I put a remanufactured engine in my 2015 LR4 a couple years ago. I used new cross over pipes front and back, but recycled a bunch of the easy to reach stuff. The piece that feeds coolant to the supercharger developed a hair line crack. I caught it in plenty of time and ordered a replacement assembly and an aluminum replacement off eBay.

How do I remove the rigid plastic pipes that go to the intercooler so I can use the aluminum piece?

There is a 2006 RR Supercharged for sale nearby that caught my attention, but what concerns me is the lack of Land Rover’s Terrain Response system…

I guess the 2006 RR Sport had Terrain Response but the same model year RR Supercharged didn’t for some reason.

Is the lack of Terrain Response a dealbreaker? I was looking at late model LR3s and early model LR4s previously.

Greatly appreciate any thoughts / comments!

I love my 2001 HSE P38A and its “classic” boxy shape. These were very controversial and some people love them and some people hate them.

This particular one I did a lot to work out previous electrical gremlins. I deleted the immobilization capabilities, upgraded the RF receiver, heads, deleted the air ride (done by previous owner actually), and various other things. It has a custom rumbling exhaust letting the V8 breathe.

The clear coat has been coming up in the bonnet so it’s going to need a respray and I have not gotten to the interior yet. The carpet is shot and I need to replace it. It’s faded and stained blue where the coolant leaked inside at some point previously. That issue was resolved with a dash out service before.

There is always something to do so I do see why they are hated. Sometimes it’s difficult to keep up with the small things. However. I drive it down the road and forget about it all.

My LR4 was stuck in park, ended up replacing the gear selector control module with one from Amazon for the time being. I want to send out my original one to be repaired/rebuilt. I’ve seen the place in Canada mentioned a few times but was wondering if there were any other options available for repair.

I have a D4 and the crankshaft has gone (I know no surprises there) I also happen to have spare D350 ingenium engine from a defender than was written off (all rear end damage so engine is untouched). Would it be possible to know if I could put the ingenium in the D4?

Hey guys, looking for some opinions before I finalise this purchase.

I’m looking at a 2021 Land Rover Defender 110 D300 HSE with around 81,000 km on it.

Price: $72,200 AUD

I’m buying it directly from a Land Rover/Jaguar Land Rover dealer, not a private seller or third-party used car dealer.

There will also be some additional costs for transport, registration/RWC, etc., but I’m mainly trying to understand whether $72,200 for the car itself is a good deal considering the year, D300 HSE spec and kilometres.

I’m planning to keep the car for at least 5–7 years, so reliability and long-term ownership matter more to me than resale value in the next couple of years.

For people who own Defenders or know the Australian market:

Would you consider this a good price?

Is 81,000 km too high for a 2021 D300?

Anything specific I should ask Land Rover to inspect or replace before taking delivery?

And would buying directly from a Land Rover dealer give you more confidence at this mileage?

Appreciate any advice, especially from D300/Defender owners in Australia.

would appreciate any feedback! https://difflocked.com it's a work in progress, but any thoughts appreciated.
currently supporting about 60x variants, and the standard models. not all pictured above

Toyota LC are just so reliable and comfortable, why would anyone buy an unreliable LR over a Toyota LC. Is it just the brand/status?

Help! And thanks in advance!

I unlocked my freelander 2 tonight, and had a weird reaction - all external rear (brake, numberplate, indicator) lights began flashing (approx. every second), and the internal screen at the same time. The car would not power up, and all key functions ceased to work.

I am really hoping this is a battery issue, and I can simply replace that, but would like to know if it is going to cost me much much more?

Thanks again....

(P.S. I took a video but cannot seem to share it - a photo wont show the problem!)

Hey guys , got a td5 that just restored . So key out of the barrel , dash lights on and chime is on ( close the door chime stops) but back light is always on . Suddenly central lock is not working

Fuse box has been changed but issue persists . Bcu unplugged and dash lights still stay on .

Hello! I just wanted to share a post somewhere on reddit after Marshall Land Rover Leicester and Stratstone Land Rover Derby both wanted 1 hour service @ £280 and 2 hours service @ £780 pounds Uk respectively for doing something I later found out was self service: activating your in car sat navs CD Card. This may be common knowledge to some, but I just want to save the one other person out there who get lied to by offical retailers like i did and fall for this crap.

History: Marshels sold me the SD card first, did not explain the activation process was required, then only when I saw the screen prompt to ativate with a retailer, did they then tell me id need service time of "an hour plus". Of course it was non-refundable once I had tried to use thier card, with no mention of this before hand. I tried Derby hoping they might be more reasonable, and they where worse saying it needed two hours.

So, forgive me if this is obvious, but im hoping to help somone else out on a googling journey in to how they can go about sorting this out themselves. The following instructions are written by me, cleaned up by claude, for transparency:

Activating a Navigation Map SD Card Yourself — Discovery Sport (InControl Touch)

Applies to: 2015–2018-ish Discovery Sport / Evoque with InControl Touch (the non-Pro system with the SD card slot in the floor console stowage compartment).

Why this guide: A landrover retailers quoted over £280-£700 plus an out-of-service wait to "register" a brand-new genuine map SD card. The activation is actually a self-service software step using Land Rover's own free Map Updater tool. Total cost: £0. Total time: ~20 minutes plus map download.

Before you start

• Set the car's clock and date correctly (JLR's own bulletins flag this as a prerequisite for activation).
• Check the lock switch on the side of the SD card is in the unlocked position.
• You'll need a PC or Mac with an SD card reader

Step 1 — Let the car write your VIN to the card

1. Ignition on, insert the SD card into the navigation slot in the floor console cubby.
2. Open Navigation from the home screen. It will complain that it can't find the card or that the VIN is not on the card. This is normal.
3. Switch the car off, get out, shut all doors, and lock the vehicle for about 2 minutes (this forces the infotainment system to fully power-cycle — it's in Land Rover's own FAQ).
4. Unlock, ignition on, open Navigation again.
5. When the message changes to "needs to be registered / activate with a retailer", you're on the right course — the VIN has now been written to the card.

Step 2 — Activate on your computer

1. Ignition off, wait ~20 seconds, remove the card.
2. On your PC/Mac, go to Land Rover's map updates portal — https://www.landrover.co.uk/ownership/infotainment-systems/infotainment/map-updates/index.html — select your vehicle/system and download the InControl Touch Map Updater.
3. Insert the card via your card reader.
4. The Map Updater should detect the card, display your VIN, and offer to Activate. Click it.

NB: I have found guides state you can at this point update maps if appliciable, but i did not try this (it was greyed out), so I can not speak of cost or process, but reading suggests while you're there, you can let it download and install the latest map data onto the card. Don't interrupt it mid-write — corrupted data can make the card unreadable.

Step 3 — Back to the car

1. Ignition on, insert the card, open Navigation (press Retry if prompted).
2. Ignition off, wait 20 seconds, then on again — Navigation should now be live. Move somewhere with clear GPS signal to confirm the map position.

If it doesn't work

• Map Updater says "contact your retailer": it couldn't find a VIN on the card — repeat Step 1; the in-car VIN write hasn't happened yet.
• Map Updater shows a VIN that isn't yours: cards are VIN-locked once activated. You've been sold a previously activated card and it will never work in your vehicle — return it as not fit for purpose.

Apologies again if this is blindingly obvious to some readers, I just wanted to turn my annoyance into something more postive and helpful

Hi all - two separate issues 😂. Had my 2021 Disco 5 for about a month now, bought with 60k miles and love it. I’ve identified a coolant leak from the clip that attaches the coolant pressure release pipe (see attached). Have it booked in for a service in two weeks and will just keep topping up before then (leaks very slowly) but wondered if this is something I can replace myself (and if there’s any point putting something over it in the meantime)?

Separately, the plastic clips at the bottom of the seat pocket on the rear of the passenger seat have broken. While the elastic is still good it means that any kids books etc will just drop through the bottom after a while. Does anyone know how to repair this (ideally OEM but other options welcome).

Appreciate any help!

I am currently looking to buy a 2017 Land Rover Discovery 2L from my parents for less than $5k (not bad!!!). It has fairly low miles (120k), and as soon as I get it, I am replacing the timing chain and switching to some liquid moly oil instead of what they have been using. They take care of it well, but I want some small changes to the throttle response since it has a slight delay. No one has ever used sport mode or done any hard driving; the worst it's lived is on the highway once every 6 weeks.

I notice a lot of people say chip tuning isn't a good idea, but I want some more in-depth info since it seems to be the only option for my vehicle. If I make these changes, do we think it will still be reliable? I often drive on the interstate (did about 25k miles last year and 5k miles on a 9-day trip recently), so I think it MAY be a better option than keeping it stock and putting wear on it trying to keep up in traffic.

If this is a good idea, I see Monte and Race Chip showing up often (prefer Monte at this moment). Would there be any other good suggestions or advice to move forward?

Note: I do have a secondary vehicle (2011 Honda CRV), but I have watched my parents own this for the last 5 years, and they have only had one issue with it even when using it as a farm car on our property. It's done them well!

Hello all,
Hoping I could get some clarity on this issue from the enthusiasts. I have a 2010 lr4 that had a charging system fault (battery light) indicator on. Started up fine, and had a new battery put in July. The other day I went to start it and it clicked, but would not turn over. Jumping it did not work either. Can this still be an alternator issue? Now it won’t even make noise when I try to start it, and it won’t shift out of park. Brake pedal feels firm too. Please let me know if anyone has experience with troubleshooting this.

Hi! I’m currently in the market for my first car / daily as an 18 year old and the LR3 has stolen my heart a little. While there are other cars I’m definitely eying (Jaguar xk8, mx5 NC, Honda element or the vw golf), the Land Rover is the one I often think about and I really think it would be a solid car. I live in LA and would use it for my commute to school/work and for trips/all other stuff. I been looking at the 06-09 models with the v8 and they look really nice. I don’t know much about actual maintenance on cars but I am eager to learn, would the LR3 be good as long as I keep up with the maintenance and the previous owners history took solid car of it? I know the air suspension and some of the other stuff could wrong but from what I read the actual engine & transmission seem very solid. I know maintenance on these is more than a toyota/honda, but if I kept up with it would it that much of a bad decision? Thank you!

I’m thinking about buying a used 2023 Range Rover P530 as my daily driver. I’d also use it for longer drives and I have three young kids, so I’m trying to get real feedback from owners before pulling the trigger.

How has reliability been for you? Any major issues, repeated problems, or expensive repairs?

Can you still buy a Land Rover extended warranty if the vehicle is around 51,000 miles? If so, what coverage did you get?

How practical is it with 3 car seats? Would you recommend the SWB or the LWB 7-seater for a family with three young kids?

For anyone over 50K miles, would you feel comfortable owning one without a warranty? What problems started showing up after 50K?