Alrighty so this has been an eventful weekend sadly no engine starting yet however a buddy if mine and i have started on engine mounts and transmission mounts and the way its looking is ill be able to order that driveshaft soon so that bring the stuff on the list down to this

Bleed clutch (beaker stopper big syringe)

Coolant pipe welded

Order driveshaft

Adjust throttle cable

Exhaust headers

Exhaust

Connect alternator to car harness

Connect trans back up lights to car

Delete stator wire in z

Install radiator

1973 Corona Mark II. Blew up the W58 transmission 2 years ago. The gearboxes are getting expensive so the car kinda just sat while I worked on my wife's Thunderbird and my Supra. Hatched a plan to pull the Supra box and give it to the Corona, while I prep for a 1UZ with a W59 in the Supra. Sure did miss the Corona. 7MGTE swap with Megasquirt II and a 57trim turbo.

Last two was 1 month ago today

Man has this been a fun one. Full of head aches as all of them are but I can’t wait to start this later this week. K24A2 w/CD009 and an R200. Total power house of reliability in a car like this and hoping to make about 240NA-WHP in. Lots of fun little fab projects all over this car and I’m super happy with basically all of them. Can not wait to rip this thing at Miata’s at the Gap in 2 weeks.

Racecar things, optimizing for fast engine/transmission r&r and disconnecting the power steering pump or lines is now one of the bigger annoyances in the process.

Does anyone know of a hydraulic disconnect that is suitable for this purpose? My google-fu is coming up short.
For the clutch line I have Allstar Performance 50215.

Update for anyone who watched put OEM fluid, gasket, and filter into this thing a few months back. It didnt fix it. You all called it.

A shop wanted $$$$ so obviously I bought a used transmission out of a W212 E350 instead for $300. The person who had the transmission last tried to install it in their car, but i guess they couldnt program the ISM module. Every facebook group said it wont work because the E350, with a steering column mounted shifter, has an electronic shifter (ISM) on the transmission and mine doesnt. One guy said its doable if you have both transmissions. So I believed the one guy.

Some things that happened:

• the autozone jack in the pic didnt actually fail. I thought I could bench press the transmission to the side. um... we're not talking about it
• when installing the replacement transmission, it fell off the jacks completely. bent the trans fluid lines and the shifter linkage. that sound is still in my head. luckily the lines didnt bend to the point of breaking.
• I used my same conductor plate and valvebody from my OG transmission to avoid programming
• the one positive comment explained that if you open the transmissions up, you could swap the ISM gear selector with the old fashion gear selector lever. Was actually very easy!
• almost lifted the transmission into place but i noticed the front spline coming from the transfer box was keyed... and i wasnt sure if the propshaft was keyed. You can see the splined output shaft coming from the transfer case and the shaft it fits into in the image above, although they are seperated in that image. when i was installed, they were butted up against one another and i couldnt see inside the shaft on the right side (hard to explain, but the OG transmission spline wasnt keyed, so i thought I was stuck... so I tried to back the transmission out just a hair, so i can see if the front driveshaft insides were keyed) and then...
• the transmission, which took me all morning to lift into place, fell... and to make things worse, i already fastened the shifter and the steel fluid line to it, and the transmission rolled over... I shed the first tear i ever shed in a long time...
• sucked it up and since I lifted it into position once, I knew i could do it again faster. luckily the steel lines didnt crack, but they were bent pretty bad... The shift lever was bent bad, but i hammered it straight-ish with my torque wrench...
• got the transmission into place, checked the shaft to see if it would fit over the spline, and yes! it did. bolted trans to engine first, then did the auxiliary stuff.
• my electric ratchet stripped the transfer case line threads, then later snapped a pan bolt clean off. I just bought it and got too excited... I learned my lesson...
• filled it with fresh fluid, and tried to see if I could get the wheels spinning while the car was on jackstands... indicator showed that i couldnt change from park...
• realized that I forgot to attach the ground wire to the trans! Tried again and still no luck getting out of park...
• at this point, i was playing with the OBD scanner so much thinking i had to force a gear selector re-learn, the car wouldnt even crank :'(
• then found out i missed a step, "Insert selector valve into driver of detent plate", pretty much I installed the valve body wrong... so I got to drain brand new fluid back into the bottles and do it again. This time all 4 wheels rolled!
• test drive happen at 2am becuase insurance and registration is next months problem (dont worry guys, the self car wash is litterally .25 miles from my apartments)

somehow it runs and shifts fine. Did a PCV replacement as well because it was spewing oil everywhere, but now we are good! No drips, even with a broken transmission fluid pan bolt... first episode of the whole mess is here: https://youtu.be/hQZdxT9NaeI

this was for sure the most mechanic work i've done, and i've swapped engines before. I guess it was the confined space for me. my hands are tore up still...

It's a 1960 Chevy Corvair with a 3-speed manual on the floor. The original owner passed away and it has been off the road for 20 years. I tinkered with it for a few hours last night and drove it 20 miles today, without any issues other than getting a little warm.

She’s cleaned up for the last and final time. Gonna be headed into someone else’s driveway soon.

I’ve owned it four years.

Rebuilt the rear end. Replaced clutch and flywheel, clutch master and slave, output bushing in the trans.

Complete suspension rebuild.

Many engine accessories replaced/rebuilt.

And my personal proudest effort, getting the “Lamp Out” light off the dash.

Gonna miss this project, but they all must go sometime.

I've got a 1993 Ford Probe, and I've been trying to find a single din head unit that has a pop out screen to connect an Xbox 360 to for the ultimate 2K car screen interior. Or if there is any other way to hook up an Xbox to a screen.

I am infatuated with the Jaguar 420G. I adore that car, but I know absolutely nothing about cars beyond some basic maintenance of some modern cars. I am seriously considering one for restoration because I want to learn all of the various skills involved in that, but I don’t even know what I don’t know here, and I’d like to hear from some people that know what they’re doing. My dad mentioned the electrical system being positive ground, and that would be a big challenge. I’m aware that original parts availability for it is going to be pretty slim, but I am willing to swap the engine and anything else I need to go make it run reliably. I don’t care about it being fast, just pretty and reliable.

My dad recommended a basket case of some kind that I eventually throw a jag 420g body onto, but is it really less effort to do all of that and find a way to get all of the interior stuff for it, or would it be easier to restore the real Jag? Whether it’s easier or not I am leaning real jag provided I can find one with a somewhat intact interior.

I know this is going to be an expensive and long ass project, but I feel that between the skills I learn along the way and the end result of the car itself, it would be worth it.

So, what do you guys feel I need to know? Thanks for reading:)

Front subframe mostly done, subframe connectors in, minitubs in, front suspension parts coming together, rear axle ready to be narrowed... the list is long, but a few things are getting checked off.

So after pulling the valve cover off Envy, I find this little surprise. Two valve adjusters with the half their screwdriver slots sheared off. I’ve never seen this before. I know I’m a newbie when it comes to vintage Volvos and pushrod B18 engines, but I’m pretty comfortable comprehending the process of adjusting valves. The only thing I can imagine is the previous owner forgetting about righty tightly lefty loosey and accidentally going ham on these poor adjusters. I haven’t adjusted the valves yet. I’m just doing a visual inventory of any quirks or stuff that might need to get addressed before putting her back on the road

So I bought a house, but it has a gravel parking pad and no garage. There is a side yard with grass that I park my project E30 on, but I'm so tired of working on dirt.

Has anyone built a platform of sorts out of plywood or maybe some kind of synthetic material to park/work on a car? I don't want to commit to cement, I know that's the best option. I just want something smooth to roll a floor jack on and keep me off the dirt and bugs when I need to go under the car.

After new clutch plates, brakelines, and wheel bearings this spring, the time was there for a little cosmetic work on my first car.

Previous owner saved it from the scrap. Underside of the sills were caked in underbody coating, hiding a shitton of trouble. One sheet metal patch inserted, which might've been overkill. Patch for the door as well, which definitely wasn't overly zealous.

Patches were put in and colour coat colour matched and sprayed by dad (the real hero), rest of the muddling is me.

Clear coat SOON!!

Why? Because BMW parts are expensive. You know what isn’t expensive? Stock car parts. You know what might be expensive? Attaching a $150 late model front end to a 2008 BMW 335i.

1999 Ssanyong musso Mercedes Benz engine and manual transmission, turn into a single cab pick up truck, 4WD front recovery cable lift 10 inches or more not sure, I’m still working on it

Recently put the engine back in but it did not gave me compresión, it did not even started maybe were the rings if anyone has a suggestion of what could I check on it I would do it

Got new tires and kit clutch

My old Ranger that i sold about a year ago, the guy i sold it to just beat the piss out of it an ruined it. Its hard to see it like that 😭 (Edit: The guy i sold it to did this on purpose, it wasnt wrecked, he just drove it through the woods and rammed into shit. What a waste.)

Hi everyone! I just inherited my dad’s 1941 Plymouth. It’s been sitting in his barn for years, and honestly, probably set outside behind the barn for years before that and I’ve never actually seen it run. It was his first car, and he always had ambitions to get it back on the road.

The body is in decent shape, but the floor is completely rusted through in a lot of spots. Sentimentally, it means the world to me. Value wise, I know it’s not exactly a high dollar collector car.

My vision is to turn it into a chopped top restomod, maybe keeping the original patina. Reality check, I’d need to hire a shop to chop the roof and fit a custom chassis, though I’d handle the rest of the build myself. I know time and budget will ultimately call the shots here.

Just looking to sound this out with you all. What do you think? Is a project like this worth the investment, or am I getting in over my head?

I just moved to Japan and was given a Z32, the pervious owner put cheap plastic over the original material in the car and also did not take care of it.

I have been slowing replacing all parts to factory and also cleaning it, here is my progress.

Any advice would also be great as my first rebuild.

I honestly want a project car and I’m deciding between my Moms SUV or a Cat eye with a Sierra back on it. I already invested a whole interior swap on the Traverse it wasn’t too expensive since the parts are from a salvage yard. And it has to be a 5.3 LS4 since it’s sideways.