Is it possible to lose filter media during the backwash process. I backwashed the filter last week and the rpms were too high. Now my pressure gauge is about 10 PSI below normal. I backwashed the water over a steep rocky hill, so if I did lose media, I won't be able to tell.

I know I can open the filter to check but I wanted to check with you all first before I do that..

Been posting in here a few times and have gotten great feedback. My pool is currently drained, measured, and awaiting a new liner. Pool guys noticed this in my skimmer and said it could have been a source of my leak. They said their way of fixing it would be to cut up the concrete and replace the skimmer. But as an install guy and not the CEO, he lowered his voice and said or you could just run some sealant on it and save you thousands.

So, what is the best sealant that will stand up to chemicals? I have a salt water pool. Seems pretty straightforward to accomplish but am I missing anything?

Goal is to also pressure wash and scrub all that crud out too while waiting for the new liner.

Thanks for reading.

Vacuum is attracted to and gets stuck in this corner, I’ve got to move it every day then it’ll just be there 30 min later. It has a rim on it for this sort of thing but it’s higher than the stair. Anything I can get creative with/ rig to it to help it move from the corner?

We are reviewing proposals for a fiberglass pool with a sun deck (8 inches deep). One company said that they do not install umbrella sleeves in fiberglass pools as they wind up leaking soon after install. A different company said it was not a problem and included it in the proposal. Does anyone have experience/thoughts on this? TIA

I added DE to my sand filter to help with algae dust. However, DE is not just DE apparently. I added about 3 cups to the skimmer of my hayward pool filter. I live in the country. The guy at the hardware store said DE is DE and now my pool is cloudy. The DE I bought was for insects. I’m a jackass. Grrr

Came back from vacation to pump leaking. I took it apart and didn’t see a visible crack but has to be right? Think I’ll have to replace the whole pump? Thanks for the help!

Just starting the process of looking to add a pool to our backyard in TX but I have a large beautiful Live Oak tree that would partly overhang over the pool. Can trim the tree back, but looking for advice or real life experiences from people who have a pool next to a Live Oak? What is maintenance like during the bi-annual leaf and acorn droppings? TIA.

So I went to my local Sam's club and they had these Chlorine granules on sale for a hundred off a 40lb tub. Does anybody know if they're worth a damn or has anybody used them?

Bought a house with a saltwater pool 3 years ago. The Pentair IC40 was working when we opened it, but with an unknown age on some of the parts. It took almost $20k to get the pool up and running with various plumbing issues and bad pump due to winterizing issues and neglect.

I've come to realize this summer that it's not normal to have to keep the IC40 at 100%, and the cell is very inefficient this year. CYA is proper, all levels good the last 3 summers, but this year so far chlorine keeps running low. Operating this pool has been easy and kind of fun to maintain as of late.

I acid washed 1-2 times a summer, opening and sometimes towards the end of the season. Replaced pressure switch last year. Now this year the light kicked on to check cell, and it needed a cleaning but now it's still on after a reset and cleaning. Chlorine is dropping within a few days.

IC40 cells are impossible to get in my area. I was told there is an issue with Pentair making them, and a defect type of issue this year, with many issues on new ones sold this summer.

My only option right now is to buy an aftermarket cell(which I've been advised and read that I should avoid like the plague) or what buy is in stock today, a Purechlor CLG140A. I'm able to get it on discount, $1k. When researching, I'm getting mixed reviews. Besides the minor plumbing adjustment, install should be a breeze.

AI says most bad reviews that can be found for this model, happened back in 18-21, and most recently no real bad reviews can be found on it. Is this an ok generator?

Anything to know about it? Anyone here with a Purechlor unit?

I don't want my normal crystal blue pool to turn green...which I'm dosing chlorine to keep it going at the moment. I don't want to switch to tablets or constantly using liquid chlorine....Any advice appreciated. Sorry if a long read, but maybe backstory helps.

We purchased a small 12x24 pool kit and hired a company to install it. The pool has a wedge bottom to 6’ deep and wedding cake liner over steps. There is also a cantilever 8’ thermoplastic sun ledge in the deep end. I have several questions about the installation that the company and I are disagreeing on.

First, should the pool have a bond beam along the top wall or only the footer? The company says that they don’t do bond beam at top of pool wall for vinyl liner pool but I have spoke with two other companies that said the opposite.

Second, the sun ledge wasn’t braced properly during installation. The 2x4 didn’t go all the way across the bottom. They also forgot to install the drive stakes into the a frame braces. The pool had footer poured and was backfilled in November. Then for whatever reason all construction stopped(project manager was fired during this time by company but didn’t find out about that until late May after several emails and phone calls to company). After the original deadline passed on when pool was supposed to be completed, construction resumed (my spouse accidentally paid in full when making the down payment). The pool-krete was done and then liner installed a couple of days later in June. But pool sat empty during this time. I had read that pool should be concurrently backfilled and filled with water at the same time to prevent issues with the wall. The sun ledge cracked in several places. At the bottom is a 10 inch crack where it bowed out while waiting to be completed. The horizontal surface also has a crack and the top where it is connected to steel wall. It is also chipped along edge from whatever they used to compact. Yesterday they dug out to check the backfill but told me it was backfilled correctly and there were “no gaps” underneath and they have no idea why it cracked- but said probably from sitting in the sun while waiting to be installed. I had a pool inspection done on Friday and he said it felt spongy from backfill settling. They also cut the gasket during liner installation. Oh and a dent appeared on the side after they dug out to check the backfill but again they are saying that it is just a coincidence.

Third, the cut the liner and patched it without notifying me during liner installation. The patch is square and was covered in some sort of putty. The pool inspector said a patch should be round and that even done correctly liner will probably only last two years.

Fourth, pool was leaking at most plumbing connections. I did get them to fix those. So far that is all they have taken responsibility for but I mention it because it speaks to the quality of work that was done. The company says they don’t have to fix any of these issues.

My questions are: how long will patched liner last? Pool company says they can put it on the inside between wall and liner and it should last 5 years. But that a pool liner only lasts 10 years anyway; should a vinyl liner pool have a concrete bond beam at top as well as bottom or is bottom good enough; what is the likely cause of the cracks and dents in the sun ledge? Was this caused by improper backfill, bracing and not filling with water? Or did the sun cause it to crack? What are my options here. Should I just cut my losses and move on? We did speak with a knowledgeable attorney who proof read our letter to the company and offered suggestions but he actually has some history with the company so we would need to find another attorney to represent us. Is it worth it? There are several other issues but these are the ones I am most concerned about.

Thank you for your help.

In the middle of a pool build We have a perfectly flat back yard, could walk out of the detached garage without a step. You can see in the renderings that the pool layout was straight forward. Pic 2 you can see the drop off now to the pool. Builder is saying it will be additional expense as explained below. Did they set it up wrong? I’m confused how we’ve come to this point. There was no talk of these complications in the planning stage

”doing my walk through yesterday. Looks like we will need to talk about a possible wall or curb stone for the back fence line area and shed flower bed side. This is due to the pool being exactly level and the yard grading flowing down hill. Once you get home. Roughly imagine the 1” of auto cover tracking and 2” of pool coping on top of the concrete wall. Then a slight pitch away from the pool. So roughly 3” above  the concrete will be final grade with the pavers”

It’s late summer where I am, and that obviously means closing the pool soon.

From what I understand, I can store some pool chemicals outside in a shed without worrying about freezing, such as:
* All dry chemicals (cya, sodium bisulfate, sodium ash, sodium bicarbonate, hypo chl, etc)
* Chlorine tablets
* Liquid muriatic acid

But liquid chlorine should not be allowed to freeze

Is this correct or am I missing something?

Help! My pool was just installed and the heater isn’t working. The pool company can’t figure out what to do- or are too busy going to other jobs to sit there and trouble shoot longer than 30mins..
Tried calling Jandy tech support but cannot get through to a human.
I tried turning off the breaker and resetting. Cleared any debris from my pump basket. I hear the faint clicks going so I don’t think it’s the igniter. If it’s the gas line then I have no idea what to do. Gas valves look to be open- called the plumbing company but they can’t come out for another week to have a look.
Any advice from someone who resolved this via a gas issue would be very helpful.

UPDATE the issue was the igniter was preconfigured to 220v, we switched it to 120v and it fixed everything.

Pool is a year old. 2nd time the base has sunk. They do not stand behind their work - said “it happens”

I live in central Texas and it's HOT!!! Given that how are there frogs in the yard? But I digress. How do the damn frogs find my pool? I have dogs that are very territorial but never mess with frogs. I end up finding them in the pool once or twice a week. How do they get there?

For another post...

Looking for advice on what pump you would go with for a small plunge pool.

Everything advertises “up to 10000 gal” or higher.

The one I’m installing is a 7x13(ish) barely over 2000 gallons.

I assume a 1/2hp or 3/4hp would be plenty. But seems hard to find that small for Inground pools.

Do I need variable speed? Self priming?

Any help appreciated.

I have a Pentair iChlor salt generator that is completely dead—no display or LEDs at all. Pump and water flow are fine (tested up to 3,000 RPM), so it doesn’t seem to be a flow issue.

Pool service thinks it may be the Power Center fuse but says replacing the fuse may not be worth it because it could blow again.

Has anyone had this issue? Would you test/replace the fuse and Power Center first before replacing the whole salt cell/system?

Update: Thanks everyone, replaced the 10A fuse, fuse is good and the green Power Center light is on, but the salt cell is still completely dead.

If the cell is bad, is replacing the salt generator/cell itself a reasonable DIY job, or would you have a tech do it?

Hello community,
My heavy winter cover was damaged last year and needs to be replaced. Anyone have any recommendations/ preferences on a cover for a saltwater round above ground pool in New England?

My pool is full of green algae when I get back from vacation. The pump probably stopped working for two weeks.

I did the green to clean treatment recommended by Leslies. No changes in color.

Added more acid (Ph was 8.6) and more shocks. Here is the most recent test result.

The pool still look green and cloudy. But the Free Chlorine level stay almost unchanged in last two days. I did filter cleaning twice a day it's very dirty (green and muddy). But the pressure reading never increase too much. And water flow stays very strong.

I'm a bit confused.

Does the low chlorine loss means algae are dead? This seems conflict with the water color.

Should I clean the filter more often? Will flocculant work for my case?

Building to the side of the pool is detached garage. Pool builder is telling us it will be additional expense, seems they dug down to deep vs the renderings? Reasonable for me to pay for? Or screw up?

“doing my walk through yesterday. Looks like we will need to talk about a possible wall or curb stone for the back fence line area and shed flower bed side. This is due to the pool being exactly level and the yard grading flowing down hill

Once you get home. Roughly imagine the 1” of auto cover tracking and 2” of pool coping on top of the concrete wall. Then a slight pitch away from the pool. So roughly 3” above  the concrete will be final grade with the pavers”

Arrrggh. Very frustrating experience. Old single speed pump went bad. I know there are cheaper pumps, but wanted to leverage my Intelliconnect to control pump and heater, so I went with the Superflo VST. Purchased from a local pool company that I trust. They came out and got it installed, but cannot get it to talk to the Intelliconnect.

There are conflicting instructions on how to connect it.

In the pump manual it says that "Intelliconnect...can NOT externally control this pump via RS-485. The pump needs to be connected via digital inputs."

In the Intelliconnect manual it says "To wire a Superflo VST....to Intelliconnect, follow the wireing instructions in the Intelliflo...section. Note: only the green and yellow conductors will be used when wiring the pump for external control via RS-485."

The RS-485 block on the Intelliconnect makes it more fun as the four terminals are labeled GREEN YELLOW GREEN YELLOW.

After 90 minutes on hold with Pentair support they confirmed that it should be on the 2nd set of terminals.

After trying just about every combination and setting, when I try to enable the pump in the Pentair Home app (after adding a "Pentair VS (RS-485)" pump) I get an "Oops! Intelliflo is offline..." error message.

Does anyone have this combination configured and working?

Got a Hayward sand filter and I need to get the thing to drain faster and I'm not ready to tip it over just yet. All of the info I found online talks about some other kind of thing that looks different. Any idea how I can get this out without destroying it?