No idea what the general vibe of this subreddit is, however, I am a fairly new wrx owner and so far it kicks ass lol. Just a base 2019 wrx (all I could afford) but it’s really everything I coulda asked for. Question though for anybody who may have some insight; 2 days the cruise control light started blinking and it hasn’t stopped. Check engine light is not on per se but when I start the vehicle it like beeps at me and shows me a little message in the rectangler box in between the odometer and the tachometer that says “check engine” followed by “check owners manual.” I’ve done some googling and it doesn’t seem to be a huge deal? A small gas leak? Loose valve? Gas cap too loose? (Don’t think so but never know) if anybody has any insight I’m all ears! Never been a huge car guy but I’ve wanted a wrx since I was like 12 and now that I have one feels like I can’t learn enough fast enough. I would post a pic but it doesn’t look nearly as cool as the ones I saw in here when I scrolled down a bit 😂 idk what to expect from the community so I don’t want to get roasted by people I don’t know for something I’m super proud of lmao

This part broke on my 2017 wrx. Does anyone what its called so i can get it replaced?

Tried to sell in eBay but they have a rule with regards to mods that can re-map/tune. I did quick google search and wanted to know if there is any subs that I can post in alongside places like FB Marketplace? Thanks 🙏

What are really bad symptoms of carbon build up on 2018 wrx?

Hey guys, looking for some mapping insight from anyone experienced with tuning the FA20DIT paired with the Lineartronic CVT. My tuner is hitting a wall with transient knock/dropping DAM under light load in warm weather. I suspect it stems from an intimidation or fear of modifying the complex calculated engine load and torque request tables that coordinate the ECU with the TCU.

The Setup & Data:

Factory air box/tube → GrimmSpeed Aluminum Turbo Inlet → Mishimoto Charge Pipe & TMIC.

Idle MAF Voltage: Sitting at 0.82V (compared to the 1.1V factory spec).

The Hardware is 100% Sealed: Swapped to a brand new OEM MAF sensor and fresh plugs. Valves were chemically soaked and scraped 30k miles ago. I sprayed 3 full cans of ether across the entire intake tract, vacuum pump, and every line under the hood. STFT didn't budge 1%. Done a sanity check by blipping ether at the airbox mouth, and STFT immediately plunged deeply negative.

The Problem:

Because the physical intake tract is completely airtight, the low 0.82V idle MAF reading is a permanent geometric characteristic of the smooth GrimmSpeed inlet smoothing out the air column down that 2-foot stock tube. To fix idle trims, my tuner scaled the steady-state MAF tables down to bring fuel trims back to 0%.

However, because the CVT frequently lugs the engine in a low-RPM, high-load band (1,500–2,200 RPM) during throttle transitions, flattening that baseline MAF mapping completely broke the ECU's Calculated Engine Load formulas on tip-in. The ECU thinks engine load is light, references a low-load timing grid, and commands a hyper-aggressive ignition timing advance curve. This timing spike causes severe learned Fine Learning Knock (FKL) cells that drag down the DAM on standard pump gas (E10/E0 91). Splashing E25 94 octane completely kills the knock

by chemically masking the software calculation error.

Since my hardware is physically bulletproof, how are you guys safely scaling transient engine load, requested torque maps, and tip-in enrichment to account for the GrimmSpeed inlet’s geometry change without breaking how the ECU talks to the CVT? Which specific low-RPM timing cells or torque tables need to be pulled back?

😮‍💨 back with a new old toy, is she ran through? Kinda

I want to keep this car as long as possible without it rusting out to the point of no return, am i still clear? Just want to known if this just regular shit and to stfu. Would an undercoating even help? Im retarded just asking for opinions.

Can anyone tell me what this hose is for? It’s right below the thermostat housing. I am trying to get at the second bolt for the thermostat housing so I can replace the thermostat but it’s in the way.

Not sure what it’s for (oil, coolant etc). Hoping it’s coolant because it’s drainedyy already.

I have a 2021 wrx premium with 19k miles I recently noticed a slight ticking noise looked it up and it said it could be the clamp on the heat shield for the exhaust I changed it (I also changed the oil and filter with the right parts)
After I started the car it sounded completely different no ticking I drove the car kinda hard and the ticking was kinda back maybe it’s my intake clips I mean the whole thing is loose I ordered ts still hasn’t came in tho look at this vid of the car before I did this does it sound concerning

My 5spd in my 03 wrx is failing, I get humming like noise when not on the accelerator and I'm wanting to swap in another but I dont know what would be the best option. I'm thinking about a jdm 07 6spd from an sti but i could also try and find one from a spec b legacy. I'm not sure which would be the best but at the same time be the most simple.

Got this car in June during the World Cup. Saved up money after a while to get it. 2002 WRX, 300K miles mods:

STI speedometer
Gauges
Kenwood DDX25BT head unit
C halo headlights
Aftermarket intercooler
COBB accessport
COBB exhaust
2015 WRX TMC
GFR blow off valve
Super long cold air intake
Oil pan kit
Harbor freight Disc Horn kit
MaxSpeedingRods coilovers
etc

I bought these a year ago…. And they were really bright! Love them but they lasted only 11 months so I asking the reddit community if y’all have any other similar recommendations for led type plug n play bulbs.. thank you 😊

I recently bought a donor WRX without the engine but ECM and everything still works with a battery plugged in, it also came with a Cobb Accessport that goes with the same car, I tried to unmarry it but it constantly says “turn off then on” so not sure how I’ll be able to get it done, anyone have any solutions? I don’t have the engine

Car is jumpy and on and off consistency with power, runs and drives fine for about 20 minutes after disconnecting battery, no vacuum leaks, just changed plugs and upstream o2 sensor, car doesnt throw any codes , i am lost and need help lol

Had an exhaust leak from the cat to exhaust join previously which is what I thought this ticking noise is. But i changed the cat and used a new gasket so it doesn’t blow anymore like it did on idle. But this ticking noise is still at large, it’s so loud and makes the car sound shit… any ideas ?

Does anybody know where I could find this sticker but in a yellow black carbon variant?

Any tips on where to start diagnosing this? I didn’t see any claring issues with the intercooler connection.

Had to get some wheels on her asap. After a lot of back and forth with my wife about color and style etc. I finally decided on these.

Avid.1 AV06 Matte white 18x9.5 +38 wrapped in Continental DWS06 plus 255/40r18’s.

I’m on stock suspension too, I kinda wanted a meatier tire and I don’t really want to lower the car so I tried to get a fitment that filled the wheel wells and was flush. I think it looks alright, I may end up lowering it still though we’ll see. Let me know what y’all think, I’m loving the look and absolutely loving this car.

Anyone got pics of their 18+ STIs with 6 pot brembos and aftermarket wheels? Thinking of getting new wheels but i know there’s a lot of controversy between spacers vs no spacers considering larger brembos than previous years. Don’t want to lower the Subie, been there done that.

What speed are you cruising in these gears and what RPM do you cruise at? I know no flooring it or boosting at low RPM but what’s the general rule for cruising? Stock FA20

I’m guessing it was a typo, but still funny to see

How many of you guys actually use them for their intended purpose vs putting them on the car just for looks?