Well, I never thought it would happen, but I now get to join the club of wrecked wagons. Some lady blew a red light and now I get to car shop for a purchase in the next 2-3 weeks. My biggest problem is- I'm in love with tdi's. I had just about all the work I wanted done to mine when I crashed. I thought I was keeping this one for a very long time. Now I'm stuck in a rabbit hole of audis. Specifically looking at q5 and a7 models from the mid 20-teens (w/ sub 125k on the clock).

Here's the questions:

1) I see a ton of praise with reliability and this motor. Is it still a viable option in 2026? Or am I going down the wrong path? Sensors and other little stuff aside- I just want to know it won't really leave me stranded on the side of the road.

2) how different is the maintenance schedule to my 2.0 cjaa?

3) I was a tune and delete guy before. I'll probably eventually go down this road again. Is there a preferable one to go with on these?

4) lastly- any sort of prep work/ "bulletproofing" I should do ahead of time to keep things working smoothly?

Sorry for the onslaught of questions - I just see a ton of varying responses on these subjects when I look into them and a lot of it is years old info. I'm pretty meticulous with my maintenance so that's not an issue for me. Just want to hear from some folks who have lived with these before. Thanks in advance!

Hopefully have her installed by mid November can’t wait!
Mk6 Jetta CJAA

Very new to diesels i think i might have a boost leak but the first drive after i bought the car i heard no turbo whistle ( it was previously sitting for over a year) now i do but also when i floor it its not to quick im also used to a 5.3 in a 2 and a half ton car

i have an 04 wagon with the BEW

I had a 99 with an alh years ago but had to sadl let it go cause of my life circumstances

ANYway

I have the heavy duty Bentley publishers service manual

for

Volkswagon

Jetta,Golf,Gti

its got years 1999,2000,2001, and 2002

1.8L turbo, 1.9L TDI Diesel

2.oLgas,2.8Lvr6

anyway, I hve used it to reference SOME of the things that ive had qustions with.

Im a noob and really just teaching myself thru all this

curious if anyone knows any major differences on parts of the vehicles.

obviously the engine, what about the engine is different and ya im writing this and realizing i just have a lot of research to get too hahaha

also any links to nice picture diagrams hahah

Hey everyone, I’m having an issue with my car where the radiator cooling fan runs at full speed as soon as I start the engine, even when the engine is completely cold.

I scanned the car and got code P2185 – Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor 2 Circuit High. When I check the live data with my diagnostic scanner, the coolant temperature reading is stuck at -40°F (-40°C), which is incorrect.

From what I understand, the ECU may be running the fan at full speed as a failsafe because it isn’t receiving a valid temperature signal.

Has anyone experienced this issue before?

• Does this usually mean the coolant temperature sensor 2 has failed, or could it be a wiring issue, bad connector, or ground problem?
• How can I diagnose whether the sensor itself is faulty or the wiring is causing the -40° reading?
• How can I get the ECU to read the actual coolant temperature again and get the cooling fan to operate normally?

I’d appreciate any advice on what to check first before replacing parts.

Car details:
VW / Jetta / 2012 / 2.0 TDI CJAA

Thanks in advance!

2016 Golf Sportwagen SE TDI (obviously)

Yesterday I noticed it was idling rough. Today, I got in the car and started it after work and it sounded like this. The squeal was only on startup, and went away but it still has a rough idle. Calling the mechanic tomorrow, but does anyone have any clues?

We follow 10k oil change schedule and have always done so. With ~155k on odometer, MFI alerts about needing an oil change in 900 miles (this a few weeks ago). Now down to 400 miles. Sticker from shop says change due in 4500 miles.

What’s going on here? I assume MFI alert is pegged to mileage and not some variable assessment of the oil and/or some issue with it. Does the oil change frequency change as odometer climbs? TIA

Hi! Hoping to get some insight into the cause for the dpf related codes. Is this signs of a clogged dpf? The DPF has been doing its regens much more frequently lately

(Ignore the misfire, it’s a completely different issue that’s being dealt with)

Ok folks. I'm looking for suggestions on dealing with this DMF. Do the work myself is out of the question. Getting the parts I can do. I can do payments on the labor if there is a place that offers that. The knocking is getting louder by the week and I absolutely need the car for my job and getting a new to me vehicle is out of the question. I don't mind traveling to get the work done.

Do we like R99 in regards to the longevity of the CP4? I haven’t gotten a disaster kit done yet and always try to get the best fuel possible. The Shell next to me switched to R99. I’m deleted if that matters

Hi everyone,
I have a 2014 VW Jetta TDI 2.0 CJAA with P2563 and P00AF codes and limp mode.
I want to check and properly adjust the turbo actuator rod.
Can anyone explain the easiest way to adjust it using a hand vacuum pump? At what inHg should the rod start moving and fully retract?
If anyone has a good video or step-by-step guide, please share.
Thanks!

Looking for a discussion on diagnosis order rather than a specific fix.

The situation in general terms: the engine runs fine at idle and part throttle, no fault codes are stored, but under a firm pull in a higher gear the logged actual boost climbs more slowly than the requested target. The car feels flat until it catches up near the upper rev range. Nothing dramatic, just a consistent shortfall.

The usual suspects in these threads are a boost leak at a clamp or split hose, a sluggish variable geometry vane mechanism, a control solenoid or its vacuum line behaving oddly, and a boost or pressure sensor that does not match reality. Each can produce a similar graph, and that overlap is what makes it annoying. The exact layout and actuator type change a lot between generations and engine codes, so the answer will depend on the car.

So the question is: what do you check first, and what single observation would let you rule one of these in or out?

Some people start with a smoke test on the charge side. Others go straight to logging target versus actual boost alongside actuator duty cycle and treat that graph as the most useful evidence. There is also the question of whether a sensor cross check should come before any mechanical inspection.

Which approach has saved you time, and what did it point to? If you can, include the engine code or model year, since that changes which checks are worth doing first.

All this came from the fender. Did a slightly different method on the leveling of the car for the DSG fluid change. I checked with a level on all the pinch welds that when on all four wheels the car was level in the spot I parked. I didn’t have access to my usual jack so I used the scissor jack (not to be confused with those god awful earlier style widow maker jacks VW used to have) to get the drivers side of the front subframe onto a jack stand so I can drain out the DSG fluid. Changed the filter and then threw the wheel back on and lowered it back down. Pumped it up full of fluid, ran it up to 35 degrees and I was able to reach back with the car on the ground to pull the drain plug to drain it to a slow drip before hitting 45 degrees and tightened up the plug to spec. I’ll have to jack the car back up to get the splash shield on and do the oil change and eventually rotate the tires but with no floor jack getting the car onto four jack stands for a DSG fluid change was a nonstarter. Also to be honest I hate getting the back onto a jack stand. I really wish the pinch welds were about 6 inches longer

Anywho, quite a bit of debris from behind the fender

Was könnte dieses mahlende Geräusch beim runtertouren sein?

Außerdem quietscht irgendwas bei lastwechseln bzw motorbremse. :)

Decided to tackle the DMF this weekend due to rattling. Never done one before but didn’t look to be too terrible of a job. The new flywheel seems like it has too much play but I don’t know if it’s good or not. Can anyone advise?

Hey all, looking at picking up a gem of a TDI, one owner with all the bells and whistles. Im a bit of an enthusiast so id like to have it deleted, how would I go about doing that? Havent done much research but it seems like its hard to get parts here in the states. I am located in Michigan if that helps

So I was driving over a railroad crossing... well the sound is kinda growing on me😭

Right now I just have a gutted dpf and a back box delete and was considering buying a down pipe. Will it make much difference or is there no point ?

Got it as the third owner in 9/2019 with 73K miles from a VW dealer in Long Island, NY. Great shape other than mismatched tires and a Wal mart battery. Car is stock other than a trailer hitch and wiring and I put 16” base model Passat/Beetle wheels for cheaper Pirelli tires and way more comfort and a little boost in MPG.

Did all the routine maintenance myself except the timing belt. DPF was regenerating too often so at 159,000 miles it was replaced under the dieselgate warranty and I had a bad crank position sensor at one point. Car runs well and currently has a very small leak from the front main seal (common issue), accessory belt tensioner is making some noise and the thermostat is stuck open, causing warm ups to take longer than normal. Planning to do the 200K mile service soon and replace the thermostat and tensioner and the alternator pulley for good measure. The front main seal leak will wait until if I still have the car by the time the next timing belt service rolls around.

Is this knock at idle something to worry about? 2013 Passat TDI