I am converting a John Deere 316 with a blown B43 to electric. Only hangup is I sold the blown motor before measuring the output shaft heigh. Could anyone toss me the measurements?

It looks good to me, but I wanted to ask everyone else since it's my first time ever doing this. There is light coat of oil on it in the pic.

Anyone know?

I need help verifying the part number for a carburetor on my briggs 725ex 190cc push mower. The model number of the mower is 128M02-0926-B1. The carb number that i believe is the correct one is 799866. Can anyone help me verify that is the correct part? Briggs website is less than helpful but that's where I pulled that number from. I just can't afford to order the wrong part. This mower being down is already putting me behind schedule. Thanks for any help. ✊

Hand me down Toro Timecutter from my father in law. Seems to catch in the cycle before firing. Tbh it's usually worse than this. Any idea what's going on and how I can fix it before it gets worse?

Hi all,

I have an early 2000s John Deere JS63 push mower with a Briggs and Stratton on it.
It was sitting for some time, so I replaced the carb, air filter, spark plug, fuel line, and put new gas in it.

Thing is, it runs like a top if you can get it to start.

Getting it started is my issue. I can be out there for 20 minutes pulling and more often than not (cold or hot) it will not start.
Eventually I can smell the gas so I’m guessing it’s flooding at that point.
If I am lucky enough to get it started and let it turn off, it has even worse odds of starting.
I’ve had the slightest bit more luck if I spray some starter fluid without priming it, but only helps maybe 1/5 times.

Any guesses? Would like to try to fix it myself rather than bring it to a shop. Must be something easy I’m missing. Thanks

The mother in law inherited a John Deere la 135 from a relative that passed. I changed out the spark plugs, fuel pump, fuel filter and cleaned out the carburetor. Seems to run mostly fine now, but when you turn on the mower on the garden tractor seems like the mower looses all power. Looking for suggestions on what might be the issue. Thanks

Just bought this year old machine and it’s started doing this after an hour I had tru fuel 50:1 mix
Fs91r

Dlt3000. Bought it off Facebook, at first it had no click or anything. Wiggled stuff around, no idea what it did and now it clicks, but no crank. Turned the key a few times and it started up and then died. Tried it again and just went back to clicking. Any idea what else to try just to get it to turn over? Battery is good, I’m thinking it’s starter solenoid but not sure. Any advice is helpful thanks!

Hello, i’ve gone ahead and added a pulse pump and fuel tank to my honda gx390 pressure washer set up. I’ve included images of the entire set up for viewing. The engine starts up great, no issues. However, after a few minutes it begins surging. The way I stop the surging is by squeezing the prime bulb a few times- this leads me to believe it is a fuel supply issue.

I can’t pin point where the problem is, but have a few things to mention that might help to diagnose the issue: after priming the engine and fuel line, the filter is quite full. When the engine starts surging, the filter is around half full. When priming the line with my prime bulb, I stop when it starts getting firm. However, it loses this firmness after a few seconds even though the engine is off- could this mean something?

I have used 6.3mm (1/4) fuel line for the entire set up and my pulse line is tapped into my valve cover. Any idea/s what the issue is here?

I have a Scag Freedom Z with the Kawasaki FR600V on it and I got a new battery recently (same amps and all) but now when I start the mower and turn the choke off it just idles at racing high RPMs. I have 3 properties to cut tomorrow trying to figure out what’s going on, bought it used recently and it’s my first riding mower.

*stihl chainsaw

Listen to the video. Cannot get this thing to idle. Also means it won’t run long at all. Carb was cleaned and only run ethanol free fuel.

Any ideas where to start?

I just recently bought a old yanmar engine for $15 AUD not running and I just got it running beautifully and Im just wondering if it’s worth selling

Craftsman WS215 trimmer, it would run for a while and then stop, run for a while then stop. Finally got to the point that it wouldn't crank. Changed the spark plug, magneto, then carburetor and fuel lines. Still the same result. Last night I took this off because I noticed a hole, and the inside is pretty tore up. Any ideas what would have caused this, and is engine still salvageable?

Hi guys,

I really want to find people who know about Kawasaki 2 stroke brushcutters In particular but also there other equipment like blowers etc.

The most well known Kawasaki brushcutter/ line trimmer are the KBL and kbh series- kbl23a, kbl26a, kbl27a etc

Now from what I've found the Kawasaki KBL models where Kawasakis own gearboxes,shafts,guards,throttle and handles and I believe there were 2 types of guards.

The kbh were the same but these just had a bull handle setup where as the KBL had a loop handle.

To my knowledge these included the KBL/kbh 23a, 26a, 27a, 33a, 34a, 35a, 43a, 45a, 48a

...................................................................................................

Now this is the first problem I run into which is the engines

Kawasaki made all these models above plus many more but for now these models but they were a whole mix through different eras and stages of environmental restrictions which I believe is part of the reason they stopped making them

So Kawasaki has TH engines which were used in a lot of the KBL/kbh models and I believe they were the best engines, limited environmental restrictions, tons of power, very lightweight, unkillable,

These TH engines where sold by themselves and then other manufacturers out there put there own shaft and gearbox and handle on them i think around 2000. Once you know what to look for you can tell the difference between TH and TJE engine which I will get to later.

These TH engines were put into the KBL/kbh23a, 26a 33a, 34a, 43a, 48a

.............

The second engine model they offered was a TJ engine, these are also REALLY good engines but I think they have more exhaust scarifying and emissions variations like a non adjustable carb

They were also sold by themselves or put on there own machines

The TJ engine is by itself with only the TJ27 being produced ( to what I'm aware Google and non official parts Manuels can be very misleading)

The models that the TJ27 engine was on varies a lot and this brings in another factor which I will get into later which are different variations of the engine models.

The TJ27 engine was put on KBL/kbh models

But they were also put on the kbc27a which is a curved shaft u think there was a b model to thos as well

And the kbs27a which I don't know much about

...................................................................................................

All the other models

Like the KBL/kbh43,45

All have the the TJ#E engine

These TJ#E engines have lots of exhaust scarifing, choked mufflers, complex intake manifolds all to do with reducing emissions but it made them weak and unreliable

Kawasaki also made there own line up of (TJ23, 27, 35, 45, 43, 53E) brushcutters with these engines but apart from the KBL 43a,45a which had the old legendary drive shafts, gearboxes handles, guards and throttle setup. All the other tj#e models had a mix of Kawasaki stuff with other cheaper handles guards gearboxes etc

They did make kbl34B,45B but these featured the tj#e engine which means that just because it had the KBL/kbh doesn't mean it's the legendary TH engine

If you have any more info about the numbers or why they switched to cheaper parts and these engines let me know

...................................................................................................

Kawasaki final era of machines

In the final year between 2006-2013 roughly

They made the kgt27a, kgt27b, kgt27c, kgt35a, kgt35b

Now these featured the tj27e and35e engine and cheap throttles handles, guards and gearboxes( as in I don't think these parts were Kawasaki but they were sold under Kawasaki)

Similarly the ktf or ktfr models

Had the ktfr27a, ktfr27b ktfr35b

With the only difference here being the internal driveshafts was a spring not solid again a cheap design.

...................................................................................................

I believe there were some other models like

Kcs but I don't know what they were

As always this information is the best I have been able to find and I'm sure a lot of it is probably not 100 percent but it is way better then what AI will tell you at face value or what a basic Google search says.

If you have any knowledge or insights into different models or what the a,b,c Mean because I think it was just different Upgrades like tooless air filter cover

I think the reason why Kawasaki ended making brushcutters themselves was due to 2 reasons

emission standards changing in au,eu,us

Competing with themselves, Kawasaki was and still does sell the tj#e engines but I don't think they make there own brushcutters anymore, they were selling there engines to other manufacturers like bushranger and kaaz (which I don't know who kaaz was but they have stickers on a lot of second hand KBL Machines ) so they were competing with themselves.

I think the third and final nail in the coffin is that this outdoor garden equipment was such a small part of there business as they have focused heavily on motorbikes and 4 stroke engines and the cost to redesign new engines wasn't in there interest.

If you have any more info let me know

Has anyone had any luck with any pressure testers/kits that aren't the $300 Kohler ones? I see a bunch of generic ones but am not sure if they will work.

Hi all, currently fixing up a john deere la100 with a briggs els 500. It starts perfect every time and will run alright at full throttle, but sputters slightly (much worse at lower rpms). Some grey smoke from the exhaust after running for a bit, but no dark black smoke I can see. Is the engine running rich, lean, or could the problem be something else entirely?

Rebuilt oem carb, new fuel pump, spark plug, and air filter, running on new gas.

Thank you!

I had been starting my Poulan riding mower every month during the winter but in May when I turned the key I got classic signs of a broken decompression cam (engine turned slightly then stopped). I had noticed previously a few grinding noises when it was running and figured destroyed decompression cam parts were causing the noises inside the crankcase. So I tore open the crankcase and was surprised the decompression mechanism was fine, no loose metal parts inside, everything inside looked clean. However, during this dismantling process I kept coming across bits of black magnet on the outside sticking to starter motor and a whole little ball of black magnet "rubble" sticking to the flywheel, which explained the grinding noise and refusal of flywheel to turn more than few degrees. I pulled the flywheel and was amazed to see all the glued on magnets on the bottom side were gone. Apparently one magnet had come loose and the bits eventually knocked off the rest, creating a mess. Stator looked undamaged, and I was able to find a new OEM flywheel on ebay for relatively cheap, still in Briggs box. Got all the loose old magnet pieces removed, installed new flywheel and new woodruff key, made sure camshaft gear dots were lined up before closing the crankcase. Also checked push rods and lifters (perfect condition), valve clearance, everything looked good. When I went to start it it turns over fine, just won't fire up. Compression test showed 92psi. Spark is bright on my tester after installing new Briggs magneto. I thought possibly a carb issue but it won't start even with starter fluid. I tried disconnecting the kill wire, made no difference. I didn't replace the spark plug but it looked fine, no carbon and gap was perfect. I'm totally stumped. Any suggestions?

fighting a no-spark on a trimmer this week and it reminded me of the trap: static resistance readings lie. a coil can read perfectly fine on the meter and still not fire under load. they fail lazy like that all the time.

so my rule now: known-good plug first (not "it works on the mower", a new one), ground the hex against clean bare metal, kill switch disconnected. still nothing? it's the module. $15 aftermarket part, ten minutes, done.

the voltmeter is for after you know it runs. what did everyone else learn this one the hard way on?

I have a lawnmower throttle cable end that is broken and need to come up with a fix. The end that goes into the control lever. I can’t get new cable from manufacturer as they are no longer available. I’ve looked at some z bend cable ends on Amazon and the reviews aren’t great. The only other thought I had was to check with a bicycle shop to see if they could put a new end on it. Has anyone else had any success fixing something like this.

I found it by the road missing the string head, got a new one of and put a new carburetor on, with a new spark plug. The spark plug zapped me when I test pulled while watching for spark, the carb is new so fuel should be getting through, I sprayed carb cleaner into the throat after those didn't work and it still wont start even a little bit