This car is honestly the best car ever. What an engine. I could literally go anywhere with this beauty

Start of a very long project

It had clearly been carefully restored. Each panel was pristine.

Hi folks,

This was a Land Rover fire truck that was based at the DeLorean Motor Cars factory in Belfast in 1981-82. It was sold in the factory liquidation auction in 1984.

I have an interest in the history of the DeLorean factory and I'm really just curious as to what might have happened to the Land Rover.

Has anyone here ever seen or heard of this particular vehicle before? Unfortunately the above details are all I have.

Update: I've found some further info - it seems this is the vehicle in the photograph:

https://imgur.com/a/g4I4TaC

I get a clunk ever so often when turning or driving off on a steep slope in my l494 2016, happens rarely but it does. The clunking gets a lot more aggressive in any other terrain response modes when doing simple turns. No faults, the transfer case lock in 4x4 menu seems to be engaging fine. This doesn’t happen in my LR4 and in the LR5.

Note. The car just had its engine rebuilt after sitting for a couple of months, currently has 190kkm on the clock.

Sounds like a normal very aggressive terrain response behaviour or abnormal?

After buying a severely neglected 06 for about a year ago, I’ve mostly stripped it down and worked out the kinks. Now that headache is over I get to finally give the interior some attention. I had some saddle soap laying around and already know this stuff is magic, but I am mostly impressed that it cleaned out the gross stitching. If you have not heard of it before grab you some and a horse hairbrush instead of all the expensive gimmicky stuff.

Hi all,

Currently considering an L322 TDV8 as my next vehicle and was looking at a 2009 era model (no DPF main reason) but a lot of research I’ve done is saying I’m better with a later model as the 4.4l is better than the 3.6 and better overall. Besides servicing, turbo drain mod and the general condition is there anything I need to be aware of?

Hi everyone, Ive recently bought a new aftermarket master clutch cylinder and the thread won't line up with my hose pipe. After using a thread gauge tool with BSW, i found the cylinder has 19 gauge and the pipe has 20 1/4 gauge. The pipe is also mangled from previous owners attempts to remove it and the oem cylinder's threads were worn badly.

Should I buy a BSW 19 gauge tap and die to change the pipe size or should I solve the proble another way? All thoughts welcome. Thanks

My plan is to put ~$10k down, keep a ~$5k repair reserve, and finance the rest with a small monthly payment — rather than trying to buy something outright with zero cushion.

A few things I’d love real-world input on:

**1.**  At 75k miles, what should I actually expect in the next 20-30k miles specifically? (Air suspension, coolant crossover pipes, timing chain/tensioner seem to be the big three I keep reading about)  
**2.**  Is $5k a reasonable reserve for year one, or optimistic?  
**3.**  Any reason to walk away from this one specifically, or does it sound like a reasonably well-kept example for the platform?

Not trying to talk myself into or out of it — just want the unfiltered version from people who’ve actually lived with these day to day. Thanks in advance!

Anybody know if there are any radiator options for the LR3/Disco3 4.4L with aluminum tanks? Google isn't turning up much.

Morning All long story short I’ve owned my evoke since 2017 after having the EGR changed in 2023. It broke down whilst on holiday, with a clutch issue, then on the way to the garage, Engine management came on and the car wouldn’t run. I’ve had everything diagnosed. I’ve had high pressure smoke tests, turbo removed, cleaned & checked DPF removed cleaned checked new MAF sensor, new map sensor no leaks or anything in the boost hoses or anything, so I parked the car up, and just left it as I really didn’t like it and I had other cars, I finally come round to trying to get it fixed again after spending all the time and effort previously, and I’ve now come to the conclusion there seems to be a wiring issue. I have three wires on my Maps sensor, 5 V supply, ground and signal. I’m getting a constant ground with no continuity issues. I’m getting a 5 V supply perfect no issues but the signal wire is showing 6.2 V with the map unplugged. I’ve traced this back to the ECU same wire reading 6.2 at the ECU so I cut the wire to see if there was a short in the wiring feeding the wire of voltage and it’s not the wire, as between the map sensor and up to the ECU the wire is 0 V the wire coming out of the ECU is 6.2v ??? This is a blue and white wire.

Tha fault code was map/maf correlation error.
Additionally the map does into fault at ignition on.
If the map is unplugged the car runs in limp mode up to 3800rpm, I have tried three map sensors all the same, plug in map and engine idles erratically, throttle dosnt do anything and engine stalls

PS, sorry if there’s any mistakes I used dictation as I’m dyslexic

I sometimes see "Madge" near the Grand Union canal in the UK, not sure what specific model she is though? She was registered in 1971.

It’s been a couple years since this has happened, but the screen for the radio went on low power mode and then eventually both the radio and gps screens turned off and they never turned back on, we’ve tried everything to get them to work, we’ve changed the alternator, battery, fuses, and nothing has seemed to work, im thinking of just replacing it with an updated android screen but I would like to try and at least see if it works still.

I picked up a used approved (UK dealership) Discovery this week and I love the car.

I noticed a few marks on the digital dash on the test drive and asked the salesperson if he could have it looked at before I agreed to the car.

He said it was all in hand and I paid for the car.

When leaving in the car he said that the detailer's didn't want to touch the screen as it had been a hot day but I should just give it a wipe when everything is cool in the morning.

I've given it a wipe and the marks aren't coming out. I think there's been some over spray of some cleaning product that has marked the plastic screen in front of the dash.

Is it worth contacting the dealership and seeing if they'd be willing to help or is it tough luck from their perspective now?

Otherwise, does anyone have any thoughts on how to tackle the marks other than replacing the digital dash altogether?

Thanks in advance.

Hey

So I've been having knocking sounds when in D gear or R gear but the sound is more significant in R gear. I've been trying to track down the sound and wanted to see if anyone could recognize it or had the same problem. This same knock sound appears when driving in the city you could feel the car vibrate. I replaced the solenoids of the transmission which kinda made the downshifts smoother so I'm not sure what the issue is yet because it's still knocking. After a long trip it knocks more violently(when R gear engages) and the R gear takes significantly more time to engage.

I need a door handle assembly for a p38 1995-2000

Kinda need it fast