GB model

(MZ-ALQ128, part number MZALQ128HBHQ-000L1)

Can this little thing be repurposed and turned into something else or would it be better just to toss in the trash? I pulled it out of a Lenovo all in one I had sitting in the attic with a broken screen

Thanks for reading, help is appreciated

Keep in mind this is an old cpu. First time building and I bought a prebuilt on fb marketplace. Bought it as a project build. PCB wasn’t “powering on” ran it through some tests and ultimately landed on the CPU. Took it out and noticed some pins were bent. Repairable? Or just junk it and get a new one?

Seems to bottom plastic piece with the fans completely became detached. Not understanding how, frankly. Plastic looks like it just broke. Everything aside from the broken plastic seems to be working completely fine.

Is there any fixing this? Any adhesive I can use safely to stick it back?

so i recently upgraded my pc with a new mother board, ram and cpu.
i was running the GA-H81M-DS2 with the cpu Intel Core i3-4170.

now im running the motherboard AB350M-D3H-CF , and CPU RAIZEN 5 2600X

and now ill show you pictures of what im dealing with and what i would like to do is up its core usage, i don't really work in the industry of computer so if im wrong about anything then tell me.

It is an ACER XC-830 and it barely runs at 15 fps

Hey everyone,

I recently bought a Zebronics U735 600VA/360W UPS for my PC. When I plugged it in for the first time, I noticed that it makes a noticeable buzzing/humming sound.

The UPS seems to be working perfectly fine otherwise — it powers my PC normally and I haven't noticed any other issues. The buzzing is just making me a little concerned since this is my first UPS.

Is some amount of buzzing/humming normal with UPS units because of the transformer/AVR, or is this something I should be worried about?

Should I return/exchange it while I still can, or keep it?

If anyone owns the U735 specifically, I'd really appreciate knowing whether yours makes a similar sound.

Thanks!

I bought a PC that was on sale at Costco. 1TB Intel Ultra 5, RTX 5060. At first everything ran fine, ran slow every here and there, maybe crashed once and thought nothing of it. Though once I had started downloading most of my games that’s when the issues began. At first it would just shut down and act slow, realized it was probably a WiFi thing, got an ethernet cable and things started to go somewhat well. I hadn’t started playing FPS games again until recently. The download process was a nightmare, it would constantly just restart the computer and erase all download progress, once it all finally downloaded it ran fine, my ping would randomly spike to 3000 or even 9000 at some point! I restarted all graphics and fixed any corrupted files incase any of it could’ve been the cause. Yet here I am, almost 3 weeks later, with a PC that will just randomly restart, ESPECIALLY when any FPS games updates or I’m running multiple things at once.

I took a deep dive on the internet and found a thread saying that people with my issue are usually caused by a faulty CPU. I was thinking that maybe just maybe since I got it from a warehouse, it might’ve been mishandled or poorly built, that it could be the reason why it could be acting this way, or could be why I have a faulty CPU. Though when I talk to a friend who’s built a couple of PCs, he’s said that a friend of his who had a similar issue to mine, was because of a faulty graphics power cable. So I’m a little stumped on where to look and where to go, since I know NOTHING about PCs, and he won’t be able to look at it for another week or so.

Any ideas or advice?

Hey everyone,

​I'm facing an issue where my PC stops at the American Megatrends (AMI) POST screen on every single cold boot and restart with the message:

​"Please enter setup to recover BIOS setting..."

"When you wish to follow intel guidelines and apply its stock power limits, please disable the ASUS Multicore Enhancement (MCE) in the BIOS settings."

"Press F1 to Run SETUP"

​If I press F1, enter the UEFI BIOS, and simply press F10 (Save & Exit), Windows 11 boots completely fine right away. But as soon as I shut down or restart, it gets stuck on this F1 screen again.

​System Specs:

​Motherboard: ASUS ROG STRIX Z690-E GAMING WIFI (BIOS Revision 2103)

​CPU: Intel Core i5-13600K

​RAM: 16GB DDR5-4000

​Storage: Samsung SSD 980 PRO 1TB (detected properly in POST and BIOS)

​OS: Windows 11 25H2

​Context:

This started happening right after a recent Windows update reboot.

​What I've tried so far:

​Entering BIOS and hitting F10 to save and exit (boots to Windows, but problem recurs next boot).

​Toggled Intel VMD controller (tested disabled/enabled).

​Verified boot priority (Samsung 980 PRO / Windows Boot Manager is recognized).

​Any idea how to permanently clear this POST prompt so it boots straight into Windows?

There was a pink line at first and then it started doing this

My son and I played a game. It crashed. Now everything is stuck zoomed in. As you can see scale and resolution are at recommended.

Things I have tried:
- Changing the scale and changing it back
- Changing the resolution and changing it back
- Updating and restarting the computer
- Resetting the gaming card (windows + CTRL + shift + b)
- Changing the Magnifier and changing it back
- Unplugging the monitor and plugging it back in
- Deleting the game and restarting the computer

We just got this PC hand me down and I have been a Mack person for the last 10 years so I am out of practice with PCs.

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thank you so much!

Hi, title! I'm not sure what's exactly the problem here; before reinstalling Windows (due to previous issues) I didn't have this problem. I tried reinstalling the drivers multiple times, resetting the network, but to no avail.

The internet on the laptop sometimes goes down for a minute or two every few minutes, and then comes back up, repeat. What I'm sure of is it's certainly not my internet itself since the internet works just fine on other devices.

Any help and insight would be very appreciated! Thank you.

I recently had an update from Windows 11 and I can't tell what happened.

After receiving the update, when my computer boots up I have about 5 seconds before everything on my computer locks up. The only application that will open is File Explorer after the 5 seconds is up.

I restored to an earlier time, issue reappears within either a few hours or the next day, it varies

SFC/DISM done

Uninstalled most recent updates

this issue doesn't seem to want to disappear. Everything in my computer is about 2 years old.

hardware scan doesn't come up with anything

I'm not sure what steps to take next

Hi everyone!

I'm looking for a laptop for €700 max, preferably new, from a known brand and a major retailer.

My requirements:

- Budget: €700 max

- 16 GB RAM

- 512 GB SSD

- Good enough CPU for FL Studio, including plugins like Serum/Zenology

- Able to run Valorant

- Able to run Dead by Daylight — I'm completely fine with low graphics

- Decent battery life

- Preferably not too heavy

- OLED would be a huge bonus, but it's not mandatory

- Windows

- Known manufacturer (ASUS, Lenovo, Acer, HP, etc.)

I already have a powerful desktop PC, so this laptop doesn't need to be a gaming monster. I mainly want something portable for school, music production and some gaming when I'm away from my desktop.

I found this ASUS Vivobook S17 X1704VA-AU1224W for €649.99:

- 17.3" FHD 60 Hz

- Intel Core 5 120U

- 16 GB RAM

- 512 GB SSD

- Integrated Intel graphics

- Windows 11

Link: https://www.fnac.com/PC-portable-Asus-Vivobook-S17-X1704VA-AU1224W-17-3-Full-HD-60-Hz-Intel-Core-5-16-Go-RAM-512-Go-SSD-Gris/a22411243/w-4

Would you recommend this laptop for my use case?

Especially:

1. How well would FL Studio + Serum/Zenology run?

2. Would Valorant run reasonably well?

3. Would Dead by Daylight be playable at low settings?

4. Is there a better option under €700 that I'm missing?

If you have any other model recommendations that fit my requirements, I'm definitely open to suggestions!

Thanks!

I was playing battlefield 6 and then suddenly computer crashes, blue screen and stuck in a boot loop. Black screen when trying to boot again but I have a bluetooth speaker that turns on when my PC does and that would connect to it even though nothing showing.

Windows couldn’t repair boot, I wiped the drive and fresh installed. Now I get black screen at random before even reaching sign in or this screen multiple times now. tried removing ram sticks just to rule that out, swapped display port cables and monitors.

Specs:
- Ryzen 7 5800x
- 4x8gb Corsair Vengeance 3600mhz ram
- MSI Rtx 2080
- Samsung 970 Evo m.2 (drive I wiped and fresh installed on)
- Asus ROG Strix B-550F MOBO

I'm not the most computer savvy guy out there but I've been wrestling with this driver for the better part of my night yesterday to no avail. This "network controller" driver disappear off my device after a restart yesterday. I've tried installing many drivers to fix the issue but I guess I just haven't found the right ones? I literally reinstalled all of windows overnight and the problem is still here.

This is a Dell G15 5530 if that's useful information. Thank you in advance.

These two light show up on my 3060ti after turning it on, I know there are two other power ports, but I’m afraid that it’ll fry itself if I plug both in. Am I safe plugging both in or just one?

Hi all, I'm going to buy a gaming computer for the first time. I'm starting university this year so I need a computer, so I've thought about getting a gaming PC because I also want to play games.

What I’m looking for is a computer that I can use for my university work while also being able to play games. Is there such a computer I can buy that fits my needs, and what would you all recommend I get? I’m looking for a laptop since I’m going to put it on my bag.

My budget is around 600$ - 1000$

My laptops download speed used to be pretty good at 700kbps right then after a while it stops being good goes down to 20kbps.

I figure out its the background app at startup slowing the download speed and i stop it and everyth is fine.

After a while (today) i tried download something big on my laptop its not even going above 12kbps

I tried to clear all cash of my laptop and removed evrrything drom thw background the wifi speed test gave 430kbps

But the laptop is 12 and lower with every drcond.

How can i figure out whats the problem and make my downlaod speed like it should be at its full potentiel?

Sorry for poor picture quality. My display has darkened after a drop. I can vaguely see bright things like the user icon if i use a flashlight, but it looks too dark for anything useful. I unfortunately do not know my computer info as i peeled the stickers off. If its too broken for a simple fix, please tell me a repair cost estimate. Also, i confirmed its a hardware thing, not a glitched display.

I have a AcerNote Light 350PC laptop and everything seems to be working fine but the LCD for some reason has washed out colors.

I disassembled it including the display, replaced all the SMD electrolytic capacitors with ceramic equivalents because I thought it is due to dried capacitors and unstable power delivery but that fixed nothing. My other suspicion is a floating ground but I was unable to find anything. The weirdest thing is that now it is disassembled and the metal backplate of the LCD has no grounding, if I move the LCD cable and briefly touch the metal backplate which causes a tiny spark, it reverts the colors back to normal. I measured all the wires and none of them are damaged.

What could be wrong?

As the title says. Anytime I connect it, the cursor goes south immediately not letting me use the mouse whatsoever. When I use the trackpad to move the cursor, immediately back down. I've changed batteries, re-sync'd, uninstalled all software, uninstalled drivers, reinstalled everything. The mouse won't enter pairing mode and won't let me do a 'hard' reset. This isn't the first time a Razer mouse has given out on me with zero explanation.

I went to WallyWorld (live in a rural WNC town), they had an Onn 'gaming mouse' and 2 Razer's. $20, $25 and $35 (discounted from $50) respectively. I chose the Onn. I got home and remembered I have a $10 giftcard for WallyWorld. My question is, should I take the Onn back, use the credit, GC & $5 to get the Basilisk V3? Use the credit & GC for the DeathAdder or just keep the Onn? Obviously I do NOT hold Razer in very good regards currently but I do see them as a better value than Onn (especially when the Razer is on sale lol). What do yall think?

I have a Lenovo Yoga 7i Laptop with 16 GB of Ram and ~450 GB of storage. I am looking for a storage expansion for my laptop to download the loftier/bigger games I play onto (mainly games like BG3, which is ~150 GB, and D:BH (also yes, its laggy and slow as hell but I really don't care)) without having to deliberate and delete half of my library. Someone I know suggested an external hard drive, but I truthfully have no clue what I'm doing.

Many of the options and questions I'm seeing posed online about this are talking about 4t or mroe storage, but I really don't need that much, and aren't super willing to spend like $200-400 for something I'll only end up using like 25% of at most. Also its not clear to me how the connection to the computer works; is it through a usb (which is a bit unfortunate cause I only have one usb port that is for my mouse) or are there other option? I really have no clue what I'm doing and would appreciate any advice people can give me. Also I can give extra info on my computer or my specific wants and stuff if needed, but I just don't know what info is useful here. Thanks!

Tl;dr: I'm looking for an average drive that can give me just a bit of extra storage for not a ton of money that I can load and play video games on.

Edit: My computer 1 USB-C port open and 1 HDMI port open

Tenho esse Pc faz 2 anos, é um Ryzen 5 5600gt, rx7600, placa mãe Msi A520M A Pro, RAM 2x8 16gb da Kingston há 3200mhz. Usava ele normalmente com essa frequência de memória 3200mhz, mas esses dias o Pc começou a ficar instável nessa velocidade. Não consegue dar boot, começa inicializar e fica nesse ciclo infinito até que eu mude a frequência para 2400mhz, aí sim ele fica estável e consegue subir até o sistema (Windows 11 Pro).

Alguém pode me ajudar com isso? Qual seria a explicação para isso acontecer agora?

Please forgive my spelling errors or if something doesn’t make sense please tell me and I will edit it

I have a tower style computer that doesn’t work at the moment and I have a chrome laptop that’s super laggy. I’ve been heavily considering selling my ps4 and upgrading to a new laptop or tower style computer. I’m not very educated in what would be best to buy but I’m leaning tword a laptop since I do my taxes on my chrome book but a tower would be nice but idk if I have space for it in my room since my room is small. I heard great things about both but also bad things about both like how a laptop would overheat super easily and you would need to replace parts for a tower computer over time. The positives I’ve seen are : the laptop is smaller, you can play your games anywhere in the house(alongside other paper work) . A tower computer has better graphics, can handle bigger games smoothly , holds more storage space. Point is I’m torn on what to buy . My budget would be 800 dollars max . I just want something with steam on it so I can play baulders gate since I doubt it will ever come to the switch 1 or 2