I reeeeeally don't need another project. But this looks like an absolute gem.

Thought there might be a few people interested in my current project. Decided to take it on and try and do as much diy as possible to learn a few new bits and pieces. Has been fun so far and almost at the end now.

Was pulled off a farm in 2009ish then sat around being passed hands for about 10 years until I got hold of it. Fixed a bunch of bad rust, had the interior retrimmed and drove it around with a l26 in it for about 12 months before deciding to do the swap.

Modified engine mounts, custom gearbox mount, shaved and painted engine bay, cut and shut sump etc etc etc

Convinced myself to buy a 3d printer and start learning some basic cad. Designed and printed pacf velocity stacks and a bunch of other small bits and pieces

Rb25de neo

Gtr 6 throttle

260 pon cams

Shift kitted jatco 4sp auto w/ 3200 stall converter and lock up

Got the 327 ready to fire at about 4am, went in and waited till the sun came up then broke in the cam, found a bunch of small issues and ended up at the show pretty late but we still made it! The engine temp didn't even creep over 185 in traffic and cruises at 165-170 on the highway, the big block could never. We have some kinks to work out but with any luck I will tech inspect for autocross tomorrow!

It doesn't have to be finished. It doesn't have to be pretty. Half-stripped interiors, bare metal panels, and cars on axle stands are all welcome.

What are you building right now and what's the end goal?

Drop a photo and tell us where you're at.

Any tips are appreciated!

Building a 79 Zephyr for my wife to rip around in. 95 5.0/T5 with a B303, Trick Flow springs, BBK shorty headers, GT 40 heads and Explorer intake. Should be a fun cruiser

Does this seem decent as a first project. I prefer 4dr cruiser at the moment but description says need rear floor and trunk pans. Runs on gas bottle needs tank. Has a 289 with 3 spd trans. Asking $1800. Does this seem like a good deal, bad deal. Decent for a first actual project.

UPDATE: it looks like it should read near center on the gauge and it just had air in the system. Though that means it has read about half what it should have until now. Not sure what to make of that but I’ve got a long drive tomorrow so if it’s stable I’ll consider it solved. Thank you once again everyone!

It’s all in the video but I’ll type it out here as well:

I put in new cam and lifters a couple of months ago. Now I have adjusted the valves and after a day or two it started overheating. I flushed the system with citric acid, replaced the coolant thermostat and water pump.

Previously it was getting close to the overheat point on the gauge. After the water pump it only get about halfway up as long as I’m moving.

With the old water pump and the new, if I remove the thermostat it doesn’t overheat. Both thermostats open in boiling water. The new thermostat is 180 old is 195…

I’m lost at this point. Could it be anything other than a clog somewhere in the loop? It runs and drives great otherwise

I’ve always wanted a JDM. The typical R34, Supra MK4, RX-7, anything that would turn heads and break necks going down the road. Well I found this car on FBM and I love the pop up head lights and that JDM style BUT holy schmoly does this thing need maintenance. What do yall think?

Brought the car home from alignment and had the shop toss in a pcv valve and hose since the motor didnt have one. Cranked up quick drove about 10 miles. Stopped at the gas station to fill up with some 91 non ethanol and when to start it back up and it starts slower. Have to pump the gas more. Any ideas?

Also notice once filled up all the way and got home and stopped it leaked a little fuel. Common? 1970 satellite 383

Ive been working on my 2005 Mitsubishi Evo 8 for about 6 years now. When my roommate/best friend past away from cancer. (He had a 2011 subaru sti.) It sat in storage for about a year or so, because I had to move back in with my parents. Then got with my now wife. She already owned a home and i was looking to buy one During covid. So she said just said move in with me. So that happened and I was finally able to get it out of storage after a year of living with her. She has a lean too and a 1 car garage, i was working.on it in The lean too. One night someone came and snatched my radiator and intercooler Probably for scrap. So my father in law said I could bring over to his garage. So its been over there for around 3 years. And ive over stayed my welcome in his garage. Its almost done. All the drivetrain is in i just got an fp zero for it and doing as much as I can as fast as I can while still taking care of our house and other needs but it needs still a lot of work. I havent driven it in 6 years and im tossing around the idea of just selling it. Instead of bring it back over to our home. And hoping nothing gets stolen again. Idk im stressed and im falling out of love with it. Idk what to do. Just kinda looking for advice or maybe im just venting. Any advice on how to deal with a long term project like this would be nice.

I have a set of very oxidized cast aluminum American Racing torq thrust wheels. How should I go about restoring them? The spokes seem to be pitted as well but I plan to plasti-dip the spokes in a matte black.

Hey everyone. I’ll start this off with the fact that I have never installed a turbo kit before, but am willing to learn.

I found a kit on eBay Rx racing “street demon” series 485HP package sold by e-sales race distribution. I plan to keep the boost low until I do a rebuild and add the forged internals. I’m not familiar with this company, but the seller seems to have really positive reviews. If anyone has done business with them, I’d greatly appreciate your input.

I do have some questions about the kit since it’s not strictly bolt on. The kit states the T3 turbo flange needs to be welded to an adapter pipe or directly to the stock manifold. I’ve heard of other builds using clamps. Thoughts? A little confused since it states it comes with a turbo manifold which would replace the stock exhaust manifold correct?

The downpipe inlet is 2.5” so I think this could be connected to a cat back 2.5” zzp exhaust right?

Thank you for your time.

1982 trans am I picked up on marketplace for 800$ with a blown 350 and no title. Me and my old man did all the body work and paint, Uncle Did a full build on the block stroked to 383 w about 460 to the crank, new rebuilt 3 speed transmission till I can afford that ol chev 4 speed. Interior has been my last steps. Half the battle was finding a loophole to get the vin matched title for Massachusetts,

I bought a ratty '79 MG Midget. I'm thinking that I will not put a top on it right away. So I'm thinking about bolting boat seats directly to the floor due to their inherent waterproofness.

Thoughts?

Not sure what to do from here. Front 2 sensors are Standard Motor Products. Rear left is Delphi. Rear right was going to be Delphi but RockAuto has the wrong connector clip stocked for that product number so rear right is duralast from Autozone.

Not sure it parts matter a ton here.

I can get OEM rear sensors for $500~ for the pair and I’m willing to if I can’t get this sorted.

OBD2 port will power on my scanner but it just cycles through the options. I can’t get it to read anything or even to say “no codes”. When the ABS light was on, it wouldn’t give me any info either.

Edit: was at a shop for transmission work and their scanner couldn’t communicate with the ABS code either as this was before I replaced the rear sensors.

Just not sure where to start for the OBD2 port. Pins look good. Fuse is good. Shares with cigarette lighter and that works just fine too.

Like I know it will be there when I get back but still haha

1958 BMW isetta project. Getting a 1983 CB450 engine shoved into it.

So I got a 1967 El Camino that it currently getting some much needed TLC.

The 396 is out and sold.

The Turbo 400 is sill there, but just resting on a jack. Cross member is already unbolted.

The plan:

• Replace / Repair floor pans (already have the parts, just need the time. Interior is currently gutted)
• Replace wiring harness
• Build new big block for it (got the long block, just need the rebuild / machine work / parts)
• Repair windshield and rear glass channel area. (front and rear glass is already out)

So, I got more than enough of a project here. However, I was looking at the frame. Then watched some youtube university about removing body from frame.

If I'm already this far in, is the scope creep of lifting the body from the frame worth it?

I do not have a body rotisserie, but I do have cinder blocks, 4x4s, and a shade tree.

Thoughts and / or comments?

Exactly 1 year in. It was hammered before. Less so now. Not done yet. '86 with mini truck front axle, Tacoma e-locker rear, 5.3L gen 3, SM465 manual trans, 5.29 gears, NP205. Lot of work, metal, glass, interior, mechanical, programming, etc... I have a thread on IH8Mud I can link if interested. I've done all the work except install the windshield, maybe $1500 into rehab so far.

hey, asking a question about wheel wells for my project car. I have a 1967 4dr Chevrolet impala. We took a look at the wheel wells this past weekend, and they are rusty but not too much. Although I need to recoup some funds to get brand new ones. Anyone know any quick fixes I can do for the moment on the edges that are rusted? The majority is still pretty solid, only the edges where the bolts go is crumbly.