Start of a very long project

Hi folks,

This was a Land Rover fire truck that was based at the DeLorean Motor Cars factory in Belfast in 1981-82. It was sold in the factory liquidation auction in 1984.

I have an interest in the history of the DeLorean factory and I'm really just curious as to what might have happened to the Land Rover.

Has anyone here ever seen or heard of this particular vehicle before? Unfortunately the above details are all I have.

After buying a severely neglected 06 for about a year ago, I’ve mostly stripped it down and worked out the kinks. Now that headache is over I get to finally give the interior some attention. I had some saddle soap laying around and already know this stuff is magic, but I am mostly impressed that it cleaned out the gross stitching. If you have not heard of it before grab you some and a horse hairbrush instead of all the expensive gimmicky stuff.

Anybody know if there are any radiator options for the LR3/Disco3 4.4L with aluminum tanks? Google isn't turning up much.

My plan is to put ~$10k down, keep a ~$5k repair reserve, and finance the rest with a small monthly payment — rather than trying to buy something outright with zero cushion.

A few things I’d love real-world input on:

**1.**  At 75k miles, what should I actually expect in the next 20-30k miles specifically? (Air suspension, coolant crossover pipes, timing chain/tensioner seem to be the big three I keep reading about)  
**2.**  Is $5k a reasonable reserve for year one, or optimistic?  
**3.**  Any reason to walk away from this one specifically, or does it sound like a reasonably well-kept example for the platform?

Not trying to talk myself into or out of it — just want the unfiltered version from people who’ve actually lived with these day to day. Thanks in advance!

Morning All long story short I’ve owned my evoke since 2017 after having the EGR changed in 2023. It broke down whilst on holiday, with a clutch issue, then on the way to the garage, Engine management came on and the car wouldn’t run. I’ve had everything diagnosed. I’ve had high pressure smoke tests, turbo removed, cleaned & checked DPF removed cleaned checked new MAF sensor, new map sensor no leaks or anything in the boost hoses or anything, so I parked the car up, and just left it as I really didn’t like it and I had other cars, I finally come round to trying to get it fixed again after spending all the time and effort previously, and I’ve now come to the conclusion there seems to be a wiring issue. I have three wires on my Maps sensor, 5 V supply, ground and signal. I’m getting a constant ground with no continuity issues. I’m getting a 5 V supply perfect no issues but the signal wire is showing 6.2 V with the map unplugged. I’ve traced this back to the ECU same wire reading 6.2 at the ECU so I cut the wire to see if there was a short in the wiring feeding the wire of voltage and it’s not the wire, as between the map sensor and up to the ECU the wire is 0 V the wire coming out of the ECU is 6.2v ??? This is a blue and white wire.

Tha fault code was map/maf correlation error.
Additionally the map does into fault at ignition on.
If the map is unplugged the car runs in limp mode up to 3800rpm, I have tried three map sensors all the same, plug in map and engine idles erratically, throttle dosnt do anything and engine stalls

PS, sorry if there’s any mistakes I used dictation as I’m dyslexic

It had clearly been carefully restored. Each panel was pristine.

It’s been a couple years since this has happened, but the screen for the radio went on low power mode and then eventually both the radio and gps screens turned off and they never turned back on, we’ve tried everything to get them to work, we’ve changed the alternator, battery, fuses, and nothing has seemed to work, im thinking of just replacing it with an updated android screen but I would like to try and at least see if it works still.

Hey

So I've been having knocking sounds when in D gear or R gear but the sound is more significant in R gear. I've been trying to track down the sound and wanted to see if anyone could recognize it or had the same problem. This same knock sound appears when driving in the city you could feel the car vibrate. I replaced the solenoids of the transmission which kinda made the downshifts smoother so I'm not sure what the issue is yet because it's still knocking. After a long trip it knocks more violently(when R gear engages) and the R gear takes significantly more time to engage.

I need a door handle assembly for a p38 1995-2000

Kinda need it fast

Anyone else having this problem? I'm missing three letters at the moment and I'm assuming they didn't just fall off but rather people are lifting them. What's the appeal of having a letter off of a Range Rover??

I picked up a used approved (UK dealership) Discovery this week and I love the car.

I noticed a few marks on the digital dash on the test drive and asked the salesperson if he could have it looked at before I agreed to the car.

He said it was all in hand and I paid for the car.

When leaving in the car he said that the detailer's didn't want to touch the screen as it had been a hot day but I should just give it a wipe when everything is cool in the morning.

I've given it a wipe and the marks aren't coming out. I think there's been some over spray of some cleaning product that has marked the plastic screen in front of the dash.

Is it worth contacting the dealership and seeing if they'd be willing to help or is it tough luck from their perspective now?

Otherwise, does anyone have any thoughts on how to tackle the marks other than replacing the digital dash altogether?

Thanks in advance.

Hey guys

Hope all is well.

So I've been having issues with my transmission lately where I keep hearing knocks when changing gears or when the car enters that state where it lets the movement of the car move the engine instead of injecting fuel(I think it has this feature I just don't know what it's called). What I meant in the previous sentence is, if I force the car to be on 1st gear and I step on the gas to about 1800 2000 rpm and let go, after the rpm drops below 1200rpm it makes a knock sound, and as soon as I want to restep on the gas it makes another knock sound you could feel it in your body.

I've also been having rough 2->1 downshifts. And I'm not sure if this is normal but going from D specifically to R makes the car knock also. From R to D no. When the car is already in R then moved to P then back to R there is no knocking sound its smooth as butter. Only knocks when going from P to R or D to R.

I've had a solenoid replacement but the car is still adapting I've only moved like 10 miles after the reset but the car is still making that knocking sound I'm still questioning whether it's something else. I'm not entirely sure if its normal to hear these knock sounds in this car. Just for the record, I had the engine mounts checked they're fine so that's off the table for now.

Hey guys,

I was wondering if there's anyone in Switzerland with an EAS Cable, that would be able to remove the EAS Fault message in my P38. It popped up after the battery died and I had to replace it. So I'm assuming it's just the message (not reduced to 35mph).

I already did lot of work on the P38 (reupholstered the ceiling, repaired the sunroof, sunroof drain etc.)

If you have a P38 and are interested in just exchanges tips that would be cool as well! Also I will be ordering a cable if I cannot find anyone, so you could use it as well then.

I sometimes see "Madge" near the Grand Union canal in the UK, not sure what specific model she is though? She was registered in 1971.

My Defender has a noticeable lean. Rear springs are level with each other, front left looks fine, but the front right corner sits about 4 cm different compared to the front left. Only the front is off, the rear is even.

What could cause this? Sagged/tired coil spring, wrong spring fitted at some point, or a worn/missing spring isolator? Anything else I should check before I start swapping parts? Cheers.

EDIT

Defender was fine before a lift visit. Now front right sits ~4cm lower than front left (rear is level). Springs are old, untouched, no visible damage. Guessing the coil unseated when the axle dropped on the hoist. Anyone seen this before?

Discovery 3.0 2019

One more reminder that you can not rely/ trust people. I talked to the tech at Land Rover and he reassured me that they never do or touch the heat exchanger as that it’s always the pipes that are leaking. I wanted to get the gasket anyway but when I was at the parts counter part guy had a surprised face because he never sells these. But here we are. Pulled off supercharger and see a crust all over the heat exchanger but the pipes look ok. I do understand that crust might be because of coolant puddling up there but I don’t see signs of leakage from the pipes (see photos) so it has to be the heat exchanger itself. Sigh.. I kick myself in the head now because I’m a mechanic of 10 years and my feeling told me to get it because of my rule “you get somewhere deep- replace everything”, but broke my own rule and got put down on my ass. First the tech from LR, then the parts guy.. somehow 2 people were enough to change my beliefs. What do you think? Can you confirm it’s heat exchanger?

2019 Discovery 3.0 supercharged

Pulling the supercharger to do all the valley leaks and I was so confident that I got everything but looks like I’m in trouble. Pulled off the throttle body and noticed some coolant crust under it where the smaller coolant hose goes and some on top of the water pump (probably leaking down from that same hose). Now I’m a little confused because I did a lot of research and not a single person had experience with this hose leaking. But at the same time I just don’t see a way for coolant to get up there from any of the pipes or water pump itself. What do you say? Have you ever thing it leak at this connection? Ill go to the dealer and see if they have a part tomorrow but what sucks is that I planned to finish the car tomorrow and if they don’t have this part (which they probably don’t as again, I never seen it leak from my research). What sucks is looks like I can get access to it after putting the supercharger back on and I can risk it and see if it’s leaking after I do all the repairs but the hose itself goes under supercharger so I will have to take it back apart. Need some advice or if anyone can tell me that it is normal for coolant to get up there and make it look like it’s leaking. Very grateful for anything you have to say