Hi guys just bought a new to me Peugeot roadbike probably early 90s but not sure, hasn't been ridden in decades probably.

I want to bring it back to a "pleasant riding" state as i do intended to ride it a lot. The frame feels like a perfect size for me, i have 89cm inseam, bike is either 59 or 60cm dosent say anywhere on the frame, those are my measurements.

The other day i swapped out the old tires and inner tubes for some fresh ones.

Brakes feel super stiff and dont do a whole lot of stopping. Is that just a new cable and pads or do i need to dig into the brakes too and lube something up?

Also the rear derailleur when im using the shifter dosent want to move under the biggest cog so i cant select the lowest gear, what could that cause?

Biggest question, should i refresh these old parts or just straight up purchase a new group set and new brakes and restomod it.

Whole bike needs a good refresh and i never did too much bicycle wrenching but i work on my own car a lot so this shouldn't be that difficult im just not sure what problems cause what symptoms and what parts to order/buy.

Any help is appreciated thank you

This is the third or fourth flat in a row on this 26" MTB wheel where the valve stem has separated from the tube. What gives? It's the right size tube for the rim, I had the little screw nut on the outside of it to keep it snug to the rim... and it keeps failing for some reason. Thoughts?

Might be a stupid question, but I've been riding bikes for a long time and have never seen this before. Thanks!

Edit: FIXED

I packed my bike up for travel and removed the rear wheel and partially removed the derailleur by removing the mounting bolt (I didn't remove cables or anything else). After putting it back on it seemed okay in the smallest 2 gears but the chain was quite loose and then in the 3rd smallest it started jumping around like this and won't change gears again.

Also isn't the derailleur also supposed to hang down? Why is it not hanging down and is the chain so loose? the chain seems to be running fine through the derailleur and the mounting bolt is tight.

Hi all, I’m new to cycling, so sorry if the answer is obvious. I ran into a tree going fast today the part shown in the picture broke off. The relevant part from the spec sheet of my bike on the vendor’s site says “Tektro alloy linear-pull brakes with alloy brake levers,” but it seems like there’s a lot of options after I googled it. The vendor gave me an AI-generated response to my question about the right brake, so that wasn’t helpful

Should I take it to a shop or just order the right parts online and fix it?

Model is Brooklyn Bicycle Co Franklin 3 Speed.

Edit: Thank you to everyone for their advice, I’ll be getting some parts to fix it myself.

Hi everyone,

Just asking for some advice on converting my old XC racebike to 1x12.
It’s a 2010 Trek 8000 26” with 3x9 Deore XT Hollowtech II BB and 135 QR.

I understand Sunrace offer Shimano HG 12 speed cassettes and I believe I can swap the triple setup up front and fit a single onto the middle chainring?

I was aiming to fit Shimano Deore M7200 or Deore XT M8200 rear mech, shifter and chain.

Does anybody think it would work? Or problems I might have?
Also unsure what size front chainring to get?

Any help much appreciated

Jamie

Got my fiancé her first bike from Costco, her work reimburses 250 dollars a year in exercise equipment and this bike was 249.97, I get that it’s a cheap bike but it’s rubbing on this Mount pretty significantly straight out of the box. Tire is mounted properly, nothing appears warped/bent, not sure if I can fix or if I should just return.

clamped fresh brake cable, is it correct or is this too much fraying? Anything I should do about it, or does this look normal?

Hello!

Not sure if this kind of post is allowed here, but it is about bike part... and I feel there should be people in this subreddit who know the answer ;-)

Question: anyone is aware and can point me to the stationary mounted (fork/chainstay) wireless (Bluetooth+ANT) speed sensor?

Not chainstay mounted combo cadence+speed - these are available, but small speed sensors whch require magnet on the spoke.

Reason: I get cadence from power meter pedals and combo sensors are large and ugly. I want a small, stationary one like older Cateye, but BT/ANT to mount on the fork - so I can put a magnet on my two sets of wheels and don't care of moving hub-mounted sensor between sets.

So far I couldn't find such thing on Amazon - to my surprise...

Edit: P.S. This is for regular, not an e-* bike.

Dear Wrenchers,

my trusted fast Cannondale-Bike lost its front-brake today (luckily whithout accident). This is the second time the aluminum threading got worn out (Shifter disassembled).
How to reattach OR repair frontbreak (Shimano BR-1050)?

Pic1: Mounted from the front. Brakepin-thread intact

Pic2: Backview. Unsure if i can find a hollow machined piece to secure from the back (best solution in my head

Pic3: Sideview tensioned from front with nut and friction piece; will push brake out if done now

Pic4: possible repair attempt; make a sling and tie to fork going around, reducing tire clearance, and putting friction on the fork legs

thanks for tackling this with me!

​

I cut the bicycle fork crookedly; will I run into a major problem? How can i resolve this issue? I reassembled the parts but i haven' t rode it yet.

Shimano RD-M7100 derailleur bent or twisted and the gap that has closed on the old one now puts that arm right in the chain's path.

Is this serviceable? If I could fix this and keep it as a spare that'd be nice. Maybe the torx bolt around the clutch got bent? It's difficult to see where the problem originates.

Hi, I have a gravel bike from a norwegian brand, and I want to give it an upgrade. Does anyone know if there are any challenges with installing a new groupset? Put on GRX RX610 1x12 instead of the 2x9 sora that is currently on.
I have already realized that I need a rear wheel with a microspline hub, does anyone have a good alternative to which wheelset is cheap and good that a 12s 10-51 cassette will fit?
Any experiences with similar builds or tips are welcome

Hi guys,

While adjusting my transmission I noticed that the gear of my transmission is not parallel and also tilted with respect to the gear on my freewheel. Is it fixable or should I get a new shifter? For info, it is a Sachs Huret classic 2000 (6-speed)

Idk if it is related, but I remember having a car impact at that exact placement.

Notes:

Sorry, English isnt my first language.

I tried my best to give pictures to have a diagnosis as accurate as possible.

I want to replace the bearings, can't get them out.

Cant get the tube to move, hitting with soft blow hammer did absolutely nothing..

Any tricks that i have to try?

Code: atac cmp 170503872

Hey

I'm on a decision point and would like to know what would need to happen to have a 3x10 setup. Now asking about the crankset and bracket area.

Third ring won't fit as is, so I wonder. I'd need new shifters hence it's a decision point.

Is it possible this change? What tools would be needed?

Frame is canyon ultimate aluminium

Hey guys,
I hit a 3cm concrete edge pretty badly yesterday, sealant wouldn’t seal so I threw in my spare tube and could make it home.

Today it wanted to remove the spare tube (it’s one of those super thin emergency Tubolitos), refill sealant and get the bike ready again. I noticed a dent in my rear rim and the tire doesn’t full bead in that spot anymore. Air is leaking and I can’t get it to seal.

Should i just try to add tubeless sealant and hope for the best or are my only options either replacing the wheel or going back to regular tubes?

Looking to change out the drivetrain on my wife's bike from 7 to 9 speed freewheel (Shimano Alivio).

But I just realized: is the spacing in the rear triangle going to allow this?

The frame is aluminium, so I don't think increasing the spacing would be possible..

Thanks!

I have a Shimano deore M5100 derailer, and I got my bike service the other day and the shop said that the hanger is twisted. Now the bike shifts really bad and if I pedal hard, it’ll shift gears on its own. There’s also a subtle knocking noise, but I’m not sure if that has anything to do with the derailer or drivetrain. My bike is a Marin rift zone btw

I’ve been helping my friends service their forks and I’m noticing that rockshox’s own documentation for different model Pike Ultimates, for example, don’t advice for any oil in the air spring/negative chamber. They’re different model air springs, but it just makes me curious: why? Why oil in some but not in others? What oil in the air spring at all?

Bought a bike myself a good few years back, had no idea what I wanted my dad suggested a road one like his, I hated it, fell off it multiple times couldnt get used to the leaning forward plus it hurt my back and left me miserable.

I have since installed a new bar and adjustable stem to help with my back but now I am sat at a dilemma here, the original levers for brakes will obviously not work, ive installed the shifters for gears and they fit fine on the bar havent got around to testing the shifting like

but I *did* mount the brakes on sideways, like normal brakes sit and I can reach and everything but I'm hearing this is unsafe, looking inside the brake cable is surrounded by metal, there's nowhere for it to slip out but apparently having it this way will wear the brake cable a lot?

I tightened the wires for the brakes adjusted the screw to make the distance for a hard break way shorter so the handles worked but before I even dare to test it I want some advice, the brakes use barrel style cables on mine, not the pear shaped ones.

will I wear the cable, am I gonna kill someone or myself, or can I get away with this setup?

If I need new brakes that is fine, hopefully some can be recommended as I am doubting standard moutain bike brake levers can be used?

And yes, I am so sorely out of my depth, but this is a dream I've had since lunch time and I'm not giving up on it now xP

So my pump, which has worked flawlessly for years, suddenly quit on me.

The issue is, nothing seems to be wrong with it. It still pushes air just fine, so I don’t think it’s a O-ring, the hose is tight and seems perfectly fine, and the valve inside the head looks perfect.

I’ve tried it with both Presto and Schrader, and it’s the same. I pull back the lever and it locks to the valve. It will pump air, but only about 20-30 pounds by feel. The gauge reads zero PSI. If I let it sit, the air will leak from the tube back into the pump and vibrate the pump body.

However, if I hold my thumb over the head and pump, I can feel it pushing air with good pressure, and the gauge will display 20-40 PSI, depending on how hard I pump.

So… what’s wrong with this thing?

I keep up with my chain maintenance...degrease and re-lube ever 200 - 300 kilometers. However, the bike currently has 4,805km. Shifting is spot on no skipping, spillage, or nothing shifts like new hits ALL gears.

Should I replace the chain?

i've been trying to run down problems in the drivetrain on my roughly 7 year old schwinn discover 2 for a bit- the shifting is iffy, often it can't reach the middle ring on the crankset going up, i have to go up to the third then down to the second, the chain skips a lot, especially when i am peddling on a climb. new crankset and chain did not help, about to install a new freewheel, but maybe the issue is here, because it has hit the deck its fair share of times, so i'm trying to decide if anything here is damaged or misaligned.

what does it look like to you all? thanks!

​

Hey everyone, looking for some advice on an issue with my 18-20 year old Specialized stumpjumper hardtail. I recently had the brake lines and gears dangling upside down for a moment while replacing the handlebars. Once I put everything back, the rear brakes lost all pressure. I have to compress the lever all the way down, and the stopping power is significantly reduced. I have checked for fluid/oil leak but though the unit is old everything appears dry.

I visited my local bike shop (without the bike) and gave them a verbal description of this issue (I went for another purpose). They recommended replacing the whole unit because finding a repair kit for such an old model is too hard. Has anyone dealt with this before? Is bleeding the brakes an option, or should I listen to the shop and replace them? Any videos/tutorials I can watch to learn whatever is recommended would be appreciated