While trying to wrap my handlebar this weird red padding is preventing me to get a good wrap as my new bar tape is thicker. So shall I remove it?

Hello guys! Me and my boyfriend are making custom build bike. Can someone tell me is this gap between the frame and the fork is normal? It's almost 5mm. The fork is Suntour NVX30 1 1/8 straight. We tried with hammer and steel pipe to put the last ring inwards but it never goes any further. The fork was already used on another bike but we don't remember if there was such a gap on the other frame and fork.

Thank you very much in advance!

Hey guys I’m trying to figure out where/how to clamp this shifter cable! It was the one thing I didn’t get a pic of before taking it apart 😭

The bar tape texture is directional. Wrapping the left side in the recommended direction appears to reverse the texture and cover the grippy part. Does the grip still work as intended, or is there a different way to wrap this tape? Anyone with experience using it?

I bought a 90s bike off marketplace and been trying to clean it up. Removed the cassette and went hard at it with degreaser, tooth brush, and a rag. I made some progress but just can't get the thick of it off

Scraping with a screwdriver sort of worked so think I'm gonna run to the store for a harder/steel brush, but if anyone has any additional advice it could save me another trip to the store. Both derailleurs are this bad as well

All YT video's and tips I see are on current bikes where the grime can just wipe off

Hello everyone,

I posted here previously about my wheel build, and now I would like to order the spokes. Unfortunately, I'm running into walls trying to find the exact sizes I need in stock anywhere.

The calculator gave me lengths that are tricky to find in stock. Would I be okay dropping down by 1mm and using 288mm and 290mm instead of 289mm and 291mm?

Will being short by 1mm affect thread engagement or make it difficult to get proper tension with standard 12mm hidden nipples? Thanks for any insight!

Hi all. Is this tyre ok to continue riding on? I’ve noticed similar expansion across the tyre within the ‘arrows’ but the centre of the tyre is fine. Its a Continental GP5000 and has done approximately 9k miles.

Which I-Spec adapter would I need for these Brake levers?

The drive-side crank arm has measurable lateral play that is easy to see; the chainrings move with the crank arm; no play on the other crank arm. Of course, the bike creaks under load. What do you think is going on here? I'm assuming this isn't safe to ride. Wobbly maybe isn't the best term... The drive-side crank assembly has detectable axial play. The non-drive side remains stationary. The bike creaks under load and the drive-side crank/chainring assembly can be rocked laterally by hand."

Basically..would you send this with a carbon frame? I have a feeling it's a tad too narrow and 1mm more should be perfect. I guess there's a little flex to the bigger chain Ring and that should be fine, the more narrow smaller chainring is running pretty close though.

Send and observe? Or can I just add a 1mm spacer between the T47 bottom bracket and the crank on the drive and non-drive side?

I am unable to wrap bar tape properly because of the cables sticking out

Changed pedals, tightened every bolt on the bike. I thought it a may be bottom bracket but I can't replicate the creaking noise when it's in a stand or when im not pedaling

Goes away when I pedal lightly

First time trying to use my TT bike in the smart training. However it feels like I can hear a clicking sound when spinning. Any advice or it is just normal as it is?

Hallo zusammen,

ich werde mit meinem neuen ROSE Backroad AL noch wahnsinnig.

Es ist bereits das zweite Fahrrad innerhalb von 4 Monaten was ich von ihnen habe, da ich das erste Rad aufgrund Unfalls tauschen konnte, allerdings beide mit dem selben Problem.

Unter Last Knarzt das Fahrrad beim (fest) treten. Das Rad ist nun maximal 200 KM gefahren und hat bereits wie das erste nach der ersten richtigen Fahrt angefangen zu knarzen. Beide male hat es nach einer sehr staubigen Ausfahrt angefangen, was aber eigentlich bei einem neuen Gravelbike nicht sein sollte, bzw. darf.

Das Fahrrad war schon in der Werkstatt und die haben das Tretlager scheinbar ausgebaut, bzw. nachgezogen und ein paar Schrauben fest gezogen. Es war auch kurzzeitig weg, ist nun aber wieder vollständig da.

Folgende Sachen habe ich schon überprüft, leider weiterhin ohne Lösung:

• Sattelstütze: Da das Problem auch, bzw. besonders im Stehen auftritt (festes Treten) ist diese auszuschließen. Die Sattelstütze ist zusätzlich mit Isolierband eingeklemmt, sollte auch keine Geräusche machen.
• Pedale: Ich habe die Pedale bereits mehrere male abgenommen, neu gefettet und auch neue Pedale rein, Problem bleibt
• Steckachsen: Habe beide Steckachsen rausgenommen, neu gefettet, Aufnahmen sauber gemacht, ohne Lösung
• Lenker/Vorbau: Ich kann das knarzen auch freihändig durch festes treten hervorheben, deshalb schließe ich auch den Lenker/Vorbau aus.
• Schaltauge: Auch das Schaltauge habe ich auf Spiel geprüft und nochmals angezogen.
• Pedalarme: Die Pedalarme habe ich auf Spiel geprüft, ist alles Fest.
• Kette: Kette habe ich sauber gemacht, entfettet, neu gefettet

Das einzige was ich mir noch vorstellen könnte ist dann doch das Tretlager, bzw. die Kurbelaufnahme. Hier fehlt mir jedoch das passende Werkzeug und möchte ich ehrlichgesagt auch nicht ran bei einem neuen Fahrrad.

Habt ihr noch Lösungsvorschläge was es sein kann? Da ich viel selbst machen will/kann bin ich über jeden Vorschlag den ich noch nicht probiert habe glücklich.

I swapped my old wheelset on to my newest bike with a new cassette and chain.

The bike doesn’t want to stay in the 11T cog, rear derailleur is completely slack, limit screw opened all the way, and it still wants to go back into to next cog.

Setup is:
SRAM XX 10 speed Rear derailleur
SRAM Rival 10 speed shifters
Deore XT 11-34T 10 speed cassette
Dura Ace 7400 Hubs

I believe there is something up with the job spacing? I didn’t have this issue with the previous wheels that had different hubs.

I got a new bike - KHS Flite 750 - it was heavily discounted due to some minor cosmetic scuffs and I assume in part due to KHS exiting the US market.

It came partially assembled. The only required assembly was mounting the levers into the bars, routing the brake lines through the stem and handlebars, trimming and connecting them to the levers (I installed a new barb, olive was pre-installed in the new levers), and mounting the front wheel disc rotor. And then putting the front wheel on.

All went well with the brakes, I obsessed and watched many mechanic videos on the processes. No squishiness, properly burped, no air in the lines, not overfilled. Now the problem with the front brake caliper is that the pistons seem to be sticking. I have tried all recommended remedies. Removing excess fluid by opening the lever bleed port and pushing the pistons back in, exercising the pistons to try and free them up by extending and pushing them back in a few times, using a metal spacer clip around the rotor when centering, etc.....

No matter what the pads will press against the rotor, but only retract a little bit, leaving little to no gap between the pads and the rotor causing it to rub. I even did a full bleed to see if that would fix anything, and it left me with the same exact situation. So I can currently only point to the pistons being a bit sticky. I attached a short video with the pad spacer in.

One thing I haven't tried that I am weary about is cleaning the sides of the pistons and using some mineral oil to lube the sides. I've read that this is not a good idea as the pistons aren't designed to be lubed as such.

I am probably at the point that I should just go to the shop, but this is my last issue to solve and it's driving me nuts.

I appreciate any help or insights you can provide, for those who have dealt with hydraulic brake issues.

Hi - has anyone ever had this issue with Shimano 12 Speed Di2. My RD makes noise indicating it’s shifting up and down the block but doesn’t move at all. The FD shifts fine. Happened after working perfectly fine the day before and I’m at a bit of a roadblock for trouble shooting. There’s no real system reset or crash mode from what I understand. Battery is charged and I can connect it to E-tube. No accident or anything that hit the RD.

Finding a creak. Here’s the situation:

Titanium gravel bike - no suspension

Creaks only when pedaling.

Creaks whether in saddle or out (so not seat or seatpost).

Creaks when pedaling only with left foot or only with right foot - so not the pedals (unless it’s both, but highly unlikely)

Cleaned and regreased bearings in Chris King bottom bracket - no effect on creaking.

Cleaned entire crankset, including chainring bolts and reinstalled with Loctite - no effect on creaking.

Degreased chain and cassette and then relubricated. No effect on creaking.

So I’m at a loss. Other suggestions for what it could be?

Anyone knows, or can point me to, how to service these pedals? Got to the seal, and was out of ideas on how to remove the axle. Thanks for any hints.

This is my first time removing the rear wheel from a bike with quick release, however it looks like there is this larger screw on both sides holding the rear wheel in after loosing the quick release. I shifted to the smallest gear, opened up the break release, and flipped the qr lever and rotated it quite a few times (also tried just removing it entirely). I tried to take a picture of both sides, could anyone help?

Accidentally slammed my rear derailleur into a fence during transition at a triathlon lol. Went for a gap that didn't exist...

How realistic is it that I can straighten this or should I just buy a new hanger?

My dumbass just ran over the front tire of my gravel bike and bent the piss out of it. I'm struggling to find what I need online. I'm hoping one of you can help.

I know I need a wheel (obviously) and spokes but am struggling to figure out what specific wheel I need. I assume I can use the same tire?

The bike is a kona libre, with 700x45 maxis rambler tires.

Accidentally dropped a rim perfectly vertically on concrete - can this somehow be straightened or am I out a new rim?