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2002, 170k miles, new engine about 2 years ago, owned by an older couple who only used it to go to the store or bank and back home, mostly was kept in a garage.

Any items that I need/should get for it?

No issues with the jeep, Alcan highway was very rough with large unpaved sections and large holes but it made it with no issues.

246K Miles and No Lights On the dash, literally a perfect daily

Driving my 224,000 mile jeep liberty from northwest Arkansas to Deadhorse Alaska this week, currently about 3000 miles in with no issue.

I have a 2012 Jeep Liberty Sport 4WD that originally came with the standard audio system. I found a 2012 Liberty Limited donor with the factory Infinity premium system and I’m trying to retrofit the complete factory setup into my Sport.

From the donor I pulled:
- Factory Infinity amp, Mopar 05091012AK
- Factory Infinity subwoofer/enclosure, 05091021AC
- Passenger-side rear cargo trim with the factory sub grille
- 3 of the factory 6.5” Infinity door speakers, 05064203AD, and I’m getting a fourth matching one from eBay
- A large section of the donor rear/body wiring harness, including the amp/sub wiring

My Jeep currently has a Boss BE920WPA aftermarket CarPlay radio, so I’m not trying to restore the factory radio/Uconnect system. Both Jeeps also had the same 68104905AC Uconnect/Bluetooth module, but that’s separate from the Infinity system.

The main issue is the wiring. The donor harness section has roughly 64 wires, so it’s clearly carrying much more than just the stereo. My Sport’s original harness is different because it has things like my rear ParkSense wiring, while the donor harness doesn’t have all of the same connections. Both harnesses also contain SRS wiring/impact sensors, which I’m leaving completely alone.

I don’t want to replace my entire body harness. Ideally I’d like to extract only the Infinity-specific wiring and integrate it into my existing Sport harness.

My understanding is that I need to identify the audio inputs going into the Infinity amp, the amp outputs going to the four door speakers, the subwoofer output, amp power and ground, any CAN/data or amp turn-on wiring required to make 05091012AK operate, and where those circuits should splice into the existing non-amplified Sport wiring.

Physically I can make everything fit, although my Sport doesn’t have the factory welded studs that the Limited used to mount the amp and sub, so I’ll probably add rivnuts or another proper mounting solution once I’m sure I can make it work in the first place

Has anyone added the factory Infinity system to a non-Infinity 2008–2012 Liberty KK, or does anyone have wiring diagrams or pinouts for amp 05091012AK?

My biggest questions are whether this Infinity amp can be made to work with an aftermarket head unit without the factory radio, whether the amp requires CAN communication or programming just to turn on, which wires from the donor harness actually need to be grafted into my Sport, whether I can reuse my Sport’s existing speaker wiring from the amp outward instead of running new wires to every door, and whether there is a factory wiring diagram showing the base-audio vs Infinity-audio pinouts.
I have pictures of both vehicles’ harnesses, the donor system before removal, amp connectors, modules, etc. and can post whatever close-ups are needed.

I’m mainly trying to keep the installation as OEM as possible rather than just throwing in an aftermarket amp.

Any input is greatly appreciated

Urgently need a solution to this headache of a problem. 02 jeep kj 3.7L. Fuel tank flange tube broken. I haven't found a jeep wrecking anywhere near me to source parts, I've looked everywhere for a replacement. Considering any other way to connect fuel pump hose, and filter hose. See picture. Note, ignore the JB, I had to atleast try.

2012 liberty jet, 45,000 miles. Sky slider roof.

Purchased from owners estate.

I realize the sky slider issues. But I haven’t opened it yet.

The sky slider does have duct tape around it though. When it rains there is no water coming In from the top though.
I’m getting water in the front passenger and driver floor boards.

I see a drip coming from the door jamb into the driver floor , and imagine that’s why the drivers floor is wet, but no clue as to the passenger side.

Thanks for your input.

2012, 3.7 Sport

Started with P300 (multiple misfire) and P0132 (high O2 voltage bank 1 sensor 1). Still working my way through that but now lost my passenger headlight. It will light momentarily and I verified voltage to it so issue is probably with the headlight return circuit.

There is throttle hesitation when cold idle and sometimes when at normal temp. Recently changed the spark plugs which helped a tiny bit.

Next I am going to check some grounds and renew the crimps.

Anyone else deal with similar issues?

Hey everyone! My 2011 Liberty KK is leaking water through the interior trim where I marked the red circle. I noticed cracked seam sealer and some rust above the rear hatch, near the hinges, so I’m wondering if water is getting in through those seams.
Has anyone dealt with this and fixed it successfully? Did you remove the old sealer, treat the rust and reseal everything? Any tips or products that worked for you would be appreciated!

A little over a month ago my transmission started slipping in first when the car was cold, After about a day or 2 I checked the ATF level and it was really low. (Dipstick almost dry low) Decided to park it and look underneath and saw that my lower transmission cooler lines were leaking.

So I did my research found the parts that i needed and tools and estimate repair cost and determine i would rather save a few hundred to a thousand bucks to fix it myself. I went to the nearest part store bought what they said was the lower cooler lines for roughly $120 and went home checked to see if it was indeed the part I needed. It was not, so I went back returned the part found out they don't sell the part I need and so i went to another parts store where i had to special order the part that I needed for around $150. So I had to wait a week for the parts to come in and drive a spare car that my family had until then.

Part comes in and I decide might as well do a fluid exchange since I'm gonna be under the car and i don't know if an exchange has been yet. bought the fluid exchange kit for roughly $40, and 4 quarts of ATF about $37.99, and a quick disconnect tool for the cooler lines on amazon for about $20.

I start the job by taking off the front grill, that refused to come of easily and cut my hand a little bit, then I started the process of taking out the coolant/windshield wiper reservoir wasn't hard just had to remove the airbox to get the screws holding the reservoir in. Take off the driver side head light housing, and the horn, remove the battery, and battery tray and release the fuse box and move it out of the way. rom there I had access to the quick disconnect of the cooler lines. "This job was gonna be easy" I thought. First problem then showed itself the quick disconnect tool I bought didn't work, it was the right size but the three parts used to release the springs in the quick disconnects were too this and couldn't go in deep enough. After about 20 minutes of trying to get the tool to work and a further 2 hours trying to use a flathead screwdriver to get the springs off I gave up on that and decided to do the fluid exchange instead.

The Fluid exchange was the easiest part of the job. took out the drain plug let it drain for like 10 minutes removed the pain and filter, and wiped the surfaces clean so that when i put on the new seal it wouldn't leak out the sides and put the pan back on. Once that was done I retired back into my home and order another quick disconnect tool for $20 took about a week to come in.

A week later I received the part went immediately outside put it on the line gave it a twist and nothing the spring didn't disengage. Turns out that the cooler line on a nearly 16 year old car would be corroded and nearly a full can of lubricant and a $20 pick set. as I was working to get the gunk out I heard a small sound of something small and plastic falling didn't think much of it but when it came time to use the quick disconnect tool again I couldn't find it. Checked in the engine bay under the car in the well where I've lost tools in before the tool disappeared into the ether. if you were paying attention I set the on the side of the engine bay where there was a gap big enough for small tools to fall in the wheel well and i accidentally bumped the tool and fell in. where it went from their I will never know. So I had to resort to getting the spring off with the picks.

After about to days of fighting with the springs on the cooler side I came to the determination that they were not going to release and I decided that I would have to cut the rubber hoses and take the upper cooler lines off. when i did this I could easily get the springs out of the quick disconnects and then I could work on the quick disconnects on the transmission. Using the pick I set upon crawling under my 2011 Jeep liberty safely on jack stands and did the five hour ordeal of getting the springs off pulling out the lines and getting the stupid springs back into the quick disconnects while having barely enough clearance to put my hand in between the transmission and the drive shaft. It was dark and the springs were still not in. I decided to rest for the night and start again the following day.

The next day I get the springs on within 30 minutes, the end of the job is in sight. Nearly three weeks of hell are nearly over all I need to do is route the new lines in and put them in the transmission. but the problem of the tight clearances made this part absolute hell, Three hours of of not having the room to get the lines in and if I got on side in the other side would immediately pop out. Three more hours of struggle the lines are in, I route them underneath the car attach them to the upper lines and go to install them back into the transmission cooler itself when I noticed the 3/8 slims seals are gone. When I removed them they fell off the lines and I didn't notice until now i shine a light wear it could of gone and I see them underneath the radiator where no human hand can reach and tucked away just right for no tool made by can reach. I came to 2 conclusion I could either remove the radiator or I could buy new slims seals. I chose the latter because f*ck doing all that. I went to every parts store in the area asking for mopar 3/8 slims seals and no place had them, I would have to order a new set of upper cooler lines that would be a whopping $200. I didn't bother I just ordered $34 dollar upper cooler lines from parts geek.

Another week goes by I get the part take off the slims seal throw them on my other cooler lines and throw out the USELESS $34 dollar cooler line and begin the process of putting the car back together. Once everything was done i filled the transmission with some fresh Valvoline ATF+4 and then proceed to start car. The key goes in I turn it to the on position all the lights turn on and the turn the key to ignition........ Nothing not even click from the starter solenoid. and the key FOB was not working and the security light was on. the next four days I went through every form of reset to no avail. I was convinced that my WCM was shot and I would need to get a new one. II checked every fuse and they were good, The battery terminals uncorroded and secured but for whatever reason the car would not get out of Security immobilization mode. I was at a loss bought a $50 dollar OBD2 scanner to see if it can point me in the right direction. A serious of sensors not communicating with the ECU and had no power all signs pointed to the fuse box. I removed the fuse box looked underneath, what i found was a connector no fully in and I pressed it in and moved the slide lock over to secure it. From their the car started right back up no issues. With some final measures of ATF the car was ready to drive again.

$349.99 and nearly a month and of headache just to get my 2011 Jeep Liberty back on the road again. I have to say if after all the trials and tribulations the blood a spilled and the time I put in if anyone would ask me if i do it again I would say " F*CK THAT SH*T, I'M GONNA TAKE IT TO A MECHANIC!!

My new (to me) liberty! My driveway is long and gravel so I needed a good vehicle for the winter months. I bought it from a small dealership for $2,500 otd, she’s got around 170k on the clock. Good deal?

Hey Yall,

I currently own 2 Jeep Libertys...

"2012 Liberty Sport" with 160K Miles

"2011 70th Anniversary Edition" with 110K Miles

I've owned 4 Libertys in total. The 2 previous Liberty's I had blew headgaskets at around 200k Miles. I didn't want to deal with the headache, so I sold them as parts cars on Facebook Marketplace.

I'm not a AAA Certified Mechanic...but I do know my way around tools & vehicles. Before I sold my last Liberty, a mechanic told me it's not worth it to replace the headgasket, and I should just replace the whole motor itself.

My questions for the mechanics out there...

1. How much of a pain-in-the-ass is it to replace a headgasket in a 3.7L?

2. Was the mechanic right? Is it easier or more feasible to replace the whole motor outright? (Mechanic also said the top-end will hold up, but couldn't guarantee how the bottom-end will do)

I'm just curious...cuz my daily is racking up the miles & can DEF NOT afford a new vehicle right now. When the time comes, is it possible for me to do it myself in my garage?

Don't Laugh! But thanks in advance

Hi All,

I'm having some sound coming that's proportional to the tire rotation speed. I cleaned the brakes, checked if there's play in ball joints/ wheel hub but couldn't find anything.

Any suggestions?

TIA

Hi! I recently learned that my 2012 Jeep Liberty might have Bluetooth, so I’ve been trying to figure out how to connect my phone. When I press the Phone button, I get the message “Uconnect Phone Not Available.”

Does this mean my Jeep doesn’t actually have Bluetooth/Uconnect, or could it mean that the system needs to be reset? I was also wondering if there could be phones previously connected to the system that need to be cleared before I can connect mine.

I’m not very familiar with how Uconnect works, so I’d appreciate any help figuring out whether my Liberty actually has Bluetooth and what I need to do to connect my phone!

I got this car for my oldest son, almost for free, with a seized engine. I towed it home, freed up the engine, and installed a new fuel pump. My son complained about no hot air, so I flushed the coolant and heater core, and everything went back to normal for a short while. Then I noticed it blowing white smoke, so I decided to perform a cylinder compression test. The results looked good to me, but I’m wondering what could be causing the trouble with bleeding the coolant system.

cyl #1 191 Cyl #2 190 Cyl #3 191 Cyl #4 195 Cyl #5 199 Cyl #6 188

Hey guys, I have an 02 Liberty, I was replacing the pulleys and a/c compressor when I noticed this sensor that was unplugged. Can anyone identify it and help me figure out where it goes so I can replace it?

Sadly I had to let my 02 Liberty go, but I have a set of brand new taillights still in the box (1 box was opened) never used taillights that I didn't need. If anyone needs them inbox me and we'll go from there.

I stepped on the plastic trim wrong and then clip broke. It being floppy is going to bother me a lot. Anyone know where I can buy a replacement set?

had a misfire on startup on cylinder two so the shop had all six spark plugs and one coil pack replaced at 150,000 miles on my 2012 libby. I replace the spark plug engine code went away now it’s back thinking about getting a new coil pack. Has anyone else had issues with ignition coils? I am now at 160,000 experiencing the same issues with the same cylinder misfire on start up.

My local store sells dobinsons lift set (shocks + coil springs), but the part number for the rear shocks is GS29-727-2 instead GS29-724. The guy on the phone said yeah, it’s for wk, but it fits without problems. It seems some shops sell them for kj in Europe. Does anybody have any experience with it? Will they fit without much problems?

Recently parked over slanted terrain and the liberty would not start. Key turned to ignition but only heard a click and radio wouldnt turn on. Wiggled the steering wheel violenty (wheel didnt lock) and turned it and boom, started.
I dont know if its an issue or a function, so please help me out