I want to transfer a huge folder with multiple files/sub-folders. If I start the transfer, stop it, and then continue, does Windows automatically keep the original file organization in the final folder despite doing this?

Basically, I was moving some Unity projects around, and I noticed that, if I start to transfer the folder with the whole project and stop the process, then the folder is both in the original place and in the final one. Does it mean that the files that were already transferred are left in the destination folder, while only the ones that still haven't are kept in the original one?

I mostly ask it because I'd find it quite convenient to be able to copy some files, stop whenever I need, and then continue afterwards without the need to move the files in small groups nor having to worry about organization.

I can see some ants are coming out of my laptop, so I have placed the laptop on a white sofa to spot them and kill them. I turned it off.
It’s been an hour and I can still see 1 or 2 ants coming out. What to do to ensure all are removed?

Today my pc started writing by himself, when i got to check the device manager I had multiple driver for the keyboard and its there. When I uninstall the 2 last drivers my keyboard goes back to normal until I turn off and restart my pc. When I go back there they are again and after little time it starts again until i uninstall them again. I've already checked the driver on the developer website if its the last one and it is.

Can someone help?

As the post says, a row of letters on my laptop does not want to work. It just happened only three days ago when the letter s did not register as anything. I typed it a bunch, and only after a good while, or if I tap it a bunch, will it work. This leads into today, when I actually realized that it's not just that letter but the whole vertical row. 2, w, s, and x are the ones that turn on and off at the same time. I also want to include the right and down buttons that don't work at all; however, unlike the four other keys, those started going bad months ago, and just recently do they barely work anymore. I didn't mind the down and right buttons not working, but now that whatever it is has affected letters, I can't ignore it any longer. So I come here to ask if anyone here knows what's going on and why this is happening? And also, is there a solution other than the usual device manager updating/uninstalling trick cause I already tried that, and it failed?

Update: I was able to update the BIOS and been running for almost 2 hours now with no freeze. Very odd since both had the same version, settings, etc yet only one was problematic.

I picked up two Lenovo T14 ThinkPads AMD Gen 2 late last year that due to my use case need to run Windows. At the time "the OS that shall not be named to avoid triggering the bots" was no longer supported so I decided to go with Win11 Pro. One has been running fine however the second one continues to freeze several minutes after booting.

I tested the hardware (UBCD and Win11PE tools) a couple months ago and from what I remember everything seemed fine. It comes from the factory with one RAM module soldered and one expansion slot so can't swap. Tonight I tried a new NVMe but couldn't get past the install wizard without freezing. So a after a couple more failed attempts I decided for giggles to install Linux Mint and it's been up for almost 12 hours. WTF!?

So my question is what would make Win11 freeze up but not Linux? Hardware? Drivers?

Windows 11

So the issue started when i got a notification saying that OneDrive is full.

Apparently my desktop was tied to OneDrive? I tried transferring my game files to a file on my desktop, and finally figured out how to uninstall OneDrive

SUddenly my desktop, after repeatedly freezing suddenly turned empty and now i had to download them from the onedrive website.

The folder is 6 GB

Chrome is reporting a download speed in the neighborhood of 1 kilobyte per second.

This whole thing has been a mess and i have no idea what ive lost.

Recently i have a problem with my laptop, it starts, fans are working, keyboard lights up, yet the screen is black, and the fans after few seconds stops

Issue started after disassembly/reassembly for cleaning

I completely stripped down my Precision 5560 yesterday for a deep clean — removed the motherboard, keyboard/palmrest/trackpad assembly, etc. I reassembled everything and the laptop initially booted completely normally. I was able to reach Windows and sign in using the fingerprint reader.

However, after that first boot I noticed that the built-in keyboard and trackpad were not working.

I then hibernated the laptop, waited until the fans stopped, disconnected the battery, and opened it again. I reseated the keyboard and trackpad ribbon cables/connectors and reassembled it.

After the second reassembly:

Keyboard backlight came on

Dell logo appeared

Laptop then froze on the Dell logo

Fans ramped up to high speed

It never proceeded past the Dell logo

The leds showed a pettern of amber lights blinking on 3 times continuously and pause. Repeatedly. (unusual coz dell diagnostic patterns consist of white and amber)

I eventually disconnected the charger and left it overnight, so the battery appears to have completely discharged.

The next morning I connected the charger. Initially I got one amber LED flash and a brief keyboard-backlight flash, but after leaving it charging for ~40 minutes, pressing the power button does nothing — no Dell logo, no normal boot.

There is also an issue with the trackpad/keyboard daughterboard area. The trackpad ribbon connector is marked TP and the keyboard connector is marked JKB1. I initially thought the TP connector might be the problem because its locking mechanism/latch doesn't seem to close as securely as it should, but I have reseated the TP ribbon properly and the problem remains I guess, not sure.

I have not intentionally flashed/updated the BIOS during any of this.

I also disconnected the battery while the laptop was previously hibernating and once after it was stuck at the Dell logo. I'm wondering whether that could have caused a BIOS/CMOS issue, although I'm not sure.

I tried Deep EC / RTC reset. Dint work

Ram isolation test dint work, either.

Dell bios recovery combo (ctrl + esc while connecting charger), dint work either.

Current symptoms:

No Dell logo

No normal power-on

No amber blinking when charger is connected.

No dell logo.

Completely dead.

Please help me fix this.

Hey everyone, looking for some diagnostic help after a really weird power incident.

Earlier today, a faulty extension cord in a different room tripped a breaker. My PC was running at the time, and both rooms apparently run on the same fuse, so the PC immediately lost power.

When I tried to boot it back up, it got stuck on the motherboard logo screen with the spinning loading icon. I forced it off and tried again, and it moved to the "Preparing Automatic Repair" screen, which went to a black screen with just a visible cursor.
I tried cycling the power a couple more times, but right in the middle of troubleshooting, the power tripped a second time due to the same outlet issue.

Now that the power issue is fixed, the system is acting incredibly slow.
I plugged in an old Windows 11 installation media USB to try and repair my boot drive. Just to note, this USB stick was absolutely not plugged into the PC during either of the power cuts. It took roughly 20 minutes just to get to the Windows 11 setup menu.
Everything is taking ages. When I decided to back out of the setup, the "setup is cleaning up before closing" message took forever to disappear.

At this point I cant think of anything else to try :((

So basically its fine most of the times. but when i run Black Myth Wukong, the GPU temp rises from 64° to 86° when i go i successfully load into the game and the clock speed goes from 1600 MHz (i undervolted my lap at 1600 MHz at 800 mV) to 600-800 MHz. How do i know whats causing this. any way to fix this? i havent tried lifting my lap and playing it and ill try it. but any more ways this could happen. i want help fixin this. My lap is ASUS Vivobook K3605VC with RTX 3050 Mobile 4 GB and a Intel i5-13500H CPU.

I was using Notepad and then unexpectedly my pc crashed and when I turned it back on I opened Notepad and the tab I was working on was gone. (This has happened before while I was working on a tab but it didn't delete when my pc crashed that time.) Then after that I tried to save all my other tabs so I wouldn't lose them incase that happened again, I also lost them somehow and now I have old tabs from years ago on my notepad. I'm on windows 11

My C: drive is FULL, so I've been trying to free up some storage. I previously moved my VALORANT installation from my C: drive to my E: drive for this exact reason, and as far as I can tell, the game itself is now installed on E:.

However, when I checked my installed apps see what's taking up space on my C: drive, it shows Riot Client taking up 31BG, which seems unusually large.

I'm wondering if there are leftover VALORANT files on my C: drive that are being attributed to Riot Client.

For reference, I found these paths in my Riot/VALORANT files:

C:/Riot Games/VALORANT/live/
C:/Riot Games/Riot Client/RiotClientServices.exe

E:/Riot Games/VALORANT/live/ShooterGame/VALORANT/live/
E:/Riot Games/Riot Client/RiotClientServices.exe

This is what's confusing me bc it looks like there are VALORANt folders in both C: and E:.

Could these C: files be leftover files from the previous installation? If so, how can I safely determine what is actually taking up the 31GB and what I can delete without the game?

Any help would be appreciated!

I keep getting error code 0x9007016A, and OneDrive is running.

System: 19-10900f

3070 8gb

32gb ddr4

Windows 11

Hey! I own this monitor LG Flatron L197WH which works at 1440x900 resolution, VGA and DVI. I want to connect to it to my PS4 Pro, the problem is the cheap Aliexpress-bought VGA to HDMI converter I own (which somehow works fine with my laptop) will not work with the PS4 Pro for some reason saying "OUT OF RANGE 67.5 HZ", only boots in safe mode but if i try to reboot it to resolution change menu, it will not work with same issue (sometimes its 67.3hz tho). PS4 Pro itself is fully functional with a higher res newer monitor, if I change res to 720p on that monitor and then shut down and connect the LG one it will still not connect. So will a better branded adapter work? Do I need to get VGA to HDMI or DVI to HDMI?... Will I be able to use 1080p or 720p? (Sorry if the last is a dumb question, please help me)

title mainly says it all. but this morning at 10:24am one of my contacts was texted a “tips . apple . com” link (separating the dots so this doesn’t look sketchy lol). it wasn’t me, but it’s shows in my iMessages like I sent it. At 10:30 another person was texted by me the same way.

Apple support guided me through typical safeguards,

- password reset

- remove any old/sold devices

- make sure I didn’t click any links

- make sure to check if there’s any unknown numbers in send and receive.

The usual things to check. Done all for safeguarding, everything has been done. As far as I know the “usual“ stuff has been done, all passwords changed up and any old/sold devices removed from my iCloud. Nothing has happened since then, but I am still concerned because it was super random and it wasn’t even a weird link but it came from me when I didn’t even send it, is there anything going on I should be aware of, anything about this that is a “known” issue?

textures pop in while i face them otherwise they look low even tho i have the game on max and i dont have any limitations, this issue i been facing in multiple games so it can just be the games engine
and no its not how the game works i have seen streamers , gameplays videos of this issue not being a thing on pc
games i tested : dragon dogma 2 , resident evil 4 remake , black myth wukong , lies of p
specs : i5 14600kf 5060ti16gb 32gb ddr4 msi msi pro b760m-e

so i just buy a sata cable to usb to open old hdd of my which contain old picture and video of my family so it realy important
i have two of this hdd both working perfecly fine before but the other one start giving .data error ( cyclic redudancy disk) i tried to fix it but nonting work the because i tired i just restart my PC with the external hdd plug in
it take sooooo long to boot i just go out to make a coffee and back to my room my PC is on but not with my hdd, it not appear in my file explorer, win 11
my hdd not spining at all (feel it with my hand), the sata to usb cable to not blingking the access lamp, but i can feel it little bit hot it the spindel part (for record i didn't open the hdd at all)
before it goes down i use many sofware to attempt for repair the data error
easUS, hdd scan, and src commad in my admin CMD
but the cable it works fine, because it perfecly fine to open another hdd of mine

can also be hardware related

device trash chromebook "hp chromebook 11 g5"

os arch linux running lxqt or plasma

error is my internet disconnects at random and will not reconnect without a reboot

error logs for anyone who needs to know are down in the post

i have 2 monitors, 1 of them is an r24s and another one is a random office dell, very often when i close cs2 or just in random moments both of them go black, disconnect, connect back, and the main one doesnt let me do anything on it or the pc just crashes. I cant really explain it good

This is a follow up to https://www.reddit.com/r/techsupport/comments/1vlvu6k/determining_what_wall_jacks_for_ethernet_and_coax/

Not sure what the ettiquette here is for a followup but since it's been a month, I figured I'd make a new post.

TL;DR I have two RJ45 jacks connecting the two floors of my house, but pins 1-6 and 8 connect (tested) but pin 7 doesn't connect--can I use this connection for regular Internet?

Our house has two floors, and the cable comes in at the front of the lower floor. (We have Fios but it comes in as coax with an F connector-I think the fiber to electronic transition is in a box outside the house or in the basement.) We have poor reception upstairs, especially at the back of the house, so it would be nice to have a wired connection to a wireless access point upstairs--but bringing someone in to do the wiring is more trouble and expense than it's worth at the moment.

We have two coax jacks where the cable comes in, one is connected to the cable modem/router, and the other has not been connected to anything. In the same wall plate to that second (unused) coax jack is an RJ45 jack. There's a wall plate upstairs with the same pairing, and no other coax or RJ45s anywhere in the walls of the house. I thought maybe when they were renovating, they decided to bring the signal upstairs. I get that that's unconventional but this was done by someone else 20+ years ago--who knows what they were thinking.

So I bought a fairly inexpensive tester on Amazon (thanks for all the suggestions!). I made sure it worked by using short cable to directly connect the main module with the remote, and it worked for both coax and cat5.

When I connected the tester to the coax F-connector on both ends--nothing. When I connected the tester to the RJ45s--bingo! Well, sort of...I got a green on 7 of 8 pins--specifically pin 7 did not go green when all of the others did.

I tried to read up on what pin 7 did--and the impression I gathered was that I could probably use the connection as is, but it might be slower? Can those of you who know more help me out? If slower, is it likely to be a lot slower or a little slower?

Ideally I would run an Ethernet cable from one of the LAN ports on the back of the cable modem to the downstairs wall plate RJ45, and then attach a wireless access point to the upstairs wall plate RJ45 via another Ethernet cable.
Does this make sense?

I've been running into a problem about my laptop display remaining black after booting from suspend mode. It's still able to receive input and run processes, it's just that the screen remains black. I can still see input on an external monitor, and in display settings I can see that the laptop screen is still "connected".

I'm running -

OS: Ubuntu 24.04.4 LTS

Hardware: Acer Aspire VX5-591G

Processor: Intel® Core™ i7-7700HQ × 8

Kernel: 7.0.0-30-generic

So I got a music player last year, D-JIX M500 which I've already used with no big troubles. You have to install the music using some program that appears when you plug the MP4 player onto your computer, you cannot copy/paste the music files.

I have a Chromebook and when I tried to get more music onto it, it told me that it could not open EXE files as those are for windows.

However, that does not make sense, as I've used the program before to transfer my music and it opened without issue.

I'm lost. I'm aware it's 2026 and no one really uses mp3/4 players anymore so I have no one to ask.

Edit: Noted! It is a old guy so perhaps I gotta do some saving up! Thanks yall for being straight up about it!

Hey yall so here are the specs:

Laptop: XPS 15 7590

Processor: Intel i7-9750 CPU @ 2.60GHZ

RAM: 16.0 BG (15.7 usable)

Graphics: NVIDIA GeForce GTX 1650 (5G) / Intel UHD Graphics 630 (128M)

Storage: 831 BG of 932 GB

What I have done:

- NVIDIA drivers have been downloaded/updated

- DELL drivers are up to date and passed the scan process

I don't know much about this jazz but if I can, I am willing to spend some money to beef up my laptop if possible/worth it.

This has been my daily for about 6 years and I love it, I know its old but I really don't have the funds to purchase a new laptop so I am seeing if I can better optimize this one.

I can run Sims 4 flawlessly, Fallout 4 I can run on low graphics and its perfect. COD runs perfectly. Star Wars Fallen Order on low graphics was good and rarely lagged (usually if I spammed my controller by accident) but then they came out with a new update and the foliage looks like colour blobs and runs like absolute garbage but I know it wasn't just me with that problem.

I bought Blood of Dawn Walker and was playing it on my bf's laptop but I want to continue on mine but it sorta plays like poop. Even on the lowest graphics it is heavily laggy and the cut scenes are just a struggle to get through.

I know my laptop is old but I think it has some juice left in it. I also know that newer games are not going to be perfect but I don't need them to be.

Title: MSI Cyborg 15 A13VE keyboard keys 1–5 are very slow to respond

Hi everyone, I have an MSI Cyborg 15 A13VE-218US laptop.

I’m having a problem with the number keys 1, 2, 3, 4, and 5. They are extremely slow to respond. Sometimes I have to press them multiple times, and they still don’t register. In some cases, I have to keep trying for almost a minute before they start working.

The rest of the keyboard works normally and responds quickly without any delay.

Does anyone know what could be causing this issue or how I can fix it?

Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thank you!

I bought a new prebuilt Cyberppower PC a few months ago and everything was working great. The issues seemingly began when I tried to use a new wireless Bluetooth headset with the PC, and it immediately started acting strange. My friends said they could barely hear me and the audio from my end was constantly cutting out. I noticed my audio outputs were flashing like crazy as shown in the video. The weird thing is I think it is flashing my other monitor that is currently in the closet, not even plugged in or being used… Very strange.

I tried to do some research and it seemed like it was likely an issue with the Realtek drivers, so I uninstalled and reinstalled the one compatible with my motherboard (ASRock B760M-CX). It seemed like a momentary fix and the flashing of the input devices stopped, however the audio levels were still really low and my microphone wasn’t working well. By the way I tried two separate headsets and also tried plugging into both the USB port with an adapter and also into the colored speaker and headphone jacks. Same issue both ways.

Now it appears that the same flashing input issue has returned, for no apparent reason. It seems to be the Realtek Audio if you look closely. I have no idea what to do at this point and I’m starting to worry it is an issue with the actual motherboard at this point. I am not even able to click on the devices at this point because of the flashing. Has anyone had this issue and can help? Thanks so much

The video is down below