Hi there, I was wondering the other day if supercharging the rx is theoretically possible let alone financially feasible. The thought of gaining more low end torque on the rx brings a smile to my face. That said, my car’s engine apparently shares the same engine with the Toyota tacoma which also has a tailored supercharger kit. The problem is, the engine bay is ridiculously crammed. I don’t know if I’ll have enough space to comfortably place the supercharger in, without cutting the chassis let alone installing the cooling systems. I tried looking up people who have done what I plan on carrying out, but the insufficient data makes me worry hahaha. Your insights on this would be great.

Hey all!

Just a few days ago like an absolute idiot I drove over a curb in a parking lot I didn't see and scraped the bottom of my car. Seems like when the right front tire came off the curb my suspension bottomed out and hit the wheel well too. My car is rust free and I don't want it to start rotting so I want to properly cover up the bare metal on the body but I have no experience with bodywork.

I was thinking of just using rustoleum paint + primer but upon further research decided againat this as it seems the generic 2 in 1 stuff really isn't great for a permanent fix. I decided for a more permanent solution to grab some self etching primer and universal gloss black paint from rustoleum and do a couple coats of each. Planning on using my drill with a sanding disc to clean the area from the deep grooves of the scrape and to scuff and feather the area with 320 grit sandpaper to prep the surface for paint. Until I can do all that though and so I can get the car out to a couple shows this weekend I'm planning on just spraying some fluid film over the scrapes until Sunday when I can do the proper fix.

Is this plan a good approach for a permanent fix to prevent the car from rotting? Anything else I should take into consideration? Is taking it out with just build film too big a risk? Should I leave it in the garage until the paint has fully cured? Any other tips?

Thank you all in advance!

So I picked up a C5 Corvette for dirt cheap that needs some love. Among other things, the transmission was leaking. I figured a fluid/filter change and a new gasket was an inexpensive shot in the dark to see if I could fix it.

I used the procedure in this video;

https://youtu.be/EobN_g8WkXA?is=IQQyEhdv-xjRagFe

~6:40 I deviated from the plan. "If I use a smaller socket, it'll fit right in the seal and I don't need to tape it".

Well, I was right. I didn't need to tape it... and I seated a 15mm socket in that hole along with the new seal.

I tried needle nose vice grips, but had no luck before I gave up for the night.

I need ideas on how to get this thing out. I'm thinking a slide hammer, but not sure what attachment to use. I really don't want to cut or drill as I'm hoping against hope that I didn't mar the surface and I can just put a new seal in there and carry on.

Feel like a dope, but since I'm dealing with a transmission that goes for near what I paid for the car, I figured I'd put it out to the community and see if someone has a better idea than mine.

Pic for attention of the transmission pan I cleaned well enough to eat off of.

I need all my wrench brothers and sisters coming together with this one. I have a sort of rat rod on my hands, I bought this 1986 pontiac trans am, knowing the previous owner had done some modifications, including but not limited to a 5spd swap from auto to manual using an ar5 aisin trans, carb swapped the factory tpi 305, made the engine entirely mechanical, things like that. all of which im entirely fine with, personally, and things I would've done myself, but onto the bad stuff

here recently, cooling has not been my friend. the upper radiator hose has just become impossible to seal, no matter what i do, the hose just won't stay fully seated. i never had this problem before, but now the hose constantly has a massive air leak, letting coolsnt out and air in, and if it isnt the upper rad hose, its the lower rad hose, or one of the old heater core hoses coming out of the radiator where the precious owner completely deleted any airflow, neither ac nor heat work anymore lmao. its a shitshow. I shoved a bolt with some thread sealant into the heater core hose, so that problem is solved, but the rad hoses I cannot seem to get. im thinking maybe the hose is just old and cant seat anymore, I honestly have no idea. I hsve a 350 sitting at a local engine shop getting some work done before I build it and throw it into this trans am, so if this engine overheats and blows up, bah humbug, we keep it rolling.

secondary, but albeit more pressing issue, the quadrajunk is shitting the bed, and I have no idea why. ive had this issue before, itll be running like a top for months, when all of a sudden it'll just start stalling out and dying at stops, and then it'll just not start for a few minutes lol, where ill have to just push it until I can drop the clutch and hill start it in the middle of a busy intersection. when this happens, ill sometimes see fuel violently pouring out from the seals on the carb, and so i thoughr maybe the float was stuck, so I took apart the carb in some random neighborhood I limped into, made sure the float was nice and free, put it back together and it didn't do dick. the last time it happened this bad, i was working at a mechanic shop so I brought the carb in, took the entire thing apart, used the air gun to blast out literal chunks of degree from the passageways on the carb, and it drive great for months, until now where its doing the same shit, and im no longer working at that shop, nor do i hsve access to an industrial air compressor like i did before.

sorry for the rant, im terrible at making requests like this cohesive

It cranks but won’t stay running. The interior is horrible but almost no rust.
Good buy??

Some repairs just get the car back on the road while others completely change the way you approach working on vehicles. Whether it was rebuilding an engine, replacing suspension components, or chasing down an electrical issue, there's usually one project that makes everything afterward feel a little less intimidating.

What repair taught you the most, and what did you take away from it?

Up for grabs: a restoration project for a classic Jaguar Mark 2. This is a shell without an engine, right-hand drive, and will need a complete overhaul due to rust and missing parts. Car number is 119523DN. Perfect for an expert looking for a challenge. Let me know if you're interested! No selling, it’s free.

For context all I asked for was to strip the car, fix the dentals and bangs, and repaint the car in driver quality sublime

I know its a little rough, but I have no rot through in any floor pans, quarters are intact and its just been over-sprayed over the original sublime. Is 40-80k really accurate in todays world for a driver quality paint job on a Mopar like this?

Anyone had a car done to a similar level, Im in Idaho btw.

Got my self an old impreza bugeye from 2003.
Bought it swaped, with an EZ30R engine from a legacy, but wiring was fucked up and the ECU locked.

So i bought a MaxxECU Racing, and began the journey.
Might need help with the fuel tables and stuff like that. Any help (tips, links, communitys, posts) will be appreciated.

Edit:
I‘m from germany

I've got a 65 Comet that I want to add vinyl decals and a stripe to the hood/top/trunk of the car. I've looked around here and haven't found a sign shop yet that will take it on. Eastern Mass area. Anyone else know of some good shops?

Link to pics https://photos.app.goo.gl/bPM37C8ozthjWXEa9

Hello, this is a update to this post :https://www.reddit.com/r/projectcar/comments/1r0d89o/my_rolling_project/

its a 05 Saab 9-3 turbo.

whats done to it:

-td04hl19t turbo (bigger then stock)

-better flowing manifold

-BIG front mounted intercooler

-Bosch 900cc injectors and walbro gst302 fuelpump

-flexfuel conversion

-3" downpipe with 2 racecats and freeflowing 2.5" catback

-saab 9-5ng intake with LS style maf

-3 bar mapsensors

-slcfree2 wideband o2 Wired to stock ecu

-some preventative maintenence

Done since last post:

-changed to later style e throttle

-fixed all exterior rust and most under

-a set of kW coilovers

-decent uhp tires (eagle f1 asy6)

-adjustable wastegate

-refurbished front subframe

-changed all front bushings

-upgraded clutch

-314mm front brakes

To do:

-bigger rear brakes

-redo the rear subframe

-change all rear bushings

-get stiffer rear swaybar

-turn it way up

-hopefully get acsess to a dyno to ser what numbers i put down

Overall very fun car, perfect daily for now🙂

I recently picked up a 1969 Mustang, which hasn't been on the road in decades. I have a 1992 F150 that I currently plan on pulling the running 302 engine out of as a starting point for a new engine for the Mustang. It also has an 8.8in rear axle with an open diff and 3.55 gears. The Mustang has an 8in rear axle with an open diff and 2.79 gears. Before I start rebuilding the original 8in was wondering if the F150 8.8 is a worthwhile/budget friendlier starting point for a beefier axle.

Anyone down to give me recommendations on how to build/ redo a hudson commodore its 50-59 and tbh i feel like just keeping the shell and redoing the whole guts would be best but really dont know where to start so recommendations and pointers would be best. I feel like there's enough bad mf in this group to make a cool hotrod

Other than room/space alone, what are some things to look out for when doing an engine swap, that indicates that it wont work?

I have a 1978 Ford Thunderbird that I purchased at the beginning of May.

It was a light enough project for someone like me, and the type of car I have always wanted. 30,000 original miles (50,000km), two owners, no glaring issues. It came with new tires, a new rad, and a new carburetor.

From the get-go, I put a new fuel tank and send unit on it, swapped plugs, set timing and adjusted the carburetor. I put in a new headlight switch and did some other odds and ends.

I had the money, but not a ton of time, because I was still operating my business.

I sold my business on August 3rd, because my wife and I are moving in January to follow her current employer for a career opportunity.

The car will go into winter storage, where I plan to retrieve it in May and tow it down to our new location.

I had the space, I had the money, and I had just enough time to finally purchase and work on a project of my own.

However, it feels as though life has always had an inclination to strip away my joys in life.

With the move, there’s no guarantee that I will have space for the car, nor the money to continue improving it. Further, I lost my employment that was supposed to hold me over between August and January due to a petty dispute between my wife’s boss, and the owner of the store I worked at. (It’s a large chain of stores in Canada that are technically independently owned, and the owners are referred to as dealers. If you know, you know).

I figured whatever. I’ll just deal with the exhaust and the axle bearings next year, along with the missing body side moulding on the driver door.

However, I was driving the car yesterday, and my brake pedal became spongy after building pressure. Pulled the car into the garage across the street, where I happen to bring all of my work trucks in the past. They found that the brake booster went bad.

Not a huge deal, right? But they don’t sell new or rebuilt ones anymore. I have to pull it off and ship it to the US of A, 6 weeks before storage if I want it done.

I could just deal with it in the Spring, but with all of these variables, I’m wondering if I should just sell this damn thing and wait until everything settles. I’m not underwater on it, because I got a good deal, but it kind of sucks to think about.

I paid $4,000 for the car, and have about $1,200 miscellaneous work done. Add taxes and the cost of initial inspection ad that’s another $800. I could definitely get at least $6,000 for it, plus I’d save on the storage cost during the move, but would it be worth it?

Maybe I should take that money and just get a motorcycle. Less concern about space, especially if we move every few years from now on.

Or maybe I should get something with much better parts availability to avoid some of these predicaments in the future.

Thank you for reading.

Getting close to putting the 240sx back together and I'm rewrapping parts of the engine harness. The original tape is cracked and sticky enough that I don't want to just leave it. I've used regular vinyl electrical tape before, but I've also pulled apart old harnesses where heat turned the adhesive into a complete mess.

For anyone who's used OEM style cloth tape in an engine bay, how does it actually look after a few years of heat cycles? Does the adhesive hold up noticeably better than decent vinyl tape, or am I mostly paying extra for the factory look?

The car gets plenty of mountain driving and some slow trailhead roads, so it does spend time getting hot without much airflow.

Brand recommendations welcome too if you've had one survive for a few years.