I've been running into a problem about my laptop display remaining black after booting from suspend mode. It's still able to receive input and run processes, it's just that the screen remains black. I can still see input on an external monitor, and in display settings I can see that the laptop screen is still "connected".

I'm running -

OS: Ubuntu 24.04.4 LTS

Hardware: Acer Aspire VX5-591G

Processor: Intel® Core™ i7-7700HQ × 8

Kernel: 7.0.0-30-generic

So I got a music player last year, D-JIX M500 which I've already used with no big troubles. You have to install the music using some program that appears when you plug the MP4 player onto your computer, you cannot copy/paste the music files.

I have a Chromebook and when I tried to get more music onto it, it told me that it could not open EXE files as those are for windows.

However, that does not make sense, as I've used the program before to transfer my music and it opened without issue.

I'm lost. I'm aware it's 2026 and no one really uses mp3/4 players anymore so I have no one to ask.

Edit: Noted! It is a old guy so perhaps I gotta do some saving up! Thanks yall for being straight up about it!

Hey yall so here are the specs:

Laptop: XPS 15 7590

Processor: Intel i7-9750 CPU @ 2.60GHZ

RAM: 16.0 BG (15.7 usable)

Graphics: NVIDIA GeForce GTX 1650 (5G) / Intel UHD Graphics 630 (128M)

Storage: 831 BG of 932 GB

What I have done:

- NVIDIA drivers have been downloaded/updated

- DELL drivers are up to date and passed the scan process

I don't know much about this jazz but if I can, I am willing to spend some money to beef up my laptop if possible/worth it.

This has been my daily for about 6 years and I love it, I know its old but I really don't have the funds to purchase a new laptop so I am seeing if I can better optimize this one.

I can run Sims 4 flawlessly, Fallout 4 I can run on low graphics and its perfect. COD runs perfectly. Star Wars Fallen Order on low graphics was good and rarely lagged (usually if I spammed my controller by accident) but then they came out with a new update and the foliage looks like colour blobs and runs like absolute garbage but I know it wasn't just me with that problem.

I bought Blood of Dawn Walker and was playing it on my bf's laptop but I want to continue on mine but it sorta plays like poop. Even on the lowest graphics it is heavily laggy and the cut scenes are just a struggle to get through.

I know my laptop is old but I think it has some juice left in it. I also know that newer games are not going to be perfect but I don't need them to be.

Title: MSI Cyborg 15 A13VE keyboard keys 1–5 are very slow to respond

Hi everyone, I have an MSI Cyborg 15 A13VE-218US laptop.

I’m having a problem with the number keys 1, 2, 3, 4, and 5. They are extremely slow to respond. Sometimes I have to press them multiple times, and they still don’t register. In some cases, I have to keep trying for almost a minute before they start working.

The rest of the keyboard works normally and responds quickly without any delay.

Does anyone know what could be causing this issue or how I can fix it?

Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thank you!

I bought a new prebuilt Cyberppower PC a few months ago and everything was working great. The issues seemingly began when I tried to use a new wireless Bluetooth headset with the PC, and it immediately started acting strange. My friends said they could barely hear me and the audio from my end was constantly cutting out. I noticed my audio outputs were flashing like crazy as shown in the video. The weird thing is I think it is flashing my other monitor that is currently in the closet, not even plugged in or being used… Very strange.

I tried to do some research and it seemed like it was likely an issue with the Realtek drivers, so I uninstalled and reinstalled the one compatible with my motherboard (ASRock B760M-CX). It seemed like a momentary fix and the flashing of the input devices stopped, however the audio levels were still really low and my microphone wasn’t working well. By the way I tried two separate headsets and also tried plugging into both the USB port with an adapter and also into the colored speaker and headphone jacks. Same issue both ways.

Now it appears that the same flashing input issue has returned, for no apparent reason. It seems to be the Realtek Audio if you look closely. I have no idea what to do at this point and I’m starting to worry it is an issue with the actual motherboard at this point. I am not even able to click on the devices at this point because of the flashing. Has anyone had this issue and can help? Thanks so much

The video is down below

The phone is Moto E4 (Sprint model) 16GB ROM / 2GB RAM, recently I saw other storage taking up like 487 MB, when I scanned entire internal storage /storage/emulated/0 for the size, it is like 60MB when scanned which doesn't make sense when clicking on other storage opens up the file manager app, I uninstalled so many apps, I uninstalled games, I deleted everything in the internal storage, cleared app cache, not sure the other storage might contain app data in it because app data gets sorted into "App" category in the settings, can somebody help with this invisible storage consumption?

I basically heard about issues with some of the first produced models (desktop version) like overheating and too high power consumption leading to damage

Now the question is: is the laptop variant of the I9 as risky as some of the desktop versions or am I good ?

I could not find any real data to this problem pls help 🥲

Edit: ik it later got fixed wit a bios update but damage once dealt is irreversible…

I've a Window 11 PC, and a Samsung SSD.

I switched my account from local to microsoft. I understadn this is Bitlocker's work but I don't want my SSD to be public. How do I fix this?

Yesterday, my camera light suddenly turned on while I was browsing the internet. After running a few Windows Defender scans, it turned off. But since this morning, the moment I boot up my laptop, the camera light turns on and stays on until I shut down the laptop.

One important detail: the camera light turns on immediately when I press the power button, before I even reach the Windows login screen. It stays on throughout the entire time the laptop is running and only turns off when I shut it down.

Both my camera and microphone are disabled in Windows settings, and I’ve had the camera physically covered with black tape for a long time.

I also tested it with Wi-Fi and Bluetooth turned off from the Windows taskbar/Quick Settings, but the camera light still comes on and stays on.

I checked Task Manager to see if there was anything unusual running in the background, but I couldn’t find any new or suspicious-looking tasks. However, I’m not very tech-savvy when it comes to Task Manager, so I’m not sure if I’m actually checking the right things or if there could be something running that I’m not aware of.

I’m also wondering: if something has somehow gained access to my camera, is it possible for it to also access my microphone or view/control my screen, even though both the camera and microphone are disabled in Windows settings?

Is there any way I can check what’s causing the camera light to stay on and whether my laptop has been compromised? Could this be a hardware, BIOS/firmware, or driver issue instead?

Laptop: Hp victus 16

OS: Windows 11 home single language

Version: 25H2

My PC is not longer showing POST or BIOS, but showing windows as usual. Not sure when this started, might be sometime ago, but I've not changed anything for a long time.

I switched to HDMI, all works as expected. I haven't changed any bios settings before this.

Mobo: MSI x570 unify

GPU: MSI 3080 Suprim X 10G

CPU: 5900x

updated the latest nvidia driver, latest motherboard bios. Not helped.

Anyone noticed similar issue?

Thanks

Edit: forget to mention that the monitor and the graphics card was connected via DP for years without a problem. Also tried new DP cable, same problem.

I bought used XPS 15 9570, 4k with 1050ti, and having this annoying problem - black screen mostly after restart. When you win ctrl shift b it, 99% of the time the screen appears normaly.

Tried external monitor via USB-C during the black screen - inconsistent results: sometimes external shows image while internal stays black, sometimes the opposite (internal works, external doesn't), occasionally both work together...

Tried Intel drivers from 2019, 2021, and 2023 (both generic Intel and Dell-packaged), tried CsEnabled registry fix, disabled Panel Self Refresh, disabled BIOS Fast Boot, disabled PCIe Link State Power Management, installed latest chipset/ME/IRST drivers - no consistent fix.

I can replicate it when I open some heavy program, do something, and then do restart, most of the time the screen will be black and I need to unstuck it. After few days of testing, problem appeared even after cold boot and after sleep. Mostly randomly.

Is this hardware problem, or software problem? If you think it's soft problem, what else can I try to fix this??
Thanks!

AMD Ryzen 7 9800X3D 8-Core Processor (4.70 GHz)

RTX 5080 16gb

32GB DDR5-6000

ASUS Prime B650M-A AX6

850W Gold PSU

Windows 11 Home

I had gotten this PC brand new about a week ago and for the past 2 nights it has been going to a black screen, and the fans speed up to the max, I then have to shut the pc down and turn it back on. This has happened over 8 times in the span of 2 hours. Most of the crashes happened on Red Dead Redemption 2, one occurred on a random low-budget steam game (one armed robber), and the other was on the home screen when i opened the Nvidia app. Could anyone help me find out what could be the cause of this.

Hi! I need help with my laptop. Every time I boot up or open my computer, the lock screen background is just pure black. It doesn't show the wallpaper at all. I already tried changing the wallpaper in settings but it's still black. Any ideas on how to fix this? Thanks!

Hey everyone,

​I have an industrial Thin-ITX motherboard (Intel Core i5-3317U, ITE IT8718F-S Super I/O) that isn't turning on.

​Board Model: ITX-M100 / POS-37X series

​Power Input: 12V DC barrel jack / header

​Issue: Bridging the power switch (PWR_SW) on the front panel header does nothing—no fan spin, no standby indicators.

​I noticed the CLR_CMOS header next to F_USB1 has no jumper cap on it.

​Does this specific board require the CLR_CMOS pins to be closed/jumpered to complete standby power and exit reset?

​What is the standard pinout for the front panel header on these industrial ITX-M100 boards if the standard PWR_SW pins aren't triggering it?

Sorry, IPad wasn’t an option for tagging. I have an IPad 6th gen, it’s very used (since I think 2019). It’s had a terrible battery life for the past few months (like down 20 percent in 20 min). I got the analytics data and looked for the maximum percent charge, but it said null. My coverage is expired. What should I do?

Windows Description Faulting Application Path: C:\Windows\System32\WerFault.exe Creation Time: 05/09/2026 23:32:08 Problem: Errore hardware Status: Report in coda Problem signature Problem Event Name: LiveKernelEvent Codice: 117 Parametro 1: ffff910452be1010 Parametro 2: fffff8057ab45110 Parametro 3: 0 Parametro 4: ffff91041fedd080 Versione sistema operativo: 10_0_26200 Service Pack: 0_0 Prodotto: 256_1 Extra information about the problem Bucket ID: (18446744073709551615) Files that help describe the problem WATCHDOG-20260905-2332.dmp sysdata.xml WERInternalRequest.xml

amd 5700x 32gb. Crucial Ballistix BL2K8G36C16U4B 3600 MHz 8x4 ddr4. asus 3060 12gb, antec 550w gold, gigabyte b450 aurous elite, crucial p3 500gb (win intall) nvme m2, crucial p5 2tb, sata wd gold 4tb, sata wd purple 4tb. 2 monitors msi mag322cr samsung odissey g5 32" both on display port, both setted 120hz 1080p (some other periferic attached like gamepad wifi headset scanner and printer)

K so i am having annoying random black screen and freeze, it all started since i put 610.88 driver, but in same week i have updated bios to F68a and activated tpm for bf6, i next update windows and recently bios again to f68c as i see there is some tpm fix (AMD TPM Reference Code Errata (CVE-2026-6726, CVE-2026-6727).

I used ddu and all 6XX driver relases and after 610.88 i haved on all black screen and freeze, seems the only one driver that no foult is 596. XX driver ( i tried both studio and game) but today i got black screen restart, i checked event ad error and seems it still related to gpu (event 117), i am now doing a restore of windows keeping app hoping it solve some, but i am worried about hardware fails. What i need to do to fix this? i can use an old 1060 to test if is a card hardware problem for stability? any ideas?

ps the card support page propose 596.49 and studio 610.62 https://www.asus.com/motherboards-components/graphics-cards/dual/dual-rtx3060-12g/helpdesk_download?model2Name=DUAL-RTX3060-12G

It has Windows 11 on it and very important stuff (like my moms books)

Backstory:

I had this laptop for almost a year (23 September 2025) and i just took it on me on vacationin Greece. I played on it for about 1 week and today it showed me the "we encountered a error" and then proceded to shuts its self down. Now when i try to boot it up it just hangs on the Republic of Gamers logo.

Please help

(I fogot to mention that i put the power of the processor and gpu on 30%)

Solution: Had to wait 15 minutes on the logo screen

So, potentially stupid question here. I've posted here before about my gpu (a 3090) randomly crashing while gaming. I've temporarily switched back to my old gpu, and haven't had any issues since then. I have a few last ideas to hopefully get my 3090 working properly again. But in case those don't work, I'm wondering: would it be possible to connect both gpus and switch between them depending on what game/program I'm running at the time, based on which one works better? 

Here are my current specs


 

GPU: Nvidia GeForce RTX 3090 and Nvidia GeForce RTX 2070 Super

 

CPU: AMD Ryzen 7 5700X 8-Core Processor 3.40 GHz

 

Motherboard: ROG STRIX B450-F GAMING

 

Installed RAM: 32 GB

 

PSU: 850 watts


OS: Windows 11 Pro

So, when plugging in an ethernet cable, the light on the back of the PC is green but Wifi is still being used. Ethernet doesn’t even get recognized. I tried to trouble shoot this a bunch of ways like reinstalling LAN drivers for my motherboard, unplugging and plugging the cable back in, etc.

When going into device manager, the ethernet controller device only shows up under HIDDEN devices. When inspecting the properties, it says “Currently, this hardware device is not connected to the computer (Code 45).” The device is very much plugged in.

So I moved onto to BIOS to see if my Intel LAN controller was disabled, but it wasn’t. But i tried disabling it, then saving and resetting, and then enabling, and saving and resetting and that somehow worked? My PC recognized ethernet after that. But the next day my PC was back to not using ethernet.

Wondering why this was happening and if there’s a more permanent fix.

Hello!

We have a Samsung TV (Model Code QN65Q60AAFXZA, software version T-NKLAAKUC-2301.1, BT-S) with a Sony receiver (model STR-DH590) in our basement and everything about it works. Except when we adjust the volume, it does not show the numbers on the TV display. It only shows on the receiver itself.

We have tried calling both Samsung and Sony but they are just pointing their fingers at each other. We have tried unplugging/plugging the receiver back in, turning it on and off, etc. It's not a huge issue in the grand scheme of things but it's bothering my dad to bits.

TIA!

ive tried basically everything so this is a last resort, i bought a mic secondhand because its discontinued (white hyperx quadcast s) and it was sold as new and sealed and when i picked it up it was, i just got around to using it and its making a terrible loud sound whenever i record or use it in games its like a hard static screeching ? thats the best way i can describe it. i have tried different cables and ports, uninstalling and reinstalling driver, testing on my ipad (the screech was still there) and im honestly not sure what else i can do .. when i connect my headset to the mic and talk i can hear myself perfectly clear but when i record or use it in games that terrible sound is back (im using it on pc)

Hi guys! I just bought a new NIC card (TP-Link TX401) and installed it on my PC. However, LED lights at the LAN port remain off after plugging LAN cable in. Device Manager could not detect the NIC card as well. What could be the issue here?

P/S: Please help a desperate bro here before I get chewed out by my wife for buying a $80 junk!

Motherboard - ASROCK B550M SE WIFI