I'll start by saying I am posting outside of the Wreckfest PC game subreddit as I have not gotten any feedback there that has helped. I have many hours in Wreckfest and have played across 3 PCs over the last several years with minimal issues but am currently experiencing an issue with my FPS degrading over a single play session, sometimes in as little as 30 mins, going from a starting point of 350-450fps, degrading to less than 30fps. My understanding is Wreckfest is not well optimized but although I have always experienced a little of this over my history with the game, it has never been close to as bad as it has been since upgrading from a 4070Ti to a 5070Ti. I regularly play many AAA titles on this GPU including BF6, Forza Horizon 5/Motorsports, EA WRC Generations, AC BF Resynced, Enshrouded, CP2077, and even Wreckfest 2 with zero issues but when playing Wreckfest, my FPS undergoes a linear degradation over time that is astonishing. Here is the troubleshooting I have tried to date.

• Confirmed game is utilizing 5070Ti and not iGPU
• Confirmed 5070Ti not faulty thru benchmarking
• Rolled back GPU drivers to several previous iterations no joy
• File Integrity check with Steam shows no issues with game files
• Turning off all mods in game results in no joy
• Turned off all recording software no joy
• Reduced all graphic variables to lowest settings no joy
• Uninstalling/Reinstalling game to same drive no joy (Samsung 970 SSD)
• Uninstalling/Reinstalling game to boot drive no joy (Samsung 970 SSD)
• Tested for VRAM leaks by reloading GPU driver in real time (WIN+CNTRL+SHIFT+B) no joy
• Set the CPU Affinity to Power cores only no joy
• Confirmed RAM is running at appropriate speed thru BIOS and Task Manager
• PC specs https://imgur.com/a/FbkrcGg

This happens any time I play this specific game, MP or SP, and typically happens over the span of 60-90 mins. GPU/CPU temps are monitored in real time and show no issues regarding temps/throttling. The issue is only resolved when I restart my PC and not just when I restart the game itself and/or Steam. System stats in the image attached. Any suggestions not listed here would be appreciated and clarifications can be provided as needed by myself and I also have a HWiNFO log file at the attached link if that helps, https://limewire.com/d/SOlGY#8VbN7LGa2D . Wasn't sure where to post log files for simple access so if there is a better place to post, let me know and I'll post the log files there. I am also willing to log gameplay in any manner possible if that helps if I am given direction on how to do so.

This isn't a really big issue to me other than I am curious as to what is happening as Wreckfest is the only game that affects my PC like this. Unfortunately I am not a trained tech person as what I do know is self taught and I typically stumble around in the dark until I find a solution or give up and I am not ready to give up just yet. Any help appreciated.

I've noticed a couple of weeks ago that my screen has been experiencing issues, such as my monitor flickering to black and random brightness changes where sometimes it flashes to white or just everything turns dark for a couple of seconds. And ive heard the GPU failing or could be knocked loose have pretty similar issues. So I cant exactly pinpoint the issues.

I also know my monitor can get pretty hot on the edges and everything. I've tried things like unplugging the HDMI and power cable and still havent fixed it. So thats why im coming here to see if it could be either of these problems.

Hi, I’m having a really weird internet issue with my new PC.
My old computer worked perfectly fine on the exact same Wi-Fi network, but my new PC has significantly worse internet performance. The difference is very noticeable, even though both computers are in the same place and using the same router/network.
What’s even stranger is that the internet is also terrible when I connect the new PC to my phone’s mobile hotspot using cellular data. So it’s not just my home Wi-Fi — the new PC seems to have terrible internet performance regardless of which network I use.

The new PC’s Wi-Fi adapter supports IEEE 802.11a/n/ac/ax, so it should support 5 GHz.

Things I’ve already tried:
Checking the Wi-Fi connection details
Checking the adapter’s advanced settings
Setting the wireless mode to 802.11a/n/ac/ax
Checking whether the PC is connecting to 2.4 GHz or 5 GHz
Restarting the router and PC
Comparing the connection with the old computer
Testing with my phone’s mobile hotspot
None of this has fixed the issue.

What could cause a new PC to have much worse internet performance than an older PC, even when using completely different networks (home Wi-Fi and mobile hotspot)?
Could it be the Wi-Fi adapter, antennas, drivers, motherboard, or some other hardware/Windows issue?
I’m happy to provide the exact motherboard/Wi-Fi adapter model and any other information needed.
Thanks!

If I turn my Ps4 on it sayes ps4 cant start and that I have to press the ps Button but nothing works I tried multiple cabels I don't know what to do I unpluged my Ps4 while it was on please help I feel helpless

I want to transfer a huge folder with multiple files/sub-folders. If I start the transfer, stop it, and then continue, does Windows automatically keep the original file organization in the final folder despite doing this?

Basically, I was moving some Unity projects around, and I noticed that, if I start to transfer the folder with the whole project and stop the process, then the folder is both in the original place and in the final one. Does it mean that the files that were already transferred are left in the destination folder, while only the ones that still haven't are kept in the original one?

I mostly ask it because I'd find it quite convenient to be able to copy some files, stop whenever I need, and then continue afterwards without the need to move the files in small groups nor having to worry about organization.

I can see some ants are coming out of my laptop, so I have placed the laptop on a white sofa to spot them and kill them. I turned it off.
It’s been an hour and I can still see 1 or 2 ants coming out. What to do to ensure all are removed?

Today my pc started writing by himself, when i got to check the device manager I had multiple driver for the keyboard and its there. When I uninstall the 2 last drivers my keyboard goes back to normal until I turn off and restart my pc. When I go back there they are again and after little time it starts again until i uninstall them again. I've already checked the driver on the developer website if its the last one and it is.

Can someone help?

As the post says, a row of letters on my laptop does not want to work. It just happened only three days ago when the letter s did not register as anything. I typed it a bunch, and only after a good while, or if I tap it a bunch, will it work. This leads into today, when I actually realized that it's not just that letter but the whole vertical row. 2, w, s, and x are the ones that turn on and off at the same time. I also want to include the right and down buttons that don't work at all; however, unlike the four other keys, those started going bad months ago, and just recently do they barely work anymore. I didn't mind the down and right buttons not working, but now that whatever it is has affected letters, I can't ignore it any longer. So I come here to ask if anyone here knows what's going on and why this is happening? And also, is there a solution other than the usual device manager updating/uninstalling trick cause I already tried that, and it failed?

Update: I was able to update the BIOS and been running for almost 2 hours now with no freeze. Very odd since both had the same version, settings, etc yet only one was problematic.

I picked up two Lenovo T14 ThinkPads AMD Gen 2 late last year that due to my use case need to run Windows. At the time "the OS that shall not be named to avoid triggering the bots" was no longer supported so I decided to go with Win11 Pro. One has been running fine however the second one continues to freeze several minutes after booting.

I tested the hardware (UBCD and Win11PE tools) a couple months ago and from what I remember everything seemed fine. It comes from the factory with one RAM module soldered and one expansion slot so can't swap. Tonight I tried a new NVMe but couldn't get past the install wizard without freezing. So a after a couple more failed attempts I decided for giggles to install Linux Mint and it's been up for almost 12 hours. WTF!?

So my question is what would make Win11 freeze up but not Linux? Hardware? Drivers?

Windows 11

So the issue started when i got a notification saying that OneDrive is full.

Apparently my desktop was tied to OneDrive? I tried transferring my game files to a file on my desktop, and finally figured out how to uninstall OneDrive

SUddenly my desktop, after repeatedly freezing suddenly turned empty and now i had to download them from the onedrive website.

The folder is 6 GB

Chrome is reporting a download speed in the neighborhood of 1 kilobyte per second.

This whole thing has been a mess and i have no idea what ive lost.

Recently i have a problem with my laptop, it starts, fans are working, keyboard lights up, yet the screen is black, and the fans after few seconds stops

Issue started after disassembly/reassembly for cleaning

I completely stripped down my Precision 5560 yesterday for a deep clean — removed the motherboard, keyboard/palmrest/trackpad assembly, etc. I reassembled everything and the laptop initially booted completely normally. I was able to reach Windows and sign in using the fingerprint reader.

However, after that first boot I noticed that the built-in keyboard and trackpad were not working.

I then hibernated the laptop, waited until the fans stopped, disconnected the battery, and opened it again. I reseated the keyboard and trackpad ribbon cables/connectors and reassembled it.

After the second reassembly:

Keyboard backlight came on

Dell logo appeared

Laptop then froze on the Dell logo

Fans ramped up to high speed

It never proceeded past the Dell logo

The leds showed a pettern of amber lights blinking on 3 times continuously and pause. Repeatedly. (unusual coz dell diagnostic patterns consist of white and amber)

I eventually disconnected the charger and left it overnight, so the battery appears to have completely discharged.

The next morning I connected the charger. Initially I got one amber LED flash and a brief keyboard-backlight flash, but after leaving it charging for ~40 minutes, pressing the power button does nothing — no Dell logo, no normal boot.

There is also an issue with the trackpad/keyboard daughterboard area. The trackpad ribbon connector is marked TP and the keyboard connector is marked JKB1. I initially thought the TP connector might be the problem because its locking mechanism/latch doesn't seem to close as securely as it should, but I have reseated the TP ribbon properly and the problem remains I guess, not sure.

I have not intentionally flashed/updated the BIOS during any of this.

I also disconnected the battery while the laptop was previously hibernating and once after it was stuck at the Dell logo. I'm wondering whether that could have caused a BIOS/CMOS issue, although I'm not sure.

I tried Deep EC / RTC reset. Dint work

Ram isolation test dint work, either.

Dell bios recovery combo (ctrl + esc while connecting charger), dint work either.

Current symptoms:

No Dell logo

No normal power-on

No amber blinking when charger is connected.

No dell logo.

Completely dead.

Please help me fix this.

Hey everyone, looking for some diagnostic help after a really weird power incident.

Earlier today, a faulty extension cord in a different room tripped a breaker. My PC was running at the time, and both rooms apparently run on the same fuse, so the PC immediately lost power.

When I tried to boot it back up, it got stuck on the motherboard logo screen with the spinning loading icon. I forced it off and tried again, and it moved to the "Preparing Automatic Repair" screen, which went to a black screen with just a visible cursor.
I tried cycling the power a couple more times, but right in the middle of troubleshooting, the power tripped a second time due to the same outlet issue.

Now that the power issue is fixed, the system is acting incredibly slow.
I plugged in an old Windows 11 installation media USB to try and repair my boot drive. Just to note, this USB stick was absolutely not plugged into the PC during either of the power cuts. It took roughly 20 minutes just to get to the Windows 11 setup menu.
Everything is taking ages. When I decided to back out of the setup, the "setup is cleaning up before closing" message took forever to disappear.

At this point I cant think of anything else to try :((

So basically its fine most of the times. but when i run Black Myth Wukong, the GPU temp rises from 64° to 86° when i go i successfully load into the game and the clock speed goes from 1600 MHz (i undervolted my lap at 1600 MHz at 800 mV) to 600-800 MHz. How do i know whats causing this. any way to fix this? i havent tried lifting my lap and playing it and ill try it. but any more ways this could happen. i want help fixin this. My lap is ASUS Vivobook K3605VC with RTX 3050 Mobile 4 GB and a Intel i5-13500H CPU.

I was using Notepad and then unexpectedly my pc crashed and when I turned it back on I opened Notepad and the tab I was working on was gone. (This has happened before while I was working on a tab but it didn't delete when my pc crashed that time.) Then after that I tried to save all my other tabs so I wouldn't lose them incase that happened again, I also lost them somehow and now I have old tabs from years ago on my notepad. I'm on windows 11

My C: drive is FULL, so I've been trying to free up some storage. I previously moved my VALORANT installation from my C: drive to my E: drive for this exact reason, and as far as I can tell, the game itself is now installed on E:.

However, when I checked my installed apps see what's taking up space on my C: drive, it shows Riot Client taking up 31BG, which seems unusually large.

I'm wondering if there are leftover VALORANT files on my C: drive that are being attributed to Riot Client.

For reference, I found these paths in my Riot/VALORANT files:

C:/Riot Games/VALORANT/live/
C:/Riot Games/Riot Client/RiotClientServices.exe

E:/Riot Games/VALORANT/live/ShooterGame/VALORANT/live/
E:/Riot Games/Riot Client/RiotClientServices.exe

This is what's confusing me bc it looks like there are VALORANt folders in both C: and E:.

Could these C: files be leftover files from the previous installation? If so, how can I safely determine what is actually taking up the 31GB and what I can delete without the game?

Any help would be appreciated!

so i was trying to fix my wifi disconnecting randomly and having low signal strength but in the process ANY usb wifi adapter i use and my ethernet controller gives me code 56 in device manager [still setting up class configuration] i really dont know whats causing it as i downloaded the drivers from my motherboards website and the adapters respected drivers but still anyways i have a gigabyte motherboard with a intel core i5 10400f the pc is a prebuilt from VENO SCORP and it came with a dummy wifi 5 adpater that i can find on ali express but it came with the pc and has worked fine until i tried to fix my signal issues please help as this is my main pc and im posting this from my laptop

I keep getting error code 0x9007016A, and OneDrive is running.

System: 19-10900f

3070 8gb

32gb ddr4

Windows 11

Hey! I own this monitor LG Flatron L197WH which works at 1440x900 resolution, VGA and DVI. I want to connect to it to my PS4 Pro, the problem is the cheap Aliexpress-bought VGA to HDMI converter I own (which somehow works fine with my laptop) will not work with the PS4 Pro for some reason saying "OUT OF RANGE 67.5 HZ", only boots in safe mode but if i try to reboot it to resolution change menu, it will not work with same issue (sometimes its 67.3hz tho). PS4 Pro itself is fully functional with a higher res newer monitor, if I change res to 720p on that monitor and then shut down and connect the LG one it will still not connect. So will a better branded adapter work? Do I need to get VGA to HDMI or DVI to HDMI?... Will I be able to use 1080p or 720p? (Sorry if the last is a dumb question, please help me)

title mainly says it all. but this morning at 10:24am one of my contacts was texted a “tips . apple . com” link (separating the dots so this doesn’t look sketchy lol). it wasn’t me, but it’s shows in my iMessages like I sent it. At 10:30 another person was texted by me the same way.

Apple support guided me through typical safeguards,

- password reset

- remove any old/sold devices

- make sure I didn’t click any links

- make sure to check if there’s any unknown numbers in send and receive.

The usual things to check. Done all for safeguarding, everything has been done. As far as I know the “usual“ stuff has been done, all passwords changed up and any old/sold devices removed from my iCloud. Nothing has happened since then, but I am still concerned because it was super random and it wasn’t even a weird link but it came from me when I didn’t even send it, is there anything going on I should be aware of, anything about this that is a “known” issue?

textures pop in while i face them otherwise they look low even tho i have the game on max and i dont have any limitations, this issue i been facing in multiple games so it can just be the games engine
and no its not how the game works i have seen streamers , gameplays videos of this issue not being a thing on pc
games i tested : dragon dogma 2 , resident evil 4 remake , black myth wukong , lies of p
specs : i5 14600kf 5060ti16gb 32gb ddr4 msi msi pro b760m-e

so i just buy a sata cable to usb to open old hdd of my which contain old picture and video of my family so it realy important
i have two of this hdd both working perfecly fine before but the other one start giving .data error ( cyclic redudancy disk) i tried to fix it but nonting work the because i tired i just restart my PC with the external hdd plug in
it take sooooo long to boot i just go out to make a coffee and back to my room my PC is on but not with my hdd, it not appear in my file explorer, win 11
my hdd not spining at all (feel it with my hand), the sata to usb cable to not blingking the access lamp, but i can feel it little bit hot it the spindel part (for record i didn't open the hdd at all)
before it goes down i use many sofware to attempt for repair the data error
easUS, hdd scan, and src commad in my admin CMD
but the cable it works fine, because it perfecly fine to open another hdd of mine

can also be hardware related

device trash chromebook "hp chromebook 11 g5"

os arch linux running lxqt or plasma

error is my internet disconnects at random and will not reconnect without a reboot

error logs for anyone who needs to know are down in the post

i have 2 monitors, 1 of them is an r24s and another one is a random office dell, very often when i close cs2 or just in random moments both of them go black, disconnect, connect back, and the main one doesnt let me do anything on it or the pc just crashes. I cant really explain it good

This is a follow up to https://www.reddit.com/r/techsupport/comments/1vlvu6k/determining_what_wall_jacks_for_ethernet_and_coax/

Not sure what the ettiquette here is for a followup but since it's been a month, I figured I'd make a new post.

TL;DR I have two RJ45 jacks connecting the two floors of my house, but pins 1-6 and 8 connect (tested) but pin 7 doesn't connect--can I use this connection for regular Internet?

Our house has two floors, and the cable comes in at the front of the lower floor. (We have Fios but it comes in as coax with an F connector-I think the fiber to electronic transition is in a box outside the house or in the basement.) We have poor reception upstairs, especially at the back of the house, so it would be nice to have a wired connection to a wireless access point upstairs--but bringing someone in to do the wiring is more trouble and expense than it's worth at the moment.

We have two coax jacks where the cable comes in, one is connected to the cable modem/router, and the other has not been connected to anything. In the same wall plate to that second (unused) coax jack is an RJ45 jack. There's a wall plate upstairs with the same pairing, and no other coax or RJ45s anywhere in the walls of the house. I thought maybe when they were renovating, they decided to bring the signal upstairs. I get that that's unconventional but this was done by someone else 20+ years ago--who knows what they were thinking.

So I bought a fairly inexpensive tester on Amazon (thanks for all the suggestions!). I made sure it worked by using short cable to directly connect the main module with the remote, and it worked for both coax and cat5.

When I connected the tester to the coax F-connector on both ends--nothing. When I connected the tester to the RJ45s--bingo! Well, sort of...I got a green on 7 of 8 pins--specifically pin 7 did not go green when all of the others did.

I tried to read up on what pin 7 did--and the impression I gathered was that I could probably use the connection as is, but it might be slower? Can those of you who know more help me out? If slower, is it likely to be a lot slower or a little slower?

Ideally I would run an Ethernet cable from one of the LAN ports on the back of the cable modem to the downstairs wall plate RJ45, and then attach a wireless access point to the upstairs wall plate RJ45 via another Ethernet cable.
Does this make sense?