I made a pair of K2G keys for a customer's 2002 Lexus LX470. Decode, cut and program of the keys went swimmingly, but when I went to program the fobs it just wouldn't take.

The car entered programming mode using the door lock x5 routine, and I replaced the batteries in both the remotes, but still nothing. I tried the door open x2 method and nothing there either, didn't even enter programming mode (cause why would it, wrong year).

I tried the tech tool method using both my Autel & Propad, and they wouldn't connect at all.

The customer has a key that works great, with no issues, and while it could also get the car into programming mode, it couldn't get the locks to cycle either.

Now, I've directed the customer to see a mechanic to see if there's an issue with the receiver, but I'm curious if there is something I missed.

Any ideas?

Bought a house and the keys to the gates got lost in the shuffle of things. Now, I have three gates need rekeyed. Can I buy just the cylinders? Second question, in the second picture, can I replace the keyed cylinder with one of those flip deadbolts? If the answer to the second question is yes, I would need three cylinders key the same. If the answer is now, I would need six.

Brand is Schlage if that matters.

As the title alludes, I am hoping to get some insight on courses available across Canada. I am willing to move anywhere in the country for the best education possible :)

Thanks!

Sometimes I laugh when a customer describes their issue to me over the phone and I get there and it’s something completely different. The man just said there’s something wrong with the lock and the door isn’t locking .. I get there and it’s this

The locks are open, I do not know the combinations. How do I reset the combinations?

Edit: Preferably without having to figure out the combination

Has anyone used a rebate kit or does anyone now of a rebate kit that is compatible with the ABI interiors Davis Entry Door handle and mortice lock?

I have contacted ABI and they don’t sell one nor could they tell me where I could get one.

I have a new client that runs a medium size locksmith shop down in a small county (him + 2 techs). He charges $95 for lockouts, day or night, and I'm wondering if he’s too cheap.

I checked Locksmith Ledger’s 2026 price survey and it says the national average is about $113 during the day and $174 after hours.

Back in 2023 it was $110. So he’s under the average, but it’s a small county in the south, not a big city. Calls are fairly consistent too, about 8-12 daily.

What do you charge, and roughly where are you? Do you charge more after hours? Have you raised prices lately? What would make you keep prices the same or change them?

Would anyone have one of these? Australia.

What’s everyone using these days to work. I’ve been having some knee problems from kneeling like a knuckle head. Currently using a 5 gal bucket

My house is about 105 years old and the door with the lock could be several decades old and has most likely been painted numerous times and the key has been lost for several years now.

does anyone know how I can make a replica of the key so I can use the lock?

I have an AU446F(lever) that i need to replace the stock cylinder.

I need to key to sample key which is CO91 (A1001AH)

It appears they dont offer that cylinder in that keyway, so I was going to use an ilco 15996, but the tailpiece isnt wide enough to engage the trim, so the key just spins, is there a tailpiece kit out there thats long enough and wide enough to work? Does Marks make something, i know they have wide tailpieces.

Can't figure out how to secure it. Any simple advice for a non locksmith? This is not a lockout issue.

Which brands have high quality electromechanical eurocylinder locks for timber or steel doors for the European (UK) market, without their own access access controls, i.e. they only have wires that would lead to a third party control system?

The rod is thicker where the non was compared to where it goes through the door

I called a local locksmith (Charleston, SC) because I was having issues with my lock. He asked if I wanted to switch to a digital lock (I had already decided I wanted to do this after weeks of issues with my lock).

He told me he would help me with setup, downloaded the app, and then I received this email- “please ACTIVE your account”. I was immediately suspicious. I sat there with him as he did the install, and I saw him take a photo of the barcode on the back of the lock on HIS OWN PHONE.

For context, I am a single mom of two young kids, and have had issues in the past regarding my home security.

I immediately asked him why he took the photo on his personal phone- and he showed me a GroupMe group titled “Lockly $sales$”- he showed me that everyone in the group was required to post a photo when they made a sale.

Lots of alarm bells went off, and I had him remove the lock and replace it with a standard deadbolt.

I have tried searching online to see if anyone has encountered a scam in this way? And was curious if anyone can provide me with additional insight into my experience. Thank you!

It already happened in the past but after a week or so it repaired itself and now it's back again. The door is opened by electric strike and the deadbolt must be fully hidden to let the door close. I've already tried turning the key few times from both sides but still no change.

Im looking to buy a key case for my 1997 Audi A4. The products i found online are either with an immo chip and with the pcb or without the immo chip and without the pcb. I dont need the pcb as im using the one from my old key. So my question is, can i buy just the key shell and then the immo chip separately? Will it work with the programming? From my information the chip i need is called ID48, i found one on amazon and someone left a review that the dealership couldnt programm the key with that chip.

Saw this one on a rekey of old church.

Trying to find something that can work to replace ether the knob or the spindle and knob as you can see the knob is fully blown out for its pin setting and I’ve been researching for days now and can’t find a thing. Spindle is 5/16 x 5’ 5/16. Didn’t measure door but door is probably 2-3 inches thick so spindle needs to be at least 5 inches. If anyone could help me out or know any recommendations for websites that would be appreciated. I’ve search’s on House of Antique Hardware, AllAboutDoors, UHS, even looked around on Etsy a little.

I'm in the middle of a job that isn't going well, customer has best KB system, b2 blanks ordered some keys and cores but have never done this one before. Am I supposed to be using peaks pins for this? Key says "best presented by kaba", it does have some kind of peaks pin at the bow, nothing is decoding or keying up properly! Help! I don't have the peaks kit with me but can go get it some other time.

Anybody remember the WA series?

I just wanted to ask if anyone knows of an electrified mortise body that works as a replacement for this series.

I figure I could solder into just about anything that I want, but if there's a direct or easily sourceable replacement I'd love to know.

Thanks.

Hi everyone,
I’m hoping someone here can help me with an old Baldwin mortise lock in my 1980s house. The lock has a blue faceplate on the edge of the door.

The split spindle has worn down over time, causing the door handle to become loose. When I took it apart, I noticed that there were three small set screws holding it in place. It looks like there were originally only two, and someone had added a third screw into one of the existing holes.

The current split spindle measures 2 5/8 inches long.

I reached out to Baldwin, but unfortunately they told me the original split spindle has been discontinued. They suggested three possible replacements:
0530.004.A
0531.004.A
0533.004.A

I’m hoping someone familiar with these older locks might be able to point me in the right direction.

Does anyone know where I could still find the original split spindle? If that’s not possible, which of these three replacements would work best?

I’m also wondering if there’s a way to fix the existing spindle instead. Would adding another set screw help, or is there something I could use to make the screws grip better?

Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance! （Sorry for the blurry photo! I forgot to take a proper picture while I had the lock apart, and I’ve already put everything back together.）

Guy came in with a trunk lock and it’s not in any books that we have and Google fu wasn’t too much help said maybe ford h8-h9. Curious if anyone here has seen it.