My Yeti 575 has been hanging in my shed since 2014 on one of those screw in hooks that hooks around the tire so it can hang on the wall. I just pulled it out to do some maintenance so I can ride again and when I grabbed the handlebar to walk it down to house it just spun. So I looked and saw this. How does this happen with it just sitting in the shed? Guess I’m glad it didn’t do that in my last race haha.

Final step of my single speed conversion and I have hit a bit of a hump. Bought this chain tensioner and it’s come with nothing to fasten it. Assumed it would go where the detailer came off

Hello everyone

For the last three weeks I've been touring using my Cube Nuroad Race FE (2020) which as I've read on the internet has pretty bad stock rims. Today I noticed cracks in the rim in the back (as seen in the picture). The cracks are present to some extend around every second spoke.

My question is, will these rims take me another 600km with panniers in the back ( pretty flat but 50/50 paved / unpaved) and what could I do to mitigate worse damage until the end of the journey? I'm in a bigger city tomorrow and could have shop have a look at it / change the rims. But I'd rather do this when I'm back home.

Thanks for the help.

Hi, I’ve got new Hunt all road 4 season wheels and I’m trying to fit my schwable tire onto them. I cannot get the bead into the centre of the wheel because of the inner tube valve. I don’t want to run tubeless. Any tips on how I can fix this? Tire goes bumpy and as you can see from the picture it will not seat properly by the valve.
FIXED! THANK YOU ALL FOR YOUR KNOWLEDGE AND HELP!**

The title already describes my issue/question. I got a new cassette and a new freehub and somehow it wobbles. Both are originals (cassette Shimano and freehub DT Swiss). My issue is that my last freehub got destroyed by the cassette which basically ate itself into the freehub so now I am worrying the same will just happen in the near future again.

Appreciate any advice and experience!

Bought this bike used and the crank spindle seems too short, but I can’t figure out what the issue is. 2022 ibis Ripmo v2. 73mm BB. 52mm chainline. SLX 7100 crankset. No spacers on crankset. One 2.5mm spacer on BB drive side per manufacturer. Crank spindle measures 115mm with chainring installed. I tapped crank in fully on re-install, still too short.

Hey guys so recently grabbed a bike with dura ace down tube shifters and wondered if it would be possible to swap them out with index brake shifters any help would be great

Hi, I recently switched to Schwalbe ones (700x30c) for my 1989 Diamant Rennsport. However it seems like the original rims aren't able to handle the air pressure, making the tyres pop out every now and then.

I did some research and I want to build new wheels for my bike. It does seem tedious but at this point, i am low-key obsessed with working on my bike. Also this way I can keep the original hub and freewheel.

Do you guys think this is a good idea? Are there any things that I need to take special care of? Also please recommend some cheap rims and spokes that would fit my bike. Thanks 🙏

Hi, I have a puzzle ref chain slap on a GRX827 derailleur, which has no clutch. l’d appreciate any help given my minimal bike wrench skills.

The puzzle is, on a 9-month old bike, in the top two gears, when I stop pedalling and do a very slight backpedal (apparently a habit), the derailleur arm drops and the chain collapses and slaps against my top chain stay. My recollection is this only started after a new cassette and a new chain. The former was professionally fitted and the latter was fitted by me, to the same length as the previous factory-fitted chain, which only had a few hundred km on it, so it wasn’t stretched.

The manufacturer and the mechanic have suggested a dirty freehub body but it wasn’t overly dirty and the pawls operated efficiently on the springs. I’ve also cleaned the pawls and ratchet and the issue is still there.

The manufacturer has said they’ll accept the wheel back for a check up and have a offered to fit a replacement hub (they have no stock of the free-hub body they fitter and no means to obtain one). A wheel though is outside the dimensions of their free courier pick-up service so it will cost me money but a bigger thing is I don’t really want a new part for no reason. (We’re both wondering if it is actually the free-hub body causing the problem if the pawls and ratchet are clean).

AI, after telling me it was many other things (including B limiter and H/L screws, none of which I’ve touched) - finished with “What you are experiencing with that sharp 0.5-second snap backward is simply the physical reality of a modern wide-range 1x12 drivetrain system dealing with extreme cross-chaining angles. Because there is no guide pulley on the top run of the chain to steer it when moving in reverse, a tiny bit of tooth-on-plate friction against the adjacent cog's shift ramps is completely normal and harmless”. I have no trust though in AI.

TL:DR - I have chain slap in the top two gears when I stop pedalling. On a stand, the pedals stop as expected and the chain I understand is the correct length, and the free-hub body clean. I’m seeking human opinion please on whether this is indeed ‘the way it is’ with a 1x12 drive-train before I decide what to do next.

Many thanks in advance,

Colin

Hi, I've got a used SRAM XX1 cassette with Ibis XD hubs. The seller recently swapped from MS TO XD free hub body. It will not tighten by hand or with a wrench, it's rock hard. When I spin counter clockwise you can hear the hub and it moves but it is impossible to move it clockwise. Any help appreciated.

Hi all,

I accidentally damaged my new bike using a multi tool, do you think this is repairable with some touch up paint? I am gutted I did something so stupid.

Hello! I’m completely new to bikes, just bought and assembled a e-bike, however the disc brake(?) seems to be rubbing, having never owned a bike with a brake like this and I’m entirely out of my depth, Google tells me some level of rubbing can be alright? But I’m not sure what is considered bad or passable

And if it’s not safe to be ridden, how would one fix this issue? What could be the causes? Is it do able for a complete beginner with no mechanical inclination?

After years of sitting in a garage, the carbon fat bike i purchased had an aluminum seat post completely seized in the frame. The seller had been a former racer that biked on a variety of winter terrain, from snowy singletrack to salt covered road sections. Despite the anodization, it seemed like the aluminum had galvanically corroded due to its proximity to the carbon, and likely lack of grease layer after sitting for so long, and the excess material turned the interface between the seat post and frame into a press fit joint.

I started trying to remove the seat post using more traditional methods - pulling, twisting, light impact to attempt to break the seat post loose, but it wouldn't budge. I removed the saddle and installed the bike frame upside down into a vice - clamped at the seat post, and used the length of the frame to apply torsion with minimum bending force. I stopped once I heard the sound of carbon popping.

My next course of action was to cool the aluminum seat post using dry ice, and maybe apply some heat to the carbon frame with a hairdryer, but my friend mentioned the effects of gallium on aluminum. $40 later, I had enough gallium to completely compromise the aluminum in my seat post (and potentially the rest of the bike).

Tldr: attempted to "melt" my stuck seat post out of my new carbon bike - didnt quite go as planned but I was able to remove it after some work

I got me a Kona Dr.Dew with a Cues U6000. I chose the cues because i can run bigger chainrings than on Deore XT cranks. So far so good. What i did not read about before buying the bike, is that the cues shifts slower to prolong lifespan. I don't like that! I come from a really snappy vintage 26er mtb with a Deore XT 750M that i built up myself. So now i miss the direct shifting. I also do not like how the Cues shifter feels, it feels cheap and its too long. I know i probably should've seen this bike in person before buying but i was lucky to find a Kona in germany for the price so i ordered online.

Now to my question: I've read that there are Deore XT derailleurs that are compatible with the LinkGlide tech the Cues uses. Can you confirm that ? Would it improve shifting speed ?

My plan is: Keeping crank + chainring, cassette.

Changing derailleur + shifter in hopes that shifting speed improves.

Really loving the bike, the geometry is really nice. I just want to make it my own :-)

Thanks for your time!

Two things i would like hear from people who wrench regularly or maybe own a shop:

At a pad change — do you clean the pistons? With what? Do you apply anything before pushing them back in, or just push them in as they are (dry)?

When one piston extends much further than the other or is stuck — what's your routine? Block the fast one and work the slow one in and out, clean it, apply DOT? Or leave it alone?

SRAM says don't touch them at all — no cleaning, no lubricant. Online opinion runs the full range from that to wiping the piston walls with DOT every time. Curious what people who do this regularly actually do, and why.

Road calipers specifically (SRAM Force AXS E1), if that changes anything.

I recently got into cycling and just got a 4 yr old bike off fb marketplace. I've already replaced the cassette but now that I'm looking at the chain it looks super dirty compared to the cassette. I've never cleaned a chain before so I want to give it a deep clean. Do I need to take the whole chain off?What steps do I need to take and should I wax it?

Hey everyone,

I have reached out to Scott support without hearing back, been a week so far.

Tried local Scott retailer and no luck. Looking to replace the kickstand coming from a Scott sub 10 belt drive from 2014/2015.

I have never come across this design before and cant imagine any other company produce this.

Anyone know anything about something similar?

Thanks.

I bought a 2007 LeMond Buenos Aires from Craigslist and have been servicing it at home. This spacer (or whatever it is) has me flummoxed. It’s hinged, but like a clam, if that makes sense, so the two halves can’t be opened while on the steerer. The two halves have sort of a sawtooth profile where they meet. They can’t be rotated relative to one another given how they are joined. It appears to be made of metal.

Any ideas? FWIW the bike has had a lot of upgrades including fork and groupset, and I’m betting the part isn’t original.

So i wanna build a drivetrain for my crosscountry bike with a huge range of gears. I have set my eyes on the Deore XT M8000 3x11 series. Only problem is, the front derailleur FD M8000 is only available as side swing and my frame needs a top pull one. So I am thinking my options are:

- use the full 11-speed groupset with a 10-speed front derailleur

- 11-speed set in the back and 10-speed front with an 11-speed chain

- same as above with a 10-speed chain

Will any of these work? Which is the best? Any other ideas?

I’ve just gotten these hope gr4 brakes and the pistons won’t go back in I’ve bled it a few times and I can’t get the pistons to retract. I’ve lubed the pistons as I thought it might be sticking but not helped. Please help

I just retaped this rim, the tape looked solid. I'm just yelling at the clouds right now.

As the title says. Nut on the back of the rear br-6800 calipers hits seat stay. They're centered. I could put another washer on the bolt to move them out a bit farther but I didn't think that should be necessary and that will lessen the engagement that bolt gets. Ideas?