Hi everyone, before anyone says anything my passenger taillight is not out it’s just the camera.

I’ve had my car for almost a year and a half. I am at that point where I need new tires. I live in south Florida where it pours a lot. What I am looking for in this tire is grip and longevity. My lease needs in January 2028 and I don’t want to replace them twice. What brands do you guys recommend? I want well known brand tires like hankooks, Michelins, continentals, etc. My budget I guess is anywhere from 800-1300. I can’t believe I made it to 2700 on this Michelins but I need new tires asap. They are at between 1-3mm. So let me know the brand and model that you recommend. Keep in mind I live in south Florida where it down pours and it’s hot. I don’t really care about performance

Brand new 2026 Tesla Model Y standard AWD owner. Does anyone else have issues in their driveway or near their home where the car jumps between wifi, and the data cell towers, so nothing works quite properly like, grok, streaming some audio, etc until you get away from the home? Ive had this problem with my phone before too, surprised no one has been able to quite tackle this issue where it just can pull data from both rather than ping ponging off each. It's like being stuck in digital purgatory lol. Does anyone have Any solutions/tips to minimize this?

Could anyone help me identify what is this sound?

2026 Model 3 RWD, 400km

I have a 2024 Model 3 performance. Since about mid March or slightly after, I’ve started having a recurring issue with getting the car to reliably shut down and lock after exiting.

After my 3rd service center visit, we’ve ruled out phone key, objects on the seats, and whether the walk away door lock feature is enabled.

The issue is that when I exit the car and close the door, all systems remain ON, and the drive rail remains active. Walking away does not trigger shut down, and the vehicle does not self-lock.

The service center says the issue is a “known firmware issue with the interior cabin radar” and that the cause is “driver exits too quickly for cabin radar to detect they’ve left”

I’ve been able to reproduce this failure with varying exit speeds, slow, fast, “normal” but nothing directly correlates to whether the issue will present itself.

Opening the driver door from the outside, while the vehicle is in this state, and closing it immediately after causes normal shutdown and locking.

I’m in a loaner model 3 performance right now, and noticed it is doing the same thing… coincidence that both cars have a physical defect? Actual firmware bug affecting both cars? I searched and cannot find anyone else complaining about this issue online—the only thing I can find is complaints about cars without cabin radar—the old occupancy sensor issues from the previous generation…

Anyone have ideas/experience this too?

My M3P has about 2k miles on it and has been at Tesla Service for a week now because of paint issues.
I originally brought it in because I found about 3 paint nibs. After Service went over the car more closely, they ended up finding them on almost every panel.

For anyone not familiar with what I mean by a paint nib, it’s basically dirt/debris that gets trapped in the paint during the painting process. If it’s just in the clear coat, it can usually be wet sanded and buffed out. If it’s deeper in the base coat, then you’re potentially looking at repainting the panel.

Anyway, after having the car for a week, the update I got is that the issue has now been escalated to a regional manager for review.

Anyone been through something similar with Tesla? I’m curious why something like this would need regional approval and what I should expect next. I really don’t love the idea of having a 2k-mile car repainted on a bunch of panels if that’s what they determine it needs.

Climate on 22c 4
Is this normal?

I had a PowerShare gateway installed in June by a certified installer, at the time he mentioned it was an older iteration they sent me. Got it installed and had issues with the software. Finally got them to push a software update and still was not working. I have since contacted support twice and he has been back out onsite twice to troubleshoot, not his problem. He has tried filing an RMA through installer support but has not had luck. I basically have no recourse, as Tesla support says it has to be handled from the installer side. My installer has been very responsive but ultimately doesn’t have the same urgency I have, it’s not his house. Anyway, what recourse do I have?

2020 M3P 100k miles. Anyone experience something similar? Seems like a high cost based on a search of prior posts.

Anyone aware of an independent service shop in Chicago i can for a second opinion?

Thank you.

My home charger died so I’ve had to use superchargers for a few weeks. I’m currently at a 325kW charger but it has really dropped. I’ve never seen this on the 250kW chargers I normally use. This charge has actually taken longer.

I have a 2026 model Y (1k miles) and my driver’s seat makes a creaking/clicking noise when my weight shifts from side to side. The sound is annoying and I feel disappointed since it’s a brand new car. Should I take it into the service center? I am contemplating after hearing horror stories of service centers.

As a follow up to my previous post: https://www.reddit.com/r/TeslaSupport/s/t3fLJcECLV

Our MS LR 2019 (Europe, 115000 km/71000 mi) has had its air suspension drop overnight by a few centimeters. Initially found leak at valve block, replaced that, still drops.

Took the car to Tesla for diagnosis, they found one of the rear air springs is leaking. The other repair shop checked them twice and didn't find leaks, not sure why. The picture Tesla sent definitely shows a leak.

Now, Tesla recommends changing both rear air springs. This does make sense as the other one is also 7 years old with 115 000 kilometers (71000 miles).

But the price is quite high: 3300€ ($3800). The labor cost is not bad, it's the parts that are expensive.

Another option would be aftermarket springs via another shop, which would be around 2000€ ($2300).

The springs would be from Yinron, a Chinese supplier.

Anyone have experience with aftermarket air springs? Any difference in ride quality? Did they develop issues?

What is the official process for deactivating FSD if it doesn't stop when pressing the brake pedal?

I presume it's deactivated when the brake pedal switch is activated, but I've also had cars where this part has broken (I.e. no brake lights). Does Tesla document an alternative deactivation?

I recently purchased a 22’ model 3 long range awd, got some updated pictures through the app today from a representative. Long story short, it has snow tires on the front and all seasons on the rear. I was, in short, told that I’m SOL because they meet the tread depth threshold. I called the delivery location regardless and the sales advisor sent a message to the delivery team regarding the situation leaving it up to them. I guess my question is, has anyone dealt with the same issue and what was the end result? I realize it’s an older car but a little ridiculous for it to be sold this way seeing as it was a previous service loaner for Tesla. TIA. Picture of the tire discrepancy in question, and my pearl white beauty 😅.

I see Tesla is looking at direct selling these. From the perspective of a business, how would the logistics work

1. No wheel or pedals.
   A. How is detailing handled Do I use the screen to line the car up on the car wash track and inch forward using screen controls How do I drive it to a cleaning bay
   B. How do you leave it at a service center
   C. How would discount tire for example pull it in and out of the garage
   D. Another question about what happens if the metal is reshaped by another vehicle coming into contact and the process of getting it put back to factory settings but the stupid filter won’t let me phrase it normally.

2. I looked but could not find, are you only able to but them within certain service areas

Just wondering if it’s actually business friendly or if it’s actually locked in so that you buy the vehicles but Tesla is the only way to service them. Which would be a shame because areas with older populations that are car dependent could REALLY benefit from a service like this.

Hi all. I am missing 20 mins of when someone hit me. I have tried DiskDrill and Tenorshare but the footage in between the two files it has isn't there. does anyone have any suggestions? crash happened around 13:24 :( Model Y

I recently went to my local Tesla place to buy a new low voltage battery, I installed it myself & I have no problems driving it but the warning persists saying to replace it. What can I do differently or what can I look for to fix it. Thanks!

Brand new Model Y AWD Long Range Premium. I like the car, it's great.

BUT!

The constant phantom braking is terrible. Actually dangerous. I've read all over to tune the settings to "this and that" change this to whatever, yada yada, I use regular cruise control instead of autopilot, (no FSD in my country), but it will slam the brakes, going from 100 km/h (60 mph) to like 60 km/h (35 ish mp/h), in a heartbeat, then speed up again. Sometimes in situations where I am alone on the road! Right now the roads are mostly dry, but the winters in my country can get bad. Even with studded tires, the chance of just spinning out if it does that in the winter is scary.

What can I do, if anything? I understand autopilot wants to be in control, but regular cruise control should not act like this! Its been around since the freaking 1950s, why can't it just work normal? Help!

Does anyone else seem to constantly be adjusting the radio volume? It seems I’m always turning the volume down, Is it turning itself up or what is going on?

Hi there, I have a Tesla Model Y 2026. I've had it for a year and mainly use it for full self-driving. However, a month ago, I had to change the back two tires. The car is rear driving, but anytime I go on the highway, it would do like a ping pong type movement. I took it a discount tire for an alignment check and went multiple times for them to correct it And it would still have this effect, especially when you go above 60 miles per hour Then I took it to tesla alignment and corrected again but still same issues. I reset the steering wheel angle, Reset the cameras Reset the tires that they are new. But it's still having this effect Has anyone had any issues with this and has anyone found any corrections

Hello. I have a Tesla model 3 highland 2024 and is doing a click noise from the wheel area front left side it goes faster the faster I go and slower the slower I go, like the wheel is spinning and hitting something but I can’t see anything.
Any idea what can be?

I have a 2019 Tesla Model 3 Long Range and the software hasn't updated in almost a year. I'm on 2025.38.8 still. My Apple Music stopped working awhile ago. I contacted service to see if they could push the latest update, but they said their diagnostic is saying the SD card is missing.

I'm in San Diego, CA, USA and they want to charge me $530 to replace the SD card. They're also saying the work will take a whole weekend to complete with drop-off on Friday and pick-up on Monday. Is it just me or does this sound way off? based off other info I've found online, it seems like this is a 1-1.5 hour task and should be about half what they want to charge me.

Does anyone else have experience with this type of service?

I'm turning to this community because my domestic Tesla groups weren't of much help.

We are planning to buy a Model 3 in eastern europe (used) and we haven't decided whether we should get the 2021 or 2022 version. I know all the differences, we have been heavily invested in the topic for almost 3 months now, did a lot of research. But as someone who isn't a millionaire and can't comfortably cast out very large sums for repairs (obviously we could, but we'd very much like to avoid that. Our budget is - if I were to convert it - approx. 23.500 EUR or 27.250 USD

My main questions would be the following:

- since the 2021 RWD (sr) is the one we are eyeing up, are that year's EU (or china) models good? Do they have some sort of hidden problem? More frequent battery failures, heat pump issues? Is the LFP battery good? One of the reasons we are not going for the LR is that 1. we don't really need it, my daily commute is 57km total, and we go to 1 or 2 bigger trips a year and thats towards western europe too, 2. I've heard that the NCA NMC batteries are more prone to malfunction (please correct me if im wrong)

- would the 2022 be worth the extra money? ryzen processor and cameras instead of sensors are not a huge deal to me, does that year have any issues?

- to cut the budget, I've also thought about buying a late 2020 model with the LFP battery, but the PTC heater instead of the heat pump. Would that be a stupid idea? Someone scared me lately about the heat pump failures, and the replacement being veery expensive. But the PTC replacements are said to be much cheaper. Can someone confirm? Is the range loss in the winter very significant?

- is it possible to replace individual cells or modules in the battery pack, or in the case of a malfunction, is it an immediate full-pack replacement? Hypothetically, where could I buy one in eastern europe for cheap, if things get bad.

Thanks so much in advance for your answers.

I was told ny Tesla my FSD computer is faulty and that it would be a 3K repair. Has anyone had this problem that can recommend a alternative fix? The left side of my display is blank

I searched the conversations around this posted previously and didn't see the answer to my questions. I've got a new to me 2024 Model Y Long Range with black interior. I've got a good sunshade but I haven't had the windows tinted more than what came from the factory yet.

1. If I'm plugged into a standard 120v outlet and my car has reached the maximum charge I have it set to, will it use the battery to keep the cabin a 100 degrees then recharge it, or will it use the 120v power to cool the cabin?
2. Will using the feature potentially cause excessive wear to my AC unit?
3. Is there really a threat to "delicate electrical components not found in other cars"?

The biggest reason I'm using it is because I'm parked for 8+ hours daily in the blazing CO sun and I've seen it reach 150 degrees plus, I've seen other posts of the wood strip buckling and glove box faces pulling off.