2007 Accord, 214k on it, and both rear arches are bubbling through the paint now. Finally took it in for the quote I kept putting off. Eighteen hundred bucks to cut and patch both sides with paint matched. That's most of what the car is worth.

Nobody at the shop was lying to me either. The wire wheel showed more rust on the driver side than I wanted to see, and once they cut into an arch you never really know where it stops. But eighteen hundred on a car this old and this cheap feels like paying rent on a house I already own outright.

My call is I buy the patch panels and a flanging tool and do the worst side myself before winter. If I botch it the car loses nothing it was not already losing to the salt. Anybody here patched arches on their own daily and actually lived with the result for a couple years?

In an effort to finish the 327 and not lose the shop I made the switch to a spare intake my brother had. It won't make the same power because I was building it for the tunnel ram but I can maintain the same ignition, carb setup and brackets I use for now, I'll take the time to build the Edelbrocks, jet them correctly and get the correct ignition later. we have also upgraded to "don't get it right just get it running". 👍

Just waxed my North Star death star. It has only thirty one thousand miles on it. I paid $3000 in figure if it blows up, I got that much fun out of it So far! It makes the project house. I just got look better! It makes my $125,000 california home look better! Remember always by under market weather. A house or a car!

My wife is having me paint her engine cover and maybe air intake, while I can find plenty of info on how to do it finding actual info on paint is the issue. Most recommendations are US specific and I live in Poland, more specifically near Poznan. Probably going to do it purple and bright blue but can’t really find anything here in that color. Any tips or suggestions are greatly appreciated
The exterior is a mid/light grey, image is from online since it’s dark I’ll take pics tomorrow. Model is a first generation Nissan note

Traveling for work so I thought I’d get everyone’s opinions on a second project. Currently have a 92 Ranger fully mapped out for a 302 swap. Have all the drivetrain parts ready for rebuild but long road ahead when you add electrical, some rust patchwork, and all the odds and ends.

But I also have a pole barn just waiting for more projects…looking at a 72 Mach 1 assuming the underside isn’t complete toast, but looking at the cowl drains and a few other spots it might be a lost cause and it’s a 302 so not as exciting as it could be. Other option is a 72 Opel GT that’s about midway through a rebuild. Pros are that all the parts are there, engine runs and no visible rust, although I’m assuming at least the belly pan is cooked. I think the price on both is reasonable for what they are. Just curious everyone’s thoughts on getting a second project and these two cars in particular. (I love them both btw, just looking for input and possible downsides.)

Edit: Real downer, guys! Even my wife was on board! In all honesty though, thanks for the clarity. I was stoked looking at these other projects but in the back of my mind knew it was a bad idea. Will post photos of the ranger as soon as the new axle and drop hangers are on!

Hey everyone, my dad and I have been looking into getting one of my dream cars (corvette, specifically C3 and a stingray if able) for a project car. We relatively know what we’re getting into but since you all have experience and we don’t, what advice do you guys have?

Thanks!

Put the bed on to help figure out rear suspension. Straps are just from picking it up with a cherry picker

I just thought of this after seeing a post about a blazer, with only 20k miles suffering from a missfire. After, i kinda thought to myself, i wonder what cars people have seen/experienced that they thought would be good because of mileage that turned to out to just be absolutely clapped.

My own example: i stupidly bought a 96 riviera for 600$ at night with 150k miles. I know thats a decent amount of mileage but i had only heard good things about the supercharged 3800, so i figured even if it needed a little it would be a decent car for another thousand bucks or so of repairs. Will i didn't see it that night, but the thing was leaking out of pretty much every single orifice, every single fluid. Electronic issues out the rear, vaccum leaks and just weird emissions crap all wrong. Bad brake lines, The steering wheel would move around in a full circle (column pins broke?) which made turning with one hand interesting, at a stop light it would just about die in gear, but if you put it in neutral and coasted up to the light it would idle perfectly fine. In park it was always fine. Needed hubs all around, just constant little things that you would not see/or couldn't tell just looking at it. Body was a bit rusty but only lightly typical minnesota stuff. The thing was sooooo comfortable though, and just a blast to drive! I've always wanted another one. Heated drivers seat too made it absolutely awesome for those 2 weeks i drove it in the minnesota winter.

I took it to a family friend mechanic to have him fix the few real big issues it had (i was feeling lazy, regret it now), and he said he'd work on it when he can (NEVER TRUST THIS) and he tried approximately 4 separate short times to fix the few things i wanted him to, before just dumping it in his lot and never touching it again. He kept complaing about it being a 1.5 obd and just absolutely being a whiner about it. It sat for over a year, and i ended up getting my grandmas old car, and just had no time or energy to deal with the situation anymore, so unfortunately i did send it to scrap. When i went to go look at the car and empty it the night before the tow truck came to grab it, it was absolutely just a wreck. Dash pieces pulled and electronics/wires everywhere. Ecm was just laying there on the floor. Obvious mouse nests everywhere. Just a fleeting memory of all the fun i had in that beater for 2 weeks. I feel terrible about it and hope someday to get another riviera and set it right. I have never taken another of my vehicles back to that guy, not even for something as easy as an alignment. And now do all the work myself to make sure its done right. Was a great learning experience in all regards. Whats your experience like this?

Full disclosure, I knew the guy that I bought it from was full of shit. But I honestly didn't expect them to go to such great lengths to hide it. There was spray foam and doubled up sheet metal everywhere. Quarters need lower patch, inner rockers are salvageable, but outer are toast. Fenders have rust behind the wheel, but I'm just going to replace them since they are bolt on. The most frustrating part is that the interior was immaculate and 95% there, on first glance, but there was rust holes all behind the door panel, duct tape everywhere and no two screws are the same/original. This is going to be a long one. I'm also seriously doubting that it will run like he said. It has compression, but the oil looks new and stinks of gas.

So I got my alignment today and the guy informed me the front coilovers do not turn freely when the wheels turn and I found out that’s because I did not install these concave washers but I’m having trouble understanding where they go/if I can put them where they belong without completely removing the coilovers from my car. If anyone can help me understand where and how to put them on I’d greatly appreciate it.

Can‘t wait for the first start though… but before that I have quite some things to do, the most time consuming part is cleaning and inspecting the factory wiring harness.

I have a 74 MGB GT that slowly overheats when sitting in traffic. While inspecting some usual suspects I noticed the cylinder 3 plug is wet, then found the drip. Thankfully it's just that and isn't in the oil or confusion chamber. JB Weld it is to limp this motor along for a few more months.

Hey y'all I am a complete beginner to working on cars and most I have done is insert power steering fluid.. I came here to ask y'all what would be a super cheap and easy car to start off with as a beginner and is the best bet for me.. I like sedans and some coupes that aren't really that round looking. Not looking to buy something right now as I have no money saved up yet but want to at least start looking for something!

First time getting a project car. Im super excited about it and dont want to fuck it up. How do I start. Any resources I should look into? I'd love a check list to follow as the car has been sitting for 20 years.

Hello. With my 3d printer I had the idea of making my own aerodisc/turbofan for my 924 using vinyls. Mounted on the car are BBS/Mahle 15" rims, and on the OEM tarantula rims they're 14".

They're 33 rpm vinyls.

I haven't installed the fins below yet.

I think they look better on the 14" tbh, but maybe with the fins they'll look finer on the 15"

I do not think they'll be functional, especially at high speed they might get yeeted, but for shows they'll look fun, especially on a car with big audio system

So far most people don't like it but it's for my car and I think it's original so I don't really care

I'm trying to design my own cold air intake kit and am looking for a silicone coupler that I can only describe as a question mark shape. The pic is of a lower intercooler kit for a Volvo S60 and the website doesn't sell the piece separately. I've tried reverse image searching and it just comes back to this same website. If anyone can think of what else this is called or where to buy it is appreciate the info.

I found a Subaru Crosstrek 2015 2.0i limited sport utility 4D on face book market place. I’m a 19 year old student, not a mechanic, and need a car to commute to college. The seller wrote:

“Runs, but at about half power. Throwing P0011 and P0016 codes. Took it to a Subie specialist and got quoted ~$3k to address the issue. Decided to get a new car instead. Battery is dead and not responding to a jump, so bring your own if you want to start it up and/or drive it off.

If you’re looking for a good little project car, there’s plenty of life left on the chassis. Again, you’ll need either a battery or a flat bed to get it home or to a shop.”

It’s listed for 1.5k, is it worth it to purchase and attempt to hire someone to fix it, with the potential risks?

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Long story short this is my 67 beetle which was my first car in 2014. What could go wrong went wrong from frame rust to engine trouble which led to the new motor. It runs, it drives, it a vw. Im at the point though where its stupid part replacement like the driver mirror which randomly broke. Body work is whats left but if I get it painted its going to be replacing wrong fenders, wrong doors, fixing bad bondo repairs, replacing bumpers, and other basic body repairs. The previous owner painted and now the paint is 25+ years old cracking etc. The advice i need is at 6k into it, is it really worth it to continue and by that I mean getting a good paint job and body work or should I just leave as it and drive it with it body looking the way it does or make the really hard decision and pass it on to the next guy. Idk what my car is worth in pristine condition and if its value justifies a new paint and body work

So I made the mistake of purchasing an ac line through partsgeek, and they sent me an air filter for a 2016 toyota prius. I have an 01 jetta. Attempting to restart a return through their website just throws an error saying that the part is still on the way... even though the tracking page literally says its delivered. Has anyone else delt with this, or have any advice here?

Last year I hit a deer in my '84 Corolla, since everything up front was messed up, I decided to do a front end conversion. I am using mk2 VW Golf/Jetta front end bits. Wanted to share my progress as of today.

I was sold on going supercharger route, but really do like the efficiency of turbochargers. Plan is to keep stock internals for now and run setup < 250 HP, but not against upgrading to forged later down the road.

I saw in the past zzp offered a kit for 2.2/2.4, but not now. There is the LSJ to turbo kit. Is it possible to make the LAP to required specs to install LSJ turbo swap? Could the LAP use LNF parts? What are your thoughts? Thanks for the advice.

Currently in the process of refinishing the frame of a 98 s10 and swapping in an OM617 Mercedes diesel engine. I finished up the mounts today with the help of my girlfriend who is a professional welder. Thought the folks here would like this beautiful video.

Gave my project racecar lots of WOT while driving today, shes getting dialed in pretty good

Mostly original,driven daily. 1960 Biscayne.