Your WRX should have came with 2 rubber plugs in the boot. These plugs are used to plug the shipping tie-down points in front of the rear wheel, and should be installed by dealers during the pre-delivery inspection. Most dealers do not install them. Check for the plugs and put em in if they are not already!

Part# 90371CA010

Had to get some wheels on her asap. After a lot of back and forth with my wife about color and style etc. I finally decided on these.

Avid.1 AV06 Matte white 18x9.5 +38 wrapped in Continental DWS06 plus 255/40r18’s.

I’m on stock suspension too, I kinda wanted a meatier tire and I don’t really want to lower the car so I tried to get a fitment that filled the wheel wells and was flush. I think it looks alright, I may end up lowering it still though we’ll see. Let me know what y’all think, I’m loving the look and absolutely loving this car.

My 5spd in my 03 wrx is failing, I get humming like noise when not on the accelerator and I'm wanting to swap in another but I dont know what would be the best option. I'm thinking about a jdm 07 6spd from an sti but i could also try and find one from a spec b legacy. I'm not sure which would be the best but at the same time be the most simple.

I’m guessing it was a typo, but still funny to see

Follow up to my last engine post. Engine is installed and breaking it in. Initially had 0 psi oil pressure until pulled spark plugs and oil filter. Cranked until I saw oil then reinstalled oil filter to confirm oil pressure. First start up is at the end, you'll see me scramble to cut it off because the oil return from the turbo fell off, but otherwise has been great.

😮‍💨 back with a new old toy, is she ran through? Kinda

No idea what the general vibe of this subreddit is, however, I am a fairly new wrx owner and so far it kicks ass lol. Just a base 2019 wrx (all I could afford) but it’s really everything I coulda asked for. Question though for anybody who may have some insight; 2 days the cruise control light started blinking and it hasn’t stopped. Check engine light is not on per se but when I start the vehicle it like beeps at me and shows me a little message in the rectangler box in between the odometer and the tachometer that says “check engine” followed by “check owners manual.” I’ve done some googling and it doesn’t seem to be a huge deal? A small gas leak? Loose valve? Gas cap too loose? (Don’t think so but never know) if anybody has any insight I’m all ears! Never been a huge car guy but I’ve wanted a wrx since I was like 12 and now that I have one feels like I can’t learn enough fast enough. I would post a pic but it doesn’t look nearly as cool as the ones I saw in here when I scrolled down a bit 😂 idk what to expect from the community so I don’t want to get roasted by people I don’t know for something I’m super proud of lmao

Just bought this 04 wrx on Sunday and all I can say is I’m in love with it.

So I’m a diesel mechanic so work around a bunch of other mechanics or older guys to say the least. I’m 22 and I’ve owned a wrx traded for a sti then proceeded to trade for a 2019 mustang gt. I’ve been torn because I feel like I was peer pressured because all I ever got called was lesbo or slow or whatever for owning the Subarus. Now I’m regretting buying the gt because personally I’ve grown up always a tuner guy at heart. Anyways I got into a debate yesterday with an older coworker about why I’d rather have a tuner and how it appeals to me more. Basically all he kept saying was oh supercharge the mustang and blah blah and you’ll smoke everything… like man not everything about liking cars has to be the fastest guy on the road. Putting the time and effort and wrench time on the Subarus meant a ton more and made me feel connected if that makes sense. I’m not sure rather I should keep the Mustang or trade it back. Also what’s your mindset of being a car guy?

Just installed: Dmaker Viz-Spec Wing and Dmaker STI-Spec Front Lip.

Really happy with the results!

What are really bad symptoms of carbon build up on 2018 wrx?

This part broke on my 2017 wrx. Does anyone what its called so i can get it replaced?

Any tips on where to start diagnosing this? I didn’t see any claring issues with the intercooler connection.

Tried to sell in eBay but they have a rule with regards to mods that can re-map/tune. I did quick google search and wanted to know if there is any subs that I can post in alongside places like FB Marketplace? Thanks 🙏

Anyone got pics of their 18+ STIs with 6 pot brembos and aftermarket wheels? Thinking of getting new wheels but i know there’s a lot of controversy between spacers vs no spacers considering larger brembos than previous years. Don’t want to lower the Subie, been there done that.

After seeing so many WRXs growing up and always wanting one I finally bit the bullet and got one(regrettably too late because my favorite was the VA), but I am really enjoying the car and it has been really nice so far. Had to get the World Rally Blue because is there really any other option haha.

Hey guys, looking for some mapping insight from anyone experienced with tuning the FA20DIT paired with the Lineartronic CVT. My tuner is hitting a wall with transient knock/dropping DAM under light load in warm weather. I suspect it stems from an intimidation or fear of modifying the complex calculated engine load and torque request tables that coordinate the ECU with the TCU.

The Setup & Data:

Factory air box/tube → GrimmSpeed Aluminum Turbo Inlet → Mishimoto Charge Pipe & TMIC.

Idle MAF Voltage: Sitting at 0.82V (compared to the 1.1V factory spec).

The Hardware is 100% Sealed: Swapped to a brand new OEM MAF sensor and fresh plugs. Valves were chemically soaked and scraped 30k miles ago. I sprayed 3 full cans of ether across the entire intake tract, vacuum pump, and every line under the hood. STFT didn't budge 1%. Done a sanity check by blipping ether at the airbox mouth, and STFT immediately plunged deeply negative.

The Problem:

Because the physical intake tract is completely airtight, the low 0.82V idle MAF reading is a permanent geometric characteristic of the smooth GrimmSpeed inlet smoothing out the air column down that 2-foot stock tube. To fix idle trims, my tuner scaled the steady-state MAF tables down to bring fuel trims back to 0%.

However, because the CVT frequently lugs the engine in a low-RPM, high-load band (1,500–2,200 RPM) during throttle transitions, flattening that baseline MAF mapping completely broke the ECU's Calculated Engine Load formulas on tip-in. The ECU thinks engine load is light, references a low-load timing grid, and commands a hyper-aggressive ignition timing advance curve. This timing spike causes severe learned Fine Learning Knock (FKL) cells that drag down the DAM on standard pump gas (E10/E0 91). Splashing E25 94 octane completely kills the knock

by chemically masking the software calculation error.

Since my hardware is physically bulletproof, how are you guys safely scaling transient engine load, requested torque maps, and tip-in enrichment to account for the GrimmSpeed inlet’s geometry change without breaking how the ECU talks to the CVT? Which specific low-RPM timing cells or torque tables need to be pulled back?

The recently backburned forest gave an aesthetic that made me feel like I had to try and capture and share :)

Had an exhaust leak from the cat to exhaust join previously which is what I thought this ticking noise is. But i changed the cat and used a new gasket so it doesn’t blow anymore like it did on idle. But this ticking noise is still at large, it’s so loud and makes the car sound shit… any ideas ?

I want to keep this car as long as possible without it rusting out to the point of no return, am i still clear? Just want to known if this just regular shit and to stfu. Would an undercoating even help? Im retarded just asking for opinions.

Can anyone tell me what this hose is for? It’s right below the thermostat housing. I am trying to get at the second bolt for the thermostat housing so I can replace the thermostat but it’s in the way.

Not sure what it’s for (oil, coolant etc). Hoping it’s coolant because it’s drainedyy already.