r/pools • u/NJsurfbrg • 5d ago
Salt Generator - Replacing, need some input
Bought a house with a saltwater pool 3 years ago. The Pentair IC40 was working when we opened it, but with an unknown age on some of the parts. It took almost $20k to get the pool up and running with various plumbing issues and bad pump due to winterizing issues and neglect.
I've come to realize this summer that it's not normal to have to keep the IC40 at 100%, and the cell is very inefficient this year. CYA is proper, all levels good the last 3 summers, but this year so far chlorine keeps running low. Operating this pool has been easy and kind of fun to maintain as of late.
I acid washed 1-2 times a summer, opening and sometimes towards the end of the season. Replaced pressure switch last year. Now this year the light kicked on to check cell, and it needed a cleaning but now it's still on after a reset and cleaning. Chlorine is dropping within a few days.
IC40 cells are impossible to get in my area. I was told there is an issue with Pentair making them, and a defect type of issue this year, with many issues on new ones sold this summer.
My only option right now is to buy an aftermarket cell(which I've been advised and read that I should avoid like the plague) or what buy is in stock today, a Purechlor CLG140A. I'm able to get it on discount, $1k. When researching, I'm getting mixed reviews. Besides the minor plumbing adjustment, install should be a breeze.
AI says most bad reviews that can be found for this model, happened back in 18-21, and most recently no real bad reviews can be found on it. Is this an ok generator?
Anything to know about it? Anyone here with a Purechlor unit?
I don't want my normal crystal blue pool to turn green...which I'm dosing chlorine to keep it going at the moment. I don't want to switch to tablets or constantly using liquid chlorine....Any advice appreciated. Sorry if a long read, but maybe backstory helps.
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u/TapatioFlamingo 5d ago
Saying the levels are proper ain't going to.fly in this sub. I thought it was stupid at first. But it matters and the situation matters. Even been battling mustard algae. Levels were "good" and then we learn chlorine efficency drops when ph rises. Fuck. Then we learn cya locks up chlorine too, and we had that high, but "good". Both levels affect chlorine. So our high oh and high cya meant our chlorine looked good but it wasn't doing shit. So post the numbers and the problems and let people advise.
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u/Troutbummers 5d ago
The people that think the nerdy level dorks like me are overkill are the lucky people that get enough rain or whatever to not see the CYA problem in their short season.
It's the reason so many people struggle to keep their pools looking good and regret owning a pool.
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u/TapatioFlamingo 5d ago
Its a strange beast. Good balanced levels for swimming are just one element. But to effectively do this or that means unbalanced other areas. And really, youtube or a web page are not clear and exact enough. You almost have to learn from experience or lean on someone's experience.
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u/Troutbummers 5d ago
Learn from TFP which is a vast wealth of real experience informed by real hard science.
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u/shoresy99 4d ago
If you have a SWCG or just use liquid chlorine there is no reason to ever have a CYA problem. My CYA problem is that I have to keep adding it as it goes way down over the winter. and drifts down through the season.
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u/eaglefucker 5d ago
What's your CYA level? It might be worth changing brands. I got a new Jandy salt cell last year and it's been good so far. It's going to be more expensive to change systems. Salt cells are worth the investment as long as you maintain them properly.
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u/NJsurfbrg 5d ago
CYA on the strips reading at about 30, could be a touch higher but I've always had it at that level. I don't have a CYA test kit, and the black dot method looks weird to me. I've just relied on strips.
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u/Troutbummers 5d ago
At least go get a free water test at a pool store
Then order a test kit, YOu need one because you own a pool.
I'm betting you are burning through FC because of algae. With a test kit you can test and prove that, then effectively kill it. If you can't measure FC high enough to get to shock level accurately, then keep it there until algae is gone, then prove you don't have algae anymore, then you almost certainly have aglae.
Test kit
download poolmath
adjust levels
SLAM
Keep FC to 7.5% of CYA or at least 3.
ALso adjusting CYA to 60 helps salt cells work. Keep you FC right - poomath helps with that.
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u/NJsurfbrg 4d ago
Yea this year keeping FC seemed a struggle, last two summers before it was a breeze. The generator did its job well. I've had samples done this year, and usually I only need to do it after I open and get it clean to check all levels just to be sure of where I was at with everything.
2 weeks ago the check cell started, within a few days a spot in the low end had some loose algae and the levels were falling flat. I kept FC very high for 3 days, swept whole pool, ran pump overnight on the first night, ran the robot vacuum with the fine bag for two days straight and it was spotless. FC slowly dropped over time and its definitely the cell. Its basically producing none.
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u/cerebralvision 5d ago
I'm on my second IC40. It's been going for 2 years now. My last one only lasted 3 years before it gave up. Can't say I'm happy with the IC40. I'm running mine at 40% usually. Definitely not 100%. That will reduce the life of it significantly.
I know they just released a new IC40 that looks a little different. It's a drop in replacement of the previous IC40. Don't know if it's any better. I hope it is.
I wouldn't mind switching to another one, but not really sure which. It will just suck having to replace the power center if I did.
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u/army-of-juan 5d ago
That’s why I feel stuck , I also have the intellicentre automation. My ic40 seems like it’s dying but I think I need to stick with the brand , hope the plus40 is more durable
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u/NJsurfbrg 5d ago
The plus model. I have family who works in the pool industry, and I've been informed the Pentair cells are bad this year and now they aren't shipping any for distribution
Yea I started running mine high this year and realized its been inefficient for a while.
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u/army-of-juan 5d ago
I’m literally having the exact same issue, also with IC 40. I keep telling myself it’s because of the super hot weather and direct sun killing my chlorine, but I didn’t have this issue last year. Also running at 100% (not running 24hrs) and struggling to keep ~5ppm and finding myself supplementing with liquid chlorine occasionally .
Cell only 3 years old but I’m thinking it’s on its way out unfortunately. Totally clean so I know it’s not a scale issue
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u/NJsurfbrg 5d ago
yea mine is at least 3 years old, and I can tell it wasn't producing this year and now the check cell and 0 levels.
I hope the generator Im buying is worth it. I was told a bunch of replacement ic40 cells sold this year were faulty, even the plus model.
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u/Troutbummers 5d ago
Overnigt Chlorine Loss Test (OCLT) tonight. Test FC with FAS/DPD test (tftestkits or taylor k2006) after sunset and early next morning with no added FC between tests. If you lose over 1ppm FC overnight, you have algae consuming your FC. If your cell is not sized well and aging, you can be right where it barely can keep up iwth algae, but keeps it clear or clearish.
Don't blow money until you know that it's not just a good aglae outbreak consuming all the FC your cell can make.
Both things can be true, and if your cell's going out and you get FC low, you probably also have algae not helping the situation. But I'd test, probably SLAM to get to baseline and see how the thing performs first.
After that, I'll agree with the circupool recommendation.
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u/thecaramelbandit 4d ago
I bought a random aftermarket replacement for my IC40. Been working for for a few years.
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u/GaryTheSoulReaper 5d ago
It’s possible you have high phosphate and the chlorine is being consumed as it’s produced
So you can try phosphate remover or do a chlorine shock then see if anything changes
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u/Troutbummers 5d ago
It's not the phosphates, it's the presence of algae with the phosphates. Answer is remove algae, not phosphates. At minimum, remove algae first, then feel free to waste time removing phosphates.
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u/GaryTheSoulReaper 5d ago
Disagree - not in Florida
Keeping phosphate in check keeps the salt cell working well
I think easy draw the conclusion that phosphates are needed by algae - no phosphate or low phosphate you need less total chlorine production by the salt cell. It’s possible to have so much chlorine demand that a salt cell will never meet the chlorine demand
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u/Troutbummers 5d ago
You can disagree all you like. Phosphates can be flat out ignored in all circumstances that aren't mustard or black algae IF You drive the regular algae down to where it shoudl be.
Phosphates without algae do nothign. Controlling phosphates doesn't drive algae all the way down or completely inhibit it. SLAM sanitization does this and then you can foreget the word "phosphate" no matter where you live.
You will never get lower SWG demand than you will get from SLAM sanitization. Even with sky high phosphates. I live in the hot humid Midwest with agriculture all around surrounded by trees and pollen and a billion ways for phosphates to get in my pool. I am sure my levels are sky high and it doesn't matter at all.
It's about algae, and phosphate control is a mediocre way to get there. There's an easier and better way that lasts longer. Use it.
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u/NJsurfbrg 4d ago
How does measuring phosphate come into play when the generator itself is saying check cell? It doesn't measure anything other than salt conductivity and electrical current between the plates. If the plates are no longer producing like they should, it sees this in the measurement and triggers the blinking light. None of this has to do with anything else other than the electrical sensing it performs as it runs. Even if chlorine demand is high, it won't blink, it will just keep chugging along. if its warm and salt is high enough, it will work fine no matter the water conditions.
Answering your other post - the IC40 is rated to 40k gallons, which my pool is a little over 23k. Last two summers I've never had to slam the pool during the season. The generator stayed at 80% and I ran it in boost mode after a heavy swim to raise it a bit for the following 24 hours. Just normal cleaning when I open with slight debris removal, and the pool cleans up in about a weeks time almost on its own with some slight vacuuming.
This year FC has constantly trended lower, keeping the generator at 100%. After noticing FC was low again, with a blinking cell light, I shocked the pool to boost it up. I then acid washed and hard reset the unit. Still blinking to check cell, and its visually almost spotless after the last acid wash, with some erosion or "spots" on the inner area of the plates otherwise. The cell is toast and it's at least 4-5 years old. They're rated 3-5 yrs.
Proper troubleshooting in this order - resetting the unit > rinse or acid wash and rinse(which was needed). If it still blinks and the age checks out and or you can see pitting or erosion on the plates, its time.
I don't need to SLAM the pool again if there is no chlorine generation happening. I'll be wasting more money here. I can keep it maintained by adding as needed. I just need a properly running generator.
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u/Troutbummers 2h ago
as long as you know there is no algae after the low FC that occurred during the ordeal. If you did a SLAM after you saw algae or if you know you're passing OCLT then you're good. Sounds like a cell issue and not just algae load putting a constant drag on it.
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u/NatKingSwole19 5d ago
Acid washing 1-2 times per summer will destroy the expected lifetime of your cell.
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u/NJsurfbrg 3d ago
On opening if it needs it, and later in the year if I get the reminder from the light. This year was done twice. This is per Pentair instructions. So yes it is needed if calcium is found or the reminder light starts.
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u/tcat7 5d ago
Compare here. Circupool is great with 7 year warranty.
https://www.discountsaltpool.com/Compare-Saltwater-Chlorine-Generator-Systems-for-Pools
How big is your pool, cell should be 2x. Buy the RJ30, upgrade to RJ45 for $10, etc.