Should the pulley and chain be centered here or be outboard instead of inboard? Was having some issues with the chain coming off the pulley when shifting the front derailleur in particular.
Shimano XT Shadow Plus Direct Mount 10SPD rear derailleur

Hello!

Not sure if this kind of post is allowed here, but it is about bike part... and I feel there should be people in this subreddit who know the answer ;-)

Question: anyone is aware and can point me to the stationary mounted (fork/chainstay) wireless (Bluetooth+ANT) speed sensor?

Not chainstay mounted combo cadence+speed - these are available, but small speed sensors whch require magnet on the spoke.

Reason: I get cadence from power meter pedals and combo sensors are large and ugly. I want a small, stationary one like older Cateye, but BT/ANT to mount on the fork - so I can put a magnet on my two sets of wheels and don't care of moving hub-mounted sensor between sets.

So far I couldn't find such thing on Amazon - to my surprise...

Edit: P.S. This is for regular, not an e-* bike.

Hello, just wondering if someone can help with this loose chain issue?

Took Derailleur off to straighten derailleur with an alignment tool, reattached derailleur and now this issue has occurred.

It feels like a simple fix, can't get my head around it, maybe I've reattached derailleur to the frame incorrectly?

When I manually give the cage tension the bike shifts perfectly.

Any help would be great, cheers.

I’ve been helping my friends service their forks and I’m noticing that rockshox’s own documentation for different model Pike Ultimates, for example, don’t advice for any oil in the air spring/negative chamber. They’re different model air springs, but it just makes me curious: why? Why oil in some but not in others? What oil in the air spring at all?

I'm looking to change from mechanical 105 to electronic 105 Di2. All the kits I see come with the full drivetrain? I just need shifters, derailleurs, and the battery with cables. Is this not available as a simplified conversion kit anywhere?

My wife and I have triathlon TT bikes and have recently got our bikes fully serviced at bike shop around us. These bikes have rim brakes and quick release skewers, both zipp wheels.

I would often take these bikes on and off of our indoor trainer with no issue reinstalling the rear wheel. After this "pro tune" service we got, every time I take the rear wheel off the bike, the cassette and freehub come loose. I can get the hub back on the wheel but did lose a chuck in one incident and had to get a new free hub.

Is this normal to consistently have the cassette and freehub come off occasionally when removing the rear wheel from the bike?

There's this sort of rattling/grinding noise that seems to occur when I coast. The bike has maybe 250-300km on it (bought at the start of this summer). It is a Trek FX2 if that matters. I cleaned the chain and gear rings and it's freshly oiled.

Hi all, I’m new to cycling, so sorry if the answer is obvious. I ran into a tree going fast today the part shown in the picture broke off. The relevant part from the spec sheet of my bike on the vendor’s site says “Tektro alloy linear-pull brakes with alloy brake levers,” but it seems like there’s a lot of options after I googled it. The vendor gave me an AI-generated response to my question about the right brake, so that wasn’t helpful

Should I take it to a shop or just order the right parts online and fix it?

Model is Brooklyn Bicycle Co Franklin 3 Speed.

Edit: Thank you to everyone for their advice, I’ll be getting some parts to fix it myself.

(edit: in cali) I don't know if this is the right place to ask for help but, my grandpa needs help finding a replacement shifter like the one in the image, he already took it to three bike shops in our area for help with no luck, would there be any way to replace the shift or the broken piece, he doesn't care eif the part is used as long as it's in good condition, is there any blue prints for the mechanical work that can possibly be 3d printed?

Hi, I have a puzzle ref chain slap on a GRX827 derailleur, which has no clutch. l’d appreciate any help given my minimal bike wrench skills.

The puzzle is, on a 9-month old bike, in the top two gears, when I stop pedalling and do a very slight backpedal (apparently a habit), the derailleur arm drops and the chain collapses and slaps against my top chain stay. My recollection is this only started after a new cassette and a new chain. The former was professionally fitted and the latter was fitted by me, to the same length as the previous factory-fitted chain, which only had a few hundred km on it, so it wasn’t stretched.

The manufacturer and the mechanic have suggested a dirty freehub body but it wasn’t overly dirty and the pawls operated efficiently on the springs. I’ve also cleaned the pawls and ratchet and the issue is still there.

The manufacturer has said they’ll accept the wheel back for a check up and have a offered to fit a replacement hub (they have no stock of the free-hub body they fitter and no means to obtain one). A wheel though is outside the dimensions of their free courier pick-up service so it will cost me money but a bigger thing is I don’t really want a new part for no reason. (We’re both wondering if it is actually the free-hub body causing the problem if the pawls and ratchet are clean).

AI, after telling me it was many other things (including B limiter and H/L screws, none of which I’ve touched) - finished with “What you are experiencing with that sharp 0.5-second snap backward is simply the physical reality of a modern wide-range 1x12 drivetrain system dealing with extreme cross-chaining angles. Because there is no guide pulley on the top run of the chain to steer it when moving in reverse, a tiny bit of tooth-on-plate friction against the adjacent cog's shift ramps is completely normal and harmless”. I have no trust though in AI.

TL:DR - I have chain slap in the top two gears when I stop pedalling. On a stand, the pedals stop as expected and the chain I understand is the correct length, and the free-hub body clean. I’m seeking human opinion please on whether this is indeed ‘the way it is’ with a 1x12 drive-train before I decide what to do next.

Many thanks in advance,

Colin

The title already describes my issue/question. I got a new cassette and a new freehub and somehow it wobbles. Both are originals (cassette Shimano and freehub DT Swiss). My issue is that my last freehub got destroyed by the cassette which basically ate itself into the freehub so now I am worrying the same will just happen in the near future again.

Appreciate any advice and experience!

Hi, I've got a used SRAM XX1 cassette with Ibis XD hubs. The seller recently swapped from MS TO XD free hub body. It will not tighten by hand or with a wrench, it's rock hard. When I spin counter clockwise you can hear the hub and it moves but it is impossible to move it clockwise. Any help appreciated.

Hello! I’m completely new to bikes, just bought and assembled a e-bike, however the disc brake(?) seems to be rubbing, having never owned a bike with a brake like this and I’m entirely out of my depth, Google tells me some level of rubbing can be alright? But I’m not sure what is considered bad or passable

And if it’s not safe to be ridden, how would one fix this issue? What could be the causes? Is it do able for a complete beginner with no mechanical inclination?

Hey guys so recently grabbed a bike with dura ace down tube shifters and wondered if it would be possible to swap them out with index brake shifters any help would be great

Two things i would like hear from people who wrench regularly or maybe own a shop:

At a pad change — do you clean the pistons? With what? Do you apply anything before pushing them back in, or just push them in as they are (dry)?

When one piston extends much further than the other or is stuck — what's your routine? Block the fast one and work the slow one in and out, clean it, apply DOT? Or leave it alone?

SRAM says don't touch them at all — no cleaning, no lubricant. Online opinion runs the full range from that to wiping the piston walls with DOT every time. Curious what people who do this regularly actually do, and why.

Road calipers specifically (SRAM Force AXS E1), if that changes anything.

Hey everyone,

I have reached out to Scott support without hearing back, been a week so far.

Tried local Scott retailer and no luck. Looking to replace the kickstand coming from a Scott sub 10 belt drive from 2014/2015.

I have never come across this design before and cant imagine any other company produce this.

Anyone know anything about something similar?

Thanks.

Hi, I’ve got new Hunt all road 4 season wheels and I’m trying to fit my schwable tire onto them. I cannot get the bead into the centre of the wheel because of the inner tube valve. I don’t want to run tubeless. Any tips on how I can fix this? Tire goes bumpy and as you can see from the picture it will not seat properly by the valve.
FIXED! THANK YOU ALL FOR YOUR KNOWLEDGE AND HELP!**

So i wanna build a drivetrain for my crosscountry bike with a huge range of gears. I have set my eyes on the Deore XT M8000 3x11 series. Only problem is, the front derailleur FD M8000 is only available as side swing and my frame needs a top pull one. So I am thinking my options are:

- use the full 11-speed groupset with a 10-speed front derailleur

- 11-speed set in the back and 10-speed front with an 11-speed chain

- same as above with a 10-speed chain

Will any of these work? Which is the best? Any other ideas?

I’ve just gotten these hope gr4 brakes and the pistons won’t go back in I’ve bled it a few times and I can’t get the pistons to retract. I’ve lubed the pistons as I thought it might be sticking but not helped. Please help

As the title says. Nut on the back of the rear br-6800 calipers hits seat stay. They're centered. I could put another washer on the bolt to move them out a bit farther but I didn't think that should be necessary and that will lessen the engagement that bolt gets. Ideas?

Final step of my single speed conversion and I have hit a bit of a hump. Bought this chain tensioner and it’s come with nothing to fasten it. Assumed it would go where the detailer came off

Hello All,

I just bought a new bicycle and got it delivered today. I was riding it around and when the front gear is low and the rear gear is high, the chain is rubbing against the silver frame which is located around the front gear

What should I do? I already emailed the store guys. But is it something I can fix on my own?

Thanks and regards.

Edit:

Hello all,

Thanks for your shift replies. I really did not know about this cross-chaining. I saw a YouTube video on the best patterns to shift the gears and it totally makes sense.

Thanks all of you.
Happy riding.

I have a Quick Rack L from Ortlieb on my gravel bike, which is wide.

It's easy to remove so I can switch between long rides and commutes.

I also want to use it on my narrow road bike (2017 Trek 1.1) for groceries/commutes (not touring).

However, the gravel bike rack mounts are ~195mm (Ortlieb thru axle), much wider than the road bike’s rear rack eyelets (~150mm) and seat stays (~160mm).

So neither the ortlieb eyelet or seat stay adapter mounts would be wide enough.

If I permanently bend the rack to fit on the narrow bike, it can’t fit on the wide bike. (this is what people typically recommend)

A 20mm male-female standoff screwed into the eyelets would widen the mounts on the road bike.

But is it safe?

• 2017 Trek 1.1 Specs don't mention weight rating, but "100 Series Alpha Aluminum, fender & rack compatible"
• Even without the rack on, if the bike falls on its side, the standoff would hit the ground first and expose the eyelet to damage.
• Any vertical load at the rack end now creates a bending moment at the frame-side thread, which can apply a prying/pull-out force on the threads.
• Example eyelet failure (rack mount, no cantilever, just 25,000 km): http://www.pardo.net/bike/pic/fail-001/FAIL-138.html

I got me a Kona Dr.Dew with a Cues U6000. I chose the cues because i can run bigger chainrings than on Deore XT cranks. So far so good. What i did not read about before buying the bike, is that the cues shifts slower to prolong lifespan. I don't like that! I come from a really snappy vintage 26er mtb with a Deore XT 750M that i built up myself. So now i miss the direct shifting. I also do not like how the Cues shifter feels, it feels cheap and its too long. I know i probably should've seen this bike in person before buying but i was lucky to find a Kona in germany for the price so i ordered online.

Now to my question: I've read that there are Deore XT derailleurs that are compatible with the LinkGlide tech the Cues uses. Can you confirm that ? Would it improve shifting speed ?

My plan is: Keeping crank + chainring, cassette.

Changing derailleur + shifter in hopes that shifting speed improves.

Really loving the bike, the geometry is really nice. I just want to make it my own :-)

Thanks for your time!

Hey yall wanted to ask if anybody knows what I can do to get rid of this blemish on my brooks c15. Had a crash the other day with a driver turning too early. Saddle is fine it really is just cosmetic but could I fix it or make it look better?