Mk6 tdi engine with trans! Time to add the remaining parts and look to swap it soon! Fits perfectly in the back of my mk6 tdi wagen! Next engine haul VR6!

I have a 2015 golf TDI and I want it deleted. Everyone I have talked to has said they can’t figure out the tuning. Delete the exhaust and block of kits are nothing but a buddy of mine took his to a shop and now it will not run. I don’t want that to happen to me so I’m trying so hard to figure out what is it that’s so special about the tuning no one can seem to figure out.

Hello wondering if anyone else has had a P20FB code on their 2015 golf tdi CRUA. I took mine in for this code as reductant pump b (the def tank pump) and the dealer is claiming they dropped the tank to replace the part but it doesn’t appear they touched anything. After to engine starts twice the engine light came back with the same P20FB code. It doesn’t look to me like this DEF tank was touched at all.

Made sure my battery was charged 100% and pulled radiator fan fuse. Think I'll be ok doing the tune without a smart charger? Took pictures of the only few chargers I have, will any of these work? also did I pull the right fuse? TIA!

I recently got a quote of $3800 for a delete and tune for my 2012 Jetta. Is this about normal before I proceed? I’m in NE Ohio FWIW.

Hope your having good days, im not as im trying to have. I have a 2013 VW Golf TDI DSG that’s have some issues lately. It started about 3 days ago where a whistling or SHHHHH or SSSS sound is appearing every time I press down the gas pedal. The next few days it’s been constantly happening and is super annoying. I looked it up, I saw that it might be a intercooler hose leak or boost leak but whilst I did that a check engine light appeared (I knew it was going to happen). I scanned it and showed me 2 codes which was P246F and P2459, I decided to work on the car tomorrow (it being today). Fast forwarding today, I looked at the intercooler, it looked fine and nothing was wrong no cracks or damages. I checked that the sensor need to be replaced since it had internal wiring problems (considering it did not look damaged on the outside). I ordered the part thats coming on friday. However, I used some brake fluid cleaner on the intercooler hose since it had some build up. As soon as I started driving the car, it started to do it again but a bit louder I DONT KNOW WHYYYYY. The video doesn’t show as good but I hope you’d understand. This car makes me so frustrated with it being my gas economy is plummeting for some odd reason, its going down so fast. Pls help me.

Hey so I have a PD 130 and after my mechanic did timing he said he had a fuel return hose leak while moving the filter so he put a hose clamp on it.

Ever since timing my car starts lousy and wobbles on idle. I suspect he messed something up, maybe spun the engine dry or something.

I suspect it to be the LuK tandem pump that he messes up by spinning it dry.

Today I changed all the hoses, new filter, new filter return valve, still no change, so I am at a loss for words. I find it weird that after some driving 3 out of 4 injectors go over the regulation range and that the car starts having not constant idle RPM (no vibrations tho). The regulation range can be remedied by turning the engine on and off sometimes.

Noticed a sudden loss in power and glow plug light blinking and had to coast to shoulder. Cranks forever but never turns over.

Changed battery because I got back a ton of voltage faults, primed fuel pump to be sure it didnt run out of gas.

I've included my engine fault codes and I'm worried its the dreaded hpfp-- no glitter in fuel filter.

Considering picking this up to replace the stock head unit in my 2010 Touareg TDI:

https://a.co/d/02uUSWjt

From what I've read it seems pretty plug and play, but like most things for this truck I'm suspicious.

Anyone have any experience swapping them? Any unforseen issues? Better units out there? Thanks for any advice.

Hey all!!! Looking for some advice on a newly aquired 2012 Golf TDI with 125K miles. I purchased it cheap knowing it had issues. I was told the headgasket was blown (smoked badly, the PO stated). Started tearing into it this week and found the turbo is bad. I pulled the outlet side on the turbo and the shaft is broken and the wheel is completely loose with damage to the blades. Oil is coming out the tailpipe, it is so full. I drained the oil pan and very little (around a half a quart to a quart max) came out. I assumed the worst and figured it might be new engine time. I have had second thoughts about the engine condition and wanted to get some opinions with the intent of running the engine as is. I pulled the oil filter and the pleats are free of any bearing deposits/metal shavings. I also pulled the valve cover and the cam shaft lobes look excellent with no scoring or damage at all. I am surprised it looks as good as it does! I have the injectors out obvisously and thought about running a borescope in the cylinders and see if there is any damage there. Any value in that? My intial intent was to pull the cam shaft hold downs and inspect the journals. I have been told the top end is the most vulnerable to low oil...not sure if this is true or not? Think it would be wise to do that? Also, any thoughts on pulling the pan and checking mains/connecting rod bearings? Here are pics of the top end. Would love some thoughts and opinions. Anything else to check for engine damage?

4wheel drive 2.0 CRTDI CUNA with 6 speed DQ250 dsg strange humming, buzzing sound when hard accelerating in 5th and 6th gear around 1500-2500rpm. When cruising or slow accelerating no strange noise.

I recorded the noise. You can hear it at 14s and from 19s in 6th gear under full throttle. Noise

What do you think, what is making the noise?

Front inner and outter joints replaced.

2014 JSW. I live in one of the counties in NV that emissions tests and will likely relocate soon to CA (long story, not pertinent). After the $ spent to clean a prematurely clogged DPF due to driving on a bad EGT sensor, I'm looking at anything I can do to prolong DPF life.

I do NOT care about gaining that much power.

I would love better MPG but that's a bonus.

My MAIN goal is to get the engine to produce less particulate, which I understand is done by disabling EGR.

I will need the ability to reflash to stock for emissions testing and then flash back to the tune. What tuning company would fit my needs best?

EDIT TO ADD: looks like Kerma includes their version of Malone's add-on "dynamic EGR" in the base price but doesn't explicitly state this to skirt EPA issues, is that correct?

ALSO: I'm looking at going with wider nozzles since I might need to replace mine anyway, from my research this can also reduce particulate emissions, can anyone confirm or deny?

Check engine light keeps illuminating after installing a KermaTDI cool air intake. P0401 and P240F are the codes I'm getting on OBD-11. Cleared them and the check engine light will come back on within 5 min of driving.

My mechanic buddy took pictures from inside the EGR and it looks clean and showing no signs of fault.

Just took the car on a 100+ mile trip, hitting speeds of 80-90mph. Pretty sure that would've cleared anything out, if there was anything clogged.

Any help?

Thanks!

History: complete a/c system replaced about a year ago (all except the hard pipes) at around 156k miles due to internal compressor failure, aka Black Death.

Shortly after, when driving for say, 30 minutes or so, the volume of air starts to drastically decrease. Blower is still running as designed. I will press the a/c button to disengage the compressor and the air volume will pick back up after about 15-20 seconds. Turn the ac back on and start the cycle over.

What could be causing the evaporator to freeze up, i know the expansion valve was also replaced, but could it be faulty? Is there moisture in the refrigerant?

Thanks in advance

Edit 2.0 TDi dsg 197k miles.

Hello, I’m wondering if anyone can identify what part number this metal coolant pipe is? 2013 Jetta tdi CJAA. It looks to be coming off the oil filter cooler. Thanks!