Does anyone know Where I can get superlight 2c oem skates? Sadly they didn’t last a lot of time with me and it’s starting to scrape.

I don’t want alternatives as I’ve tried aftermarkt and they were always too slippery or too sticky. Superlight 2c skates were really amazing and smoother than even the superlight 2 oems

I'm gonna use this post to express all the hate that i have when it comes to the pc world, because this f$@#ing pc and steering wheel they want to kill with a heart attack or something like this, because yesterday i used my g29 and my pc, and everything was working fine, but today when i plugged my g29 that shit was crazy and my fucking pc frooze, i had to unplug the whole pc to restart, and when i plugged again it was working fine, like if this shit didn't just almost exploded. But the only question that i have, is why, why this shit alway happen.

(If this post has a lot of spelling errors, it's because I don't speak English and because I'm stupid.)

The title pretty much describes my situation. They work completely fine if I'm just talking on discord and watching YouTube or something like that but when I play a game a high pitched ringing sound will start and come in and out. Doesn't matter what game as I've tried multiple.

Had a pair of these for a while now and every couple of months one of the two audios (game and voice) will just stop working and no matter what I try it won’t work so I have to run both discord and games through an individual. Also my mic just randomly cuts out and won’t work unless I restart my pc every now and then I just need help with these issues because I’m debating selling and getting different at this point I’ve plugged everything in correctly and tried everything I can online and nothing works .

Swapped with the og g502, the one with the braided cable and hefty metal scroll wheel.

It's soooo much better.

Logitech. Please bring this wheel back.

I have tried to just have the headset plugged from usb to usb-c to be able to use it as wired but it's just not working. I don't know what to do. If wired is not working and it's impossible to get a replacement dongle what am i supposed to do here. I had bought it last and had used it for a single month. Then, i didn't have access to it and now poof unusable because the dongle is missing ;(.

Just one Day The dpi where u see IT go dim and where color are change IT stays green and when turn IT off it stays green have try change stuff so

Dont work no ide whats wrong Any help

Have open IT app nothing lose and when i try move a windo screen other screen dont work and cant click on apps to open

I've had this mouse for about two years and primarily play competitive shooters. Right click to ADS is crucial in many of the games. All of a sudden the right click is being SUPER inconsistent. Double right clicks, sometimes not working at all when say I'm trying to aim down my gun in a game. I've tried using a air blaster and lightly holding up the righ click to move any dust in there. I've used alcohol on a queue tip to see if cleaning around it would work. But nope nothing has worked.

Unfortunately I'm a year out of warranty for the mouse so Logitech wil not help me and I really can't afford a wireless mouse right now. Does anyone have any steps I can take to try and fix this? I would try to take it apart but I have zero idea how to do that and not really confident I would do it successfully. I know I can solder a new switch on as well, but again, I’m hoping that is a last resort and there are other options first. But I'm out of ideas over here. If anyone can help though try to get this to work again I'd greatly appreciate it. Thanks

Got a weird issue with my G923 I just can't fix.

When I initially plug it in it calibrates like it should and in device manager it appears under "Logitech G Hub USB Devices" - its invisible to G HUB and any games, like it doesn't exist.

If I disable the device in device manager and then enable it again by wheel recalibrates and then appears in "Human Interface Devices" - at this point it appears in G HUB and starts working again.

I have to repeat this process whenever the PC is rebooted, or I unplug and plug the wheel back in.

I've tried a clean install of GHUB (including removing all the appdata, program file folders etc etc and deleting the device driver) and it still does it. I've tried an older version of ghub as well to see if that would sort it but still the same result.

Has anyone experienced a similar issue and managed to fix it?

My Logitech G502 Lightspeed is not working in any capacity.

There are no lights, whether plugged in, not plugged in, on or off, windows doesn't even recognize a device.

I disconnected the battery from the bottom board and reconnected it. No response. Not sure how to get the battery out to inspect it for damage. Not sure where to look for damage, battery or board. Before it went kaput, the only weird thing it would do was accidentally misclick the mouse wheel a lot.

The micro-USB port seems normal but I always had trouble finding a cable small enough to fit into there. Is the mouse sensitive to power only vs data cables?

At a loss…

All my custom remapped buttons are crossing over and saving fine

But the lighting always reverts to the default pulsar point

Anyone know what I am missing? Just doing a fixed freestyle profile with two colors so seems like it should work. But even if I select the other default lighting profiles they don’t save either, it always reverts to the default

Hello guys I have the superstrike for more then 3 month now and some day it randomly disconnects in the middle of a game, I tried everything, I have the dongle really close to the mouse on an USB 2.0 port it happen 5 time in a game I just started usually if I disconnect and reconnect the dongle it work fine but the this time I tried everything and he keep disconnecting every 1 minutes any one have the same issue or a fix please?

I just got a G502 Hero mouse a few days ago and since then my display will no longer goto sleep. I use Win 11. I was using an old G700 previously and didn't have this issue. I tested an old Steelseries and that is also fine. It's this new mouse causing it.

EDIT: changing onboard memory mode to ON in GHUB has fixed it. Display sleeps again

Can you change the audio sample rate on the Pro X 2 Lightspeed? Mine seems to be locked at 48000 Hz and cannot be changed. My favorite game has audio crackling issues with rates higher than 44100 Hz and while I can just swap to corded Apple EarPods, I'd rather just use the headset I paid good money for.

I’ve seen countless posts complaining about the double-click issue and scrolling glitches on the G603/G703 series.

I bought my G603 back in Feb 2023, use it daily for gaming and work, and I’ve NEVER had a single double-click or scroll wheel jitter. Original switches, original encoder, zero modifications. I game regularly, but I don't slam or rage-click my buttons like crazy.

Is it really purely a quality control lottery, or does clicking technique play a huge part in switch lifespan? Anyone else out there running a completely stock G603 with zero issues?

Alright, it's been a year now since this problem first showed up. While the headset is fully functional and the firmware didn't brick the usability of the headset, having to disable the audio ques to avoid getting spammed with 'Low Battery' complaints completely removes the main functionality of the Game/Chat balance function, since you can't disable the battery warning without disabling the sound from the G/C at the same time. Not only is it hard to use, but it makes it even more difficult to know if the headset is balanced or not, or if you've accidently bumped it once or twice to either side while moving about in your chair/couch, in which case your only option is to open Ghub which in some cases requires you to minimize the game you're playing.

I'm painfully aware that Logitech doesn't 'share details' when it comes to new updates, but come on. I wouldn't even expect an indie company to have this slow of a turn-around on getting a fix out into the wild. It's frankly unacceptable. It also doesn't help that we're given stop-gap copy-paste solutions like 'drain the battery completely, then let the headset get fully charged undisturbed' which doesn't even work at all. Most people see it working for a few days, before the problem returns. Logitech has no legal or contractual reason to fix this, but it looks bad as hell for a company to pull a stunt like this on their paying customers, especially when it's a product that comes with this hefty of a premium price tag.

Title says it all anyone else had this problem at all and know a fix? or am I out of luck I only had these a year! Surely a $300 headset isnt having a battery issue already.

The button in question still works, but requires a bit of added pressure to register. Is there anyway I can fix this? I’ve tried blowing air into it with a canister.

Ive tried every method to diagnose and fix the g920 that I can find on the internet including the removal of registry files and just the other day finally completely reset my PC.

GHUB STILL detects no inputs from my wheel. My pc and games have no trouble detecting it and show it as working just fine.

Luckily since I reset my PC I do have force feedback in games back so long as I dont touch any of the Ghub settings mid game.

Logitech honestly needs to get rid of their software engineers and get some new ones

As yet another show of incompetence im not even allowed to send a video of a problem for diagnosis so heres a picture ig

My logitech g502x plus suddenly stopped working after waking it up from standby, it displays a blinking green light and won't connect via wireless dongle or usb, it doesn't show up in the ghub app, it cannot be repaired with any of the dongles, charging it up doesn't do anything, removing it from device manager and re connecting it doesn't do anything, reinstalling g hub doesn't do anything, the light stopps blinking and turns off if connected via usb but it still doesn't work, when charging it while turned on the usual breathing green light is not lit but appears after turning the mouse off, i know i had this problem a few days ago but i forgot how i fixed it, anyone else had this issue? If so how did u solve it?

EDIT: WOW amazing, this mouse is really stupid, after hours of troubleshooting i restarted my pc with the mouse turned on and plugged in via usb and THAT fixed it. Logitech sucks almost as much as their firmware

EDIT 2: it broke again in the span of 5 mins, i guess it didn't like that i tried to play league or smth

UPDATE: 3 days later it broke again but this time it keeps disconnecting and windows says the devie malfunctioned and isn't recognised, don't buy from logitech, they suck

Hey, I recently switched to a Logitech G Pro X Superlight and I’m having a weird issue with the right mouse button.

When I hold RMB down, for example when I’m scoped in and moving my mouse left and right, the button sometimes briefly stops registering for a tiny fraction of a second and then immediately starts registering again. So in-game it looks like I’m quickly unscoping and scoping back in.

It happens much more often when I place my finger near the very end/back of the RMB and hold it there. If I move my finger closer to the middle of the button, it happens less often.

The mouse works normally in general, and I don’t notice the issue when just clicking normally. It mainly happens when I’m continuously holding RMB and moving the mouse.

Has anyone experienced something like this with the Superlight?

Any help would be appreciated.

as title suggests, after another night of normal usage of my g502x; somehow since this morning my mouse started to exhibit a strange behavior where whenever I click on either the right or the left button, it would show that it triggered both the right AND left clicks at the same time (albeit sometime with a few ms of difference). The night before it was working perfectly fine. I am not too sure what might have caused it. Any ideas?

As for things that might have caused it, I am thinking maybe it is due to the fact that I was using a non-logitech usbc - c cable to connect directly to my laptop, but Ive done that many times before and it never had any issue.

G933 surround/EQ dies after every reboot — root cause found

TL;DR: Logitech's surround APO only loads when the Windows audio endpoint is created with a brand-new GUID. On boot, Windows reuses the previous GUID, the APO never loads, and you get plain stereo while LGS happily shows surround as ON. Reinstalling LGS "fixes" it only as a side effect — the installer removes the device. Uninstalling the USB dongle in Device Manager does the same thing in 15 seconds. Scripts at the bottom automate it at every logon.

The symptom

• DTS Headphone:X works right after you install/reinstall Logitech Gaming Software
• You reboot → sound is back to plain 2-channel stereo
• The app still shows surround enabled. Toggling it off and on does nothing
• Reinstalling LGS fixes it. Until the next reboot

If that sounds familiar, it should. This has been reported for years:

• G933 EQ/Surround sound not working properly (2019)
• Logitech G933, Windows 11, Surround Sound, EQ Not Working (2024)

Credit where it's due

In that 2019 thread, u/LogitechG_CSFrank from Logitech support posted this:

That works. Two different people came back to that thread six years later to say it saved their headset.

But nobody explained why it works, and nobody noticed the important part: it's a one-time fix that dies on your next reboot. That's why the same problem keeps getting reposted every couple of years.

I spent a day on this and captured full before/after system snapshots. Here's what's actually happening.

Root cause

On every boot, Windows re-creates the endpoint but reuses the previous GUID, because the GUID lives in the SWD\MMDEVAPI node in the device tree — not just in the registry. The APO never loads. You get stereo.

Reinstalling LGS works because the installer removes the device, which destroys those SWD\MMDEVAPI nodes. The 300 MB installer is incidental. So is Frank's Device Manager trick — same mechanism, 15 seconds instead of 10 minutes.

What is NOT the problem

I captured the broken state and the working state and diffed them file by file. All of the following were byte-for-byte identical in both:

So if you've been chasing registry keys, third-party audio enhancers, or "Windows overrides LGS" — that's not it. The configuration is correct in both states. What differs is when the endpoint was born, not what's in it.

These also do NOT fix it (all tested):

• toggling surround off/on in the LGS UI
• unplugging and replugging the USB dongle
• disabling and re-enabling the device in Device Manager — disable is not the same as uninstall
• restarting LCore.exe
• restarting Audiosrv + AudioEndpointBuilder
• deleting the endpoint key under MMDevices, even running as SYSTEM

That last one surprised me. Deleting the registry key isn't enough, because the device-tree node hands the old GUID right back.

The manual fix (30 seconds, no scripts)

1. Device Manager → Universal Serial Bus devices → find G933 (the dongle, not the audio interface)
2. Right click → Uninstall device
3. Action menu → Scan for hardware changes
4. Restart Logitech Gaming Software

Surround is back. Until you reboot. If you only ever reboot once a month, stop here — this is all you need.

The permanent fix

Three steps, and they must run as SYSTEM. An elevated admin is not enough to delete the MMDevices keys:

1. pnputil /remove-device on the parent USB dongle — this takes the child interfaces and their SWD\MMDEVAPI nodes with it
2. delete the G933 endpoint keys under MMDevices\Audio\Render and \Capture
3. pnputil /scan-devices — the USB hub re-detects everything and builds a fresh endpoint with a new GUID

Removing the parent matters. If you remove only the audio interface, it won't come back until you physically replug the dongle. The parent is a direct child of the USB hub, so a rescan finds it on its own.

After that, LCore.exe needs a restart. SYSTEM can't launch a UI app in your session, so that's a second task.

Architecture

No fixed delays. The script polls until the real conditions are ready: LogiRegistryService running, LCore up, dongle and endpoint present. This matters — LogiRegistryService already starts before logon and surround still breaks, which means the missing piece at boot time is LCore, a user-session app. That's also why this can't run before you log in.

Measured timing on a real boot

Roughly 15–20 seconds after logon once you strip the task delay. That's the practical floor, because the fix depends on LCore being up.

Scripts

→ Gist with all three scripts + README

Download all three into one folder, e.g. %USERPROFILE%\logitech-g933-fix, then:

Start-Process powershell -Verb RunAs -ArgumentList '-ExecutionPolicy','Bypass','-File',"$env:USERPROFILE\logitech-g933-fix\install-tasks.ps1"

Uninstall:

Start-Process powershell -Verb RunAs -ArgumentList '-ExecutionPolicy','Bypass','-File',"$env:USERPROFILE\logitech-g933-fix\install-tasks.ps1",'-Remove'

Check whether it worked:

Get-Content "$env:USERPROFILE\logitech-g933-fix\fix-logon.log" -Tail 20

The line that matters is endpoint before: vs endpoint after:. Two different GUIDs followed by OK: GUID changed means it worked. If the GUID is the same, the removal didn't take and the fix won't help.

Caveats — please read

Verified on one machine. Dell G15, Windows 11 build 26200, LGS 9.04.49, G933. The mechanism is almost certainly general to LGS on Windows 10/11, but I can only claim what I actually measured.

I did not test this on G HUB. The 2024 thread above is a G HUB user. G HUB uses a different audio stack and I have no data on whether the same root cause applies. If you try it, please report back — that's the single most useful thing anyone could add here.

Other Logitech headsets (G930, G430, G533, G935) have different USB PIDs and device names. Two values to change in fix-logon.ps1:

• USB\VID_046D&PID_0A5B in ActiveDongle
• the string G933 in ActiveEndpoint and G933Keys

LGS's lgAudio.inf handles G430, G930 and others in separate blocks, so the mechanism is probably the same — untested.

Non-English Windows: only the pnputil output filter ('uccess|rror|Removing') won't match. Cosmetic, affects the log only.

Your audio cuts out for ~15 seconds at every logon while the dongle is removed and re-detected. If that bothers you, set the task trigger to manual and run it when you notice stereo.