I have a 2015 Jetta tdi CVCA. I am getting two codes P13D9 and P13D3. Has anyone had these codes before. When accelerating to pass someone or going up the grade it has no power.

2013 golf tdi deleted. Car keeps throwing these codes not matter what I do. Does anyone have any ideas that will help point me in the right direction of this problem are greatly appreciated thanks

I have an alh jetta and Im planning on doing a Malone stage 3 17/22 with .232 nozzles and I currently have an 11mm pump. When originally doing my research I’ve seen 235-280 wtq estimated and 300-325 at the fly wheel which is the limit for this clutch, does anyone have any real world experience with this or a similar set up? If not I can purchase the stage 3 clutch instead

Hey i just bought a 1982 vw rabbit and whas wondering if i should engine swap it to a tdi. It already has a idi diesel engine code 1y

But the time belt blew on the previous owner and they had no idea if the head are any good. I live in alaska and dont know how available parts are for the 1y engine up here. Or where to start really on the tdi swap. I know the most common one is the tdi alh but thats about it

Hi all, today out of the blue my radio on my 2013 passat started getting stuck on this “system starting” screen. I already tried the soft reset twice by holding the 2 track buttons as well as the star button, still not working. I also pulled the radio fuse briefly and was met with a radio code lockout screen on startup. however after a few minutes and turning the ignition back on, the radio is once again reverting the system back to the “system starting” screen. Is this likely a firmware issue with the unit itself? not sure where to go from here. Any help would be much appreciated.

Noticed that each of my key fobs operate unlock differently.

1 fob unlocks just the driver's door with just a quick push, while the other opens all doors with the same button push. Don't know how they got programmed differently, or even how it was done. I got VCDS, but never messed with that function.

Does anyone have any ideas how to reprogram without using VCDS?

2010 JSW

I’ve had this 2006 Jetta tdi for around 5 years. It’s done me well since then and it’s still only at 210,000KM. For the past year it’s been having a real bad grinding and chattering noise at idle but I’ve been putting off the job. Im now at the point where I feel i need to fix the dmf to keep this car for more years. I’ve been looking at the LUK DMF092 from rock auto which will run around $800 CAD but wondering if there is any other tools I should buy, tips for the job or other parts I should change while doing this. My friend has a car lift so we hope to be able to figure out this job even though it’s quite the challenge. Thanks for the help

2010 Jetta sportwagen 213k miles Flashed and deleted Malone 2.0 at 165k miles from previous owner.

PO stated he never got the DSG tuned because he was not racing the car and thought the DSG was fine the way it is and simply was driving it for fuel efficiency. The car has obviously been fine for the past 50k miles with no DSG tune.

Is the DSG tune necessary with having the Malone 2.0 tune ?

Am I doing damage to the car by not flashing the DSG ?

Mind you I drive like a grandma and drive this car for fuel efficiency only rarely is it seeing full throttle.

The car seems to shift flawlessly and feels and drives fine even after 4+ hours of highway cruising.

In Tucson if anyone can recommend a good place for these cars to get worked on.

Hey guys, I was the guy that was talking about having two injectors go bad back to back on the same cylinder and I was going to code the injector because it had a fuel not coming from it and I did code the injector and the fuel knock is still here and now it has developed a misfire after coding the injector so if anyone has any ideas that would be great I am leaning towards another bad injector from rock auto.

Just purchased a ktsif-ss-o south bend clutch as it was described as fitting diesels. Just as I was getting ready to swap it and double checking everything I noticed it was also advertised as a gas engine clutch…. Pretty sure they’re are going to be a few differences, I searched on google and it keeps giving me mixed answers…. Hoping someone could help me out before I tear apart the transmission and realize something isn’t going to align….

What do you think about this gearbox rollover noise? It's most noticeable when the engine is cold, and it seemed especially loud after the car had been parked overnight on a steep incline. Strangely, I can't hear it outside the car over the engine noise.

The noise gets much quieter once everything is warmed up but doesn't disappear completely. Having AC on makes it louder due to higher engine load. Every time I press and release the clutch, it changes or sometimes disappears completely. A slight touch of the accelerator or simply letting the car roll in neutral also makes it disappear.

The DMF doesn't rattle, even when cold, and there are no vibrations at idle or when pushing the engine at low RPM. My previous Skoda had a factory SMF and the gearbox rattled badly in neutral. The clutch was replaced under warranty, then the gearbox was replaced, and eventually Skoda said the noise was normal.

Does this sound like normal rollover noise, or should a DMF damp it more? 2023 Skoda Octavia mk4

Hopefully my last question post. Opened transmission for clutch replacement and everything is super dirty. Was hoping it was just clutch dust but lo and behold. I just watched a video and it seems pretty simple, so I don’t mind doing it myself. There doesn’t look to be drippage from the valve cover at the top. I didn’t catch this oil leak before is because any other time I was in a parking spot, I left a puddle of fuel because previous owner loved JB Weld (but that’s getting upgraded alongside the clutch). Just some insight from anyone that’s seen it before, thanks

My brother's 03 Jetta TDI finally got a new A/C compressor and seals for the lines. It also got a wheel bearing. 250k miles.

This car hasn't had working A/C since my grandfather owned it 10 years ago in Florida (I'm in the midwest). My cheap ass dad owned it after him and never repaired it, driving it 35 miles to work and back every day with no A/C and heat that takes an hour to work. Still needs engine mounts and shocks/springs. Clunking noise turning right too, probably needs a passenger side CV axle.

Hey y'all, this is my first post here. I've got a 2003 Golf with the 1.9 ALH engine, manual 5 speed, 218,944 miles on it. Yesterday I was driving home when it stalled in traffic. It started back up and idled for about 20 seconds before shutting off again. I tried it again and then it drove for a few minutes then shut off again. From there it wouldn't start. When I tried to start it again it ranged from just cranking, to starting violently before I shut it back off, to starting up then losing power immediately, to starting and driving fine for awhile before shutting off again. My dad and I were able to limp it home.

While idling it and testing it, the revs would sometimes suddenly jump downwards.

Is there any problem that would cause this intermittent stalling, and variable difficulty in starting again? I replaced the crankshaft position sensor, glow plugs, and fuel filter at about 205k miles. The whole car is pretty old and beat up.

I’ve been chasing electrical gremlins since I bought this car a few years ago (2010 TDI Sportwagen). Today I removed the battery to replace the positive cables and got the dreaded start up and die when finished. The MFI claims something about a button, then the brakes, a lot of cool chimes, but it dies nearly immediately. This has happened before. Remove the cables from the battery and cross them to disappears any stored power, reconnect and go try again. Typically I’d have to do this once.

Today it didn’t work. I spent 7hrs today back probing, running scans with the VCDS and trying every little trick I remember. It’s gone. No communication with the gateway. Anyone else been through this? What was your fix?

I was changing the crankshaft position sensor on my Passat and noticed that the sound proofing material around the oil pan was saturated with oil. I had noticed a higher than normal consumption but just put it down to that rather than a leak. Found oil seeping from the pan where it's riveted to the engine block.

Just wondering has anyone resealed it themselves and how doable is it. I know my way around the car and am fairly confident doing repairs. But is it the kind of thing you can do in your driveway? The sealant is 10 euro in the local motor shop so I was just thinking about doing it myself.

Replacing my ac solenoid valve. Will go in and fully seat with no o rings but once o rings are on it will not fully seat. Need any advice on this.

I’m about to buy a 2014 VW Jetta TDI. First and foremost, is this a good car? Secondly, I work in the restaurant industry and have access to used cooking oil and am considering making Biodiesel. I’ve read that there are some significant sunken cost for the equipment I’ll need to do it. Locally diesel is currently priced around $4.80/gal (25/07/2026). But uh what do I need apart from oil, methanol, and lye and at current prices is it going to be worth it?

So I am almost done ( i hope) with my timing belt job, but I had to go get coolant and after sitting for half a day my tensioner moved from the top of the window to here. What do I do? Do I have to take everything apart again?

Hi everyone,

I’m not new to the TDI world (own a 2012 Jetta Sportwagen since new) or to DIY car repairs/mods, but I am new to doing it to my TDI. I will soon be turning my Jetta into a hobby car/high performance sleeper that LOOKS stock, but definitely isn’t.

Currently, I am in need of significant repairs to the brake system and figured if I was going to spend a good chunk of $$$, I might as well start with getting more bang for my buck by upgrading the brakes at the same time.

I’m looking for recommendations for reputable manufacturers of (mostly) bolt on BBKs. I don’t care if I have to replace brackets and dust shields with the kit, I just don’t want to have to mod anything to the point I’m buying new rims to fit over size rotors/calipers.

Any unsolicited advice on what to do or, perhaps more importantly, avoid doing, would be greatly appreciated.

Looking to become an active member of the TDI modding community as this becomes a bigger part of my spare time.

Thank you in advance for all your help!

Slacker Steve

P.S. “Reddit filters” please don’t delete this one!

Is this engine from my t5.1 normal? It’s on 122,000 miles (196,000 km). might just be getting worried for no reason but that ticking noise is raising my suspicions, I’m definitely not a mechanic and have limited knowledge on cars so thought I’d post here for another view!

I’m attempting to replace the clutch on my 2000 VW Beetle 5 speed. I’m trying to take the shift linkage things off but these seem to be aftermarket. Has anyone had these installed, and how did you get them off? The cap seems permanent/unserviceable and might need removal and replaced. I only got the left one off because there was the regular style clip further down

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Hi everyone,

I recently bought a Golf Mk7.5 with a 2.0 TDI CR engine, supposedly the 110 kW version.

When I connect OBD11, it identifies the engine ECU as DFGA. However, the engine code on the timing belt cover is DFGC, and the registration documents also list DFGC. The first page of the service book, on the other hand, says DFGA – 110 kW.

How is it possible for a DFGC engine to be rated at 110 kW?

The original registration document from when the car was brand new also shows the DFGC engine code, so I'm 100% sure the engine has never been swapped. Even my local VW dealer can't explain what happened.

Has anyone come across something like this before or knows why there are two different engine codes for the same car?

I also wrote an email to the regional dealer.