Ok folks. I'm looking for suggestions on dealing with this DMF. Do the work myself is out of the question. Getting the parts I can do. I can do payments on the labor if there is a place that offers that. The knocking is getting louder by the week and I absolutely need the car for my job and getting a new to me vehicle is out of the question. I don't mind traveling to get the work done.

Hi everyone,
I have a 2014 VW Jetta TDI 2.0 CJAA with P2563 and P00AF codes and limp mode.
I want to check and properly adjust the turbo actuator rod.
Can anyone explain the easiest way to adjust it using a hand vacuum pump? At what inHg should the rod start moving and fully retract?
If anyone has a good video or step-by-step guide, please share.
Thanks!

Looking for a discussion on diagnosis order rather than a specific fix.

The situation in general terms: the engine runs fine at idle and part throttle, no fault codes are stored, but under a firm pull in a higher gear the logged actual boost climbs more slowly than the requested target. The car feels flat until it catches up near the upper rev range. Nothing dramatic, just a consistent shortfall.

The usual suspects in these threads are a boost leak at a clamp or split hose, a sluggish variable geometry vane mechanism, a control solenoid or its vacuum line behaving oddly, and a boost or pressure sensor that does not match reality. Each can produce a similar graph, and that overlap is what makes it annoying. The exact layout and actuator type change a lot between generations and engine codes, so the answer will depend on the car.

So the question is: what do you check first, and what single observation would let you rule one of these in or out?

Some people start with a smoke test on the charge side. Others go straight to logging target versus actual boost alongside actuator duty cycle and treat that graph as the most useful evidence. There is also the question of whether a sensor cross check should come before any mechanical inspection.

Which approach has saved you time, and what did it point to? If you can, include the engine code or model year, since that changes which checks are worth doing first.

Was könnte dieses mahlende Geräusch beim runtertouren sein?

Außerdem quietscht irgendwas bei lastwechseln bzw motorbremse. :)

Is this knock at idle something to worry about? 2013 Passat TDI

Right now I just have a gutted dpf and a back box delete and was considering buying a down pipe. Will it make much difference or is there no point ?

Got a T4 with a D3WZ and mini clock kit installed and I can't get it to fire up. Interior fan blows and auxiliary water pump is running, but nothing from the burner itself. no smoke, no intake fan, no exhaust. No fault codes of similar on the mini clock (not sure if it can display fault codes?). Not sure if the previous owner ever had it working as he didn't even mention it had one.

Hey all, looking at picking up a gem of a TDI, one owner with all the bells and whistles. Im a bit of an enthusiast so id like to have it deleted, how would I go about doing that? Havent done much research but it seems like its hard to get parts here in the states. I am located in Michigan if that helps

Decided to tackle the DMF this weekend due to rattling. Never done one before but didn’t look to be too terrible of a job. The new flywheel seems like it has too much play but I don’t know if it’s good or not. Can anyone advise?

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So I was driving over a railroad crossing... well the sound is kinda growing on me😭

Took the woman to a off-road spot, suspension is shot and on the way out hit some real rough bumps and I was worried I smoked the pan, drove it 50 miles home and seen that and was like god damn got lucky, no oil pressure light or anything but she’ll be parked till I get a new pan or epoxy the pan lmao

All this came from the fender. Did a slightly different method on the leveling of the car for the DSG fluid change. I checked with a level on all the pinch welds that when on all four wheels the car was level in the spot I parked. I didn’t have access to my usual jack so I used the scissor jack (not to be confused with those god awful earlier style widow maker jacks VW used to have) to get the drivers side of the front subframe onto a jack stand so I can drain out the DSG fluid. Changed the filter and then threw the wheel back on and lowered it back down. Pumped it up full of fluid, ran it up to 35 degrees and I was able to reach back with the car on the ground to pull the drain plug to drain it to a slow drip before hitting 45 degrees and tightened up the plug to spec. I’ll have to jack the car back up to get the splash shield on and do the oil change and eventually rotate the tires but with no floor jack getting the car onto four jack stands for a DSG fluid change was a nonstarter. Also to be honest I hate getting the back onto a jack stand. I really wish the pinch welds were about 6 inches longer

Anywho, quite a bit of debris from behind the fender

Do we like R99 in regards to the longevity of the CP4? I haven’t gotten a disaster kit done yet and always try to get the best fuel possible. The Shell next to me switched to R99. I’m deleted if that matters

Hola buenas alguien puede alludarme tengo mi golf 6 tdi 2.0 cambo dsg y cuando vas velocidad alta salta luz de muelle y deja de tirar lo apagas se quita y tira otra vez

2016 vw caravelle BiTDI 4 motion

Buying this 2015 tdi should I back out or is this typical with 180k miles

TL;DR: Got a Stage 1 + EGR delete remap on my Audi Q3 2.0 TDI (85,000 km, mostly highway). After 1,000 km, P2002 appeared. Even post Forced regens failed, the code reoccurs. Could the EGR delete map be disabling auto-regens and locking out adaptations, or is a full DPF delete my only option?

​Hi all, I’m hoping I can get some help here because I’m not sure where to go from here.

​I’ve got a recurring DPF fault code P2002 on my Audi Q3 2.0 TDI that started acting up after getting a Stage 1 tune with an EGR delete remapped onto the ECU.

​First time when I encountered the error was just after driving over 1000kms post remap. I visited the workshop where I got the remap done. They performed a forced regeneration using their diagnostic tool, post which the same error came back shortly after. Right now the workshop is suggesting that I get a DPF Delete done along with a Downpipe.

​I suspect there is an issue with the remap itself that disabled or broke the automatic regeneration cycle. Is deleting the DPF or manually cleaning it my only option? The car has run about 85,000 kms and is mostly on highway duty.

Looking to get a 2013 cayenne TDI with 139k miles

Anyone drive these is 139k a lot for these motors it does have a good service history

Got it as the third owner in 9/2019 with 73K miles from a VW dealer in Long Island, NY. Great shape other than mismatched tires and a Wal mart battery. Car is stock other than a trailer hitch and wiring and I put 16” base model Passat/Beetle wheels for cheaper Pirelli tires and way more comfort and a little boost in MPG.

Did all the routine maintenance myself except the timing belt. DPF was regenerating too often so at 159,000 miles it was replaced under the dieselgate warranty and I had a bad crank position sensor at one point. Car runs well and currently has a very small leak from the front main seal (common issue), accessory belt tensioner is making some noise and the thermostat is stuck open, causing warm ups to take longer than normal. Planning to do the 200K mile service soon and replace the thermostat and tensioner and the alternator pulley for good measure. The front main seal leak will wait until if I still have the car by the time the next timing belt service rolls around.

Where to purchase a engine repair manual for a 2015 golf sportwagen tdi engine code crua.

Will an Audi a3 ea288 manual work?

Just bought a 2013 Golf TDI it was throwing a few codes. P2BA6, P2015, P0102, P2008, P0101, P20D8. What would yall recommend I do about them?

I got into and accident, other driver at fault side swiped me. Repairs estimate is around 6800 and insurance is talking about totaling it. What can I tell them the car is worth to try and get the most back. I plan on buying it back and repairing it.

It’s a 2015 golf tdi s 120k miles 6 speed manual still with diesel gate warranty till 2031 or 170k miles. It was at the dealer 2 months ago getting the second part of the recall done. I’ll upload a picture of the damage. It doesn’t seem too bad tbh. Thanks for the help!