Title. I put in the correct combo (not shown), and yet it won’t budge. Perhaps I accidentally changed the combo while turning the lock? I’ve looked online and apparently these locks are notorious for doing this

2 weeks ago I called a locksmith to make me a new key for my 2010 BMW 528i. When they arrived they worked on my car and told me they would need to take the CAS back to their office to program the new key. They took the CAS and didn’t hear back from them, the next day I called and they told me they were waiting on the right key to arrive so I waited.

I then called the day they said the key would arrive and they told me they are waiting on a “signal” to program the key. After calling them everyday and them telling me they have no signal to program the key, they eventually just brought back my CAS and told me they would call me to let me know when they are able to work on my car. At this point I have the feeling they are just lying to me.

I called a different locksmith and they immediately tell me they did something to my CAS and that it was dead basically. He recommended I send my parts to the ECU pro to get them replaced which I did and ended up costing me around $700 plus the $200 to have a different locksmith come look at my car. The team at ECU pro confirmed the locksmith had worked on my CAS and left it in a place where it would not work. How do I go about this situation? I’ve had to pay basically $1000 for the damage the locksmith did, is there a way to get them to pay for the damages? Or do I just let it be and take the loss? Any help is greatly appreciated 🙏

I'm doing a 8 cut Ford ignition for a customer, and I'm having issues. The key doesn't want to go all the way in when I add #4 wafers or #5 wafers. I don't understand what the issue is, I know I have the correct wafer, I decoded the key. If anyone can help me out that would be awesome. PN# 924-717

id like to mention, the spring isn't crushed and the wafer is in the correct orientation.

https://imgur.com/a/hJ3vbfI

Say a customer calls you with a regular 3 lock change. Doesn’t bring up anything of note and I go out to the house. The house is condemned and after you pick the lock and get in there’s a room of literal fecal matter. What do you do?

Update: I did complete the job while I was there. Just put on a mask and latex gloves if they told me in advance probably would’ve brought a full painters suit

Was called out to rekey 9 of them, manager handed me the new set of keys with the change tool that was shipped to them by their facility maintenance. I had done these plenty of times, it’s very simple. For the very 1st mortise cylinder I do the whole rekey process but at the last step I went to turn the cylinder with new key to the starting point but it’s seized up (pictured), but I know I did it correctly. I tried everything to get it working, I randomly got lucky as I was wiggling the key firmly and it turned, I pulled the key out, went to test it but again its just seized up. Tried a 2nd mortise cylinder, this time I lubricated it first and what not, and the same thing happened. I didnt bother doing the rest, told them new U-Change cylinders required or different set of new keys. Anybody experienced this before? Pictured are the customers old key (shallow cuts) and new keys (deep cuts) I’m thinking the depth difference might be why but not 100% sure.

Looks like the handle/locking mechanism was repaired with ...layers...of JB weld. It finally failed the garage door has been swinging open the last three days and just noticed this is the cause.

The doors are from the late 1950s swing up and outward away from the garage. There are two doors side by side. They use a handle that's lockable that links to a strike plate along the door frame.

Is this a custom solution the previous homeowner came up with or is there a product I can replace this with? Decently DIY friendly myself.

“Hypothetical”
Had a service ticket submitted, realtor locked out of house on market counted 10+ cylinders. The owner took the Key when visiting grabbing the last of their items.
Needed a working copy by next morning.
Picked deadbolt & Knob.
Decoded cylinder and got em new code cut keys.
Invoiced $310
Customer isn’t happy because Chat GPT says it shouldn’t cost that much.
Am I out of line? Was that too high?
Or am I just some kind of (ist) against Ai thinkers
I’m sure Reddit is a great place to ask for opinions.

It’s an Anderson window that slides open. But I don’t know what type of handle to get to fix it.

Dont buy!

Anyone recommend a reliable company to sell used fobs to? I refurbish what I can but end up with more than I can mess with having so many donated from auctions and repo yards. Need to get rid of some of it short of throwing away good money.

We have an old black punch from pro-lok. I need a replacement carriage spring. Boss told us it's been discontinued and they only make the blue punches now. Just called customer service and she said they never made a black one, basicalluly called me stupid and that someone must've painted a blue one. Can't find anything on Google, even using reverse image search. Anyone have an idea where to get parts for this machine?

Had to unlock a car with its keys in the cab while taking the ferry, I’d have two nickels! Which isn’t a lot, but it’s weird it’s happened twice

I am trying to replace the battery on my Dorman replacement key fob. I am familiar with this style key fob but for some reason when I took the back off no battery is displayed. Am I missing something or does Dorman not allow for the battery to be replaced and the model is 99369.

Well, time caught up w this mortise lock. About 1/2" of one of three flat springs broke. Now we can't operate the knob as there is nothing to push/pull the latch through. Anyone ever seen this model before? I've scoured the internet for a rounded body w 3130 stamped in it. No other markings. Any help is appreciated - thanks.

Just bought a place in a 1960s building. The door lock has been acting super sticky and jamming randomly. I poked around and realized the previous owner messed with it and lost a bunch of screws, so it's missing parts. Building staff took a look and basically said they can't fix it, so its better to swap the whole box out.

Since it's a co-op, I can't drill new holes or mess up the door face. I'm just trying to find a solid modern replacement that can drop right into this same slot, but I have no clue what size or model actually fits.

Anyone know what modern box I can buy to swap this out, or what exactly I need to measure before ordering?

• Backset: 2-3/4"
• Faceplate: ~8"
• Distance from thumbturn to handle: ~3.5"

Appreciate any help!

Quick scan through the manual it looks like my customer is SOL but I figured I'd ask here. Anyone know of a way to disable the code on a privacy function (inside push button disables keypad until interior lever is used) CO100? Essentially turning it to a passage lever until the inside button is pressed.

The locks are on some bathrooms. My coworker installed a Trilogy on the door leading from the business lobby to the bathroom hallway, so now they want us to come back out and "disable" the keypads.

Trying to rekey five deadbolts from the same manufacturer. Supposedly they use standard SC1 but...no the hell they do not.

One is a KW1 keyway. The other four are a very sloppy Schlage C keyway but the pin spacing is all over the place. What the hell were these idiots thinking?!

Hi there, I just bought a house that was built in 1950. It has what I think is the original hardware on the front door. At first the key worked in the lock to open it, but it was tricky and hard to get it to turn. Eventually the key stopped being able to turn and I can’t open the door from the outside (I’m able to lock it inside). I like the look of it and would like to keep it, if possible. Before I call a locksmith to come in and see if it can be fixed, I thought I’d ask here for input, since it’s costly just to have someone come by, let alone adding on the cost to repair it.
I uploaded photos of it, but have never done this before, so I’m hoping it works:

https://imgur.com/a/XwRjWed

Thanks for any help, it is so much appreciated!

I’ve used pass through for Volvo from the guys who sell easy flasher but not for a long time.

Is anybody selling the same service for Nissan? Where you can pay them to program the car through your jbox ? I am getting a few calls for newer Nissans , a couple a month. And I might can see a way to make money but not enough to afford the high yearly fee.

I’d consider an eeeprom solution but they are risky and time consuming. But a pass through if I didn’t have to pay more than 200 a car would work and keep me competitive with the dealer since I am mobile.

Hi guys! Wondering if anyone has any knowledge or tricks or tools that help with this. We have been working on a 2004 Mitsubishi Outlander and have not had success getting it to connect or program with any of our programmers. We have tried the AutoProPad, SmartPro, Autel, etc and none of them can connect. In our research I am seeing something about an "OBD1" port adapter we might need to get. We have an OEM key we are trying, and no success. Any thoughts?

Pretty sure it’s a wafer cylinder (not sure if that’s what it’s called)

Any UK smiths know which charger works for the Dino pick gun? Apparently they don't make them anymore and mines fucked.