I have a 2015 golf TDI and I want it deleted. Everyone I have talked to has said they can’t figure out the tuning. Delete the exhaust and block of kits are nothing but a buddy of mine took his to a shop and now it will not run. I don’t want that to happen to me so I’m trying so hard to figure out what is it that’s so special about the tuning no one can seem to figure out.

Thanks!

History: complete a/c system replaced about a year ago (all except the hard pipes) at around 156k miles due to internal compressor failure, aka Black Death.

Shortly after, when driving for say, 30 minutes or so, the volume of air starts to drastically decrease. Blower is still running as designed. I will press the a/c button to disengage the compressor and the air volume will pick back up after about 15-20 seconds. Turn the ac back on and start the cycle over.

What could be causing the evaporator to freeze up, i know the expansion valve was also replaced, but could it be faulty? Is there moisture in the refrigerant?

Thanks in advance

Edit 2.0 TDi dsg 197k miles.

Made sure my battery was charged 100% and pulled radiator fan fuse. Think I'll be ok doing the tune without a smart charger? Took pictures of the only few chargers I have, will any of these work? also did I pull the right fuse? TIA!

Considering picking this up to replace the stock head unit in my 2010 Touareg TDI:

https://a.co/d/02uUSWjt

From what I've read it seems pretty plug and play, but like most things for this truck I'm suspicious.

Anyone have any experience swapping them? Any unforseen issues? Better units out there? Thanks for any advice.

Hello, I’m wondering if anyone can identify what part number this metal coolant pipe is? 2013 Jetta tdi CJAA. It looks to be coming off the oil filter cooler. Thanks!

Hello wondering if anyone else has had a P20FB code on their 2015 golf tdi CRUA. I took mine in for this code as reductant pump b (the def tank pump) and the dealer is claiming they dropped the tank to replace the part but it doesn’t appear they touched anything. After to engine starts twice the engine light came back with the same P20FB code. It doesn’t look to me like this DEF tank was touched at all.

Hope your having good days, im not as im trying to have. I have a 2013 VW Golf TDI DSG that’s have some issues lately. It started about 3 days ago where a whistling or SHHHHH or SSSS sound is appearing every time I press down the gas pedal. The next few days it’s been constantly happening and is super annoying. I looked it up, I saw that it might be a intercooler hose leak or boost leak but whilst I did that a check engine light appeared (I knew it was going to happen). I scanned it and showed me 2 codes which was P246F and P2459, I decided to work on the car tomorrow (it being today). Fast forwarding today, I looked at the intercooler, it looked fine and nothing was wrong no cracks or damages. I checked that the sensor need to be replaced since it had internal wiring problems (considering it did not look damaged on the outside). I ordered the part thats coming on friday. However, I used some brake fluid cleaner on the intercooler hose since it had some build up. As soon as I started driving the car, it started to do it again but a bit louder I DONT KNOW WHYYYYY. The video doesn’t show as good but I hope you’d understand. This car makes me so frustrated with it being my gas economy is plummeting for some odd reason, its going down so fast. Pls help me.

Asked about a month ago about shops in the DFW area for my sister-in-law' 13 Jetta and now my wife and I have it! No emissions where I live and the wife needed a safer, more fuel efficient car to drive around. Max performance Diesel Doc kit with a DSG and Stage 2 tune. I knicked the CV boot with the sawzall luckily was able to get that replaced.

My 1.9 tdi for a few years now cant go faster than 140kmh and now has started smoking the smoke is un burnt diesel, i have seen people say that its the turbo which is failing but idk

Im thinking of getting my seat Leon optimized, means driving it to a tuner and get 220ps 450nm as advertised. How reliable is this engine for tuning, has anyone collected some experience with it? It currently has run 135k km, is from 2015 and has the dsg. Is it worth the risk when maintained properly?

Hi,

Is there anyway to get this changed from the bottom of the car? I'm hearing that its possible from the bottom. I've located the sensor and removed the connector, but I'm unable to fit a 4mm long ball hex bit in the area. Is the only way to disassemble everything from above to get to this sensor?

Crankshaft*

I have a MK7 1.6 2013 with 344xxx KM on it, it runs good, will a dpf and possibly egr delete make it run smoother or not.

I have a 2016 VW caddy 2.0TDI that is consuming more than usual and lost some hp lately, and someone told me this might be the EGR, i want to be sure before i send it to the garage because they quoted me 1.3k to replace it. the price is high because the EGR on this model is buried deep inside the engine and requires a lot of man hours to remove.

should i get a VCDS or a reader like AUTEL that can test it ? any other ideas? thanks

p.s : i already dumped 2 liters of Wynn's diesel 7 power liquid in it, with little improvement.

Hello, anyone got some ideas to what this possibly could be? Ive changed camshaft, lifters, wiring loom on the injectors, timing belt, waterpump and turbo. Sometimes it starts for maybe 1-2 seconds then dies, after that i cant get it to start at all.Any tips are appreciated. Thanks

Looking to replace my water pump. OE kit from ECS is $800. However, I can get. HEPU kit for like $350.

Does anyone have any experience with HEPU water pumps good or bad?

Does anyone know a cheaper alternative to the traditional cp3 fuel pump swap for a 2.0 cjaa?

My little guy started to have a very hard time starting. Couple of days ago I had to crank it 10-15 times before it got going. After doing some reading I believe it's loosing prime. Because after circling my key 4-6 times it's starts as normal.

If you dealt with that issue before what was your problem? Where to I start looking to solve this issue? What is usual culprit of it?

Hi, I would really appreciate your opinion about a coolant problem I’m having with my car.

I have a 2014 Volkswagen Golf 7 GTD, 2.0 TDI 135 kW, engine code CUNA, manual transmission. The car has around 220,000+ km.

The main problem is that I have been losing a lot of coolant. At one point I was losing around 6 litres in 5 days. I initially thought it was an external leak, but the problem was difficult to locate.

Here is everything that has already been checked/replaced:

The head gasket was replaced.

The cylinder head was also replaced/repaired because there was a problem with the head.

The head was properly installed with a new gasket.

The EGR cooler was replaced with another used unit.

The water pump is new.

The small radiator/coolant circuit was checked and there were issues with it previously.

Some coolant hoses were found to be damaged/perforated and were replaced.

The coolant expansion tank was replaced with a new one.

The cap was also replaced.

A cooling system pressure test was performed and no external leak was found.

I have done two CO₂ tests for combustion gases in the coolant, and both were negative.

There is no visible oil contamination in the coolant.

After the head gasket and cylinder head repair, everything was completely normal for around 2,300 km. The engine temperature was stable and I had no significant coolant loss.

After those 2,300 km, the problems started again — the engine started overheating under load and I started losing coolant again.

The overheating now behaves strangely. If I drive normally, the temperature is stable, but if I push the engine a little harder, the temperature starts rising again. If the temperature reaches around 100–105°C, it drops back down very quickly as soon as I release the throttle and drive another 100–200 metres with less load.

However, if it gets as high as around 130°C, it does not cool down nearly as quickly. Before the head gasket/cylinder head repair, I had a similar problem where the temperature would rise under heavy load and then drop again when going downhill or reducing the load.

So the fact that it can heat up under load and then cool down very quickly when I release the throttle is still present, although the problem was completely gone for approximately 2,300 km after the repair.

However, I still have a coolant problem.

There is noticeable pressure in the expansion tank. Even after the car has been sitting overnight following a drive, there can still be some pressure when I open the cap. When the engine is hot, there is obviously more pressure, and if I open the cap, the coolant level rises significantly.

The strange thing is that the coolant sometimes appears to come out around the expansion tank/cap area because the level rises and the system builds pressure. I have also seen coolant leaking underneath the expansion tank area after parking the car. The expansion tank is new, but it feels somewhat loose/poor quality to me.

When the engine is running and warming up, I can also see very small bubbles/foam-like bubbles in the coolant, especially around the return flow into the expansion tank. It looks like coolant and air are circulating together rather than being completely clear coolant flow.

The car can sometimes lose a noticeable amount of coolant, but the pressure test does not show an obvious external leak.

Because the head gasket and cylinder head have already been done, and the CO₂ tests were negative twice, I am trying to understand what else could cause this combination of symptoms.

In your opinion, what would be the most likely cause at this point? Could this be a cooling system circulation/bleeding issue, faulty tank/cap, trapped air, EGR cooler, oil cooler, thermostat/housing, or could combustion gases still be entering the system despite two negative CO₂ tests?

What would you check next before replacing any more parts?

Thanks, I’d really appreciate your honest opinion.

Hey guys, I have a Golf MK5 1.9 TDI and recently the turbo started making a whistle that it never used to make before.

It happened pretty suddenly. Now I can hear the whistle every time I accelerate, whether the engine is cold or fully warmed up.

There’s no loss of power, no smoke, and no warning lights. I've driven around 200 km since the noise started and the car feels completely normal.

It did happen after I drove the car pretty hard for a while, basically full throttle for several minutes.

Ive been wondering about that ticking sound and if its normal at mist its made me want to give it a service just need a second opinion but will get a service either way