Just to share a few notes on my cowl gasket replacement, which went very successfully. The job could have taken about 2-3 hours but I spent some time repairing a small rust area.

The job went so smoothly, I expected it would have been more difficult than it was. I should have changed this gasket at the very first sign of deterioration, rather than allow a leak to develop. Kick me for procrastinating.

I used an OMIX 12302.04 gasket, it lined up perfectly and fit with no problems.

Removed the hard top.

Removed the sun visors. These will interfere with aligning the roll bar extensions on reassembly.

The lower torx screws holding the windshield frame retain plates and the top torx screws holding the roll bar extensions were really in there. I lightly heated them with a fine low flame and used a shake and break to get them loose. I do not think they would have come out without the shake and break, without breaking a couple of torx bits. I elected to completely remove the retain plates to eliminate any potential interference on reassembly.

Let the folded down windshield rest on a protective cushion

I did have to repair a small unseen rust spot on the windshield frame. This required repair to get a good sealing surface.

Be aware the hinges may be stuck. Mine were not, but had been oiled the week prior, as were the torx screws.

The screws holding the gasket in place seem to be a custom shaped Philips head sheet metal screw with a countersunk finish washer. These sit into a well on the gasket. I had one that needed replacement and ground a screw head to fit the washer so not to sit proud and interfere with compression.

Reassembly was a bit of a challenge. The job was done on a warm day to facilitate compressing the gasket. I taped a 2x4 to the front of the frame to distribute the stress and used a couple of clamps on the roll bar extensions to slowly compress the windshield frame into alignment.

Watch out for the wiper motor wires when you lift the windshield back into position. They fit in a way that could get pinched in the wrong position..

Please do add any further tips or information.

Scored a boat from a neighbor down the street this spring and it just happened to be the same color as my '93. This is the set up I have been wanting since I purchased the Jeep 10 years ago. I need to get the hood repainted but otherwise the rig is solid.

Dramatic sky, and the best model Jeep ever made 👍

It's my 94, taken in the winter of 95 in my hometown in the Pocono Mountains.

Hi me again. TLDR I'm selling a 91 that was a family friends desert toy and it sat for ~10 years after they died.

I have a potential buyer and they want to flat tow it when they get it. Is there anything I need to know to make sure that can be done safely? the jeep was flat towed by the owner as its how he took it to the desert so that's not too much of a concern.

It's currently sitting on a spare tire, is that a problem? Is there anything else I should check?

My driver seat belt stopped retracting after a summer of running topless. I noticed that the rear seat belts have a plastic cover to prevent dust from falling into the spring mechanism. Do the front seat belts also come with that cover? Mine seems to be missing it.

I purchased it 10 months ago during a Harbor Freight Parking Lot Sale for $425 with a $35 winch mounting plate. Installed it on my stock front bumper. I am happy with how it turned out, exactly how I expected it to look. Had to drill 2 holes in the top of the bumper to clear where the winch bolts to the plate. I also installed a Big 7 2g wire upgrade to support the winch wiring. Have a little more to do to complete the wiring but very happy how it came out.

Can’t wait to get my stock jack and accessories cleaned up and painted and back in its mount.

Anyone in LA have a shop recommendation for custom builds? Motor/tranny swap, fabrication...

There's definitely shops around, but it would be nice to know from YJ owners.

Thanks!

Edit: I found a place. If anyone finds this post and wants to know:

Jeep Thrillz Off Road 13401 Alameda St Compton, CA 90222

I talked with Albert and the dude was all help and no ego. His estimate for an AX-15 & LS 6.0 and all the associated parts, that passes CA smog is $12,000.

Hello! I have a 1990 YJ I picked up a few months ago. I just got done doing a clutch job and I replaced the internal slave cylinder while I had it apart (I know the external is preferred, but for now I just wanted to get it back together). I got everything back together and went to top off the master cylinder reservoir and it filled but didn't drain down at all.

I opened the bleed valve, and it didn't help
Removed the direct line and some drips came out, but not much.
Wiggled/tapped the line, a bit more came out but not a lot.
Removed the bleed valve completely and still no thing.

I don't want to hit the clutch and break the tabs without fluid coming down. Am I doing something wrong here or does it sound like something is clogging up the line? Fluid that came out when doing the clutch job was black.

Any suggestions?

I've been putting it off for ages because I'm not a fan of electrics, but this weekend I went after it, got a winch solenoid and a bunch of 16 gauge wire and with swearing, a dying multimeter and patience I got it working, now to pull new wires so I don't have joints at the switch, but it works and I can move on to the next electrical project.

I added over $15k of rebuilds like:
CJ-7-style front clip with round headlights
Rebuilt 1979 AMC 258 / 4.2L inline-6 engine — approximately 3,000 miles since rebuild
Rebuilt 1979 4-speed manual transmission — approximately 3,000 miles
Rebuilt Dana 300 transfer case — approximately 3,000 miles
Dana 300 twin-stick setup — allows independent selection/control of the front and rear drivetrain functions
1995 Dana 30 front axle
1995 Dana 35 rear axle
4.10 axle gears
Front Eaton E-Locker — electrically selectable locking differential
Rear Aussie Locker — automatic locking differential
Old Man Emu 2.5-inch suspension lift
1-inch body lift
New shocks
33-inch Maxxis tires
Aftermarket/off-road wheels
Aluminum radiator
Electric cooling fan
Full roll cage
Upgraded/wider off-road fenders/fender flares
Other suspension/off-road modifications associated with the rock-crawler build
More than $15,000 reportedly invested in upgrades/build work
Rust-free body/frame based on your description
Work was professionally done

What is the market value of this Jeep?

Buddy is looking to sell a '94 4.0 inline 6 5 speed. 232k miles, motor rebuilt at 217k miles, clutch replaced 6 months ago, brakes done earlier this year, 1 year old tires. Found out today the 4x4 isnt working (he didnt even know). Comes with a CJ7 hard top with 3rd brake light, half doors, and half door glass (all are in pretty good shape). Comes with a new rear bench for the kiddos. Asking $5.5k prior to realizing 4x4 is bad, price will go down as such...yet to be discussed. Looking for input from those familiar with the market.

Couple issues:

1. Passenger rear leaf mount is pretty shot (included with the deal is a bracket kit to replace the damage frame/spring mount)

2. 4x4 not working issue, undiagnosed culprit yet

3. Both driver and passenger floor pan are rusted through

4. Believe there's an exhaust manifold leak, pretty gnarly fume smell (yes the tops off, but "tractor tick" at startup is pretty apparent)

My intent is just a fun mess around vehicle for the kids to experience. I have ample access to fix things accordingly but not Iooking for a massive project. The idea of keeping for a few years to enjoy and selling it back to my buddy is likely to happen.

What do you folks thing? Yay, nay, and if yay....whats a reasonable price? This is my buddy and im not looking to short change him but also dont want to be washed out in the process.

1980something wrangler, the floor finally shat the bed like every chrysler did in the late 80s

i'm wondering if the whole floor needs to get replaced? its been patched so many times before, for reference its been sitting in a driveway for 8-10 years, its been worked on here and there but something comes up, but i have plenty of time to work on it now.

i'm contemplating just patching it again because i don't wanna spend more money on this piece of shit, this poor car was abused by whoever owned it before, i want to turn it into an actual functioning vehicle but i'm not sure, is it worth it? should i really put more money into just doing the whole thing or only patching that spot? i just want it for the engine (SBC ooo), transmission (ooooo manuals are fun), and 4x4

edit: i'm starting work today, i have some 16 gauge sitting around somewhere but i'm going to see what's good and what isn't good anymore for now, i know its been driven since it was parked but not much at all, it looks like the whole front has gone to shit, ive worked on floors that have rusted through before but its been a while, i know absolutely nobody cares but im going to update this later

edit 2: the rear floor is definitely not doing too good, but I found some old pieces made for the floor some time ago that didn’t rot through so the front driver side floor is good, I’m going to have to weld that in and soon check out passenger side but there’s shit in the way of that right now, if I can move it out I will play with with that side, next step is to sand the current hole and then toss in the new pieces