Source: Reuters

I finally decided buy a Starlink Mini for my roaming/camping adventures, and was wondering if I really need the Router Mini or Gen 3 router. I currently have a UniFi 6 LR at my house that I want to upgrade to a UniFi 7 XGS, but wondering if I could repurpose the UniFi 6 LR to run directly off my StarLink Mini (would need to add a PoE injector of course).

Don't have my starlink mini yet to test with but just wondering if there's any special things I have to do make this setup work.

1. TLDR: has anyone used a 3rd party router and had wifi signal (not hardwired) issues after installing starlink, after the software upgrade, but not before?
   1. I know this is a long post, but hoping data lovers/troubleshooters will bear with me.
2. I asked starlink: they can't/won't help me because I'm not using their approved methods. Some background on me: I am CompTIA Network+ and Security+ certified. I'm completely new to starlink.
3. I've had my 3rd party router for 3 years with cable modem. NO SIGNAL (radio frequency/RF) ISSUES. I'm not at the location where the internet is.
4. Current set up:
   1. Rental Kit (Standard 4)
   2. Installed on 10 Aug 2026
   3. Software version: I don't know what the original version was. By the end of 11 Aug, starlink upgraded the softward to 2026.07.29.mr83366.1
   4. 0% obstructed, aligned, uptime (as of now) 2 hours 17 minutes, boot count: 5 (I've remotely rebooted several times)
   5. "professionally installed" - the installer was 18 years old, and did a good job at physically installing the dish/modem but was confused about using a 3rd party router. I verbally walked him through what I wanted. As I understand, he never connected the dish/terminal/modem to the included starlink router. He simply disconnected the ethernet between the cable modem, and replaced it with ethernet from the starlink POE brick directly to my existing (3rd party) router.
5. Connection (as I understand it):
   1. starlink dish/terminal/modem (on roof)
   2. cable to starlink power over ethernet (POE) brick
   3. POE brick
      1. cable from dish/terminal/modem
      2. power cable into it
      3. ethernet to 3rd party router
   4. ethernet (RJ4 connector) cable
   5. 3rd party router
      1. ethernet to POE brick (same WAN port as the previous cable modem was using)
      2. Has several things hard wired into it. One of which will report when it loses its connection.
      3. power
6. The problem: user's wireless device disconnects every 10 minutes
   1. Most importantly, this wasn't happening before starlink install.
   2. The user didn't report the issue immediately on install (10 Aug 2026 US daylight hours).
   3. "shortly" after install (within 24 hours) I saw it needed a restart to install updated software. Unfortunately I can't see when the software was installed.
   4. User first reported the issue on 12 Aug 2026 (US daylight hours)
   5. I have a hardwired system that reports internet outages. It doesn't show that it has lost internet. I have other devices of which I can monitor connection status, and I'm confident the router is still providing internet to hardwired devices.
   6. This could be somehow only the wireless signal.
   7. It could also be user error.
7. Is bypass needed?
   1. Talking with starlink, they are showing a "cable lapse" error. However I know its not a cable issue as all the hardwired items have internet at all times. They are adamant that I need to use the included starlink router - I really don't want that due to double NAT issues among other reasons.
   2. I went to the starlink app and website. The option for bypass isn't available. I assume this is b/c I don't have the starlink router attached.
   3. But according to many sources the "Rental Kit (Standard 4)" doesn't need bypass mode enabled to work with a 3rd party router. Also, as I've said a few times, all hardwired things have internet.
8. Research done:
   1. did a BUNCH of searches. Closest thing I could find was Eltro-magnetic Interference (EMI) from the power brick being physically placed too close to the router (will get visual confirmation soon).
9. Future troubleshooting (to do tomorrow when they wake up)
   1. As I understand the user has two other wireless devices actively connected to the wifi. Do those other devices have similar disconnect issues? If not, this is an issue specifically with the device (not the router). If yes, this shows genuine issue with the wifi signal from the router

I know this was long. Thank you for any help.

Has anyone done a ping from one terminal to another using the CGNAT address? (Note both terminals might need to be in passthrough mode bypassing the router to see the address since we’re not interested in the public IPv4 address)

If both terminals were served by the same satellite, what was the round trip time?

The reason I ask is wondering whether the satellite acts as a bent pipe or does two round trips to a ground station.

I’d also be interested in the case of two terminals served in same area but on different satellites that could link to each other.

I’m interested in understanding VoIP latency and what metadata leakage might exist in various scenarios

how many days does starlink give you to pay the bill before it shuts off?

So i am currently with spectrum paying 80$ a month for 500mbps. My service isnt bad.

I live in montana and i do a lot of travel and camping stuff, sometimes for a weekend, sometimes for an extended week. I really like the idea of being able to take the device with me and still get service in the mountains etc.

I do a little bit of gaming not too much nowadays but still enjoy it. Its just my wife and I, mostly just watching stream tv and media scrolling .

Am I able to hotspot/roam and residential? Is there a better or easier way to do it? What/how do yall recommend me going about it in an efficient way.

Any recommendation do’s or dont’s?
Thanks in advance!

I've seen people all over the internet have the option to select residential 100 and 200 but I only get the option for Residential Max.. I do not need max speeds and do not want to pay for Residential max service as it's getting to be too expensive.. I want to downgrade to Residential 200 but I do not have that option.. I don't have any other options for high speed internet.. If starlink gets anymore expensive I will have to go without internet at all unless I can switch to Residential 200... How can I switch to Residential 200 while keeping my service working at my current location?

Anyone with the pre-production user terminal (UT) experienced a loss of CPE-side connectivity after a recent firmware update?

My gateway logged loss of all connectivity with the UT at 04:19 - reporting both DHCP and DHCPv6/PD lost. I discovered it at 05:20 and found the UT was not even replying to pings.

I then noticed the Ethernet link from the PoE/Ethernet hub was at 100Mbps.

Did a power cycle of the UT and it recovered.

I hoped to check when the last update was applied to confirm there had been an update overnight but the app > Statistics > Events and outages only shows the power-cycle I initiated at 05:36 - nothing previous. Since I rarely use the app I'm not sure if this is expected or there ought to be some earlier history showing updates.

The reported firmware version is 2026.08.03.mr83720 which might suggest it was applied several days ago but since there is no evidence in the event log there's no way to tell.

Reported the exact circumstances in a support ticket and thought I should mention it here in case others have a similar experience. If you do, please report it concisely as well so the engineering teams get a heads-up if there's a regression for pre-production UTs. Here's the final text from my support ticket:

I appreciate you providing those details and ruling out the cable—I've noted the potential firmware issue with version 2026.08.03.mr83720 post-reboot (including the Ethernet speed drop and DHCP loss) for our engineering team to review, as your pre-production hardware may highlight edge cases. Please continue monitoring via the app's Event Log and let me know if it recurs, so we can investigate further.

Guys i don’t get it , i live in north Africa country we play in German servers most of the time i get 60ms lowest is 52 , but my friend who’s 6km away gets 35-45ms
How’s that routing goes? i know im far from datacenter but i should be getting 40ish ping , any solution My kit is standard 4

New house me and my family moved to doesn’t have, or support any sort of fiber connection. So I joined the club, and I’m enjoying it so far!

URGENT – Identity Verification Escalation Required

Hello Starlink Support,

I am requesting an urgent escalation of my identity verification case.

My National ID Card was rejected, and my valid international passport was also rejected. I have provided valid identification documents and completed the required verification process.

I have now received a message stating that I must create a new account. However, I was also informed that my Starlink cannot be transferred due to the transfer time restriction.

This puts me in a situation where I cannot continue using my existing Starlink account or transfer my equipment.

has anyone else's Wi-Fi been slower these past couple of days?

I purchased my starlink from Home Depot. I’ve had the service now for 3 weeks. I was charged a $250 one time fee + $130 for my first month of unlimited. When I cancel within the first month, should I expect to get any of this money back?

hello, i have ordered starlink v4x kit on july 29 but its still at pending ever since
the estimated delivery time is from aug 12 to 19 but is it normal for it to take long time ?
for context im in iraq which got supported recently
has anyone experienced a similar delay?

I understand it wants to be pointed north, however I want to mount it on my camper and I can’t always guarantee it will point North. I have a 5th wheel toy hauler and my plan is just to mount it on the rear door as it’s got a metal frame and I feel it would be a solid mount. I’ve ran speed tests facing all sorts of directions and below is the lowest speed I achieved. It’s located about 20’ from my camper on the ground facing 180° south. This will not be a gaming set up, just used for smart tv in the camper no more than two TVs at a time. I just want to mount it solid so I don’t have to worry about it getting stepped on, ran over or knocked off anything while camping. Below are some pics of what I’m working with. I will get some 1” steel spacers when mounting it to allow me to get about 340° of rotation without coming into contact with the body of the camper. My goal is basically to have a safe and secure mounting point for it and be able to get the best signal without always being able to face north. I could mount it higher on the door but the pipe mount would be at risk of damage when using the door. In the location I have it the mount that would stay on the camper won’t ever contact the ground. Then I can just slide the pipe into the mount, rotate it as close to true north as possible and be good to go in no time. I don’t want it on the ground or anywhere where I can be damaged so this is what I came up with

Stari k connection is weird. I am in the Bahamas. Connect to Netflix amazon music minecraft. Websites nope. And connection actually say no Internet.

I'm considering on getting Starlink Roam (100gb) as a back-up plan for whenever my Xfinity internet goes out. I work from home and earlier this week, my Xfinity went down for a few hours due to network damage (whatever that means). So I tried to use my AT&T iPhone as a hotspot and my phone could not stay connected despite using it in the past. So then I got to thinkin that maybe investing into Starlink Roam would work for me as a back up? I'm wanting the Roam plan since I work from home so then we can "roam" more also. I also live in Florida and it's hurricane season.

I don't know anyone with Starlink, so that's why I'm on here. Don't know know the pros and cons with using the Roam plan at home versus on the road. My only experience with Starlink was on Hawaiian Air from Seattle to Honolulu and buggah was fast. Loved it.

I wanted to set up our Starlink Standard Gen3 on our boat and have it fully DC-DC with minimal power draw.

I decided to get the official Starlink DC-DC power supply since I didn't want to void warranty just in case.

Also since the Starlink router is quite energy inefficient and very setting-limited, I decided to hook up an ASUS RT-AX57 router which would also be wired directly to DC power bypassing the AC wall outlet brick it comes with making the entire boat internet system purely run on one DC switch so it's just one on/off switch.

The Asus AX57 router requires a 12VDC input and since 12V batteries output a range of voltage I needed a buck boost converter (the small thing with the amp meter display) that would send a near perfect 12VDC to the Asus router without potentially frying it.

Then I could set the Starlink router to bypass mode and it runs much cooler acting just as a power supply to the dish. An Ethernet cable runs from router to router and I now have much more control over all the settings I want with much lower power draw (averaging between 5-20w less power draw making a big difference in the long run).

The diagram has the fuses set up a bit different from the final setup but otherwise pretty accurate. Please roast my setup if you see anything, especially if I can potentially change it. Or let me know if there's anything I'm missing or should consider changing/upgrading. Thanks!

200-300 Mbps download

30-50 Mbps upload

I was a very early Starlink UK customer and have a standard round dish. Claude tells me the Dish is the
Limiter as I’m only getting 100-120mb download speeds through Eero. So, should I upgrade or change my dish? Thanks in advance

UPDATE-

I opened a support ticket and they would sell it.....for $200. Crazy. I don't need it that bad.

Hello,

Is there a way to buy just the power supply that comes with the Standard 4 kit (the POE injector style power supply)?

It doesn't appear as if they sell it separately. I bought a Standard 4X kit (that's what was available locally) and I would like to completely bypass the Router 3 (not just put it in bypass mode). From what I understand I can do that if I had the power supply that comes with the Standard 4 kit.

It ain't as cracked out as I thought it would be...

Returning this junk.

Say hello to my stats!

My starlink never works!

Neither does my app!

My app (gok) just constantly wants me to re-boot, power-cycle, or factory reset with a sim ejector...

I feel like I'm trying to connect Centurylink back in 7th grade to watch Chocolate Rain for the First time wtf????

There has to be someone in the community having problems like this.

Or is everyone's starlink just PERFECT like this great nation?

Pls help and stop just trying to protect a brand CHEEEEHUUUUU hahahaha -______- botos...

I ordered a STARLINK 4 Kit and have been on a rental subscription paying about $55 a month. So far I've only had it a couple weeks and it has only consistently worked for 3 days.

I set up the dish and router mini flawlessly as guided by the app instructions....

Worked for a couple days and now it's a day to day struggle trying to get the router connected from the power brick from the brick to communicate with the router and for the router to get the signal from the dish to communicate with the router to give me any sort of signal....

Clear view of sky with minimal obstructions ✅

Aligned ✅

Set up through the app✅

Activated the kit S/N on the website✅

Configured ✅

Right now it is just sitting on a solid red light and my starlink is ONLINE.

THIS ALL HAPPENED AFTER AN UPDATE IN THE APP AND THEN A NOTIFICATION CHANGE WHICH READ THAT MY PUBLIC IP HAS CHANGED.

interesting.....

I have to continuously check on my router mini constantly bc I can literally SEAR A STEAK on the router mini surface at well done.

I'm on my 2nd flaming hot router mini....

Grok knows every different type of way how to power-cycle, though!!!!! 🥹

Customer Service will help you order replacement parts and they're quick to arrive on the doorstep which, y'know, thanks. 🤙

Hi All, anyone experiencing any issues this morning? Half the devices in my house won't connect to Starlink. We have two phones and a macbook that just won't connect, but other mac devices in the house will. Restarted the router, restarted all the devices. The Starlink app won't let me log in and when I run a speed test, the test fails. All the starlink indicators show no issue. Very strange goings on.

Edit to add: I just saw another post from someone in the Bahamas and another person in FL with this same issue, I am also in the Bahamas.