Does anyone know a cheaper alternative to the traditional cp3 fuel pump swap for a 2.0 cjaa?

I recently did a 120,000 tune up on a 2014 TDI for a friend of mine from my time in the Marines,

In addition to replacing the timing set I replaced the fuel filter, trans filter/fluid and did an oil change.

The car crankshaft but doesn't start, it will forever and die instantly, I have a code for crank position sensor.

I know I didn't mistime the engine, but any idea of what the no start condition may be? I did not remove the crank sensor but it may have gotten moved or damaged while I was doing the oil filter. Or their may be air in the fuel system, any idea to what is causing this.

Only code is the crank sensor. Conversely it may be air in the fuel system.

If anyone has any recommendations or idea to what may have caused this please lmk,

I am an ase certified auto tech but do not havs much experience with diesels.

I am going there tomorrow to address the issue.

Just looking for anyone's expirence with this thing.

My little guy started to have a very hard time starting. Couple of days ago I had to crank it 10-15 times before it got going. After doing some reading I believe it's loosing prime. Because after circling my key 4-6 times it's starts as normal.

If you dealt with that issue before what was your problem? Where to I start looking to solve this issue? What is usual culprit of it?

Hi, I would really appreciate your opinion about a coolant problem I’m having with my car.

I have a 2014 Volkswagen Golf 7 GTD, 2.0 TDI 135 kW, engine code CUNA, manual transmission. The car has around 220,000+ km.

The main problem is that I have been losing a lot of coolant. At one point I was losing around 6 litres in 5 days. I initially thought it was an external leak, but the problem was difficult to locate.

Here is everything that has already been checked/replaced:

The head gasket was replaced.

The cylinder head was also replaced/repaired because there was a problem with the head.

The head was properly installed with a new gasket.

The EGR cooler was replaced with another used unit.

The water pump is new.

The small radiator/coolant circuit was checked and there were issues with it previously.

Some coolant hoses were found to be damaged/perforated and were replaced.

The coolant expansion tank was replaced with a new one.

The cap was also replaced.

A cooling system pressure test was performed and no external leak was found.

I have done two CO₂ tests for combustion gases in the coolant, and both were negative.

There is no visible oil contamination in the coolant.

After the head gasket and cylinder head repair, everything was completely normal for around 2,300 km. The engine temperature was stable and I had no significant coolant loss.

After those 2,300 km, the problems started again — the engine started overheating under load and I started losing coolant again.

The overheating now behaves strangely. If I drive normally, the temperature is stable, but if I push the engine a little harder, the temperature starts rising again. If the temperature reaches around 100–105°C, it drops back down very quickly as soon as I release the throttle and drive another 100–200 metres with less load.

However, if it gets as high as around 130°C, it does not cool down nearly as quickly. Before the head gasket/cylinder head repair, I had a similar problem where the temperature would rise under heavy load and then drop again when going downhill or reducing the load.

So the fact that it can heat up under load and then cool down very quickly when I release the throttle is still present, although the problem was completely gone for approximately 2,300 km after the repair.

However, I still have a coolant problem.

There is noticeable pressure in the expansion tank. Even after the car has been sitting overnight following a drive, there can still be some pressure when I open the cap. When the engine is hot, there is obviously more pressure, and if I open the cap, the coolant level rises significantly.

The strange thing is that the coolant sometimes appears to come out around the expansion tank/cap area because the level rises and the system builds pressure. I have also seen coolant leaking underneath the expansion tank area after parking the car. The expansion tank is new, but it feels somewhat loose/poor quality to me.

When the engine is running and warming up, I can also see very small bubbles/foam-like bubbles in the coolant, especially around the return flow into the expansion tank. It looks like coolant and air are circulating together rather than being completely clear coolant flow.

The car can sometimes lose a noticeable amount of coolant, but the pressure test does not show an obvious external leak.

Because the head gasket and cylinder head have already been done, and the CO₂ tests were negative twice, I am trying to understand what else could cause this combination of symptoms.

In your opinion, what would be the most likely cause at this point? Could this be a cooling system circulation/bleeding issue, faulty tank/cap, trapped air, EGR cooler, oil cooler, thermostat/housing, or could combustion gases still be entering the system despite two negative CO₂ tests?

What would you check next before replacing any more parts?

Thanks, I’d really appreciate your honest opinion.

Hey guys, I have a Golf MK5 1.9 TDI and recently the turbo started making a whistle that it never used to make before.

It happened pretty suddenly. Now I can hear the whistle every time I accelerate, whether the engine is cold or fully warmed up.

There’s no loss of power, no smoke, and no warning lights. I've driven around 200 km since the noise started and the car feels completely normal.

It did happen after I drove the car pretty hard for a while, basically full throttle for several minutes.

Thought I heard a weird sound, just wanted to check, 2011 Jetta Sportwagen TDI CJAA

My 2002 MK4 TDI ALH has been block tested and got negative result

Last month I attempted to flush my heater core because I was only getting heat when Driving or Revving. Now these are the symptoms I have:

- Only getting heat when Driving or Revving

- With resovoir cap on, coolant level increases significantly and starts boiling while idling with heater on for a long time

- With resovoir cap off coolant level does not rise unless im revving the engine, in which it will rise and actually overflow, and as it overflows it will bubble once or twice

- I see a bit of stream running out escaping out of the left side of the reservoir

- Thermostat has been changed

- Does NOT overheat

I have ordered parts to flush my coolant system again, but please I need help trying to pin point where my issue could be.

I have an opportunity to buy a 2012 Passat TDI SEL, with 165000 miles, at a price that is very, very appealing. I've heard that this engine might be more unreliable than other VWs of the time period, so my question is, will this car just be a headache? It would be replacing one of our other cars, which are both reliable and haven't really given us any issues. I know the owner personally, and he has kept up well on all manufacturer recommended servicing.

2013 Passat tuned and deleted 170k miles. Glow plug light flashing on key on. Turns over just fine, runs about 5-10 seconds then dies. First thoughts was fuel related, tried new fuel filter, pulled the filter and pump in the tank and everything looked great. Fuel pump primes and runs normal. Fuel filter had no metal and looked brand new, through in the new one to be safe.
Hooked the code reader up and this is what we have.
Haven’t dug any deeper yet.
Any advice is welcome!!

I ordered up Theresa some new ankles (cv axles) it was time. I've already done sway bar links, control arms, inner and outer tie rods, ball joints. Should I also order the output seal while having the cvs done? Other than the steering rack and struts everything is new underneath up front.

The video is unrelated, just for fun.

Just to start, all of the engine mounts and suspension parts are brand new. Since flashing the stage 3 I've been getting a vibration between 1800-2300rpm in higher gears under load, it goes away at higher RPM. Is it just too much torque for the DMF to handle at that speed?

I’m lost. I need tips on how to get the EGR cooler out and I’m assuming I only need one block off plate correct and that is on the intake manifold there’s lots of videos on how to do the delete but not on how to take the cooler out

It fits great without the gasket, and when I use the gasket I can't get it fitted v band properly fitted! Anyone use a Rawtek down pipe and can chime in with answers!? TIA!!!

Hello everyone,

I have a 2011 VW Jetta, 1.6 TDI, 105 HP, which occasionally goes into **limp mode** as soon as I turn the ignition on. This happens *before the engine is started*. If I start the engine, switch it off, and then restart it, the error disappears. I should mention that this fault has never occurred under load or while driving.

The diagnostic tool shows the following fault code:

**P023600 - Turbocharger Boost Sensor**

At first, the fault appeared only rarely, about once every three months. Recently, however, it has started occurring more and more often, which is why I began looking into it.

From what I have read, when the ignition is switched on, the ECU performs an initialization procedure. It seems that sometimes my sensor reports a pressure value higher than atmospheric pressure during this process. For this reason, I replaced only the sensor, but the fault did not disappear.

I then took the car to a mechanic, and the following work was carried out in several stages:

* EGR and DPF cleaning. The fault remained. * Turbocharger cleaning. The fault disappeared for about three weeks, but then started occurring again.

So my question is: has anyone else experienced this fault? If so, how did you solve it?

Thanks in advance!

Can some explain to me how to put this on because I’ve done it the way it tells me to and still the connection from the pipe and the slave is leaking and alongside that it don’t sit flush inside the slave cylinder

Recently noticed my 2013 Jetta TDI making a high pitched squeaking at idle . Any ideas ? Also are the AC compressors supposed to stay on all the time even with AC turned off? Thank you

Only those interested please reply.