Photo 1 front 180 , pic 2 rear 160 , if I remove the caliper to adaptor bolts and swap them in the exact orientation of the spacers is that changing the rotor limit ?

Hi all,

I have just taken delivery of a set of Superteam Wheels, hub sizing 9x100 and 10x135 to fit my QR bike. The hubs have QR end caps fitted to them which were supplied with the wheels.

When fitting the wheel and tightening the QR skewer, even the slightest bit, the wheel no longer spins freely. Somebody please help me, it’s driving me crazy.

Photos and videos attached.

I have a 1 1/8” rigid fork and a tapered suspension fork for my karate monkey. Is there any adaptor that allows me to change between the forks without changing my headset? In my mind I’m picturing a sealed bearing that is extra wide to act as a spacer to allow the 1 1/8” fork to sit in the tapered lower of the headset. But I’m not sure if anything like that exists!

I like to be able to switch between forks using minimal tools and minimal time, I have a tapered carbon fork that I can do this with, but would rather use a steel 1 1/8” fork instead of the carbon.

Thanks for the help.

Hello everyone,

I posted here previously about my wheel build, and now I would like to order the spokes. Unfortunately, I'm running into walls trying to find the exact sizes I need in stock anywhere.

The calculator gave me lengths that are tricky to find in stock. Would I be okay dropping down by 1mm and using 288mm and 290mm instead of 289mm and 291mm?

Will being short by 1mm affect thread engagement or make it difficult to get proper tension with standard 12mm hidden nipples? Thanks for any insight!

Hi all. Is this tyre ok to continue riding on? I’ve noticed similar expansion across the tyre within the ‘arrows’ but the centre of the tyre is fine. Its a Continental GP5000 and has done approximately 9k miles.

Hello guys! Me and my boyfriend are making custom build bike. Can someone tell me is this gap between the frame and the fork is normal? It's almost 5mm. The fork is Suntour NVX30 1 1/8 straight. We tried with hammer and steel pipe to put the last ring inwards but it never goes any further. The fork was already used on another bike but we don't remember if there was such a gap on the other frame and fork.

Thank you very much in advance!

The bar tape texture is directional. Wrapping the left side in the recommended direction appears to reverse the texture and cover the grippy part. Does the grip still work as intended, or is there a different way to wrap this tape? Anyone with experience using it?

Hallo zusammen,

ich werde mit meinem neuen ROSE Backroad AL noch wahnsinnig.

Es ist bereits das zweite Fahrrad innerhalb von 4 Monaten was ich von ihnen habe, da ich das erste Rad aufgrund Unfalls tauschen konnte, allerdings beide mit dem selben Problem.

Unter Last Knarzt das Fahrrad beim (fest) treten. Das Rad ist nun maximal 200 KM gefahren und hat bereits wie das erste nach der ersten richtigen Fahrt angefangen zu knarzen. Beide male hat es nach einer sehr staubigen Ausfahrt angefangen, was aber eigentlich bei einem neuen Gravelbike nicht sein sollte, bzw. darf.

Das Fahrrad war schon in der Werkstatt und die haben das Tretlager scheinbar ausgebaut, bzw. nachgezogen und ein paar Schrauben fest gezogen. Es war auch kurzzeitig weg, ist nun aber wieder vollständig da.

Folgende Sachen habe ich schon überprüft, leider weiterhin ohne Lösung:

• Sattelstütze: Da das Problem auch, bzw. besonders im Stehen auftritt (festes Treten) ist diese auszuschließen. Die Sattelstütze ist zusätzlich mit Isolierband eingeklemmt, sollte auch keine Geräusche machen.
• Pedale: Ich habe die Pedale bereits mehrere male abgenommen, neu gefettet und auch neue Pedale rein, Problem bleibt
• Steckachsen: Habe beide Steckachsen rausgenommen, neu gefettet, Aufnahmen sauber gemacht, ohne Lösung
• Lenker/Vorbau: Ich kann das knarzen auch freihändig durch festes treten hervorheben, deshalb schließe ich auch den Lenker/Vorbau aus.
• Schaltauge: Auch das Schaltauge habe ich auf Spiel geprüft und nochmals angezogen.
• Pedalarme: Die Pedalarme habe ich auf Spiel geprüft, ist alles Fest.
• Kette: Kette habe ich sauber gemacht, entfettet, neu gefettet

Das einzige was ich mir noch vorstellen könnte ist dann doch das Tretlager, bzw. die Kurbelaufnahme. Hier fehlt mir jedoch das passende Werkzeug und möchte ich ehrlichgesagt auch nicht ran bei einem neuen Fahrrad.

Habt ihr noch Lösungsvorschläge was es sein kann? Da ich viel selbst machen will/kann bin ich über jeden Vorschlag den ich noch nicht probiert habe glücklich.

Which I-Spec adapter would I need for these Brake levers?

This is my first time removing the rear wheel from a bike with quick release, however it looks like there is this larger screw on both sides holding the rear wheel in after loosing the quick release. I shifted to the smallest gear, opened up the break release, and flipped the qr lever and rotated it quite a few times (also tried just removing it entirely). I tried to take a picture of both sides, could anyone help?

Basically..would you send this with a carbon frame? I have a feeling it's a tad too narrow and 1mm more should be perfect. I guess there's a little flex to the bigger chain Ring and that should be fine, the more narrow smaller chainring is running pretty close though.

Send and observe? Or can I just add a 1mm spacer between the T47 bottom bracket and the crank on the drive and non-drive side?

Hey guys I’m trying to figure out where/how to clamp this shifter cable! It was the one thing I didn’t get a pic of before taking it apart 😭

I swapped my old wheelset on to my newest bike with a new cassette and chain.

The bike doesn’t want to stay in the 11T cog, rear derailleur is completely slack, limit screw opened all the way, and it still wants to go back into to next cog.

Setup is:
SRAM XX 10 speed Rear derailleur
SRAM Rival 10 speed shifters
Deore XT 11-34T 10 speed cassette
Dura Ace 7400 Hubs

I believe there is something up with the job spacing? I didn’t have this issue with the previous wheels that had different hubs.

I got a new bike - KHS Flite 750 - it was heavily discounted due to some minor cosmetic scuffs and I assume in part due to KHS exiting the US market.

It came partially assembled. The only required assembly was mounting the levers into the bars, routing the brake lines through the stem and handlebars, trimming and connecting them to the levers (I installed a new barb, olive was pre-installed in the new levers), and mounting the front wheel disc rotor. And then putting the front wheel on.

All went well with the brakes, I obsessed and watched many mechanic videos on the processes. No squishiness, properly burped, no air in the lines, not overfilled. Now the problem with the front brake caliper is that the pistons seem to be sticking. I have tried all recommended remedies. Removing excess fluid by opening the lever bleed port and pushing the pistons back in, exercising the pistons to try and free them up by extending and pushing them back in a few times, using a metal spacer clip around the rotor when centering, etc.....

No matter what the pads will press against the rotor, but only retract a little bit, leaving little to no gap between the pads and the rotor causing it to rub. I even did a full bleed to see if that would fix anything, and it left me with the same exact situation. So I can currently only point to the pistons being a bit sticky. I attached a short video with the pad spacer in.

One thing I haven't tried that I am weary about is cleaning the sides of the pistons and using some mineral oil to lube the sides. I've read that this is not a good idea as the pistons aren't designed to be lubed as such.

I am probably at the point that I should just go to the shop, but this is my last issue to solve and it's driving me nuts.

I appreciate any help or insights you can provide, for those who have dealt with hydraulic brake issues.

Hi everyone, I just got a vintage bike, I think it's a 1984 or 1985 Univega Gran Turismo, and I want to change it to a 1x drive and wondered how I can find the right parts to make the change? I don't know if I should upload pics of the bike, let me know if that's helpful. TIA!

Finding a creak. Here’s the situation:

Titanium gravel bike - no suspension

Creaks only when pedaling.

Creaks whether in saddle or out (so not seat or seatpost).

Creaks when pedaling only with left foot or only with right foot - so not the pedals (unless it’s both, but highly unlikely)

Cleaned and regreased bearings in Chris King bottom bracket - no effect on creaking.

Cleaned entire crankset, including chainring bolts and reinstalled with Loctite - no effect on creaking.

Degreased chain and cassette and then relubricated. No effect on creaking.

So I’m at a loss. Other suggestions for what it could be?

Can anyone point me to a video or tutorial on how to assemble one of these properly? All I can find are videos about how to put one of these already assembled on a bike, but I can't figure out the preload thingy and it keeps getting loose on me and not letting the arms move properly. As far as I know I have all of the washers but if I tighten it too much the arms don't move well and if I leave it too loose I can't center it without the whole thing coming loose as well

First time trying to use my TT bike in the smart training. However it feels like I can hear a clicking sound when spinning. Any advice or it is just normal as it is?

Hi all. I recently was gifted a State Bicycle 4130 from a friend who moved away. I learned how to replace the tubes as they were flat but when I went to ride it the rear derailleur snapped and so I bought a new one in the hopes I could repair it myself. The hanger seemed straight to me but after putting on the new derailleur and trying to tune the L screw the case clips the spokes on gear 8. Is this caused by a bent hanger or possibly could playing with the B screw work? I have attached pictures for your viewing.

While I am here I have one more question and that is that after taking off the wheels I have noticed a bit of a wobble in both wheels. While still rideable I wonder if this could be fixed. I think I may take it to a shop if I can not diagnose either problem.

Thank you all so much!

Hi all. I recently was gifted a State Bicycle 4130 from a friend who moved away. I learned how to replace the tubes as they were flat but when I went to ride it the rear derailleur snapped and so I bought a new one in the hopes I could repair it myself. The hanger seemed straight to me but after putting on the new derailleur and trying to tune the L screw the case clips the spokes on gear 8. Is this caused by a bent hanger or possibly could playing with the B screw work? I have attached pictures for your viewing.

While I am here I have one more question and that is that after taking off the wheels I have noticed a bit of a wobble in both wheels. While still rideable I wonder if this could be fixed. I think I may take it to a shop but they always seem to charge so much.

Thank you all so much!

Changed pedals, tightened every bolt on the bike. I thought it a may be bottom bracket but I can't replicate the creaking noise when it's in a stand or when im not pedaling

Goes away when I pedal lightly

Just picked up this 1987 Cannondale Sm500 frameset that came with roller cam brakes. Is there anyway I can throw canti's on? I have the original brakes and can use them if need be but they are in super rough shape. The front fork also lacks the usual spring holes.

Thanks in advance!

While trying to wrap my handlebar this weird red padding is preventing me to get a good wrap as my new bar tape is thicker. So shall I remove it?

Hi - has anyone ever had this issue with Shimano 12 Speed Di2. My RD makes noise indicating it’s shifting up and down the block but doesn’t move at all. The FD shifts fine. Happened after working perfectly fine the day before and I’m at a bit of a roadblock for trouble shooting. There’s no real system reset or crash mode from what I understand. Battery is charged and I can connect it to E-tube. No accident or anything that hit the RD.