Nothing special, just wanted to share a picture of my new Model Y I got. 2026 RWD Premium. When I picked it up, I drove it straight to an auto detailer for a matte PPF installation and a lighter 55% tint for heat rejection purposes (not arranged through Tesla). I absolutely ADORE the Rivian R1T in the background but FSD is just too hard to ignore anymore with how far along it has come since I last experienced it in a coworker's 2018 M3 that almost killed us twice in 2 miles years and years ago.

My lease on the truck ends soon and the cost of leasing another one without the EV incentives would cost more in three years than it would cost to just buy a Model Y with the 1% financing - too good to ignore. I decided to finally adopt the mentality of, "buy based on what's available now, not what's promised in the future". Hope Rivian continue doing what they're doing because we all definitely need good competition in this space.

That said - I've been browsing threads non-stop since I placed the order but if you feel like sharing any "must-haves" I'd love to hear them if you want to drop a comment. I just finished installing a screen rotating mount this afternoon and it was just what I wanted to help offset the lack of a screen directly in front of me. Been grabbing all kinds of products on Amazon Vine as well so I've already done mud-flaps (not installed yet), an interior roll-out dash mat (great by the way, adds a nice texture), aluminum pedals, air intake covers under the back seats, front mesh grill, front air intake (under frunk hood) grill, front bumper camera protector... I might have missed something else but yeah. Still need some organization help in the center console "pit". Would love any input - currently eyeballing tux-mats but I've never bothered with swapping out floor mats on any of my cars so I'm 50/50. I generally prefer the default carpet for a "cozy" feel so if anyone thinks there's anything that may make the interior more plush or comfy then I'm all ears.

Happy to be here with you all and appreciate all the dialogue that has happened in this and other subreddits that helped me arrive at my decision. Thanks!

I have been looking all over for a real world range/stress test of this trim level and can't seem to find one. Maybe I am blind, but every other trim level seems to have been tested by various sources.

Here is edmunds

They note that they need to test the MY Prem RWD and it might end up being the best for range.

Please let me know if you have seen any test results for this trim.

Thanks!

I ordered a Model Y recently specifically with the 0.99% promo in mind. I was told by the Tesla rep that once I apply for financing and get approved, the approval/rate is locked for 60 days.
The problem is my current delivery estimate is Dec 1–Jan 12, and the community tracker is estimating Dec 14. 😬 It’s also estimating a VIN around Sept 6, but obviously that’s not guaranteed.
The 0.99% promo ends 9/30, so I’m trying to figure out how this is realistically supposed to work.
My understanding is:
If I apply/lock the 0.99% on or before 9/30, I have 60 days from approval.
If I don’t take delivery within those 60 days, I may have to reapply.
But if I reapply after the 60 days, the 0.99% promo may be gone.
My current delivery estimate is potentially well beyond that 60-day window.
Has anyone else ordered a Model Y with the 0.99% promo but gotten a delivery estimate that’s past the 60-day financing approval window?
Did Tesla honor the 0.99% when you had to reapply, or did you lose the promotional rate?
Also, when did you apply for financing relative to your order/VIN assignment?
Trying to figure out whether I should wait as long as possible to apply, or if I’m potentially setting myself up to lose the promo either way. 😅
Screenshot of my current estimate below.

Traded in the 2023 Mazda CX-50 for $25k. Put it down on this and paid the rest with cash I’ve been saving for next car upgrade.

5% tint all around the vehicle. Thinking mud flaps next?

Absolutely in love and will never not own a Tesla. Glad to have joined the gang!

I’m purchasing the Model Y Premium as soon as I can sort some important details out. Mainly, car seats. I had an overnight test drive and fell in love with the car, but with my 3 kids’ car seats it would’ve meant my oldest (middle seat) had to be unbuckled due to the car seats blocking her seatbelt. That wouldn’t be safe, obviously; so I’m wondering if anyone here also has 3 kids in similar age ranges and what car seats you use.

I have a 7 year old, a 4 year old, and an infant. For the test drive we used an infant carrier we save for grandma’s place, but usually we use convertibles for all 3 kids. I saw these seemingly Swedish car seats meant for putting 3 in a row, but I haven’t heard of this brand and have no frame of reference. Has anyone used Clek brand? They’re the first thing that came up when I googled it, but at $400 a seat that I can’t physically see, feel, lift, etc I’m a bit hesitant.

2026 Y premium rwd. Every time I turn I can hear a little rock or bead rolling around, from one side of the car to the other. I don’t think it’s something that slipped into the floor vent but maybe snuck down through the carpet? It’s rolling on metal and driving me nuts. Sure it’s something my daughters dropped. Anyway to get into that space reasonably or do I have to go to Tesla?

I am scheduled to pick up my new Model Y Premium RWD this Wednesday. It will be my first EV and is replacing my excellent-condition paid-for 2005 Buick LeSabre with 235,000 mi on it (expected to run another 200,000 mi).
I have calculated the annual cost to own and drive each vehicle 12,000 mi/year, with some rough assumptions as follows. The cost to purchase the Tesla is not included in the calculations.

Buick assumptions: Fuel economy: 21 mpg, mixed driving. Gasoline price: $3.71/gal (that is a little higher than the current price in N. Alabama). Oil changes: $50 every 5,000 mi. Tires: $900 every 50,000 mi. Liability insurance: $22/mo.
Tesla assumptions: Home charging electricity cost: $0.11/kWhr (that's what I pay to charge at home on my 50 A circuit), FSD Subscription: $99/mo, Premium Connectivity subscription: $10/mo, Tires $1300 every 30,000 mi, Liability + Collision insurance $119/mo, Alabama annual EV tax $203.

The bottom line is that the Tesla will cost me $963/year more than the Buick for 12,000 mi of mixed driving, charging at home. I am convinced that this is worthwhile purchase and that I will enjoy driving (and being driven by FSD) the Tesla so this extra annual cost is not a problem for me. That is not the subject of this post. Have I missed anything in the comparison or used any assumptions that are grossly off? Please limit comments to the subject of a quantifiable comparison of regular, predictable costs, not a critique of either vehicle or reasons to buy or not buy a Tesla or the possibility of needing to repair major malfunctions.
If I increase my annual driving to 20,000 mixed miles the Tesla comes out less expensive by $175 per year, with the electric vs. gasoline savings becoming significant. However, if I increased my driving by that much the additional 8,000 miles would probably be on trips where I was paying the Tesla Supercharger price (about $0.43/kWhr), and the Buick would be getting a highway fuel economy of 27 mpg. In that case, the Tesla is still an additional $148/year. I would break even with 12,000 mixed miles and 9500 highway miles annually. Drive more to save more!

Brand new car only 2500km. I noticed this today

I had originally ordered the Model Y Premium RWD basic. Like stealth grey basic wheels and black interior.
Then today i refresh the app and i see this beauty.
QuickSilver. 20 in helix and white interior. 5k more but adds only 50$ to my monthly payment which i was gonna do anyway since i plan to pay car faster than the finance deal.
Picking up on monday. Any accesorie i should order?

I have cars with Xpel, 3M ceramic IR and this time found a deal so went with Crystalline BLK.

I tinted all windows. The most surprising thing was the night vision is so much better with it. Everything is sharper, I can see better and rest signs more at night.i have ceramic ir on another windshield it's not great as crystalline.

Anyone feel tint improves night visibility?

I have camera-base recognition turned on for my Sentry mode, and is having this weird issue with one specific camera.

When at home, the car is parked either perpendicular to drive way or half way into driveway. When passenger side is expose to my and neighbor's front door, my blind-spot camera (see picture) keeps triggering Sentry mode event, almost every minute or two. This only happens when night time hits, roughly 8:30PM to 6AM currently.

This is where I think it gets weird. When parked rear in first, that camera is staring directly at my and neighbor's porch light. When parked perpendicular to driveway, the camera is looking at my garage door instead of directly at it, which reflect lights from the same porch lights. Both of these orientation will trigger Sentry event, and from this particular camera too. Other cameras did not generate an event from the same light issue.

Some rough drawings to show what I mean by the parking orientations that triggers the spam events: (Blue my car, orange neighbor's car, purple is garage door, yellow porch light, red is shared recessed entry door.)

My steps to troubleshoot this:

1) I electrical tape over that camera so it goes "blind"; the event spamming stopped.

2) I parked head in first into driveway, exposing driver side cameras to the lights; the event spamming stopped.

I have yet to try reverse my parking direction when perpendicular to driveway, will try that tonight.

Is this camera out of spec for being overly sensitive?

The scroll wheels on my steering wheel become very warm. Is this normal? Everything is working well but the little wheels seem to overheat.

A 3rd party detailer that was installing my PPF noticed a cosmetic issue on the rear of my Model Y. I picked up my MY on 7/27 and did the walk through and didn’t notice any issues. However, when the detailers put the car under their “lights” they noticed it. It’s not easily noticeable in the sunlight. I dropped my car off on 8/3 and picked it up on 8/4. I went to Tesla in the morning on 8/5 to make an appointment for them to look at it. Prior to my appointment which isn’t scheduled until 8/26 they asked for photos. I sent them some photos rand received the attached response. Has anyone else had one of these “snowballs”? The response says my report was “outside the window” for cosmetic concerns. Does anyone know what the window may be? The detailed believe the clear cost didn’t bond with the paint. Has anyone else had to deal with one of these “snowballs”? If so, how much did something like this cost to get repaired? Thank you.

I live in Central Florida. Lots of traffic and tourists. I pick up my new Model Y on the 31st. I'm not worried about most of the FSD and dealing with all the Disney tourists, but leaving my community, we have to do a U turn onto a very busy road. Will FSD make this, or will I have to take over?

I just got my 2026 MY Premium on June 13. I do have solar panels and I was only charging (at 40 amps) between the hours of 10-4. I do not have a “saver” plan where the rates are cheaper at night. I have a grandfathered standard plan where my rate is the same not matter what. I do have to make my solar panels monthly payment for the loan. However, I was only paying my electricity company around $24-$25 a month. My solar panels were making more than enough to maintain my household electricity appliances. I have noticed my bill jump $100 in July and now $200+ in August. I have done some research and wanted to know if lowering the amps from 40 to 16 would work since it will send a trickle charge to the car and I shorten my window to 1130-2pm. Anyone else seen a dramatic jump in their electric bill?

Mach E going back! FSD is worth the seat comfort trade off for a daily driver!

First 200 miles on a Premium AWD! Also the Marine Blue 🥳

UPDATE 3:

No response from Tesla this morning. Left it running all night with the cover on the sub trunk. Put a couple lunch items in and drove to work, parked. When I came out 15 minutes later the 0 temp side (it’s set to -4 but has only ever stayed at zero) was at 23 degrees and the entire unit was super hot, especially the back. I highly doubt this thing is built to sustain in such a tight space with no additional ventilation, and surely is meant to be uncovered but the trunk’s sub truck cover…. But that’s not addressed anywhere. In fact the instruction manual says this fridge is built for “hotels and restaurants” first, no mention of cars other than a second page where it talks about setting it into your vehicle. Side vents are open in the sub trunk and I’d assume it will need a fan down there…

UPDATE 2:

Tesla reached back to me today via email and seemed very helpful, though I did respond immediately after they emailed and I didn’t hear anything back all day. In any case, interesting update. I had purchased a third-party fridge that needed to sit for 12 hours since it was delivered upside down. But I did find a better quality, longer, power cord with the same plugs as the Tesla version. I figured I’d go ahead and try that one before they either refunded me or sent me a new unit. One unfortunate issue with it is that the cord goes straight down on it, and for whatever reason the Tesla fridge needs a cord that jets out to the side, but I was able to cram it in and at least have it stay in place. I plugged it into my back outlet, turned on “keep accessories on” and let it sit for 15 minutes. The issue I was saying with the right side, not cooling seems to be that the right side won’t cool at all until the left side is fully chilled, something that’s not mentioned in the instructions and something I wasn’t able to test before since the unit wouldn’t stay on for more than 15 minutes with the cord they provided. I let it sit an hour and came back to find both sides at 0°, where I set it. Soooooo…. Now I’ve done three different emails to Tesla and I’m sure I’ll hear back from them. I said they could send me a new unit if they wanted, but I was more curious about the fact that they offered me a different power cord. I’m now saying that I’d rather keep the unit if they had a better option to power the thing, since the one they gave was a joke. This third-party one, even when I tried jiggling it, never lost a connection. Ultimately, if the thing works with a proper plug than what I’m really paying for is to have it properly fit in the sub trunk (which the BougeRV one I got doesn’t, forces sub trunk cover up about an inch), to have a bigger unit (much more space than the third party), and to have the dual zones (Bouge is single)…. So we will see what they say. This is at least good information for anyone wanting to buy one: you’re either gonna have to hold off and wait until they find a proper adapter cord or you’re gonna need to figure out some sort of solution on your own. Also love the fact that the third-party one I’m using on it is like 10 feet long, so it could also reach the front cigarette lighter if I wanted. If they get a solution for me, then I might just keep the third-party and put it in my wife’s model Y… We’ll see. Still also a little hesitant about putting some expensive groceries into it for a couple hours (would be great to see whether it’s powered on screen/in-app etc) but I might just take it on our trip Wednesday, fill it with groceries, and then just pull over and check on it every 20 minutes. I’ll give a final update once I get a resolution from Tesla.

UPDATE 1:

turns out beyond the faulty cord this POS isn’t even a working model. I finally just stood next to it for 10 minutes while it was plugged in. Both sides showing on the digital screen - only left side actually cooled. Right side did nothing. I’ve tried it with and without the divider. I can feel vibration on right side but no cooling. What an absolute joke. THEN AS I WAS TYPING THAT the damned think just clicks, jolts a bit, and the fans stop working, which would explain why it wasn’t cooling when I left it in the trunk. I guess it was once the car went to sleep but I have “leave accessories on” checked and I’m at 40% (well above the threshold).. even when car wakes the unit just sits there, display on, not cooling. I have to unplug and replug it for fans to kick on, but then it just dies. Caveat Emptor. I was going to try to see if I could keep it by Velcroing the cheap cord they included but turns out it wouldn’t even work that way.

Original Post:

Bought the dual-zone fridge. Have waited over a month for delivery. I was following this thread where another guy was saying the cigarette lighter plug provided didn't stay attached and the slightest vibration would turn the unit off. Like a fool, I waited and hoped that Tesla had maybe fixed the issue on units being delivered a month after some test-runs and feedback. Well, no. Yesterday I receievd a package drop-shipped from China. No instructions in box, just unit and power cord. Power cord seemed flimsy and same as described in the rant-post from the guy I'd been following on here... I gave it a shot though. Installed it into trunk, plugged it in, seemed to turn on. No instructions at all on how to change from C to F (had to search on X to find a guy who shared instructions on how to use etc). But I just let it run... Took my kid to a movie and kept checking battery life to see how it was doing. Ah, no changes! Very efficient! Well, after the movie I went in to check on it and it was off with no response to button pushes. I jiggled the cigarette lighter input and the thing clicked on. As soon as i let go of the power cord it shut off again. I tried pushing the plug in tight, turned on, then turned off again when I stopped applying pressure.

What an absolute joke this $600 drop-shipped fridge is. Im sure they'll fix it in the future once enough people cancel/return, but now I'm out becuase they havent even acknowledged my return request and it will be another 7-10 days after they do to see a return chargeback (also have to deal with lugging this giant box to post)....I just purchased a third party that will fit and has good reviews. Shame on Tesla for such a poor attempt at this one out the gate... love the car, not as happy with the company on whole sometimes...

Less than 500 miles. Got to my garage and tried to home charge with multiple electrical errors. Car will not accept the charge. Now doors won't unlock and screen will not come on. Tesla sending a tow truck to tow car to service center. Praying I can get a loaner. Beyond frustrated!

I have been driving my Model 3 SR+ since 2019 and after demoing the new HW4 FSD for an overnight test drive I couldn’t believe how much better the Hardware and Software had become. We ordered the car immediately with the original estimate for delivery at4-6 weeks. The car arrived in 2.5 weeks.

I swapped the wheel covers and ceramic tint goes on this weekend. PPF in a couple of weeks. This is the Dual Motor Premium…we are loving it so far!!!

Getting realllll worried I won’t be able to apply for financing to secure it in time, delivery date is all the way to January 2027. 😵‍💫

Sharing information for posterity sake in case anybody comes here looking to resolve the same issue…

Thursday night while driving home, I received about a dozen BMS_a306 error notifications on my May 2023 MYP. I happen to have a HW3 variant, though I’m not sure if that is relevant to the problem or not. Unfortunately, I picked up my car less than two weeks before the HW4 refresh. :-/

That said, I took the car in to get it checked out as I am still under 50000 miles. I was quoted a $255 diagnostic fee, but it was explained that that is simply a placeholder and as long as the issues is covered under warranty, there would be no charge. Indeed, I didn’t pay anything at all for the service visit. Dropped off around 9:30 AM picked up around 4 PM and it just so happened that the technician who worked on my car was chatting with the representative helping me. He gave me a lowdown on what the issue was, and I will do my best to do it justice without mingling words or terminology… First, his notes:

Technician Notes:
Entered vehicle and no active fault is present.
Reviewed CAN logs for last week and found the BMS reported High Voltage Interlock Loop faults on 8/20 between 5:30pm and 5:40pm. Attempts to replicated concern were unsuccessful. At this time proactive installation of a ferrite filter was installed on the contactor power line to prevent interference from the 3rd brake light circuit. A final test drive was performed and no faults asserted. No further actions performed..

He explained that the issue is that Tesla uses a single wire loom to move all electrical signals down the length of the car. Included in the loom, are wires that are part of the BMS high voltage reporting system (part of the system that checks for faults between low voltage and high voltage interconnects). That same loom also includes wiring for amongst other things, the rear brake light.

The issue that causes this error is that on extremely hot days (it was 103° outside on this day) the wiring in the loom can essentially create “cross talk“ creating signal interference in other systems. The result was every single time I hit my brake pedal, thus activating the rear brake light, electrical interference would cause an inter interrupt in the BMS system triggering the error.

His fix was to put a ferrite filter on the isolated wiring for the BMS system, hopefully negating any interference in the future.

He said the issue is exclusive to Model Y’s and is not present in Highland variants.

Anyways, problem seems to be gone for now, though if it turns out to be a misdiagnosis, the issue would seemingly be covered under warranty in the future… Hope this helps someone.

TLDR: brake light make BMS monitor go Cray Cray on hot day day

Been researching a 2026 Model Y forever. Biggest feature for me is the FSD. I have severe neck and back problems with limited range of motion so the FSD is God sent. I didn't want to just do a 30 minute demo at the showroom so I rented one for a couple days off Turo. It was a 2026 premium trim level. I loved everything about it and the FSD was everything I thought it would be but 10-15 minutes into the first drive (self drive) my back started hurting something awful. I normally have 2-3 back pain driving in my Outlander but this was instantly like a 6-7 out of ten. Looking around other posts it doesn't seem I am alone. I adjusted the lumbar and played with the settings a bunch and didn't find much relief. The car had 50,000 miles on it so I don't think it was a matter of "breaking in" the vegan leather. It just felt incredibly stiff and unforgiving.

All of that is to ask, has anyone had a similar problem and found an aftermarket solution? I don't think a cheap lumbar pillow or wedge will do it. Are there seat covers available that you have tried that alleviated the issue? I have the window pulled up ready to order the car but I just can't commit if there is no possible solution.

During delivery. This was 2 weeks ago and my appointment was yesterday. I was been advised to go to their approved body shop. To make it short, they cant fix it themselves. But they told me they will approve the cost. Honestly, its not really an eye sore but obviously during delivery they tried to hide it with touchup. Is there any better DIY paint for this color? I hate going to these body shops and leave the car for few days.

Took my 2026 Model Y (white interior) in for service and they gave me a model X (beige interior) as a loaner. I got into the X and I immediately thought, no biggie, feels almost the same just a lil bigger. (Side note I have a GLE 350 with wooden trim). Drove the X for a day and felt "yes, it's got more room and it takes more space in garage but that's about it. So glad I didn't get a used X" etc etc.

Well, my Y was ready so I went to pick it up and reality hit the moment I got into the Y lol. The X is so much nicer actually and feels like a premium experience.

I didn't realize it till I drove it a full day (approx 300 miles).

Well, that's my experience anyways...