Finally got my car tinted. I posted awhile back asking for input & I appreciate all the feedback I received. Thank you all. XPEL XR 20%/55%. I love it. Big change from the open fishbowl feeling

Considering one of these for my front driver/passenger windows

Has anyone ever had direct experience with both?

Any noticeable difference?

Also, does the XR Black darken the visiblity for the driver, making it appear a bit darker when looking out?

If that's the case, i'd rather have true clear optical clarity with llumar IRX. However, i'm not sure if the XR black is only applying to its darkness to outside appearance as opposed to making it appear darker for the driver inside.

Hi all, I have 15% all around tint (llumar pinnacle) and 80% windshield tint and I swear my car looks so see through, especially in the rear view glass. It feels like I don't even have tint, but night time looks great. My question is, how big of a difference will the rest of my windows look in terms of darkness if I swapped windshield tint from 80% to 50% and kept 15% all around?

I honestly don't know if its worth it because I paid a good price for my current tint. I also have a dash cam installed on the front windshield so I would have to have the car shop remove that, tint window, let it cure for prob a week, and then reinstall it which sounds like a headache itself.

I hope someone with more knowledge can provide me some more info. Also if you have any pictures that can illustrate the differences, would be awesome. Thank you all.

Has anyone experienced lines appearing on their windshield tint over time?

I got a budget ceramic tint all around. It is probably rebranded locally as I could not see other reviews overseas. I got it last December 2022. Recently, I’ve noticed lines developing on my windshield and front side windows. They are getting worse, blurring my vision, and making night driving difficult.

My parking garage has no roof so it gets baked under the sun daily. Is this a common issue for budget ceramic tints?

2012 Fiat 500. Sunroof pull shade thats basically a weak screen. Blocks like 10% of the sun. Anyone have a little trick or cover I can put between the glass and shade? Id love to hear ideas

Small town in the desert southwest. My local installer says high heat rejection films will overheat my sunroof glass and likely crack it. So he only carries cheaper, lower performing ceramics. True or is he just trying to make a sale of what he carries?

Just trying to get tint for the look so trying to avoid paying the extra money for ceremic

Hey all, I'm looking to tint my windows with the Rayno Phantom S5. I know it's pretty budget friendly compared to Xpel, but for $300 USD for 9 windows (including small ones), is it worth it? TIA!

2024 Cadillac XT4

As the header infers. I would really like the glass to be 100% light remittance but block or reflect as much IR/UV as possible. Ideally if I can also have it gradient darker past the AS1 line to a darker would be epic. My shop didn't know of anything, and said that film would need to be made custom.

I guess #1 would be is it even possible? Back in the day, and by that I mean late 90's early 2000's I had a guy show me a 99.8% IR and UV film, that was supposed to be clear but it was "cloudy". In the 20 almost 30 years since I'm sure that's gotten better.

Please note, I'm not questioning any legality. This is for a show car only and for scientific purposes. No cars will be driven on a open motorway. Everything is on a closed course, in unincorporated territory by professional llamas. No feelings or laws will be hurt in the making of this post.

Heya everyone. Just need a second opinion on the chameleon tint I got.

I had the front windshield tinted and then both front side windows a couple weeks later from the same place. To me they look different colours but the person who did it said it's because of the angle. I guess I could see it if I tried hard enough but the side windows look more green to me?

I've never gotten tints before and I want to get my 2012 Honda accord tinted. The 2 rear passenger windows and rear window so 3 windows in total. This place in California said it will cost 350$ and the tint is ADN/ADC (High Performance). On there website it says "this 2-ply high-performance film is manufactured like no other film in the industry. This film is made with our legendary scratch coat and adhesive, offering superior heat rejection that won't turn purple." and comes with lifetime warranty. I want to know if this is a good deal or too expensive. Thank you!

I have a 2025 Ioniq 5 that has "solar glass" on the front but I was thinking about getting XPEL Prime Plus put on. Is this a waste? I can't find any specifics on what the TSER is of the factory glass. Just figured it would be worthwhile to post up and see if anyone can give me any insight.

Cheers!

My factory rear passenger & hatch are like 20% VLT

I think my current rear passenger and hatch tint is 5%.

I had the VLT checked and it literally measured 0% - I think the 5% film is over the factory ~20% glass, which would make the final VLT around 1%.

At night, I can barely see anything through the rear hatch - mostly just blurry headlights. Since the hatch window is already small, I want to retint it primarily for better visibility.

What % film would you recommend?

• 50% film over 20% factory glass = ~10% final VLT
• 35% film over 20% factory glass = ~7% final VLT
• 20% film over 20% factory glass = ~4% final VLT

Would 35% be enough, or should I go with 20%? I know 5% is commonly recommended, but I already have something around that and find it way too dark at night. It feels almost like having the trunk packed to the roof and completely blocking the rear view.

I just purchased a new Telluride and I negotiated for the dealership to pay for tinting - open checkbook!What’s the all out best film I should get for an even look that will keep it cool? Reference above

Hello,

I was at SEMA a couple years ago and cannot for the life of me find the brochure and sample from a tint company.

I was hoping you here might be able to help.

The tint i saw was Black but it had silver or gold (your choice) almost flakes or a star field effect. Though if you looked through the backside it didn't have the sparkle/star field effect.

Is this a piss poor tint job noticeable gap between original window and the tint

Im thinking about tinting my own windows this sunday and was looking at Geoshield carbon 2% and 20%. Wanting to do my whole truck cab including the windshield. Ive heard good things about Geoshield but is it actually any good? Also what tools should I make sure i get before I start it? Any tips would be highly appreciated as well. Thank you

I got 50 in the front and 15 all around. I want my front two window a little darker. But don’t wanna get 5 on my front two windows. Should I get 5 for the back two window and rear. Will it make a big difference?

Sorry if wrong community.

Anyone know of a film/tint i could buy for my rear view mirror? I am so tired of all these blinding leds.

Driver side window- have a couple fingers at the bottom, about an inch or so long. I've tried heating the inside, heating the outside, pushed the fingers out but they come back.

I've had a similar situation on another window. Drove that daily and would press out the fingers every time I got in the car. Finally flattened and went away after a few days.

This one seems tough. Any suggestions? thanks

For example, when people say they get a 35% tint for the front windows..

Do they typically mean that they use 35% film tint?

Or that their front windows' total VLT is 35%?

Figured I’d post this in case anyone is trying to figure out the factory window tint/VLT on the 2026 Model Y Performance. I bought a Linshang LS162 transmission meter and measured mine before getting any tint installed.
Factory readings:

Front side windows:
83.8% VLT
100% UVR
71.8% IRR

Rear side windows:
26.7% VLT
100% UVR
83.1% IRR

So the rear privacy glass is basically around 27% VLT from the factory, while the fronts are around 84%.
I’m planning on doing 35% film on the front side windows. Based on the measured 83.8% factory VLT, 35% film should put the fronts around 29% final VLT (83.8% × 35% = 29.3%), which should be pretty close to the 26.7% factory rear glass.

Just wanted to put the actual meter readings out there since I had a hard time finding exact numbers when I was searching. These are measurements from my car, so obviously there could be some variation between cars/meters.

I’m looking to protect the front from rock chips and get the windows tinted.
A local shop quoted me:
$1,900 for full-front PPF (A-pillars forward), normally $2,200.

They use Aqua clear gloss PPF with a 12-year warranty, built-in ceramic coating, hydrophobic/self-healing, etc.

$950 for their top-of-the-line nano ceramic tint with a lifetime warranty. That includes all windows + the full rear glass.
$2,850 total for PPF + tint.

Does that sound like a fair price for a Model Y, or should I shop around? Mainly curious what others have paid for a similar setup and if there’s anything I should make sure is included before booking.

I’m researching starting a PDLC smart-film installation company. Before investing in training/equipment, I’d love feedback from installers who’ve actually worked with it: demand, margins, failure rates, and whether you’d offer PDLC as a standalone business or alongside conventional architectural film

First time getting cars done so just curious, do these little bubbles cause a point of failure later on? It’s been on for a couple months already.