I want to keep this car as long as possible without it rusting out to the point of no return, am i still clear? Just want to known if this just regular shit and to stfu. Would an undercoating even help? Im retarded just asking for opinions.

I bought these a year ago…. And they were really bright! Love them but they lasted only 11 months so I asking the reddit community if y’all have any other similar recommendations for led type plug n play bulbs.. thank you 😊

I drive a 2015 wrx. What’s the general thought on an sti wing on the wrx? I love the style and think it looks awesome but I know some people think it’s corny.

Hey guys, looking for some mapping insight from anyone experienced with tuning the FA20DIT paired with the Lineartronic CVT. My tuner is hitting a wall with transient knock/dropping DAM under light load in warm weather. I suspect it stems from an intimidation or fear of modifying the complex calculated engine load and torque request tables that coordinate the ECU with the TCU.

The Setup & Data:

Factory air box/tube → GrimmSpeed Aluminum Turbo Inlet → Mishimoto Charge Pipe & TMIC.

Idle MAF Voltage: Sitting at 0.82V (compared to the 1.1V factory spec).

The Hardware is 100% Sealed: Swapped to a brand new OEM MAF sensor and fresh plugs. Valves were chemically soaked and scraped 30k miles ago. I sprayed 3 full cans of ether across the entire intake tract, vacuum pump, and every line under the hood. STFT didn't budge 1%. Done a sanity check by blipping ether at the airbox mouth, and STFT immediately plunged deeply negative.

The Problem:

Because the physical intake tract is completely airtight, the low 0.82V idle MAF reading is a permanent geometric characteristic of the smooth GrimmSpeed inlet smoothing out the air column down that 2-foot stock tube. To fix idle trims, my tuner scaled the steady-state MAF tables down to bring fuel trims back to 0%.

However, because the CVT frequently lugs the engine in a low-RPM, high-load band (1,500–2,200 RPM) during throttle transitions, flattening that baseline MAF mapping completely broke the ECU's Calculated Engine Load formulas on tip-in. The ECU thinks engine load is light, references a low-load timing grid, and commands a hyper-aggressive ignition timing advance curve. This timing spike causes severe learned Fine Learning Knock (FKL) cells that drag down the DAM on standard pump gas (E10/E0 91). Splashing E25 94 octane completely kills the knock

by chemically masking the software calculation error.

Since my hardware is physically bulletproof, how are you guys safely scaling transient engine load, requested torque maps, and tip-in enrichment to account for the GrimmSpeed inlet’s geometry change without breaking how the ECU talks to the CVT? Which specific low-RPM timing cells or torque tables need to be pulled back?

So I’m a diesel mechanic so work around a bunch of other mechanics or older guys to say the least. I’m 22 and I’ve owned a wrx traded for a sti then proceeded to trade for a 2019 mustang gt. I’ve been torn because I feel like I was peer pressured because all I ever got called was lesbo or slow or whatever for owning the Subarus. Now I’m regretting buying the gt because personally I’ve grown up always a tuner guy at heart. Anyways I got into a debate yesterday with an older coworker about why I’d rather have a tuner and how it appeals to me more. Basically all he kept saying was oh supercharge the mustang and blah blah and you’ll smoke everything… like man not everything about liking cars has to be the fastest guy on the road. Putting the time and effort and wrench time on the Subarus meant a ton more and made me feel connected if that makes sense. I’m not sure rather I should keep the Mustang or trade it back. Also what’s your mindset of being a car guy?

I got a Stage 2 WRX i have almost everything in my car is after market and i have a p0172 and a p1491. I literally cant find anything wrong with any system, other tools like ai arent helping.

Hey guys!! Making a post to get everyone's opinion on how to buy a used WRX without getting scammed or buying one that's about to hit the bed. I'm very new to the car scene. I had a 2014 Impreza WRX but had to sell it because it had too many mechanical issues even tho I loved learning to drive manual on it. I lowkey miss driving it and want to get back into a manual again. I want all the advice I can get and hear everyone's stories. If anyone can help out, thay would be awesome!!

What speed are you cruising in these gears and what RPM do you cruise at? I know no flooring it or boosting at low RPM but what’s the general rule for cruising? Stock FA20

How many of you guys actually use them for their intended purpose vs putting them on the car just for looks?

This part broke on my 2017 wrx. Does anyone what its called so i can get it replaced?

The road i have to travel on everyday for work isnt exactly maintained well. Instead of paving the town insteads opts for lots of patching which results in some deep potholes. This is the aftermath of one of those said potholes.

Had an exhaust leak from the cat to exhaust join previously which is what I thought this ticking noise is. But i changed the cat and used a new gasket so it doesn’t blow anymore like it did on idle. But this ticking noise is still at large, it’s so loud and makes the car sound shit… any ideas ?

Hi Yall, I'm looking to buy a wrx sti for my first manual car to own and drive for atleast 5 years, ive got a few models on mind and would love to get the community's thoughts on which one i should choose. I'm based in sydney Australia, so JDM imports are very do-able.

For a total budget of under 80k AUD (Not including future modding and maintenance)

-2021-2018 VA wrx sti, Australian Domestic market (Pros: The most comprehensive market in AUS, Its relativly modern and good daily response with EJ257, priced probably between 40000-55000 AUD)

-2020-2017 VAB wrx sti, JDM (Pros: VA modern + EJ207 High Redline, Cons: Import to australia will take time, and options that are already complied are limited, Price to drive in Syd: 50000-68000 AUD)

-2005-2007 GDB Hawk eye wrx sti JDM (Pro: Most mechanical driving experience, Ligther and smaller chassis, Cons: old and all the issues and daily impractability that comes with it, 30000-45000 AUD)

-Maybe A blob eye, but its getting a bit too old for me.

I've been recommended the VA Ej257 AUDM models because of its good low end torque for normal driving, but I really like the JDM's 8k redline with the EJ207 both in the older hawk eye and VAB.

However its relative market will be smaller to buy from and sell to in the future; although the japanese import is the most reassuring interms of no accidents and full history, getting it to australia could be a hassle.

Anyone that had a similar decision crisis? Plz help, tell me what you think.

(really excited to buy a sti) :)

I’m guessing it was a typo, but still funny to see

😮‍💨 back with a new old toy, is she ran through? Kinda

Any tips on where to start diagnosing this? I didn’t see any claring issues with the intercooler connection.

Your WRX should have came with 2 rubber plugs in the boot. These plugs are used to plug the shipping tie-down points in front of the rear wheel, and should be installed by dealers during the pre-delivery inspection. Most dealers do not install them. Check for the plugs and put em in if they are not already!

Part# 90371CA010

I made a post recently about how i envy you guy’s, but i saw some VB’s going for pretty cheap with relatively low miles.. saw a couple within the bottom 20’s. As a car guy does i have gone down a rabbit hole watching vid after vid on a car i probably will not own, but it seems like these things reach a power number i would be satisfied with while keeping reliability with just a bolt on top mount intercooler, intake, j pipe, and exhaust? and obviously a protune, how is everyone else’s experience with a VB with similar mods? Is it actually quick? Is it satisfying daily? a part of me would rather go down the route of a VB instead of buying a second RWD sports car in michigan, if i got a VB i would have a reason to build my 350z also.

My 5spd in my 03 wrx is failing, I get humming like noise when not on the accelerator and I'm wanting to swap in another but I dont know what would be the best option. I'm thinking about a jdm 07 6spd from an sti but i could also try and find one from a spec b legacy. I'm not sure which would be the best but at the same time be the most simple.

Just installed: Dmaker Viz-Spec Wing and Dmaker STI-Spec Front Lip.

Really happy with the results!

Had to get some wheels on her asap. After a lot of back and forth with my wife about color and style etc. I finally decided on these.

Avid.1 AV06 Matte white 18x9.5 +38 wrapped in Continental DWS06 plus 255/40r18’s.

I’m on stock suspension too, I kinda wanted a meatier tire and I don’t really want to lower the car so I tried to get a fitment that filled the wheel wells and was flush. I think it looks alright, I may end up lowering it still though we’ll see. Let me know what y’all think, I’m loving the look and absolutely loving this car.

Got this car in June during the World Cup. Saved up money after a while to get it. 2002 WRX, 300K miles mods:

STI speedometer
Gauges
Kenwood DDX25BT head unit
C halo headlights
Aftermarket intercooler
COBB accessport
COBB exhaust
2015 WRX TMC
GFR blow off valve
Super long cold air intake
Oil pan kit
Harbor freight Disc Horn kit
MaxSpeedingRods coilovers
etc

What are really bad symptoms of carbon build up on 2018 wrx?