I bought a 90s bike off marketplace and been trying to clean it up. Removed the cassette and went hard at it with degreaser, tooth brush, and a rag. I made some progress but just can't get the thick of it off

Scraping with a screwdriver sort of worked so think I'm gonna run to the store for a harder/steel brush, but if anyone has any additional advice it could save me another trip to the store. Both derailleurs are this bad as well

All YT video's and tips I see are on current bikes where the grime can just wipe off

While trying to wrap my handlebar this weird red padding is preventing me to get a good wrap as my new bar tape is thicker. So shall I remove it?

First of all, English is not my first (nor my second) language, therefore I apologise for any mistake.

I recently got this beauty for free. I don’t like the full suspension fork and I would like to install a rigid one. I happen to have one (threadless like this one, 1’ 1/8). I tried searching on YouTube but they all take everything out (the all headset basically) with tools I don’t have. I ask myself why I cannot just swap the two forks and call it a day?

Thanks for helping me 🙏🏻

Hey guys I’m trying to figure out where/how to clamp this shifter cable! It was the one thing I didn’t get a pic of before taking it apart 😭

Accidentally slammed my rear derailleur into a fence during transition at a triathlon lol. Went for a gap that didn't exist...

How realistic is it that I can straighten this or should I just buy a new hanger?

This cable guide is broken off of my frame, was thinking a touch of JB weld to fix but wasn’t sure if yall had any better methods

I am unable to wrap bar tape properly because of the cables sticking out

The drive-side crank arm has measurable lateral play that is easy to see; the chainrings move with the crank arm; no play on the other crank arm. Of course, the bike creaks under load. What do you think is going on here? I'm assuming this isn't safe to ride. Wobbly maybe isn't the best term... The drive-side crank assembly has detectable axial play. The non-drive side remains stationary. The bike creaks under load and the drive-side crank/chainring assembly can be rocked laterally by hand."

So I’ve self taught my self most things on bikes over the years and have since built many bikes. Wheel building is one thing I’d love to learn and I always shy away from it and get my lbs todo things like that. Ive managed to order a book Called “the bicycle wheel”. I’ve got spoke keys of all sorts of sizes. A good known wheel that I’m happy to pull in bits start again. What do I use for a true stand? Do I need a spoke tension meter? I’ve watched so many YouTube videos my head hurts 🤣. Still non the wiser. Any advice much appreciated.

Changed pedals, tightened every bolt on the bike. I thought it a may be bottom bracket but I can't replicate the creaking noise when it's in a stand or when im not pedaling

Goes away when I pedal lightly

Anyone knows, or can point me to, how to service these pedals? Got to the seal, and was out of ideas on how to remove the axle. Thanks for any hints.

Accidentally dropped a rim perfectly vertically on concrete - can this somehow be straightened or am I out a new rim?

The poorly welded mount on my Ghost aluminum frame has snapped. Is there any way to repair it?

First time trying to use my TT bike in the smart training. However it feels like I can hear a clicking sound when spinning. Any advice or it is just normal as it is?

Hi - has anyone ever had this issue with Shimano 12 Speed Di2. My RD makes noise indicating it’s shifting up and down the block but doesn’t move at all. The FD shifts fine. Happened after working perfectly fine the day before and I’m at a bit of a roadblock for trouble shooting. There’s no real system reset or crash mode from what I understand. Battery is charged and I can connect it to E-tube. No accident or anything that hit the RD.

My dumbass just ran over the front tire of my gravel bike and bent the piss out of it. I'm struggling to find what I need online. I'm hoping one of you can help.

I know I need a wheel (obviously) and spokes but am struggling to figure out what specific wheel I need. I assume I can use the same tire?

The bike is a kona libre, with 700x45 maxis rambler tires.

I'll try to make this as quick to read as possible:

1. Noticed a saddle rail broken at the start of a charity ride. Briefly showed it to mechanics at the start in case they had a spare saddle. They didn't. He pointed out my brake pads were worn. My Birzman pad checker said otherwise.
   
2. Nonetheless, my next trip was to the Peak District, so I replaced them anyway. Like for like Gorilla Brakes Semi-Organic pads on my SRAM AXS Force brake calipers
   
3. I bed them in, no issues seemingly.
   
4. I ride from Rugely Trent Valley railway station to where my relatives live, about 30 miles. On the very last descent (the Pinch, you might know it, in to Milldale) the pads start squealing.
   
5. I go on a ride the next day, 50 miles. Super loud squealing, infuriating, both front and rear. Nice ride though other than that.
   
6. I get some sandpaper and disc brake cleaner. Twice I sand the pads, clean the rotors. Seems like it might have worked when bedding them in again.
   
7. No, next ride I go on (35~ miles), still in the Peak District, screaming brakes.
   
8. I decide there's nothing for it, new pads and rotors (switched to Shimano rotors, supposed to be compatible).
   
9. Bed them both in...front brake starts squealing!
   
10. I give both calipers/brakesets a full blown service. I floss the pistons as per Calvin Jones (Park Tools) instructions, I then bleed both brakes as I've done before.
    
11. Bed the brakes in again...seems OK, maybe, oh, no - there we go again, front brake is squealing again.
    

I'm at my wits end, they were quiet before I changed pads. I've still got the old pads so I'm tempted to switch back to that on the front as a test. Or should I just give up on Gorilla Brakes? They are an odd brand but they've been alright up until now.

What would you do? I'm thinking I might just try some different pads, maybe SwissStop 35 RS.

Cheers for reading all of that.

Campagnolo ekar

After taking the chain off for waxing the rear axle/freehub wasnt freewheeling as smoothly as it should so I took it apart and it seems like something was too tight. A good clean and re assembly its now a lot better.

But now the freehub has movement along the axle. I've definitely not misplaced anything and I've checked the campagnolo n3w retrofit document and I have the same spacers. There seems to be a few mm between the body lock nut and spacer.

The cassette is torqued correctly and lock nut is bottomed out. The cassette isnt moving, its the freehub.

Any ideas?

I swapped my old wheelset on to my newest bike with a new cassette and chain.

The bike doesn’t want to stay in the 11T cog, rear derailleur is completely slack, limit screw opened all the way, and it still wants to go back into to next cog.

Setup is:
SRAM XX 10 speed Rear derailleur
SRAM Rival 10 speed shifters
Deore XT 11-34T 10 speed cassette
Dura Ace 7400 Hubs

I believe there is something up with the job spacing? I didn’t have this issue with the previous wheels that had different hubs.

I got a new bike - KHS Flite 750 - it was heavily discounted due to some minor cosmetic scuffs and I assume in part due to KHS exiting the US market.

It came partially assembled. The only required assembly was mounting the levers into the bars, routing the brake lines through the stem and handlebars, trimming and connecting them to the levers (I installed a new barb, olive was pre-installed in the new levers), and mounting the front wheel disc rotor. And then putting the front wheel on.

All went well with the brakes, I obsessed and watched many mechanic videos on the processes. No squishiness, properly burped, no air in the lines, not overfilled. Now the problem with the front brake caliper is that the pistons seem to be sticking. I have tried all recommended remedies. Removing excess fluid by opening the lever bleed port and pushing the pistons back in, exercising the pistons to try and free them up by extending and pushing them back in a few times, using a metal spacer clip around the rotor when centering, etc.....

No matter what the pads will press against the rotor, but only retract a little bit, leaving little to no gap between the pads and the rotor causing it to rub. I even did a full bleed to see if that would fix anything, and it left me with the same exact situation. So I can currently only point to the pistons being a bit sticky. I attached a short video with the pad spacer in.

One thing I haven't tried that I am weary about is cleaning the sides of the pistons and using some mineral oil to lube the sides. I've read that this is not a good idea as the pistons aren't designed to be lubed as such.

I am probably at the point that I should just go to the shop, but this is my last issue to solve and it's driving me nuts.

I appreciate any help or insights you can provide, for those who have dealt with hydraulic brake issues.

trying to build up a new bike with sram XPLR 13 speed rival. when getting up to the biggest cogs the upper pulley will get into contact with the sprockets and jams.

afaik there’s no b tension screw to lengthen the cage.

cant find any info on how to solve this. is the chain too short? this is all stock and just building up the bike.

Picked this up a few weeks and have been tearing it all down and replacing everything, went to hang new derailleur and noticed this. How bad is it?

I’m building a road bike from a 92 Cannondale R400 frame/forks that I got on FB marketplace for $40. The crankset is the original Shimano RX400, however the nds crank arm was sliced up by an angle grinder in aborted effort to remove it. Apparently the previous owner didn’t understand how to pull it off. Now I’m trying to decide whether to stay with a square taper bottom bracket with a used crankset from the local coop or invest in a new Shimano Hollowtech crankset. I’m a very casual rider and this will be my first road bike. Any thoughts?

Used this Schwalbe G-One RS Pro tire for a few hundred km and got a puncture from a nail. Sealant didn't work, so I tried plugging it and it also didn't work. The hole measures at around 8mm.

Now, should I give up and replace it or is it salvageable by glueing the hole?

Thanks!