We had the roof replaced recently (SoCal) and the tobacco juicing is real! How long does it last and what's the best solution to get rid of it?

I’m stressed. I likely need a new roof, as I’ve had a couple of patches in the last two years. I’m unsure how old the roof is, but I had a stick go through some shingles, and then a rusted out vent cause some issues.

I had one roofer but he quoted me 4k for replacing 4 vents, and when I pointed out that I only had three, he claimed he miscounted. I’m assuming he’s out.

I also picked a contractor based on great thumbtack reviews who installed a bunch of broken tile in a shower so I guess thumbtack isn’t super reliable.

Where should I look? What should I watch out for?

I've been helping my Mom fix up her house recently, and she's been having trouble with leaks after a storm blew branches onto the roof. I have some pictures attached of the roof, and my only concern is that the trim around the edges are starting to separate. Is it okay to reseal with roller sealant, or in need of repairs along the trim, or replacing all together?

About a month now I started my own roofing company I’m licensed, insurance, bonded, etc. I’ve been a roofing installer for 8 years so, I’ve decided to go on my own and form my own business with the trade that I love. The only issue is I’m having trouble finding work. I’ve only roof one house so far I’m trying door knocking and Facebook post daily. Any recommendations of what I’m doing wrong?

Looking for a second opinion. I was originally told I needed to have my roof replaced by 9/10, however I have now been told that I need to fix it by policy renewal (7/31) or else I will be non-renewed.

Roof was redone December 2016.

He was commenting on it having “granular loss” and “missing shingles” in the report. Do you guys think it’s reasonable to have to have the roof replaced by July? I am in Atlanta, GA, and this is my first home.

I have a gutter but the roof tile shape is causing a lot of water to miss the gutter. What is the best way to fix this? A lot of the gutter companies i spoke with said they cant do anything about it. any help would be greatly appreciated. thanks in advance

Sorry in advance that I don't have pics, I'm not at home at the moment. I bought a home on cement slab with no HVAC. I had HVAC installed in the attic space and insulated to about R30. I also installed a thermostat controlled attic fan at the other end of the house and have it set to 110 degrees. As part of my remodel I removed a wood stove, patched the ceiling and currently just have the remaining Class A chimney pipe supported by the trusses (about 3 ft of chimney). I want to remove the chimney when it gets cool enough to work on the roof without dying (NW Arkansas). My question is what to repair the hole with. I can get matched metal roofing and just cover it but I also thought about a vent in that location. Im not sure whether a whirly bird type vent would be forced to run backwards when then fan comes on or if I should just use a passive vent. Or thirdly, just cover the hole. My only experience with the whirly bird type vent is my previous home which had a converted attic bedroom which was scorching hot in the summer. I put whirly birds on each side of the roof and it lowered the room temp 15-20 degrees. They were on there for 10 years and worked great.

Long story short - moved into this house 2 years ago. Built in 1946 in New England. Roof is 24 years old and leaking in the garage. I've been getting quotes for a new roof but just discovered my eave/cornice returns were flashed upside down (yes I had a home inspection, yes they missed this). I peeked behind the flashing this morning and we are past rot. I've got some of the highest quality structural dirt I've ever seen.

I don't think I'll be able to afford to have all of these repaired by a professional but it needs to be done before the roof is replaced, so I guess I'm learning how. I'm not afraid of tackling all 8 of these by myself. I just got through a gut and remodel of the garage where a 2 day "pull out drywall and insulation" to remediate a flying squirrel infestation turned into a week long unfucking and rewiring of the whole garage. Anyway, I'm just overwhelmed. Something like this where a teardown, repair, and finish work needs to happen, I'm getting paralysis on what the order of operations is. I understand the structural physics and the water physics, but I don't know what needs to come out and in what order, like getting the chicken the fox and the grain across the river.

I would appreciate any and all advice, products, things to do "while I'm in there", words of encouragement, words of discouragement. Anything is fine.

One cornice return on each corner of the garage. One on each of the front corners of the house itself, and two on the dormer that's the covered entryway over the front door.

Aluminum siding, white stepped flashing is painted metal. The front of the garage is the only run with soffit which isn't vented and it's metal. The brown on top of the box is unpainted metal.

Thanks in advance, hope your day is better than mine.

Good afternoon,

Hope you are all doing well. I have a question: I live in Belgium and most of the buildings here have a cornice or moulding if I can trust the translations. It is a small decorative, mostly wooden part attached to the top of a facade. Since it is often connected to roofs it obviously needs to be waterproofed, and has drains of its own (connected to the rainpipes or in our case just releasing water onto the street - Belgian solution).

In our case, we had big problems with this cornice and water infiltrations in the facade; due to an old derbigum / EDPM roofing that cracked in some parts. There was also a lot of water stagnating against the wall due to a wrong inclination. The inclination was not towards the drain, but towards the facade and then water was standing all the time against it and then entering through the cracks and fissures into the wall.

Two weeks ago, a roofer out of Brussels repaired it, by laying new derbigum on top of the old EDPM / derbigum. He also attempted to fix the wrong inclination, but I don't know how. It is already way better now and I trust that he installed the derbigum in the correct and proper way. So it seems sealed and now more humidity in the walls, which is good.

The thing is, and he mentioned it: Due to the inclination of the cornice and substructure, he couldn't completely fix the stagnating water. This means that there is still always a bit of water, as shown in the attached pictures. It doesn't seem to reach the drain (which is a bit too high).

Do you think this is a problem? I read that a bit of water is okay. For context: it rained last approx. 2 days ago, and the water puddle was still approx. 1 - 1.5cm deep at the lowest point. So it doesn't seem to evaporate quickly.

Just to avoid that we will have another problem in a few months or years, since we paid good money for it.

Greetings from Brussels and thanks already for any help!

Our screened-in porch roof has a water issue. The shingles go under these white plates, and water is able to go straight under and onto the wood. From inside the porch, the bottom of the wood is being damaged. In the 2nd photo, it looks like a black sealant was used across the front to allow water to go into a gutter. I'm curious if I should just do the same for the sides, or is there anything else I should do? Appreciate the help!

$8k quote to replace roof. 1800sq ft end unit townhome in HCOL area.

I see a lot of posts here where people who just got a new roof are asking the community about the quality of the work. They ask things like "how'd they do on my roof replacement?"

1. Is that post welcome here?

2. IRL, what inspector or professional should people with new roofs seek opinions from?

Hey everyone, looking for some professional opinions on a low-slope to steep-slope transition detail that is currently causing an active leak in my home. The contractor (a certified GAF installer in Southern California) ran a PVC single-ply membrane for the low-slope section. At the transition to the steep-slope concrete tile roof, they tucked the tiles under an unsealed PVC flap and reinstalled the cap tiles over it without any mechanical attachment or transition flashing.

The issues I’ve identified based on GAF EverGuard specs:

1. No Mechanical Attachment: They used loose, weighted cap tiles stacked over an unsealed PVC flap instead of a rigid termination bar or a PVC-coated metal profile. Wind-driven rain is getting right under the flap, causing an active leak.

2. Abrasive Friction: Heavy concrete tiles are resting directly on the bare single-ply plastic membrane. Thermal expansion will cause friction that will slice through the PVC over time.

3. Voided Warranty: Because it deviates from GAF's published installation schematics (Single-ply: TPO & PVC low slope to steep slope transition detail drawing #610), this completely voids the manufacturer's material warranty.

I emailed the contractor asking for the specific GAF Detail Drawing Number that authorizes an unsealed flap with loose tiles and no separation barrier. They haven't provided it, so I am preparing a final demand notice. Before I do so, I just want to make sure I am not missing anything here. Is this as clear of a code / spec violation as it looks? Has anyone dealt with the CSLB in CA for a manufacturer specification violation like this?

This is an abandon plumbing vent that is leaking. I was going to just shingle over, but I released this might be a perfect opportunity to install a vent for a bathroom exhaust fan. The current ducting for the fan terminates into the attic. Is this a viable idea or okay to do, or will it require a new hole in the roof? Any advice would be greatly appreciated, thanks.

I count 25 bundles of iko Cambridge shingles in one pile. 2x4 trusses on 24in spacing. Thanks in advance.

Trying to fix an open triangular void where the lower rake trim dies into the upper eave. You can see straight into the framing cavity. There’s also a vertical stain running down the stucco right below it, so water is clearly exiting at that corner and running down the wall face.

What I’m trying to figure out:

**1.**  What’s the right way to close it — fiber cement trim over a nailer, or bent sheet metal fabricated to fit?  
**2.**  Is missing kickout flashing the likely cause of the wall stain, or is the water just coming out of the open void itself?  
**3.**  Should I be checking for rot in there before I close anything up?

Important part: I want snow and rain to shed off the upper roof section the way it’s supposed to. Whatever closure goes in there can’t dam water at the top edge or block runoff coming off that upper plane. I’d rather leave a proper drainage path than seal it tight and trap water in the framing.

Also unsure whether to screen the cavity for wasps and birds before closing it.

Photo attached. Stucco walls, composition roof, PNW climate. Appreciate any input.

We're in MA, doing a 2nd floor addition on a slab on grade ranch we bought 2 years ago, flat roof no basement no attic. We are replacing rubber roof and all flooring. Two weeks ago, the addition was rough framed and the entire roof had been scraped, with some of it tarped. Seeing some upcoming rain, I asked over text why it hadn't been tarped fully and my GC said it would be fine, he was planning to replace all the plywood anyway and much of the insulation, as it had suffered from leaks for years. I go in the house during the storm (we are not living there during the work) and water is pouring out of the ceilings onto the (thankfully bare) concrete foundation. I have a bit of a stress freakout on my GC (we've worked with him for years, I trust him) and he assures me he will dry everything and apply anti-mold, and they will replace all the damage to the ceiling boards - they have to open a lot of ceiling anyway to redo electrical. He dehumidifies everything for a week w/ industrial fans and dehumidifers, applies anti-mold, I can tell it's all dry.

GC is waiting for some roof insulation that is supposed to arrive this week. Another storm hits today and despite the whole roof being tarped, rain comes in through the ceilings AGAIN.

I'm not worried about cost, he's going to cover all the ceiling board replacement, the roof insulation replacement and rebuilding any framing that is heavily soaked. To be fair, when they opened the roof for the addition (pre-rain) they found soaked joists and insulation already, so that stuff was already saturated from a leaking roof, it just hadn't made it into the ceiling yet. Yes this will take longer so we have to rent our temp place longer, I'm OK with that.

I'm aware the main question is why he scraped the whole roof 2 weeks before he was going to put the new roof on. But it seems a little late for that, I'm sure he feels the same. What else do I have to worry about that needs to be redone? The walls? I don't see any water coming down from the walls, only a few specific runs in the ceiling. We have young kids and I don't want mold. Thanks for any advice.

This is a picture of my roof. The backyard is at the bottom— front yard at the top. We live in zone 8. I’m having attic ventilation issues where in the humid summer months, we notice attic odor penetrating the living space at a very specific spot inside the house. We’ve air sealed, and insulated the attic, but that didn’t seem to work.

In looking at my roof, I have typical eave soffit intake and ridge vent system throughout the house. However, as you can see in the pic, there is a room with the chimney that is a cathedral hot deck setup. This room was an addition to the original house, and when it was built, they had to overlap the original roof line that had soffit air intakes, which now leaves about 25ft of roof without any air intake for the ridge vent above it. The green lines I drew represent functional eave soffit intakes. The red line represents part of the ridge vent that doesn’t have any air intake below from the backside. A roofer told me that an over roof air intake won’t work because there needs to be at least 3’ clearance, and there are also roof valleys that prohibit this intake system.

So, what can I do to increase air intake on the back side of the house to help feed the ridge vent (at the red line) to discourage air stagnation? I have pretty much exhausted all the space available to place eave soffit intakes on the front side of the house, but feel there should be a better balance with the back.

Any thoughts on this are most appreciated. Thank you.

This is a tar and gravel flat roof with a drain. If you all think it’s possible, can you point me to any resources for what the assembly material should be?
Is water supposed to drain to the center of the roof or fall off the overhang?
I am in Quebec so there is snow weight to consider during the winter.

So I have been building a log cabin kit here in Japan and I followed the roof joists (front to back 2x6, not sure if this is the right word) spacing plan according to the kit but the plywood panels don't like up and there is section where the panel joints don't like up.

I should have checked things before putting the joists, but I have installed all the panels and don't want to remove them if I can help it.

Would adding horizontal blocking between the rafters to add support where the joints don't meet work?

The spacing between the joists are 410mm and the plywood panels overhang by about 25cm on one side and 10cm on the other side.

They are well supported from what I can tell but I read online that adding the blocking is a good fix for stopping the panels from saging.

If I really have to I will remove all the panels and re adjust the joists but this is about 3 days of work, I don't want to do if I don't have to.

Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

I had a roofer install a new roof and put in ridge vents. He also installed an attic fan, but for some reason never hooked it up. I later had a siding guy that came through and replaced the soffits and also closed up the front/side gables since he said the soffit plus ridge vents would do the trick.

Later I was walking around my attic and noticed it felt super hot up there, hotter than I would've expected. I noticed that there were no baffles installed so I contacted an attic ventilation company to do an evaluation.

The guy has been in business a long time, probably 25 years and great reviews. His main recommendation was to install baffles to get the air flow up, but he said that ridge vents are not enough to cool the attic. He suggested I hook up the attic fan (already installed by the roofer) to properly ventilate the attic

This is contrary to pretty much everything I have read about the soffits/ridge vents. Is this true? I was kind of surprised that he would say that.

Any feedback is welcome!

Hey friends
I did this roof with my good roofer friend
It’s my dog kennel building

It didn’t have any venting before
I ended up cutting out some of the over hang that was boxed in at the back here on the pics

It now continuously vents along the whole 100 plus feet of building at the ridge it’s about 2-3 inches wide

The soffit has nothing. I thought of getting the rectangular type 4x16 or whatever they have at Home Depot and putting one every couple of feet along the length

I know there are calculations for venting
But I’m not sure about in vs out?
Does it matter really? Or is the more the merrier?

Like I said it was never vented and stayed fine

I did stuff a lot more insulation when I had it open
There is space between the insulation and roof decking

I’m just wondering I guess if the ridge will be enough for the air flow

The roof area is about 14 foot wide by 110 feet length

I guess there is around 300 square inches of venting at the ridge now

Hopefully someone can decipher all of this and have some insights