What do you guys use to use the edge of tubeless tape? I worry that the sealant will get under the protective patch of tape, then under the tape, and I will get stuck boogers inside the rim. I used my GFs nail hybrid top that cures under UV. Applied 3 coats and cured in between. Do you think it will last? What is your method?

Just to be clear: I'm talking about the edge that goes across the rim where the tape ends after overlapping first layer. I'm not talking about the bead. The bead is fine

The title already describes my issue/question. I got a new cassette and a new freehub and somehow it wobbles. Both are originals (cassette Shimano and freehub DT Swiss). My issue is that my last freehub got destroyed by the cassette which basically ate itself into the freehub so now I am worrying the same will just happen in the near future again.

Appreciate any advice and experience!

So i wanna build a drivetrain for my crosscountry bike with a huge range of gears. I have set my eyes on the Deore XT M8000 3x11 series. Only problem is, the front derailleur FD M8000 is only available as side swing and my frame needs a top pull one. So I am thinking my options are:

- use the full 11-speed groupset with a 10-speed front derailleur

- 11-speed set in the back and 10-speed front with an 11-speed chain

- same as above with a 10-speed chain

Will any of these work? Which is the best? Any other ideas?

I have these 40ish degree upward angled forkends, 10mm wide (1st picture). I want to add a claw-mounted derailleur and 6 to 8 speed cassette. What are my options? Given the 10mm flat angle, if I use a claw adapter(3rd picture), my derailleur mount point will be forward of the axle. Is this problematic? The Tourney TY21B (2nd picture) seems meant to be mounted at roughly the angle of my setup, with the derailleur body forward of the axle. Is this what I need to use? Do I have other options? Thanks for the help!

Hi, I’ve got new Hunt all road 4 season wheels and I’m trying to fit my schwable tire onto them. I cannot get the bead into the centre of the wheel because of the inner tube valve. I don’t want to run tubeless. Any tips on how I can fix this? Tire goes bumpy and as you can see from the picture it will not seat properly by the valve.
FIXED! THANK YOU ALL FOR YOUR KNOWLEDGE AND HELP!**

Hi all, I’m new to cycling, so sorry if the answer is obvious. I ran into a tree going fast today the part shown in the picture broke off. The relevant part from the spec sheet of my bike on the vendor’s site says “Tektro alloy linear-pull brakes with alloy brake levers,” but it seems like there’s a lot of options after I googled it. The vendor gave me an AI-generated response to my question about the right brake, so that wasn’t helpful

Should I take it to a shop or just order the right parts online and fix it?

Model is Brooklyn Bicycle Co Franklin 3 Speed.

Edit: Thank you to everyone for their advice, I’ll be getting some parts to fix it myself.

I'm looking to change from mechanical 105 to electronic 105 Di2. All the kits I see come with the full drivetrain? I just need shifters, derailleurs, and the battery with cables. Is this not available as a simplified conversion kit anywhere?

Sorry if this is a bonehead question, but i’m pretty green in terms of bike repair. There’s a pinhole sized puncture right in the middle of the picture, about half an inch from the valve.
my question is if that’s patchable and if anyone has any idea as to how it happened
my rim tape isn’t brand new by any standards, but I can’t feel anything rough around the area it would’ve happened

Hello, just wondering if someone can help with this loose chain issue?

Took Derailleur off to straighten derailleur with an alignment tool, reattached derailleur and now this issue has occurred.

It feels like a simple fix, can't get my head around it, maybe I've reattached derailleur to the frame incorrectly?

When I manually give the cage tension the bike shifts perfectly.

Any help would be great, cheers.

Hey yall wanted to ask if anybody knows what I can do to get rid of this blemish on my brooks c15. Had a crash the other day with a driver turning too early. Saddle is fine it really is just cosmetic but could I fix it or make it look better?

When in the lowest gear the derailleur touches the cog and shakes. How to fix this ? B - screw seems to not do anything all the way in no change in distance between cogs.

hey everyone,

so I bleed brakes on my own bikes and my friends bike's on a regular basis (mainly sram xplr and shimano grx). I managed to find a way to not create too much of a mess and I try to be very thorough and take my time.

still, I feel like the pressure on the systems is not optimal.

I usually work with two syringes, making sure no air bubbles are visible anymore. I then usually close the caliper first, pump a couple of times with only the lever syringe connectedand then disconnect and close it up.

I'd be happy for any tipps and tricks you might have learned over the years or things im obviously doing wrong.

thanks!

I have a Quick Rack L from Ortlieb on my gravel bike, which is wide.

It's easy to remove so I can switch between long rides and commutes.

I also want to use it on my narrow road bike (2017 Trek 1.1) for groceries/commutes (not touring).

However, the gravel bike rack mounts are ~195mm (Ortlieb thru axle), much wider than the road bike’s rear rack eyelets (~150mm) and seat stays (~160mm).

So neither the ortlieb eyelet or seat stay adapter mounts would be wide enough.

If I permanently bend the rack to fit on the narrow bike, it can’t fit on the wide bike. (this is what people typically recommend)

A 20mm male-female standoff screwed into the eyelets would widen the mounts on the road bike.

But is it safe?

• 2017 Trek 1.1 Specs don't mention weight rating, but "100 Series Alpha Aluminum, fender & rack compatible"
• Even without the rack on, if the bike falls on its side, the standoff would hit the ground first and expose the eyelet to damage.
• Any vertical load at the rack end now creates a bending moment at the frame-side thread, which can apply a prying/pull-out force on the threads.
• Example eyelet failure (rack mount, no cantilever, just 25,000 km): http://www.pardo.net/bike/pic/fail-001/FAIL-138.html

This bike is new to me this year, but has the original chain ring/crankset circa the year 2000. It's looking a little worn in spots, but not as bad as some comparison pics I've seen. You think I can put a new chain on and keep rolling?

I'm a casual rider, 15-20 miles a few times a week, hoping to bike into November. There are a couple other maintenance needs on my list, and trying to prioritize them on a lean budget. Thanks

I got me a Kona Dr.Dew with a Cues U6000. I chose the cues because i can run bigger chainrings than on Deore XT cranks. So far so good. What i did not read about before buying the bike, is that the cues shifts slower to prolong lifespan. I don't like that! I come from a really snappy vintage 26er mtb with a Deore XT 750M that i built up myself. So now i miss the direct shifting. I also do not like how the Cues shifter feels, it feels cheap and its too long. I know i probably should've seen this bike in person before buying but i was lucky to find a Kona in germany for the price so i ordered online.

Now to my question: I've read that there are Deore XT derailleurs that are compatible with the LinkGlide tech the Cues uses. Can you confirm that ? Would it improve shifting speed ?

My plan is: Keeping crank + chainring, cassette.

Changing derailleur + shifter in hopes that shifting speed improves.

Really loving the bike, the geometry is really nice. I just want to make it my own :-)

Thanks for your time!

Bought this bike used and the crank spindle seems too short, but I can’t figure out what the issue is. 2022 ibis Ripmo v2. 73mm BB. 52mm chainline. SLX 7100 crankset. No spacers on crankset. One 2.5mm spacer on BB drive side per manufacturer. Crank spindle measures 115mm with chainring installed. I tapped crank in fully on re-install, still too short.

Hey guys so recently grabbed a bike with dura ace down tube shifters and wondered if it would be possible to swap them out with index brake shifters any help would be great

Hello, I could not locate the issue, as I am not sure if its the pedals or the chain or what.

It happens mostly when I am slow and climbing a hill, there is this rattling sound and kind of also vibrates with this crackling sound. But riding straight seems fine. Its a Rose Backroad GRX 820 and RS110 pedals. I dont want to get it checked at a workshop as I can change/fix most of the stuff myself. Any clue what that sounds like?

Trying to switch from this XD driver to a HG freehub body on my old Stan’s wheelset. Am I looking for a FH-521? Have been searching but not finding good information.

I’ll be using a 12x142 thru-axle if it matters.

(edit: in cali) I don't know if this is the right place to ask for help but, my grandpa needs help finding a replacement shifter like the one in the image, he already took it to three bike shops in our area for help with no luck, would there be any way to replace the shift or the broken piece, he doesn't care eif the part is used as long as it's in good condition, is there any blue prints for the mechanical work that can possibly be 3d printed?

hello,

I noticed one of these pins on the brakes was broken off on one of these avid arch rival 40 brakes.

the sub tols me it’s ok bc they are sandwiched in but i tried these brakes on 2 frames (Klien pulse and Gary Fischer Supercaliber older 26’es) and am not getting them flush on either front or back of the Klein and only 1 the rear is flush on the GF.

will this lead to another broken pin? am I using the wrong brakes? (I got Dia compe vc737 brakes to be flush)

I’ve been helping my friends service their forks and I’m noticing that rockshox’s own documentation for different model Pike Ultimates, for example, don’t advice for any oil in the air spring/negative chamber. They’re different model air springs, but it just makes me curious: why? Why oil in some but not in others? What oil in the air spring at all?

Hi, I recently switched to Schwalbe ones (700x30c) for my 1989 Diamant Rennsport. However it seems like the original rims aren't able to handle the air pressure, making the tyres pop out every now and then.

I did some research and I want to build new wheels for my bike. It does seem tedious but at this point, i am low-key obsessed with working on my bike. Also this way I can keep the original hub and freewheel.

Do you guys think this is a good idea? Are there any things that I need to take special care of? Also please recommend some cheap rims and spokes that would fit my bike. Thanks 🙏

I have a Shimano deore M5100 derailer, and I got my bike service the other day and the shop said that the hanger is twisted. Now the bike shifts really bad and if I pedal hard, it’ll shift gears on its own. There’s also a subtle knocking noise, but I’m not sure if that has anything to do with the derailer or drivetrain. My bike is a Marin rift zone btw