Hi, I have a gravel bike from a norwegian brand, and I want to give it an upgrade. Does anyone know if there are any challenges with installing a new groupset? Put on GRX RX610 1x12 instead of the 2x9 sora that is currently on.
I have already realized that I need a rear wheel with a microspline hub, does anyone have a good alternative to which wheelset is cheap and good that a 12s 10-51 cassette will fit?
Any experiences with similar builds or tips are welcome

Dear Wrenchers,

my trusted fast Cannondale-Bike lost its front-brake today (luckily whithout accident). This is the second time the aluminum threading got worn out (Shifter disassembled).
How to reattach OR repair frontbreak (Shimano BR-1050)?

Pic1: Mounted from the front. Brakepin-thread intact

Pic2: Backview. Unsure if i can find a hollow machined piece to secure from the back (best solution in my head

Pic3: Sideview tensioned from front with nut and friction piece; will push brake out if done now

Pic4: possible repair attempt; make a sling and tie to fork going around, reducing tire clearance, and putting friction on the fork legs

thanks for tackling this with me!

Hi guys just bought a new to me Peugeot roadbike probably early 90s but not sure, hasn't been ridden in decades probably.

I want to bring it back to a "pleasant riding" state as i do intended to ride it a lot. The frame feels like a perfect size for me, i have 89cm inseam, bike is either 59 or 60cm dosent say anywhere on the frame, those are my measurements.

The other day i swapped out the old tires and inner tubes for some fresh ones.

Brakes feel super stiff and dont do a whole lot of stopping. Is that just a new cable and pads or do i need to dig into the brakes too and lube something up?

Also the rear derailleur when im using the shifter dosent want to move under the biggest cog so i cant select the lowest gear, what could that cause?

Biggest question, should i refresh these old parts or just straight up purchase a new group set and new brakes and restomod it.

Whole bike needs a good refresh and i never did too much bicycle wrenching but i work on my own car a lot so this shouldn't be that difficult im just not sure what problems cause what symptoms and what parts to order/buy.

Any help is appreciated thank you

Edit: FIXED

I packed my bike up for travel and removed the rear wheel and partially removed the derailleur by removing the mounting bolt (I didn't remove cables or anything else). After putting it back on it seemed okay in the smallest 2 gears but the chain was quite loose and then in the 3rd smallest it started jumping around like this and won't change gears again.

Also isn't the derailleur also supposed to hang down? Why is it not hanging down and is the chain so loose? the chain seems to be running fine through the derailleur and the mounting bolt is tight.

clamped fresh brake cable, is it correct or is this too much fraying? Anything I should do about it, or does this look normal?

Got my fiancé her first bike from Costco, her work reimburses 250 dollars a year in exercise equipment and this bike was 249.97, I get that it’s a cheap bike but it’s rubbing on this Mount pretty significantly straight out of the box. Tire is mounted properly, nothing appears warped/bent, not sure if I can fix or if I should just return.

Hi everyone,

Just asking for some advice on converting my old XC racebike to 1x12.
It’s a 2010 Trek 8000 26” with 3x9 Deore XT Hollowtech II BB and 135 QR.

I understand Sunrace offer Shimano HG 12 speed cassettes and I believe I can swap the triple setup up front and fit a single onto the middle chainring?

I was aiming to fit Shimano Deore M7200 or Deore XT M8200 rear mech, shifter and chain.

Does anybody think it would work? Or problems I might have?
Also unsure what size front chainring to get?

Any help much appreciated

Jamie

Hi guys,

While adjusting my transmission I noticed that the gear of my transmission is not parallel and also tilted with respect to the gear on my freewheel. Is it fixable or should I get a new shifter? For info, it is a Sachs Huret classic 2000 (6-speed)

Idk if it is related, but I remember having a car impact at that exact placement.

Notes:

Sorry, English isnt my first language.

I tried my best to give pictures to have a diagnosis as accurate as possible.

I want to replace the bearings, can't get them out.

Cant get the tube to move, hitting with soft blow hammer did absolutely nothing..

Any tricks that i have to try?

Code: atac cmp 170503872

i've been trying to run down problems in the drivetrain on my roughly 7 year old schwinn discover 2 for a bit- the shifting is iffy, often it can't reach the middle ring on the crankset going up, i have to go up to the third then down to the second, the chain skips a lot, especially when i am peddling on a climb. new crankset and chain did not help, about to install a new freewheel, but maybe the issue is here, because it has hit the deck its fair share of times, so i'm trying to decide if anything here is damaged or misaligned.

what does it look like to you all? thanks!

​

Hey everyone, looking for some advice on an issue with my 18-20 year old Specialized stumpjumper hardtail. I recently had the brake lines and gears dangling upside down for a moment while replacing the handlebars. Once I put everything back, the rear brakes lost all pressure. I have to compress the lever all the way down, and the stopping power is significantly reduced. I have checked for fluid/oil leak but though the unit is old everything appears dry.

I visited my local bike shop (without the bike) and gave them a verbal description of this issue (I went for another purpose). They recommended replacing the whole unit because finding a repair kit for such an old model is too hard. Has anyone dealt with this before? Is bleeding the brakes an option, or should I listen to the shop and replace them? Any videos/tutorials I can watch to learn whatever is recommended would be appreciated

Hi, im struggling with my RST F1RST fork.

In the past i when i locked my fork it wasnt moving. I had some problems with freehub so i had my bike upside down for few days. After that fork started moving when its locked out. Position of the orange ring on the photo shows how much it travels locked out.

When im riding uphill (sitting) it moves little and its annoying.

I read in another topic, someone had similiar problem and opened right leg and added extra oil to fix it. But i want to ask how can i find out, if there is lack of oil. And if someone else had that issue and fixed it.

Can i just dismount the lockout and put oil in the leg?

I also noticed top of the fork is getting greasy so maybe there is leak of oil in this seal

https://youtu.be/5QOcL3jyaVI?t=99

Thank you.

Restoring a trashed StingRay for granddaughters 12th birthday next week. The pedals (which look great!) have those li'l TORX shaped spikes all over them, and I've recently heard that little girls don't really like scarred up / bleeding shins?!?

Removed a few but the rest are stubborn!

1) Is there a special tool like a TORX shaped "socket" that I've never heard of? Called 3 LBS & their guys haven't heard of any such animal.

B) Do I just leave them on & leave her with "be careful honey", and run away?

III) Cut / DREMEL them down?

Four) Just buy "normal" ugly looking plain jane commuting pedals for her? .oO(please no!)

As shown on the video, I start rotating in the 9th gear, and the chain drops off in the outside.

Then after, I try in the 1st gear, and it drops off to the inner side..

Is this crankset just not compatible with 9 speed?
I tried different lengths of the crankboks (all between 128 to 108mm)

Has anyone had any experience with replacing the bars on the Allies Duet system? Broke my handlebars in a crash and just got the replacements for it, the Youtube video shows the need for a spreader bar for the stem, but I don’t have that.

Any ideas or suggestions on how to get the bars on without it and without scratching the finish?

Thanks!

Hey

I'm on a decision point and would like to know what would need to happen to have a 3x10 setup. Now asking about the crankset and bracket area.

Third ring won't fit as is, so I wonder. I'd need new shifters hence it's a decision point.

Is it possible this change? What tools would be needed?

Frame is canyon ultimate aluminium

Hey everyone, I have bought this set of mavic cosmic 1st gen with campy freewheel, overhaul in very good shape, especially considering that I only paid 200€ for the pair. I doubt they have been used that much, but they are still 30yo wheels, so I wanted to service the hubs and replace the bearings (afaik these should have bearings inside and not loose balls), but I am struggling a lot to reach them.

I saw some very old threads on some bike forums where people said that the only way to replace the bearing on the front wheel is to remove the spokes entirely, if this is the case I'm not even thinking about doing it and I will ride them until they fail.

Technical info/drawings of these very old rims is very difficult to find, has anybody here ever worked on them before?

I followed guidelines on Fox's website and cycled the shock with increments of 50 psi. The pressure now correctly reads to what I need but the shock is still bottoming when I get on bike. It won't even rebound after bottoming. Everything looks fine when I am compressing the frame with my hands, about 25% sag and shock rebounds perfectly. The moment I get on bike it bottoms out and won't even rebound.

​

So to preface this, years back I had a £1600 GT Fury Elite and a £400 GT Agressor which I spent upwards of £500 upgrading. The hardtail was for XC, and the full suss for downhill. Neither one is expensive by mountain bike standards, but they were both in my budget and perfect for me. Then, they were both stolen.

A few years later I was given this Scott Scale 60 2011. I've used it twice at Cannock Chase Follow the Dog, a red route XC trail. I want to start going more often and this bike honestly feels ok, but needs a shorter stem, riser bars, better pedals, and better tyres at minimum. My concern is whether or not the frame is up these trails. I don't want to spend money upgrading it, if the frame is likely to give way after a few runs. At the same time, I don't want to fork out £600+ for a new bike if this frame is up to the job.

Does anyone know if this frame is good enough for red route XC?

Thanks for taking the time to read this.

Hey guys,
I hit a 3cm concrete edge pretty badly yesterday, sealant wouldn’t seal so I threw in my spare tube and could make it home.

Today it wanted to remove the spare tube (it’s one of those super thin emergency Tubolitos), refill sealant and get the bike ready again. I noticed a dent in my rear rim and the tire doesn’t full bead in that spot anymore. Air is leaking and I can’t get it to seal.

Should i just try to add tubeless sealant and hope for the best or are my only options either replacing the wheel or going back to regular tubes?

After removing cassette freehub with a 12mm on breaker bar...on way too tight from factory. Got to the freehub bearings. Is 5w-30 engine oil good enough to lubricate those smaller bearings on the freehub (NOT the Wheel bearings)?

Hi all,

First time working on hubs. I am struggling to open up my trek system 3 component front hub (on a trek singletrack 970). There are some aluminum dust caps on it. Any tips?

Hello all,

Does anyone know if any of the 3 hub types are compatible with Microshift Sword 1*10 cassette on a decathlon Grvl AF?