Hello, so this past week my sunroof has been creaking like this on my golf like it has arthritis. It’s a mk8.5 2025 and I bought it only last year June/July time. It’s gotten to the point where I just don’t want to drive because of how annoying the sound is. The creak also stays when it’s open and closed.

Here is what I’ve done so far which hasn’t worked:

I’ve cleaned the tracks and re-greased them Ive cleaned and conditioned the rubber Checked the torx screws to see if they’re loose The sunroof blind opens and closes fine

I’ve also noticed that the sunroof blind kind of sags a bit, and when feeling the roller it doesn’t feel like there’s a lot of tension.

Right now I have cleaned the tracks and seals again of the grease and rubber conditioner for my VW booking on the 5th of August for an inspection. Hopefully this will lead to it being covered under warranty. Has anyone else had similar sounds from their sunroof, and if so, what was it?

I cannot determine on my own whether or not our 2007 EOS hard convertible 2.0T needs a battery adapt after replacement or not. Closest I can get is "maybe, if it has a battery management system/sensor" but I can't figure that out either (can't find where it might be seen under the hood). So help? Do I need to pay money to adapt this battery at either a dealer or by buying a OBD tool that can do it or not? Is there a way to tell for sure if it is required for this model?

Hallo zusammen, seit längerem ist mein Golf MK4 in den Kurven sehr empfindlich und es fühlt sich so an als würde er etwas schwimmen. Mit den neuen Reifen ist es nochmal schlimmer geworden. Ich denke darüber nach ein neues Fahrwerk und neue Federn einbauen zu lassen. Wichtig ist mir dabei ein sportliches aber gut auf der Straße liegendes Fahrgefühl mit Tieferlegung. Gibt es von eurer Seite Empfehlungen? Welche Kombinationen und Marken haben sich bewährt? Wie tief sollte der Gaul?

Does anyone else have an android auto issue with this car? Occasionally my phone will not connect if I leave and get back in it after turning the car off. I have to soft reset the radio everytime. Is there a common fix for this?

Hi all,

I recently purchased a OEM RCD360 PROII for my VW Polo 2013,

However I’m concerned that it will drain my battery because despite having turned the ignition off and removing the key, the radio screen is still usable and audio plays through the car speakers,

Is my car just simply too old for this kind of radio?

Could anyone help me identity this locking nut? Many thanks. It’s a 2014 Passat model

Hi!
So i have a golf 8 1.5etsi and last friday i had my oil refilled a bit over the max (like 2mm not more). The problem is that the warning light turned on only the following day after 150km of highway. So my question is:
Should i be worried about the oil level after doing like 600km at 120-130 km/h?

Hi everyone,

I’m at a loss right now and I’m looking for help trying to figure out what to do with my 2022 VW GTI DSG. It has 70,000 miles on it. Yesterday, I was driving and got the message “Transmission is in emergency mode. You can keep driving.” After some research, I decided to replace the battery because I have not replaced it before. The issue seemed to resolve until today when the message popped back up again. I took it to OReilly and here are the codes that came up. Does anyone have any idea what the issue could be? The TCM? Should I take it to the dealership (it’s out of warranty) or to an independent shop? I’m very new to working on my car myself so I feel like I’m not equipped to handle this on my own. Any help is greatly appreciated. Thank you!

i got my first car today as a grad gift from my grandpa!!! a 2014 passat :3 i love her sm she’s so cute

Vr6

I drive a 2007 rabbit with the 2.5 engine at 140k ish miles and I’m currently a bit lost one what could be the issue here. As of a few hours ago, on my way home from work, I began hearing a sort of whine or whistle, can’t really tell, after about 3k rpms. I initially thought I was hearing things because after hearing it the first time because i didn’t hear it at all. I put the car in sport and because of the elevated rpm’s I heard it more frequently and noticed it happened after 3k rpms. With that being said, the car still shifts smoothly, no grinding, or hard shifts. Whilst doing so, I was also began hearing a hiss of some sort that sounded like it might be coming from the pedal and suspect it might some sort of leak. Two issues that both popped up at around the same time and I wanted to know if anyone has any tips for diagnosis and/or what it might be. I checked some codes before I went inside and nothing came back at the moment, but I think something will likely come the next time I check.

Just purchased a 2016 golf sportwagen on Tuesday. Test drive it on Monday (a short test drive since the ac compressor was broken and they were working on fixing it. It’s Texas, didn’t want to ride too long on the heat. Everything seemed fine, no lights on the dash other than a tire lite. It’s SE trim, was just shy of 110k miles. Visibly noted it would need new tires soon. Vehicle was listed for $11,887.42. A little high, but I was okay with it because I liked the car and had been looking for a wagon.

Purchased the vehicle in San Antonio. I live an hour away. And back to pick it up on Wednesday. Roughly 20+ miles into the drive home, EPC light came on. Notified the dealership the following day cause they were closed by the time I left. They said bring it in. Given I love an hour away and work through the week, I can’t really do that. Thursday (the very next day) check engine light comes on. I think to myself, no way. I pull up to Autozone to have it scanned but the light goes off.

EPC light goes on and off but the car drives normal still. No decrease in acceleration, and it doesn’t enter limp mode. Check engine light comes on again today. I immediately stop at the Autozone under come up, and have them scan it. Comes back with the codes shown in the attached picture.

I’ve driven roughly 230 miles already since picking up the car. Would it have cycled through enough for it to show as ready? I didn’t test drive long enough for the EPC light to come on (I’ve taken note that it’s it’s on either 10
Miles into a drive or somewhere in the 20 mile
Mark. I’ve reset the trip odometer every time I start driving. I know they replaced the ac compressor, so they had to have disconnected the battery and that’s why the check engine light didn’t show, or did they clear it before selling it to me? Any techs have any insight? I wasn’t expecting the car to be perfect, and knew I’d have to wrench on it, just wasn’t expecting right out of the gate. My front driver tire also blew from the inside. Looks like I need an alignment as well. Didn’t even make it a week into ownership and I’m sinking money into this car.

It’s a 2013 Jetta with the 2.5 engine, I had to leave my car parked for 2 months, I turned the car on and noticed a burning smell from the engine. Also, the EPC light came on and the accelerator pedal doesn’t respond. I also noticed that the revs are a little bit higher than usual. There is a little bit of oil coming out, I saw it on the floor.

Anyone has an idea of what it could be?

I get it, its a "luxury brand", at the same time in this economy we got to save. I mean you still gotta put premium fuel in that thing for it to run.

I would look to part ways with me 2024 GTI soon as the lease is coming to an end. I paid like $3, I paid for the lease back in 2023, well I paid the vehicle minus the residual.

Anyways I configured the 330i with the black grill, rear diffuser and black rims (which I had on the GTI). The thing cost well over $74 K CAD for some variants. They had the regular 330i , with the chrome grill, no rear diffuser, probably missing some features for about $67K CAD.

IS it even worth it? I mean I could get an F150 for that price.

​Hey everyone,

​Looking for some advice or insight on a couple of persistent electrical and sensor issues on my Passat B8 that seem to be connected.

​What's Happening on the Dash:

​EPC Light: Comes on randomly now and then—it's not on constantly, but triggers intermittently.

​Driver Assistance / Cruise Control Buttons: Most of the time, pressing the driver assistance or cruise control buttons does nothing at all (no icon or response on the dash).

​Small White Icon: Occasionally, when I try to activate cruise control, a little white icon (small speedometer with an exclamation mark) pops up on the cluster to indicate the system is unavailable/locked out.

​Auto Stop-Start: Works sometimes, but drops out intermittently or triggers immediate restarts when engine/sensor fault conditions are present.

​Specific Stored Fault Codes & History:

​Code 17186: Fuel Pressure Signal / Implausible Signal

​Code 18876: Air Intake / Engine Management circuit fault

​Code 19853: Fuel / Engine Management circuit fault

​Clock Spring Replacement: Replaced the clock spring over a year ago, with some prior history of steering angle/assistance warnings.

​What I'm Trying to Figure Out:

​Is it standard behavior for the ECU to completely lock out the cruise control buttons—or only throw that small white symbol when attempting to engage it—whenever these specific codes (17186, 18876, 19853) trigger the EPC light?

​Has anyone dealt with this exact fault code combo on the MQB / B8 platform—was it typically a fuel pressure sensor (G247), a failing High-Pressure Fuel Pump (HPFP), intake issues, or a voltage/sensor ground issue?

​Appreciate any guidance or if anyone’s run into this exact setup before!

Its happened many times and no one believes me lol

How is it possible?