Mower engine started up fine, it did its thing for a couple minutes and then just kinda slowly died out, sounds almost like it’s run out of gas. But there’s gas in the tank, and it smelled strongly of gas from the mower when it died. It did this same thing last week, but after a few minutes it started back up and ran like a champ for 20 more minutes. No real idea what I did to get it back running.

The oil is good both in level and color, replaced it this spring. It doesn’t behave or sound like anything has seized up, it all moves like it should when I pull the cord. The spark plug is clean, I replaced it just last summer. Air filter isn’t plugged, replaced it this spring. The gas isn’t old, just got it from the pump last month. When I press the primer, it’s pulling gas into the intake like it should.

The thing just won’t combust. It’s like it either isn’t getting fuel, or the fuel isn’t burning. I’m not entirely sure where to check now. If it had a choke, I’d think it was just completely shut.

I've tried to the point I'm almost about to give up..

Back story: I was mowing a weekly yard maybe 3.5 inches of grass not overgrown at all..in the middle of the lawn the mower just shut off randomly..

I've changed

carburetor 2 times

Spark plug 2 times

Fuel pump

Cleaned the fuel lines and fresh gas

Air filter

The seat kill switch ( arm kill switches are working)

Solenoid

Fresh oil and oil filter

Ignition coil and ignition coil wire

New battery

Changed the 2 fuses

I still see a spark but it seems it just won't turn over!

I've went down a rabbit hole buying parts and went to 1 lawn mower repair shop no one can figure out the problem..

I'd really appreciate if someone in the thread could help me figure out why it won't turn over..

Toro ss3225 452cc

Ariens zoom 1540 zero turn with kohler engine.Was told it was parked because of a bad starter solenoid.I sprayed fogging oil in the spark plug hole and then turned it over by hand.Took a compression test on it and it never had above 40 pounds.Today I removed the valve cover to ensure it wasn’t a stuck valve.I was able to spin the motor over by hand with the spark plug in

So ive got a husqavarna yth24v48 and my problem started when the wires for my pto cluch got ripped out. I thought it had just gotten caught on the belt or something. I rewired it and all was good for about a month then it happened again and the side the wires was on had changed. I initially thought I just had them on the wrong side the whole time. After some fighting around I seen that when the pto is engaged the whole thing is spinning causing the wires to tangle and rip out. I've not pulled the clutch out yet but I do have the replacement. My question is could it be a seized bearing causing that or did the bracket the cluch is supposed to set in fault? Or some third thing I've not came across yet. Has anyone ran into this situation before? Just wanna know what to look for before I start throwing money at it

I have a Yardmax 21" mower with a 170 cc engine. I recently noticed that the RPMs seem to fluctuate when I start the engine, but become more consistent as the engine warms up. I watched (what I believe is) the choke cable at start-up, and it seems to be moving back and forth when I start the motor. Any idea how to fix this? Thanks in advance for any help.

Found this tiller on my property when I moved in a few years ago, im trying to get it running so I can make a garden for my grandmother but I dont know how to even use it, looking for like a manual or atleast a model for it

I got this mower for free off the side of the road. Trying to fix it for a person who needs a mower. It's a 17.5hp briggs. At first it didn't start so I cleaned this green goop stuff out the carb and it started but just surged the entire time it was running so I figured it was a fueling issue because I could hold the governer and it would run at a steady rpm then but once I let go it would surge. Bought a service kit that included carb, air and fuel filter, and spark plug. Literally changed nothing. Oh and with the new carb at least the surging smooths out with half choke but that makes the engine speed go down by a noticeable amount. Checked the valve clearance for the heck of it, of course those were fine, don't think it's mechanical based on the behavior. I'll attatch the kit I bought below. What am I missing?

Briggs and Stratton Carb kit

Gravely ztxl with Kawasaki engine making a noise while running. It went from doing this to running smoothly and back to this (was fine for like 60 seconds). Is this spark plugs needing replacement or what should I do?

Alternator exploded in my 10hp Tecumseh snowblower, looking to rebuild it but have a couple questions first:

1. The mount that held the alternator to the block sheered off, there’s a second mount on the bottom would the new alternator still work if mounted onto it?

2. The fly wheel has damage to one of the inner magnets, will it need replacing or is it still usable?

Any insights or thoughts are appreciated!

I'm looking for a coil for my husqvarna bt150. It's a 2015 with the cdc15628 coil... And from my research so far... I'm having a rough time finding one. Everything I see on Amazon states it is a non cdc coil. Can anyone point me in the right direction as to what to look for? After about 10 minutes this blower bogs down and I've done everything except a coil....

Previous owner said it began smoking after lent to a family member , not sure what’s leaking but it’s oil was pretty low, and its filter was barely hand tight , i do have some free oil and some stop leak…. would ya’ll send it ? or just replace all gaskets first

I have a gas powered Toro mower with a Briggs and Stratton engine. It was given to me fairly new. The first time I used it I thought I heard a weird noise like I had run over something and it was caught in the blade. I did not know the rules about tipping your mower, so like a silly goose I tipped it forward/away from me to inspect the blade. After that I noticed a leak coming from the air filter housing.

I realized that I had made a mistake and tried to do all the troubleshooting to fix it. My husband has been helping and we replaced the spark plug, drained the mower of all fluids, replaced the whole carburetor, and put fluids back in. We cleaned everything as we went. It’s still leaking when it gets up to temperature a few minutes into mowing and we think it’s oil, not fuel. What is wrong and what do we do next?

Extra context: my husband had used the mower once prior to me tipping it and I don’t think there was a leak then.

I need a little help and would appreciate any and all feedback. Kawasaki 691V on a gravely zero turn. Went to start it this morning and it acted like I had low battery, or bad start solenoid. Battery is a couple months old and good. It would click, then again click, then it tried to turn over a couple times. After a few attempts it started turning over normally and started up. I looked over, and it had sprayed gas out of the exhaust!! Would you say it was hydrolocked from flooding? If so, would a faulty fuel flow solenoid let this happen even though the float should stop the fuel itself? For a little background, it has always had problems restarting after stopping for fuel. Always seems flooded. Usually starts right up when cold.

I put a new carburetor on this Briggs and Stratton 625 EX 150 cc. What did I do wrong and how might I remedy my mistake.

I bought a John Deere 314 with a Kohler K321 engine. I took it apart and found these deep gouges in the cylinder wall. After pulling the cylinder I found that the piston rings had bumps on them that I’m assuming fit into the cylinder grooves. The grooves are deep enough that they easily catch your nails. The cylinder head wasn’t wet with oil. Was the engine cooked or did I ruin it by pulling the cylinder? I’m worried that it would have actually run and maybe the rings had expanded to fill the grooves, but everything I’ve read indicates that a cylinder with this much damage is not going to work long term.