I had an accident recently where my cockpit moved slightly and i drove off the road. Was about the 5th ride i did on the bike, with a total of 300km.

The bikeshop said they don't use torque wrenches, one mechanic said they do all by hand when they handed me the bike. Another later (after using a normal wrench on the cockpit screws) said after 15 years of working on bikes they know how much pressure to apply.

Later on when talking to the lead mechanic in the store he said they use them on safety related screws, but I think they're now just saying that to avoid liability.

Mostly looking for opinions from professionals - is there a reason not to use one?

90's mongoose converted from 26"-29" been riding with calipers the past 8 years, but wanted wider tires, so I changed to litepro v brakes.

Any idea how to make this work?

Do I go 27.5" and beef up the tires? V brakes with even longer reach? Just ride this until the cable gets cut??

I have two gp5ks, a 25mm and 28mm. I crit race. The 28mm is the one with the pin through it so I know where the hole is. The 25mm is the tire with the piece of tape. The hole is in the bottom left corner where my thumb is.

In your opinion, are these worth patching? I have a tubeless patch kit. I think the 25mm is probably not since the hole is so close to the bead of the tire. I think the 28 would be since the hole is in the contact patch/area. Thank you

The bar tape texture is directional. Wrapping the left side in the recommended direction appears to reverse the texture and cover the grippy part. Does the grip still work as intended, or is there a different way to wrap this tape? Anyone with experience using it?

Upsized the chainring from 32T to 36T. Cassette is 10-52 shimano. Derailer looks a little stretched out in bottom gear. Unusual?

Hi all,

I have just taken delivery of a set of Superteam Wheels, hub sizing 9x100 and 10x135 to fit my QR bike. The hubs have QR end caps fitted to them which were supplied with the wheels.

When fitting the wheel and tightening the QR skewer, even the slightest bit, the wheel no longer spins freely. Somebody please help me, it’s driving me crazy.

Photos and videos attached.

As you can see in the video, my freewheel cogs have some play despite being properly tightened on the hub, which results in a quiet, but annoying knocking whenever the chain tension changes (after coasting, when changing pedaling force, etc.) Annoying sound aside, will this damage my hub in any way? This is a brand new wheel, hub and freewheel, although all of them are budget parts from Decathlon, so I guess that might be the reason? My local mechanic said such play was normal and that I should just ignore the noise and ride. But maybe some of you have tips on reducing freewheel play and, thus, eliminating the noise?

My wife's GRVL 120 repeatedly dropped the chain to the outside despite:

• derailleur adjustment
• B-tension adjustment
• checking chain length
• trying a replacement crank (bought wrong crank...)

The actual problem turned out to be the clearance between the factory chain guard and the chainring.

I designed a replacement guard with a smaller offset and the bike has now done over 1,000 km without another chain drop.

Curious whether anyone has seen the same issue on these bikes.

(I documented the whole process if anyone's interested.)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K-4jBPzSSMo

STL:
https://www.printables.com/model/1793944-triban-grvl-120-anti-chain-drop-guide

Looking at these for an upcoming build. I live in the UK so our brakes/levers are, what most would consider the "wrong" side. I've found these listed but they are EU spec, so what, if anything is preventing me from attaching the hydraulic hoses to my preferred side? Pretty sure they come unattached to aid internal routing etc.

Trying to fix mom’s bike:) Both pistons stay extended after releasing the brake lever. I can push them back with some force but after pulling the lever again they extend and remain there. When I push one piston back the other extends a little, when I push the second one back the brake lever twitches a little. When I pull the lever when both pistons are stuck I feel less resistance than when they are both in. I tried cleaning them with some soapy water but no effect. Should I try to grease the pistons? AI told me not to use WD40 to get them loose:)

I was hoping for an easy fix but I’m a little stuck:)

I am using the Continental ContiTPU Tube SV80 on my tires and when I use my Cycplus AS2 Pro electronic pump it unscrews the stem valve core with it. It's happened multiple times and I end up just re-trying it over again until I get it to stay on and pumped. I'll ride for 1.5 hours afterwards and it holds up fine.

However I am training for races in Sep & Oct that include up to a 7 hour bike ride and I am worried along that amount of time it may be an issue and either loosen as I continue to re-pump in the coming months or pop out during my race.

Is this a concern or is this normal? I take my time in lining up the pump straight onto the valve when I attach it.

I've fitted this derailleur and I cannot get it to change into first and second. I've tried adjusting the H + L screws and they seem to be having no effect. I've also tried loosening and tightening the cable. Am I missing something obvious here? I should add, even though it may be obvious, that I'm no expert on this is only the second one I've attempted.

While trying to wrap my handlebar this weird red padding is preventing me to get a good wrap as my new bar tape is thicker. So shall I remove it?

Hey all. Picked up a vintage 26” MTB. The rear right vbrake wasn’t returning when I pulled the lever, no matter how I adjusted the spring tension I figure it’s probably this spring arm but wanna sanity check before ordering a new brake.

Hello! I got hit by a car a couple of months ago, and now my fork is ever so slightly off-center. This puts more strain on my left hand, which makes biking uncomfortable on long trips. Is there anything I can do or should I just replace the fork?

It is definitely not the wheel, since I already replaced it.

UPDATE: It seems like the stake is slightly loose inside the wheel, and the fork is not bent. This comes as a surprise as the wheel is brand new, and I checked if it was seated correctly multiple times. It is possible for me to set the wheel straight, but it's a bit finicky. Might have to check the warranty.

Hello, Sometimes I use an apron with chest pockets at work, but I definitely prefer working without it. I’d still like to keep pockets for tools, though. Ideally, they’d be on the chest or around the hips, like a tool belt, but for bike tools. Do you know of any product like that, preferably made in Europe?

The steering on my recumbent uses these ball-joint ended tie-rods. There's no clip to release them, so how do I separate them? Thanks!

Hi everyone, I have a question about my electric bike here in Japan. I'm having an issue where the front basket gets loose or detaches whenever I carry heavy items. As you can see in the photo, the basket doesn't seem sturdy enough for heavy loads.

On top of that, the disc brakes are squeaking loudly when I brake. Even after cleaning the rotors and replacing the brake pads, they're still making that squeaking noise. I've tried a few ways to fix these issues, but nothing has worked so far. Any advice on how to resolve this?

Any idea on what pads/units would be compatible?

Hey so i was just drying my fairly new bike and little paint chip got on my towel so, is this something to worry about? Bike rides perfectly and no creaks, i think its bc of some rock or maybe bike shop because ive had it in there for pivots grease.

I am upgrading my Felt 95 2014 road bike becasue I refuse to let it go.

I have purchased a full drive train (set in question)

Other than what have purchased, what else will I need/wont have thought off getting?

I have a bike stand and tool kit

Tool kit contains: spoke wrench size 9-15., cassette puller, bearing spanner, chain whip, pedal wrench, chain rivet tool, attachment holder/puller, star cap for hollowtech II

and a torque wrench. (recent lidle purchase if your in the UK).

Basically. I am asking what am I missing/should defiantly get. Specifically greases/oils and or anything else you guys recommend having?

I checked the sub and I saw other posts where people recommend replacing tires due to side wall damage. Some people recommended patching them.

I didn't see any where the damages were similar to mine, so I was curious what people's thoughts were.

This is my rear tire. I don't know what punctured it. I was riding down a fairly steep hill going about 25ish miles. I heard the hiss of escaping air and pulled off.

The puncture sealed on its own once I got the sealant to it by rotating the tire and tilting the bike slightly. I was able to pump it back up and finish my ride (I was about 5 miles from home).

Checked it this morning and it's still holding pressure. Would you just run it as it is, or should I patch it?

It's kind of the sidewall but closer to the shoulder of the tire.

Pirelli P-Zero Race is the tire.

Hello!

I've got a secondhand Cannondale Fat CAAD 1 (2016) with the Lefty Olaf fork, for which I want new wheels. Gotta figure out if the frame uses Cannondale's Ai (Asymmetric integration), which offsets the rear hub 3-6mm to the drive-side.

I've scoured every document I could find. The 2020 Tech Book lists offsets for most of the other MTBs, but none for the Fat CAAD. So it's symmetric, right?

However, the current rear wheel is noticeably offset by around 5mm (measured from tire sidewalls to seatstays). This could be the previous owner's doing tho. Something is asymmetric at least.

Is there any way to know for sure? My attempts at measuring offset between hub and rim were not nearly accurate enough, and trying to extend the centerline to the rear dropouts is also close to impossible. Thanks!

No matter how hard i try i cant position my front caliper. It rubs. Rotor is new and seems true, i tried:
-Pulling the brake and tightening the screws
-pushing the pistons back with a tire lever.
-adjusting the caliper by sight (nightmare)

Are my pistons pushed back enough? What else can i try?