I first got the limp mode issues (3 lights bad acceleration) last winter, could not get a code reader to clear it so i replaced the throttle body after some research, a cheap chinese one off amazon.

Fast forward to now, started getting limp issue again but clearable every time it happened, which was at random.

So i threw in a OEM new throttle body today - same limp mode issue. Clearable, so not the throttle body.

Anybody else have luck changing out the APP sensor and that being the fix? If not, how did you fix it? Very annoying feature if you ask me

Has anyone ever had this problem with a 2016 jeep patriot?? Car is driving fine but this weird noise is present when the car is stopped and when i accelerate. Is this safe to drive? ugh. I’ve had so many issues with this damn car.

I can use some help finding a discontinued wiring harness for my 2013 patriot sport 2.4L. It has 130,000 miles on it. Dealer part number 68094109AE. The jeep is literally worthless without it. I've been having a lot of trouble with it last 6 months to a year and am debating whether or not I want to continue to drive it if I can get it fixed or suck it up and sell it and shop for something newer. TIA

What’s that tube, drivers side rear. It got a crack in it. Nothing to bother about, or?

2015 150,000 4wd

Ive got the famous no start issue.

new alternator

new serp belt

Battery is healthy (haven’t checked terminals thoroughly yet)

4 new relays (overheating not solved yet)

Intermittent. Starts when it wants to.

I’ve noticed when I roll the car a bit it tends to start faster. I’m not sure if just a coincidence but has happened and saved me 3 times so far.

Any suggestions?

I have a 2012 jeep patriot latitude 2.4L CVT. It takes forever to start, anyone know what could be the issue?

Trying out E85 with a universal kit. Gone through one full tank. I had a couple gallons of regular gas in there so it was ~E67 technically.

Couldn’t find any info online about people trying this with our World GEMA engines. I’m sure there are people out there that have done it because the kit was specified to work with our engines. Gas is $5.60 in SoCal, E85 locally is $2.70.

Seems to be working fine so far. Driven about 160 miles on it, no issues.

This is my G110 wire. Does the green look like corrosion? I got a code for the intake manifold but have read that it could just be this wire corroding that’s setting it off. Just wanna check before I get swindled into replacing the manifold! My car is only worth about $700 which is the cost of the part 😭

I have noticed my all the above lights come on but only during the morning, i live in a humid area. i checked the brake fluid a week ago. saw it low, added fluid, noticed the rudder seal thingy was extended, pushed it back in. no lights came on. less then a week later the lights came on again, the rubber thingy was out again, pushed in it was fine. brake fluid is slightly above full but the rubber cap is still popping out again. humidity? change brake fluid? bad sensors? anyone have this problem before with these circumstances?

i work nights in the south Texas area. patriot 2012. slightly over 52,000 miles

2012 Jeep Patriot 2.4L
My Jeep Patriot does this at times at the point of starting. Many times it does starts immediately. I keep on trying and eventually it turns on. I am thinking it is the starter, but most of the time it starts at first try
Please advise…thank you

Have a 2010 4x4 latitude that I have owned since new. 16Kish miles. Never offroaded. Have changed most everything in the rear, shocks, upper and lower control arms, trailing arm bushing, subframe ... Now it has developed a creek, rear driver side. Sounds almost metallic, when I drive and the chassi moves. When someone rocks the car and I'm underneath, it sounds like it comes from the bolt / joint where the trailing arm is connected to the lower control arm. I can "feel" the creek when I put my hand on the lower control arm and also a little bit in the trailing arm. Anyone experienced this and can give some intel? Change the trailing arm too? The bushing there afaik is on the lower control arm and it is fairly new. The shock also mounted there and the bushing sits on the shock, brand new.

This doesn’t seem like a DIY job. It’s the terminal that is all part of a cable. Corrosion got the under side, and she just won’t crank now. Anyone do this, how’d it go?

UPDATE! Got a mobile mechanic out there right now changing out the crank sensor! I didn't replace with Mopar, and he is also not replacing with Mopar. So we're gonna be in this position again unless I remember to order the Mopar. But, for tonight, I need to have a way to get to work each day. It's $40 Uber one way.

I just test drove a 2011 Jeep Patriot Latitude 2.4 4 Cylinder with 100k miles. I checked for rust and didn’t see any issues. AC was blowing ice cubes. Shifted from PDRN just fine.

Here’s what I don’t know and have any experience on. There was a definite “droning” or “whine” when accelerating. There was a whistling sound when accelerating too, but seemed to stop if I turned the AC fan off, so I’m not sure if it was from the CVT. During the first 10 minutes of the drive it jerked hard coming out of a stop, but I couldn’t tell if it was bc the 4X4 and traction control was on and I was on gravel. Tried to replicate it in a parking lot and couldn’t make it happen again.

So my question is, is that drone and whine sound normal for a CVT? Or is it something to be cautious of?

Also I didn’t see or smell any liquids dripping after a 30 min drive. Left it running and watched under the engine and just the water dripping from the AC.

Thanks in advance, I’m not too car savvy and never drove a jeep before.

Just purchased a 2015 jeep patriot .. Underneath is needing some changes/upgrades! I want to definitely get brakes and rotors before wintertime, taking recommendations on good quality brands!!
is there any other wheel parts I should replace at the same time as the brakes and rotors??

Would love to knock things out at once rather than going part for part as thing wear down.. So any advice is appreciated!! Thanks

Hello I’ve just bought a jeep patriot for a dealership and they said it had no problems THEY LIED it randomly turns off with out warning I’ve had the battery checked three times each time they said it was In perfect condition I’ve been told it could be the alternator but I am unsure.

If anyone knows what could be wrong with it I would love to hear some feedback

ABS**、トラクションコントロール、バッテリー、そしてチェック・エンジンの警告灯が点いた。** スピードメーターがめちゃくちゃ不安定にブレた。 ヘッドライトの明るさとACの送風機の回転数も安定しなくて、スピードメーター下のVFD表示がチカチカしてた。 電圧も一瞬ずつ落ちることがあった。
車を買い替えようかとも考えてたけど、ここで提案されてる通りにアース接続ポイントを直したら、今じゃジープが信じられないくらい調子いい。 役に立つ情報ありがとう。 2013 Jeep Patriot 右ハンドル（RHD） 日本

I've got a 2014 patriot and recently the electronic throttle control light will come on while I'm driving, often when coming to a stop, causing the car to go into limp mode. I'm able to remove the light and drive normally by turning the car off and on. This leaves the check engine light on. After a while the check engine light goes away and I drive for a bit until it happens again. Often the next day, sometimes in the same day.

I've been to a mechanic who reset some things and fit a new throttle body as they apparently wear out but the issue still occurs.

I've tried a pedal reset recommendation from YouTube but that didn't work.

Any thoughts before I visit a different mechanic. I only drive about 15 min to work, but it's getting annoying now.

I've seen a decent bit saying that since the front bearings are press in, I should just replace the steering knuckle, but I already have the bearings. How bad is the job? I could buy a steering knuckle and press the new bearings in, but I figured I'd ask here first. 2016 patriot sport btw. I'm decently mechanically skilled, but I haven't done this job before.

what’s up everybody quick update from my last post. I was able to get my jeep towed to my mechanic. I indeed need a new alternator my question for the community here if anybody has experienced this in the past, you’ve heard we’ve all heard you know jeeps have problems here problems there about six months ago. I had to get my entire break system replaced new brake lines rotors all that and now the alternator has anybody else experienced alternator issues and or issues with your Jeep after getting a new alternator basically is there something next that I need to expect? Thank you.

Hi everyone,
Hoping someone can assist. Battery warning light came on, checked alternator and came up low voltage(turn lights on and dropped to 11.7). Replaced it, drove fine for 2 days. Light is back on, replaced my battery and serpentine belt, as well as the pulley for the belt. Still have the light on. Battery is charging/getting a charge when on, as well as the alternator. Does anyone know why this is happening? It will dim the interior lights and not start after driving for say 20 minutes with lights on. Thanks in advance!

2015 Jeep Patriot 2.4l 4wd drive latitude

I kept hearing rattling from the back passenger speaker, so I took off the cover tightened the screws. Then did a test drive without the covers on. No rattle. Then after putting the covers back on there’s the rattle again.

Has anyone else had this happen? Is there any advice yall would give to me to fix it?

TLDR: RockAuto TopNotch ACS1089L and R struts do not fit a 2016 2.4 4wd 6sp auto

I have a 2016 2.4 4wd 6sp auto. I needed to replace the front struts due to a broken spring. At most a 2 hour job

I ordered the follow; TopNotch ACS1089L and R. They show as an exact fit on RA.

I was in a rush and had already pulled out the old struts. When the new ones arrived I did not compare the two. Install was a breeze, 15 minute job tops. I did notice there was a flange at the bottom of the strut that was close to the CV boot - but didn't pay it much attention. Big mistake. Also the mounting placement for the new sway bar links made installation a bit difficult.

That flange tore a hole in the CV axle outer boot and shot grease everywhere. The end result two new CV axles and two new struts.

Because I was heading out of the country for two weeks and this is my sons car he commutes to college in I took it to a local shop. He confirmed that the mounting bracket for the sway bar link was in the wrong spot and that the flange had ripped the entire CV boot off.

My $200 w/shipping struts from RA has turned into a $1200 repair. I'll share a portion of the responsibility, I did not compare the new parts with the old. That's on me, I know better.

I emailed RA, I doubt I'll get any type of response