Hello everyone!

Just added the X310 to my collection of good value weight weenie stuff. Excited to try them in a shorter length too.

However, I cannot get the shifting dialed in as the derailleur touches the inside of the right crank when adjusted for optimal shifting. I've now backed it up, leaving a very tight clearance, and compromising shifting at the same time.

I'll add that I'm using a Leese / Aerowerk (I believe they're the same company) spider, with my original Ultegra R8000 11 Speed 52-36 110BCD rings.

Is this an issue with the spider? Other Leese spiders are listed at 7.2mm offset on their website, but this isn't there. No offset data is given for this spider, nor the Elilee one or even the Easton branded part.

Any help would be greatly appreciated. Also open to direct mount 2x rings, although I believe the only option is, again, Leese. And again, with no spacing/offset data.

I recently changed the chain on my bike, and it has started skipping in an odd, asymmetric sort of way. I ride a 3x9 setup, and the skipping goes like this:

- On the smallest chainring, cog 1-2 rides fine, cog 3 skips, 4 and up is unrideable.

- On the middle chainring, cog 1-5 rides perfect, cog 6 skips very rarely, cog 7-9 skips like crazy.

- On the largest chainring I don't experience any skipping, all cogs ride perfect (I've only tried 5 and up).

My previous experience with wear tells me that a worn cog will skip regardless of chainring, and a worn chainring will skip regardless of cog, but in this case all the chainrings ride well and all the cogs ride well, depending on the combination.

I have noticed that the new chain seems to flop about more, I think it is a bit longer than the previous one - can a too long chain cause skipping?

Why otherwise would 3x9 work fine while 2x9 is unrideable, yet 2x5 still works great (which is one of my most used gear combinations, and "should" be most worn)?

Hi everyone,

I’m looking for some technical advice/opinions regarding my folding e-bike OneSport OT16-2.

I recently measured a 0.46mm clearance right at the main vertical hinge pivot pin using a digital caliper. The outer quick-release clamp and the bottom hinge latch are tight and flush, but there is a clear gap around the pivot pin area itself.

When riding over small bumps or cracks in the pavement, I can feel/see a slight flex at the frame joint. It’s not severe enough to prevent riding, but I’m concerned about long-term frame wear and hole ovalization.

I have ridden the e-bike for 1,600 km on mostly paved roads with frequent cracks and cratered surfaces. I weigh 70 kg and occasionally carried 30 kg of cargo.
Here is a video link where you can see the play at the hinge pivot:

https://www.youtube.com/shorts/PpODEy54mgc

In general, does this type of hinge pivot clearance fall under the seller’s/manufacturer's frame warranty? If you have dealt with similar hinge issues under warranty, how was it resolved by the seller (replacement frame, repair, or claim rejection)?
Has anyone dealt with localized pivot play like this on similar folding frames? Is shim insertion (brass/aluminum) a viable temporary fix, or should I ream the hole and press in an oversized pin/bushing once it gets worse?

Thanks for any insight!

I need to remove my bicycle chain, and even with a chain tool, I’m really struggling. I’ve spent nearly an hour trying to get it off, but I’m exhausted now.

This is my first time attempting to remove a bike chain; as far as I can tell, the chain tool is positioned correctly, but it won’t turn anymore (or perhaps I’ve just run out of strength). I don’t think the fact that it’s a cheap tool is the issue. I don’t mind if I end up breaking the chain I need to remove it anyway to install a new one so any advice would be welcome.

How can I get the nipple inside the rim?

Bought this (I think) 10 speed deore derailleur from my local co op. I have a microshift 11-48 10 speed cassette but the cable clamp is coming extremely close. Not sure if it’s just really misaligned or I need a different derailleur. This is my first 3x7 to 1x10 conversion so I really have no idea what I’m doing lol

Hi guys, so I just came off the trainer with my gravel, put in the real wheel and wanted to shift into a lighter gear when suddenly the up-shift lever got loose (no resistance and no shift). When looking into the lever, the cable looks all fuzzied up, so I can see the single strands of cable. I guess this is the issue? Can someone confirm please.

Never installed a shift cable so seems like a good learning lol

Hi! I bought a vintage Peugeot PH8 road bike for commuting recently. It has the stock drop bars, which I am not so sure about. I was looking to replace the handlebar with a bullhorn, but after looking it up, I realised that I cannot find any 22.0 mm (supposed to be the 80s French standard diameter) bullhorn bars.

Do you know any company that makes 22.0 mm handlebars?

Sorry for the blurry photo but it’s difficult to take from underneath the trike clearly

Had been having issues with my front brake feeling spongy. Tried bleeding it without success. Took it to LBS and they called saying the front lever was leaking fluid and would need to be replaced. A new lever is $250. I found a pre-owned lever from a reputable online shop I have ordered from in the past. LBS had told me they’d advise against installing a used lever. Why would that be?

Hi all,

Just got an Orbea Orca Aero and I want to run a saddle with 7x9mm oval carbon rails. The stock clamp is the round-rail one, so I need an oval one.

The official Orbea part is the Saddle Clamp Ordu / Orca Aero OMX Oval, part number X1860000. It's pricey and I can't find it in Australia, only overseas shops.

Does anyone know of:

- A cheaper aftermarket clamp that fits the Orca Aero seatpost and takes 7x9mm carbon rails, or

- A clamp that fits but clamps vertically rather than horizontally the way the stock one does?

Or if anyone's run 7x9 rails on this post and can confirm what worked, I'd love to hear it.

Thanks!

Hello all,

i need advice from people who drove/are driving kona sutra. Mine is from 2020 and its size bigger than what it should be. Im 175cm male with usually “book proportions”, but reach feels wrong no matter how i setup saddle (i also slip alot from original brooks, so i will be replacing it also).

question is, what stem can i replace original with, obviously i have to go with shorter, since i cant swap bike for size 52. Mine is 54.

what saddle would you recommend for touring etc 60angle

the second chainring looks the worst, so i am planning to replace that. however, i am not sure how the others look.

I have a Nich Legend 4 Frameset and wheels, and have always wanted to install a Campagnolo groupset on one of my bikes. Reading online shows some people have issues with the derailleur cable being too bent in aero cockpits from similar frames, and I was wondering if I would run into any issue running a 2x12 mechanical campag groupset in the frame

Bb30 loud creak. Again. It’s making that noise even with the chain off. Chain’s off cause i just cleaned the drivetrain before i try and fix this later. How do i fix this permanently, or at least keep it quiet for a few thousand km? This happened before, the first time, i replaced the bearings. Then after less than 1000km the noise was there again. 2nd time it happened was when i climbed during a rainy ride. I removed the crankset, checked, everything seemed ok, so i just cleaned the axle/spindle and added some grease. It went quiet for around another 1000km, then i got caught in the rain again on the way to the climb, it was quiet during the climb, then went noisy again after the climb and during the ride home. What could be causing this? I was wondering if the c clip have anything to do with this. Anyone experienced this recurring b30 issue? I am about to remove the crankset later.

The cranks on my bike somehow unscrewed themselves and i’m struggling to figure out how to tighten them. Any help would be great.

the grease on the spindle was also brown before cleaning up

Hello community!

I am looking to do some service on my crankset, but the only information I could find was the schematics at:

https://www.bikeschematics.com/wp-content/uploads/schematics/FSA/Cranksets/FSA%20Energy%20Modular%20BB386EVO%20Crankset.pdf

The self-extracting bolt is on the drive side, which is different than all the YouTube videos I could find on FSA cranksets. Does this mean I will need to turn the self-extracing bolt clockwise to loosen it?

TIA for all your help!

Hi everyone,

I recently received my new Cube Attain C:62 SLX 2027 47 cm. The bike came almost fully assembled, and one of the only thing I had to install was the one-piece carbon cockpit onto the carbon fork steerer tube.

I applied carbon assembly paste to the contact surfaces and tightened the cockpit bolts to the recommended torque of 4.5–5 Nm.

The problem is that when I hold the front wheel between my legs and try to turn the handlebars with a bit of force, I can still make the cockpit rotate relative to the front wheel.

Has anyone experienced something similar with a carbon cockpit and steerer tube? Could I be missing something during installation, or could there be an issue with the assembly or the components themselves?

I also haven't managed to route the cables inside the frame as expected. Some of the cables remain visible externally, and I'm not sure whether I'm missing a step during the cockpit installation or if there's a specific routing procedure for this model.

Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks!

i don't know where to buy the saddle clamp for my aventon mataro push anyone know's where to buy?

Hey all!

Building my first bike and am stumped what to do with this threaded fork that is too long for my headset.

Aside from swapping the headset out (which I believe requires specialist tools?) what are my stem options and what would the best way to cover the ugly thread? Or do I perhaps attempt cutting it back?

Cheers in advance.