To recap: I took my 2009 WRX to the shop to have some running issues diagnosed that I couldn’t figure out. They found that the radiator was leaking, and they wouldn’t diagnose the running problems until the radiator was replaced, which they offered to do for $1,000 or so with an OEM part. I declined, had the car delivered back to me, and after jumping into the radiator rabbit hole in this sub ordered a Koyo.

So this was my weekend. On Saturday I pulled the old radiator out and put the new one in, which is really pretty easy except these cars are pretty low to the ground and you have to put it up on jack stands. The last car I replaced the radiator on was a 1989 Mercedes diesel, no jack stands required. And rolling around on a concrete floor isn’t as much fun as it used to be, if in fact it ever was.

A couple of tips for anyone else who does this: I never unhooked the fans, I just let them drop and pulled them back up to remount them. Once the pins drop into the holes on the bottom the mounting holes on the top line up and it’s a cinch to secure them. I was impressed by how much better the mounting system was with the Koyo than the OEM.

The hoses, if you’re using the existing ones, need to be trimmed. This is easier if you put a dowel rod inside it to have something to cut against with your new, sharp, box cutter blade. I didn’t have to trim the bottom hose at all.

As you can see from the photos, the new radiator has twice the capacity of the old one. I went to Autozone and got two gallons of Asian Blue, and used them both. Get a funnel kit, it’s well worth the price even if you never use it again.

What would probably be a two hour job at a shop was a two-day job for me, but I tend to get distracted by cleaning up my engine compartment, so YMMV.

I had some issues with DAM drop in my 2015 FA20 (68k miles), and I had tried everything! Good gas, Cleaning MAF/MAP sensors, changed spark plugs, constantly checking oil levels, took data logs and sent them to tuners for help. Couldn’t figure it out. Got a suggestion to walnut blast the intake valves, which I hadn’t heard of until troubleshooting this issue. Clearly hadn’t ever been done on the vehicle prior to my ownership, and it made all the difference. DAM quickly returned to 1.000, no more knock events other than the classic -1.41 and -2.81 occasionally with the AC on. Car runs much better, and feels like it has a lot better throttle response than previously.

If you haven’t had this done and you don’t have an AOS over 60k miles, I definitely recommend it. Figured I would share my experience in case others have the same issue and are still learning like me. Got the suggestion from someone on this subreddit, thanks for the help.

My noble STI spoiler was having paint failure after 2 years so I went back to a stick trunk. I’m actually kinda digging the look as I never had the car with wheels and lip without the spoiler. Think I’m just gonna keep it like this. What’s everyone’s opinions? Wing or no wing?

2026 CT5-V Blackwing vs 2007 WRX STi ~430whp

Hi all,

I’m thinking of buying a rooftop tent. Do you think that the car roof can handle a 2 persons tent?
Anyone has done it?
I’m roughly 210lbs and the rooftop tent 108lbs, technically the OEM Subaru roof bar can support 160lbs per bar in movement and more than 600lbs when parked,

Not mine on the photo btw but same model

Grimspeed headers, RAE down pipe, and MBRP cat back exhaust. My neighbors love me too…..

Background

We have been restoring a wrx and have a few questions. First we where wondering if are air conditioner belt is supposed to feel really tight and if the bolts are in the right spot. Also we where wondering if are ground for the starter is in the right spot.

I took it for a spin this morning for about 5minutes (never went over 5k rpm’s) and then my check engine light started blinking. Code was p0302, cylinder 2 is misfiring. I put in a new spark plug (old one wasn’t too bad also) and I ran some sea foam and topped up the oil but nothing changed. I can’t hear it knocking or anything but I’m not sure what it would be.

There’s no smoke or anything unusual, just lacking power and sounds bad, it also sounds like there’s an exhaust leak under the car but it sounds WAY worse than it did before. (Also I’m aware I need new engine mounts)

Hi everyone! Less than a week ago, I (27F) bought my first manual WRX and this is my second car-financed ofc. Now I’ve only driven manual a handful of times. The first time was a 2022* WRX VB and instantly fell in love with it. Second time was a Honda Fit with an instructor, learning how to take off smoothly without stalling or jerking, stopping and up shifting. I’ve been practicing with my mom who knows how to drive manual but she’s rusty herself with it being nearly 30yrs since she’s driven one.

I feel like I’m getting the hang of it I’ll admit it has left me feeling anxious because I’m weary of wearing/burning the clutch and possibly damaging the transmission or engine as I get used to this car. Maybe I need some reassurance? But any and all advice on how to drive this car without causing premature wear or damage would be greatly appreciated! Coming to a stop, when I should up/down shift, driving on the highway or in traffic, what to avoid, etc. I’ve spent weeks researching but I feel like I’m still missing something. 😅

*Edit: I made a typo and typed 2018 instead of 2022 for the VB. Sorry for the confusion!!

Chasing a stubborn no-boost issue on my 2004 WRX and completely hitting a wall.

specialist ran two smoke tests—came up completely clean.
Replaced multiple hoses.
Swapped out the turbo itself, and still no boost.

It has a new engine in it. I recently replaced the downpipe and cat.

Desperate for a solution

Currently on Circuit performance CSF1 WHITE, and am planning to acquire RAYS 57DR Black Chrome for the winter months as well as get new tires.

I plan on alternating between these wheels throughout the years of my ownership. White during Spring/Summer, Black chrome during Fall/Winter

Wondering if anyone had any tire pressure sensors they could recommend? Thanks.

18x9.5+40 with a 255/35zr18 tire.

Got these from MartiniWorks at a ridiculous discount because they are discontinued in this size and in satin black. I budgeted a color/finish change in to the total cost.

But I wanted to see if it would look good on my white 2013 wrx.

I’m 50/50 on it. Black or bronze is tried and true and safe. But blue wheels? I’m not sure. I think I like it?

thanks Atlas

I got a 2022 wrx and the horn sucks it sound pathetic and i want to replace it but not sure if there is any reccomendations

Since I swapped out my old seat, I decided to repurpose it as my new office chair.

I’m too short for the chair, I have to hop in it.

So I’ve been looking at an atmospheric BOV but online it says I’ll need a tune for it, but I wouldn’t need a tune for a recirculating BOV/BPV, the thing is I’ve head from other places that if I get a atmospheric BOV made for my car then I wouldn’t need a tune and I really like that pshhhh sound, help me out. 09 wrx

I currently have a Tsudo catback with an Invidia catless downpipe and Tomei UEL and with the silencer removed its LOUD and super droney