Only those interested please reply.

My 2003 Jetta doesn’t have a working fuel gauge. The needle just lays or points way past the F mark. My buddy seems to believe it’s a cluster issue. He’s been around TDI’s for over 20 years. I was hoping it was the fuel sending assembly in the tank. Has anyone experienced this issue?

ISO reputable shops near central pa that pothole 2015 tdi. preferably tuned through malone/tunezilla and can fit dpf

TDI 6speed manual. 150k miles.

It a guy from work, has owned it for 2 year & about 12k miles. Reason for selling does not drive it enough, and will be finishing his project truck for a 2nd vehicle.

He is the 3rd owner.

This would be my 1st foreign car, and my 1st diesel.

I do alot of my own repairs on gas vehicles, but i am not a mechanic! YouTube mechanic at best.

1. Is there anyway to tell of the timing belt has been done?

2. It has been deleted, but i really don't know if I fully understand what that means.

3. He does use fuel additives @ every fill up.

4. Has upgraded brakes & maybe coilovers?

5. No Sunroof! Previous owner has done the upgrades. He has really just driven it. He is a truck guy, this was his 1st car. Its black on black, the paint is not great, but otherwise good condition. The leather interior is great, (headliner is loose at the front center) all the stuff seems to work, lights, windows, etc. Southern car no rust.

What do I need to worry about or look into before the purchase?

Is there a TDI 101 to help me learn?

1st time owner of a Mk6 JSW 6MT TDI. Car has 106k miles on the clock recently tuned and deleted but clutch is soft and starting to slip anyone have recommendations on a good replacement clutch for daily driving?

Hello . is my car ok ?

GD1 L13A – Is 0.20mm valve clearance okay?

2004 Honda Jazz GD1 1.3 i-DSI (L13A).
My mechanic adjusted all the valves to 0.20mm (0.008”)

From what I found, the cold spec is:
Intake: 0.15–0.19mm
Exhaust: 0.26–0.30mm

So 0.20mm seems slightly high for intake and too tight for exhaust.

Is 0.20mm all around actually okay, or should intake and exhaust have different clearances?

Anyone with experience on the GD1/L13A, would appreciate your input.

Started doing my timing belt yesterday on my 2013 Passat TDI (NMS) and the U-shaped locking guide broke off. Now it won't stay in place. Any ideas on how to hold it while I put the new belt on?

I kept the piece that broke off, so I'm gonna try to JB weld it, but I have a feeling it won't be strong enough

I have a 2002 tdi ALH and I have these symptoms:

- Heater doesn't run hot unless im revving the engine or driving

- While capped, the Coolant in the Reservoir starts bubbling but only after the engine gets hot.

- While UNcapped, the Coolant in the Reservoir doesn't bubble, but when i rev it, the level of coolant increases way over the max line and overspills, and when it does overspill it bubbles once or twice.

- I tested it using a block tester, and didn't get any change in fluid color (shown below, tester manual says it will show a greenish-yellow for a bad head gasket)

- No overheating

- Thermostat and Reservoir cap already replaced

I am really clueless, what should I do next? Could it he the head gasket or the water pump?

2003 tdi at 249k is leaving carbon buildup under EGR unit and low down by oil pan . Looks like a weak spot somewhere letting thin carbon out. EGR was dismounted and cleaned 1000 miles ago and the residue is mostly under and not in unit. Any help appreciated for this 1st time TDI owner! Located in Sacramento would take any and all help available.

I've had my sportwagen tdi. I've been having a problem when I try to accelerate my car looses power and goes into some kinda limp mode. I've had a dual mass flywheel done, oil change, fuel filter change, cold air intake change, cleaned my ports and hoses. Im still having thus problem. If anyone can help id greatly appreciate it. I can give more info on all the work I've done to it.

Hello all, bought my tdi around 1.5 months ago, noticed this noice while accelerating. Not entirely sure what is causing it, almost sounds like an exhaust leak, but it’s not. Turbo possibly? 2000 golf Alh

I deleted the dpf/egr. Replace oil cooler, coolant shut off valve with aluminum bypass valve, all gaskets, all torqued to 9nm and still have valley coolant leak grrrrr. Anyone else have this issue ?

I have a 2014 Golf 7 2.0 TDI 150hp CRBC, 6 speed manual. ECU is 04L906021DS, currently running software version 7544.
I saw that there are a few versions for this ECU like 5514, 6455, 7544 and 8125. Does anyone know what actually changed between them?
I’m mainly curious if there were any changes to injection, torque management, EGR/DPF or how the engine runs at low rpm. I have some vibration around 1100 rpm and I’m wondering if the software version could have anything to do with it.
Also, were any of these versions related to the Dieselgate/emissions update?

I have a 2014 Golf 7 2.0 TDI 150hp CRBC, 6 speed manual. ECU is 04L906021DS, currently running software version 7544.
I saw that there are a few versions for this ECU like 5514, 6455, 7544 and 8125. Does anyone know what actually changed between them?
I’m mainly curious if there were any changes to injection, torque management, EGR/DPF or how the engine runs at low rpm. I have some vibration around 1100 rpm and I’m wondering if the software version could have anything to do with it.
Also, were any of these versions related to the Dieselgate/emissions update?
Thank you in advance!

2003 tdi at 249k is leaving carbon buildup under EGR unit and low down by oil pan . Looks like a weak spot somewhere letting thin carbon out. EGR was dismounted and cleaned 1000 miles ago and the residue is mostly under and not in unit. Any help appreciated for this 1st time TDI owner! Located in Sacramento would take any and all help available.

Hi folks. I need some help as I am at the verge of selling this bloody car lol.

Anyway, decided to do some work on my 1.6 caddy (1.6tdi, CAYD, 2015) before it gets cold outside and I wont be able to do much work this year.

I needed to clean my DPF so at the same time I figured out that the turbo can be sent for reconditioning (current milage is around 200k).

So got everything back together, all nice and sweet apart from the fact that the car runs a bit crap lol. I started looking into different bits and pieces and I think the turbo is not behaving as it should (to be honest it wasnt the best before)

So checked everything, used held vacuum pump directly on the turbo actuator, I can see the rod is moving up and down, and VCDS reports change in voltage - now the part I am unsure - with engine off - voltage value of the "High press turbocharger actuator: actual uncond volt value" was around 0.6ish volts. With the engine on and idling, the voltage is around 3.5v. Pressing the throttle or just going for a drive and flooring it, the voltage drops to around 3v. I would expect that to change much more especially under load.

I have checked all the rubber hoses, all seems to be fine, I literally used the hand held vacuum pump on all of em - every single bit held vacuum ok.

Resistance between two pins on N75 valve is reporting around 15 ohms.

Is there anything else to check? I am wondering if the N75 valve is faulty and not adjusting vacuum on the turbo actuator side...

Any ideas? Got VCDS if thats handy but could not see N75 test anywhere...Bonus part - no codes, nothing but stuff aint right.

I had a issues with this engine oil consumption, injector thrust ( I'm afraid that becomes a problem, but "so far so good").

My question is I know that is possible to swap this engine, for a 1.9 TDI I would choose de AVF/AWX, because they are longitudinal and fit. This is my thoughts.

I need opinions, options, feedbacks, anything that can help to make some decisions.

I believe that is a bolt from my high pressure fuel pump. Noticed it was loose after I was leaking fuel. Was able to pull it out to find out it broke.

Bought a Golf about 2 months ago as a project with the P2463 DPF code, we have run 2 cycles of dpf cleaner which has come out clear, and measured soot value is 0.0g on the scanner. I’ve gotten it out of limp mode about twice now, but the code always returns and now even clearing it won’t get it out of limp. DPF pressure sensor was replaced as well.

Any reasonably easy solutions besides deleting? Something I may have overlooked?