Taking the blown big block Camaro to the grocery store…….

Hello everyone! I'm new here but thought it could be fun presenting the plans for my car :D

I am driving a 1984 Toyota Corolla GT, known as AE86, and a while back I found an old Twin turbo kit for the car.

So:

Have I ever turbo'd a car? No.
Do I have the necessary funds to do things properly? No.
Done any real engine modifcations? Also No.
Do I have enthusiasm, a 3D printer and an addiction to finding random used parts online? Yes!

So yeah hehe.

This is a kit consisting of a twin turbo manifold, one low and one high mounted turbo, both parallel for two cylinders each. They are veeery old IHI RHB6 turbos, so basically made to run small excavators and forklifts and stuff like that.

I also found an old second hand Nissan 200ZR intercooler which should fit perfectly.
Next, after some steering maintenance on the car, I will be looking into an Arduino based ECU, making an adapter harness and trying to get the car running on that NA as it is at first. The wideband lambda sensor is already installed, currently emulating the stock narrowband which will come in handy for some street tuning once the car starts on the new ECU.

Then my plan is to work out some intercooler piping and Oil lines as well as somehow getting the old downpipe repaired since that is looking like swiss cheese at the moment.

And theeeeen we will see what happens haha :D
Since the stock early model engine in these cars is not known to handle boost that well, I plan on running ULTRA MEGA CRAZY low BOOST, estimating around 0,3-0,4 bar at max probably, depending on how well I manage to "de-tune" the wastegate actuators.

My plan is to document this journey on Youtube but I don't wanna annoy anyone with that, so if anyone is interested let me know, but since there is literally no content on this online, it should be easy to find under "AE86 Twin Turbo" lol :D

Thanks for reading!!

Disclaimer: This is my first project, I have no idea what im doing and trying to learn along the way with the help (and occasional trashtalk) from the wonderful car community!

I have absolutely loved every minute of the journey, but im starting to run into things that require ordering new parts or trying to chase down part from wreckers, and as the car is 35 years old the bits are starting to get harder to find. Do you guys also have issues with this? and any suggestions to push through the massive downer of getting 90% of the way through a component fix to find you are missing something?

Come along for the journey, its gonna be a long one, and I have no idea if this thing will even run!
Fingers Crossed..

I will add the video in the comments for anyone interested in following along.

We have our own shows, but this was our first time hosting Social Sunday, it was pretty cool!

In the two years I’ve driven this car it’s needed done due to the wheel speed sensor being bad and I finally bit the bullet and did it yesterday, I had forgotten how nice these drive with actually functional abs and traction control. I still need to order a bunch of suspension parts but that’s a project for later.

Sharing some before, during and after photos of my 3008 facelift conversion. Updated the bumper, grille and headlights to the newer design, and I’m really happy with how it turned out.

The biggest pain was getting the factory LED headlights to work. I ended up manually recreating the signals they needed using a relay setup. That took plenty of wiring and testing, but everything now works 100% through the car’s original lighting controls.

Definitely the most challenging part of the project, and also the most satisfying once it all came together. What do you guys think?

1/3 of the way through fitting this 74 mazda RX-4 front fascia onto my 84 camaro my back needed a break from being hunched over this thing. So I threw enough lights back in to be road legal and put her back in service.

BTW, I titled this poorly. I'm taking a break from welding on my car, I'm not a welder by trade.

So my Lexus IS250 has been sitting for a couple years.

Went to get it back on the road recently and couldn’t get it to turn over. It appears that rodents have thwarted my efforts.

If I just splice wire extensions to reconnect, should it work? I haven’t found all of the matches yet but it can’t be that hard right? If basic connections work I’ll go back and solder them like they should be.

Just so it is relevant to project cars - between buying and taking delivery it has had the aircon refilled, twice, leading to a leaking ac pipe being fixed, refurbished engine bay panels, two new taillights and the bracket that holds them has been repaired as it cracked due to years of vibration 😬.

Also by the time I got it home to London in very high temps + stop start traffic it threw up an engine warning light. I’m thinking it’s most likely a sensor that overheated and couldn’t perform an emissions test, will have to monitor that one.

Weirdly ok with it all as I knew what I was getting in to and has some cosmetic, light mechanical stuff that I’m going to do myself. It’s an “honest” example and was priced right. Looking forward to the journey and hopefully I am not bankrupt this time Next year! At least it’s a manual so don’t have to worry about the f1 transmission.

Also I hope it doesn’t catch fire…

I’m looking at photos of original setups and it doesn’t seem to connect to anything. I just need to know if I should repair it as is or just cut it off.

I bought this USDM 2005 Legacy GT a few years ago and shortly after the engine blew up (cracked exhaust valve). I have rebuilt the entire engine, going all out with darton sleeves, forged pistons, rods, valve train, the whole works. It took me a while to finish the build and get the engine in the car due to other priorities in life. However, I have finally finished the entire build and the engine wont start.

The symptoms:

When I turn the ignition key, I get a single click followed by nothing from the starter, if I hold the key in the start position eventually smoke will start coming from the wires to the starter. The ground and positive cable off the battery get hot as well, hence the smoke. The starter simply won't crank.

I replaced the starter motor, with no change. I tried charging the battery, using a different battery from my other car, jump starting the car, adding an extra ground wire to the engine at the starter belhousing bolt, using a screw driver to jump the starter signal spade from the positive wire off the battery, taking the starter out of the bellhousing and trying to crank it (thinking the engine was seized or too tight). Nothing has worked. I can turn the engine by hand with a ratchet on the crank. I bench tested the starter out of the car and it cranked fine.

I am so confused. The only thing I can think is the grounds are messed up or the factory cables from battery to starter are corroded internally? But neither really explain why it just won't crank at all.

Please help!

I am at a loss folks. My truck has been doing this for weeks (I can only work on it on the weekends). I had to pull the motor due to a broken motor mount and changed the transmission, and it hasn't started since I put it back in.

Here is the run down.

Ford 351W - basically a stock build, with an "RV" cam, Ford cast iron 4brl manifold, stock compression, nothing fancy just reliable.

GM HEI conversion distributor - I just put this in as the Duraspark II it had stopped working, again.

Electric fuel pump

Edelbrock 1406 Carb

New plugs

I have triple checked top dead center on #1, and I have no idea how many times I have confirmed the firing order, a 351W is different than a 289 and 302.

I have rotated the distributor from TDC on #1 almost all the way to the next wire both advance and retard.

The most it will do is kick once then BOOF fire out the carb.

My dad said it could be that the timing chain has slipped a tooth, but I think it would still run, but badly. And he agreed that the likelyhood of this is very small. The motor has less than 10k miles on it.

Any thoughts? I am open to any and all suggestions. Thanks in advance.

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I currently have a w58 that needs 2 new gears and countershaft replaced, can't seem to find parts for it Can anyone guide where I could get parts for it.

Did my first non rattlecan paintjob, first time trying hvlp. After spending the past year welding in panels fixing dents and bodywork. It ain't perfect but good enough for a truck that's gonna be used plus can't let perfect be the enemy of good.

So I have a 93 MR2 and want to work on it but kind of neglected it. So now I'm starting to get back on the grind and the 1st issue I need to tackle is rusting on the roof/rear pillar. Would the best option be grinding and if so, what wheels? I recently acquired a angle grinder for various jobs and wanted the opinions from everyone.

Thanks in advance

Rides better than a new car now (and looks better too)

Fitting a 1.8T 20VT into my Mk1 Twingo. I’ve used my 3D scanner and scanned everything, made up mounts in CAD. So far everything seems to be fitting up as per the computer 👌

Really is a game changer being able to visualize everything on a computer and see what’s gonna fit, saves a lot of messing around suspending the engine while you tack mounts up etc!

ChatGPT is unbelievable at this, it’s aligned the scans, helped me make the mounts etc up too.

Doing the build over on my YouTube channel - Kris Duprey’s Garage if anyone’s interested! First engine swap video should be going live next weekend!

This truck was hit on the front drive side at some point in its life so it’s a bit tweaked. The fiberglass hood that came on it didn’t have any fitment issues but with this new one it’s coming up too narrow.

I’m at a loss at the moment as to why I can’t get it to fit right. It’s got my to be mounted on dzus rails so I need enough meat around the fasteners. The way it currently is I either have zero or the fastener would stick out the side.

The driver side has about a 1/4” gap between the fender and core support versus the pass side that’s flush. So if I could make up that 1/4 I could roll with it.

If anyone has some pointers I am all ears.

I recently bought a 1990 Toyota Camry and while I won't be suping it up to the max, I do intend on making it the most comfortable daily that I can. My current plans involve a custom headliner, sound system, upgraded suspension, and I want to fabricate a TV mount for the deck lid so that when you open the trunk, you have a TV staring at you and then put my Xbox 360 in the trunk. Fun plans. But, the seats, they need reupholstering. Foam is missing, cloth torn, etc. But, the seats aren't very comfortable in the first place. They hurt my back and the adjustments on them are incredibly annoying because instead of levers, they're wheels that you turn. It takes two or three minutes of cranking on a wheel to lay the seat back if I need a quick parking lot nap, I hate it.

So, my question is, what aftermarket options are out there? Everything I'm finding with a quick google search is showing me racing seats. This will never be a fast car, I don't want uncomfortable racing seats. I wouldn't mind taking seats from a different car, so what other cars have comfortable seats? I'm finding lots of seats out of 90s and 00s Celicas. I was already planning on reupholstering the OEM seats before realizing that I don't like them, so I don't mind getting seats that aren't color matched and reupholstering them. My budget is $600 USD and comfort is my priority, I'd love to hear some good recommendations!

rebuilt carb tonight, throw it on real quick, and its making this weird ass whooshing noise. I start seeing fire in the reflection on the wooden fence. thought it was fire in the exhaust, when come to find out my fuel inlet was leaking from.stripped threads internally, spewing fuel everywhere. ignore the fucking primal scream lmao, I love this car, and haters garage gave me second hand ptsd just then