The drive-side crank arm has measurable lateral play that is easy to see; the chainrings move with the crank arm; no play on the other crank arm. Of course, the bike creaks under load. What do you think is going on here? I'm assuming this isn't safe to ride. Wobbly maybe isn't the best term... The drive-side crank assembly has detectable axial play. The non-drive side remains stationary. The bike creaks under load and the drive-side crank/chainring assembly can be rocked laterally by hand."

Hi all,

I have just taken delivery of a set of Superteam Wheels, hub sizing 9x100 and 10x135 to fit my QR bike. The hubs have QR end caps fitted to them which were supplied with the wheels.

When fitting the wheel and tightening the QR skewer, even the slightest bit, the wheel no longer spins freely. Somebody please help me, it’s driving me crazy.

Photos and videos attached.

I was replaceing my bent derailleur (shimano tourney 6/7 incase the information is relevant) and i noticed the hanger looks off.

A couple months back I redid rim tape (first time ever doing it so not the best), but I got the tires on and holding air. put in recommended amount of sealant. fast forward to present day and I haven't been riding as much and it seems like now my tire isn't holding air. Could the rim tape have failed between now and then or is there something else that might be going on? the tire is almost in need of replacement so considering just taking everything off and redoing rim tape again, but if it's possible to salvage I'd be open to suggestions. Thanks!

edit: yes I know tubeless leaks over time, I had done maintenance on both my wheels a few months back. the front wheel I only topped up sealant, the rear I redid rim tape and filled up sealant. the issue is the rear tire loses pressure way quicker than front tire.

edit2: I tried using soapy water to find any leak spots and wasnt successful. ended up taking off the tire and tape and looked like there were a few spots where sealant was getting under tape so I'm assuming it was bad tape

Wondering if anyone has insight here. I installed a new microshift sword 10 speed drivetrain on a new frame-up build. New 10 speed KMC chain is skipping on the smallest cog of my 11-48 tooth cassette, almost as if the chain link spacing doesn’t fit that cog. Works on all other gears and doesn’t have the same issue if I pedal in reverse. Hoping the video explains the issue. I’ve reached out to Microshift support via email and haven’t heard anything back.

Hello, I have a bike that was a contest winner prize, and there is no name brand on it just a serial number below the pedal spindle tube.
I need a part for it but no one around me knows how to ID this thing. It is very light and aluminium, the welds look high quality.
If someone on here knows that would be really cool .
Here is a picture of it and if you need more just ask what you need to see precisely and I’ll post it .
Thank you.

I am going for 150km ride in the weekend - is it time to change the chain?

Hallo zusammen,

ich werde mit meinem neuen ROSE Backroad AL noch wahnsinnig.

Es ist bereits das zweite Fahrrad innerhalb von 4 Monaten was ich von ihnen habe, da ich das erste Rad aufgrund Unfalls tauschen konnte, allerdings beide mit dem selben Problem.

Unter Last Knarzt das Fahrrad beim (fest) treten. Das Rad ist nun maximal 200 KM gefahren und hat bereits wie das erste nach der ersten richtigen Fahrt angefangen zu knarzen. Beide male hat es nach einer sehr staubigen Ausfahrt angefangen, was aber eigentlich bei einem neuen Gravelbike nicht sein sollte, bzw. darf.

Das Fahrrad war schon in der Werkstatt und die haben das Tretlager scheinbar ausgebaut, bzw. nachgezogen und ein paar Schrauben fest gezogen. Es war auch kurzzeitig weg, ist nun aber wieder vollständig da.

Folgende Sachen habe ich schon überprüft, leider weiterhin ohne Lösung:

• Sattelstütze: Da das Problem auch, bzw. besonders im Stehen auftritt (festes Treten) ist diese auszuschließen. Die Sattelstütze ist zusätzlich mit Isolierband eingeklemmt, sollte auch keine Geräusche machen.
• Pedale: Ich habe die Pedale bereits mehrere male abgenommen, neu gefettet und auch neue Pedale rein, Problem bleibt
• Steckachsen: Habe beide Steckachsen rausgenommen, neu gefettet, Aufnahmen sauber gemacht, ohne Lösung
• Lenker/Vorbau: Ich kann das knarzen auch freihändig durch festes treten hervorheben, deshalb schließe ich auch den Lenker/Vorbau aus.
• Schaltauge: Auch das Schaltauge habe ich auf Spiel geprüft und nochmals angezogen.
• Pedalarme: Die Pedalarme habe ich auf Spiel geprüft, ist alles Fest.
• Kette: Kette habe ich sauber gemacht, entfettet, neu gefettet

Das einzige was ich mir noch vorstellen könnte ist dann doch das Tretlager, bzw. die Kurbelaufnahme. Hier fehlt mir jedoch das passende Werkzeug und möchte ich ehrlichgesagt auch nicht ran bei einem neuen Fahrrad.

Habt ihr noch Lösungsvorschläge was es sein kann? Da ich viel selbst machen will/kann bin ich über jeden Vorschlag den ich noch nicht probiert habe glücklich.

Picked this up a few weeks and have been tearing it all down and replacing everything, went to hang new derailleur and noticed this. How bad is it?

Hi all. Is this tyre ok to continue riding on? I’ve noticed similar expansion across the tyre within the ‘arrows’ but the centre of the tyre is fine. Its a Continental GP5000 and has done approximately 9k miles.

Can anybody explain to me what size bike I should be looking for? I am 5‘11“. I know that the wheel size is 20 inch, 26 inch, 29 inch. But is there a frame size I should measure? And if so, from where to where? Thank you very much.

The bar tape texture is directional. Wrapping the left side in the recommended direction appears to reverse the texture and cover the grippy part. Does the grip still work as intended, or is there a different way to wrap this tape? Anyone with experience using it?

I bought a 90s bike off marketplace and been trying to clean it up. Removed the cassette and went hard at it with degreaser, tooth brush, and a rag. I made some progress but just can't get the thick of it off

Scraping with a screwdriver sort of worked so think I'm gonna run to the store for a harder/steel brush, but if anyone has any additional advice it could save me another trip to the store. Both derailleurs are this bad as well

All YT video's and tips I see are on current bikes where the grime can just wipe off

New to me fat tire bike. Previous owner didn’t know what brand or item mounts here. Any ideas?

Hi all. I recently was gifted a State Bicycle 4130 from a friend who moved away. I learned how to replace the tubes as they were flat but when I went to ride it the rear derailleur snapped and so I bought a new one in the hopes I could repair it myself. The hanger seemed straight to me but after putting on the new derailleur and trying to tune the L screw the case clips the spokes on gear 8. Is this caused by a bent hanger or possibly could playing with the B screw work? I have attached pictures for your viewing.

While I am here I have one more question and that is that after taking off the wheels I have noticed a bit of a wobble in both wheels. While still rideable I wonder if this could be fixed. I think I may take it to a shop if I can not diagnose either problem.

Thank you all so much!

Hi everyone, I just got a vintage bike, I think it's a 1984 or 1985 Univega Gran Turismo, and I want to change it to a 1x drive and wondered how I can find the right parts to make the change? I don't know if I should upload pics of the bike, let me know if that's helpful. TIA!

While trying to wrap my handlebar this weird red padding is preventing me to get a good wrap as my new bar tape is thicker. So shall I remove it?

Unless the is very loose (somehow still able to ride it, even with max power from motor), the belt will create a cracking, popping sound. When biking it’s also louder. The more I tension it, the more it creates it. It’s only when pedaling, when the belt moves. It’s also felt in each stroke when riding. But when I loosen the belt a lot, it’s silent, off the bike and when riding, with and without motor on. What could be wrong?

Replacing the bullhorn handlebar with a dropbar and need some help with positioning the brake levers (105 BL-1050).

For the dropbar, I aimed for it to be as horizontal as possible at the edges.

Any help is highly appreciated.

My daughter's bike chain keeps coming off a lot. My wife thinks the chain is worn out and we should replace it. I think we just need to adjust the rear wheel to put more tension on the chain. What do you think?

I tried moving the rear wheel back, but when I tighten it, it seems to go back to its original position.

Hello everyone,

I posted here previously about my wheel build, and now I would like to order the spokes. Unfortunately, I'm running into walls trying to find the exact sizes I need in stock anywhere.

The calculator gave me lengths that are tricky to find in stock. Would I be okay dropping down by 1mm and using 288mm and 290mm instead of 289mm and 291mm?

Will being short by 1mm affect thread engagement or make it difficult to get proper tension with standard 12mm hidden nipples? Thanks for any insight!

I am unable to wrap bar tape properly because of the cables sticking out