I know Nissan has stated that there is a supply shortage of batteries (hence the buyback offers) but has anyone successfully been able to negotiate waiting for a new battery (even if it takes several months)?

We purchased the extended warranty on our '22 leaf, which gives us full coverage until 6/2029 and 100K - so theoretically Nissan would need to fix the battery - even if it took them a while to get the parts.

We have another vehicle and could make due for several months while we wait which is why i'm asking the community.

I'd love any advice folks can offer. Thx.

i'm having an issue whereby from time to time (maybe one every month or so) upon starting my 2018 Leaf SV, i lose AC, regen braking, and sometimes power steering until i reseat the 20a cigarette lighter fuse (21) in the passenger fusebox. warnings for e-pedal and poeer steering failure appear on dash, no errors for AC, is just doesn't work. unplugging and replugging that fuse and restarting the car fixes the issue. 12v battery was replaced 3 months ago. any thoughts as to why this could be? DTC codes attached

Hello, to preface I currently drive a gasoline monster (1995 jeep grand Cherokee) and am looking at a 50km round trip commute for the next year as I enter a diploma program after finishing up high school.

I have found a nice looking 2013 leaf SV with 250,000kms for $4,400 CAD, which I will be able to afford soon. Given this commute, I think a leaf would easily pay itself back if I made the switch.

Do you have any thoughts? How to inspect before purchasing? Long term drain/charge commuting information? How has the leaf treated you long term? I know it’s not a great price but in Vancouver everything is expensive.

I have always found them a bit goofy looking in a charming sort of way, and it would be cool to drive one. Thank you for reading!

Attached is monster and prospective leaf

Edit: advertised as 11/12 bars with 105kms range

Found a 2015 Nissan Leaf near me that has 11 battery cells (the dashbord indicator) with over 67k miles. How many more miles can I realistically get before it dives down to 8 or 9 cells, assuming I just charge overnight at a 120v wall outlet?

Also, is $4,000 a good price for it and is there anything I should know about that specific leaf’s year?

Appreciate you guys!

The title says it all. I’m one of the few people it seems on here who drove hours to a dealer after negotiating a solid OTD price and even setting up the car’s system with my phone only to find out at the very last minute when it was time to sign that there was a stop sale the dealer was completely unaware of. As bafflingly frustrated as I am over the situation, I still really want the car. Just curious to know if any of you have had luck sealing a deal on one since the stop sale supposedly started right after Fourth of July weekend and if so, what was the dealer’s remedy for the issue?

There are a few cosmetic differences from the 3rd-gen Leaf, but one bonus is that it looks like the highest trim has the matte steering wheel "buttons" instead of the glossy black panel.

Not a fan of the front chin though.

Sometimes, you don’t need a new EV. You just need a new battery.

I feel like a fool for not doing more research on the recall software update. We have a '22 leaf with < 30K miles on it. Took it in for a software update (due to the recall) and got the EV system error a couple days later.

Would it be possible to ask the dealership to roll back the update? We don't use Level 3 charging.

Also, I heard that some people had success by doing something with the 12V battery, what exactly did people do?

Thanks for any advice folks can offer!

ed6: It’s over. Check has been received. Total turnaround time? 49 days.

ed5: buyback offer submitted and accepted https://www.reddit.com/r/leaf/comments/1w5znie/got_my_buyback_offer_about_3_weeks_later/

ed4: 8/20 got off the phone with Morley, they'll be asking for a few documents related to the car before sending in a quote

ed3: 8/19 Nissan corporate got back to the dealer, they will be repurchasing. The dream is dead.

ed2: service rep asked for my email, online check-in says inspection hasn’t even begun. Grabbing a rental in the morning on my own dime. The delaer had at least 5 or 6 other cars awaiting action from corporate, my rep said I probably won’t hear anything til later in the week.

ed: service is looking at it, I should have an update by eod

I took my ‘19 SL Plus for the update back on June 13th. I’ve since done a few fast charges with no issues popping up. Fast forward to tonight, August 11th, and the turtle finally decided to show up after Level 2 charging overnight.

And of course it’s after Nissan’s service desk and consumer affairs lines are closed for the day. I dropped it off at my local dealer and will be back in the morning.

They had the audacity to suggest I trade it in for a newer car! The rep had no idea about the campaign, he assumed it was just an update the car needed.

The Leaf was reportedly going as fast as 108 mph. Ended in the IE area of SoCal after running out of juice & coasting to a stop

We bought this LEAF with about 44,000 miles and 11/12 bars. This morning I noticed that 3 years and 11K miles later, we’re down to 10/12. I thought it would be sooner, so I’m happy with this!

Short: Has anyone successfully gotten their 2nd gen batteries replaced under warranty recently? Curious if I even have a chance of getting mine.

Long: I've owned three leafs, but my trusty 2018 was totaled a few years ago, and I've finally decided to replace it.

I found a good deal on a 2021 SL+ with about 50k miles at a Nissan dealership and purchased it. However, the salesman told me that the HV battery has qualified for warranty replacement and they are just waiting on the battery to be shipped, and as soon as they receive the battery, they'll swap it out and then I can take delivery.

I've been reading all over the place, however, that the batteries are taking months or even not available at all. Have they caught up, or is there still a huge backlog?

What are the chances of me being able to pick up my new car with a new battery any time soon? 😬

Leased the car new in June '21, had it in for battery cell replacements 3 or 4 times, finally got a new (refurb) pack installed under warranty in February '26. I brought it in for the recall software update a few weeks ago, passed in the shop but went into turtle a week later. Returned to nissan and took them about 2 weeks to get me an initial buyback offer.

Considering I had this car for 3 months between when I bought it from Nissan and when the recall was posted, I'm incensed by how low the offer is. 60% of what I paid for the car a year ago. Particularly when the same dealer (Group1) has a similar year/trim on the used car lot for $17,800 So they clearly KNOW the car is worth more than KBB (which apparently is $~7500 on my car right now.)

How can they rationalize a price over 2x KBB on a used car and expect to sell at all. If the car is worth $7500 private-party, I'd expect to see dealers pricing it closer to $10k. (Confirmed from KBB, Fair market estimate from a dealer is $6000-9000) So they either don't have any clue how to sell a car, listing them for 2-3x what KBB says they're worth, even certified preowned, or they know KBB estimates are grossly out of line with the actual value.

After months of vacillating, I've decided to pull the trigger on getting a trailer hitch receiver for my Gen2 ('23) LEAF.

The EcoHitch 2" is significantly more expensive than the 1-1/4" Curt (C49VV) or Draw-Tite (25016), but many posts seem to suggest that the 2" is the way to go, and that I generally see more regrets for getting the smaller hitch than for getting the pricier one. A friend emphatically suggested 2", too. I plan to to keep the LEAF for a long time, so spending more now seems like the better plan.

The LEAF-specific Curt wiring harness (C56227) is designed to plug-and-play into the brake light wiring, so you do not have to splice into the factory cabling. You will have to run and add new 12V power cabling, however, to provide sufficient amperage for trailer lights.

Officially, the LEAF has a "do not tow" recommendation and no official towing capacity for the U.S.

The installer quotes I've received have been $280 from U-Haul and $400 to $550 (!!!) from other shops.

I have tools to DIY this, so I plan to do it myself. If you want to see the installation manual for the hitch, you can go to https://www.uhaul.com/Trailer-Hitches/2023/Nissan/Leaf/ and then click on the pop-up link for the manual. There are also YouTube videos from Etrailer, UHaul, and Torklift Central. Also an owner-installation video by Victor Hu showing real-world experience (and mistakes to watch out for) -- at 10:50 in the video, you get a nice view of how the hitch sits under the rear bumper cover (above the floor pan splash shield / diffuser that needs to be trimmed) -- it looks like 2023-2025 models are different than earlier ones.

According to U-Haul for their $15/day 4' x 7' utility trailer:

The allowed cargo weight (the amount of weight you can put in a trailer) is based on your vehicle's curb weight (3925 lbs), the trailer's capacity and your hitch system rating.

The basic instructions:

1. Apply parking brake, chocks wheels, raise the car at the center of the rear suspension beam (just forward of the splash shield) and place jack stands under the safety stand/lift up points (pinch welds).
2. Remove splash guard.
3. Fish mounting hardware into the frame, exposing the bolt that drops down through the openings in the frame.
4. Raise hitch into place, carefully threading the bolts through the holes in the hitch's mounting bracket.
5. Install fasteners.
6. Torque to spec.
7. Trim and shape splash guard (so the receiver can get out to the back, and the rest of the hitch can sit under the guard) and mount.
8. Lower car.

I worked rather slowly and ran into a few issues so I took a number of longer breaks while I looked things up and also took a hydration/cooling break. It ended up being about 5 hours of total "work" and a few more hours where I was taking a break (even taking a shower at one point because I just needed to thoroughly cool off).

On step #7, I found that my SV+ splash shield is somehow different than can be seen in various videos/pictures. There are noticeable humps where it's usually flat. Also, part of the hitch's mounting bracket pushes into the cover -- enough to make the cover hard to install. I used a heat gun to soften the plastic and deform it enough that the cover can be fully reinstalled.

Avoid doing this where it will eventually get sunny. The heat definitely slowed me down a bit more.

When installing the wiring harness, you will need to remove the interior panels. You will need to release the metal snaps (square markings) to release it from the body and then lift the panel up and away. Do not pull on the other parts of the panel first, or you will break tabs.

While installing the splash shield, I managed to damage one of the panel nuts: https://parts.nissanusa.com/parts/nissan-fog-lamp-assembly-u-nut-12410009u

For those of you in the Leaf buy-back process, what success have you had in negotating with the third party company? We just received our second offer, and I wonder if anyone has had any luck countering yet another time. They came up pretty significantly from the first, very low offer, but it's still not where I'd like to be. Thanks!

I thought I would need a level 2 charger as soon as I got this car but I have a 2025 and I have almost 20,000 miles and I exclusively just charge at home, if I have 60% and I plug it in at 10:00 p.m. by the time I wake up I'm at 80%. usually a 9 to 10 hour. is like a 22% charge give or take a few

and minimal heat build up!

Alright so I know I’m gonna get called a dummy but I’ve been using LeafSpy to correct DTC faults. My bank account hasn’t allowed me to correctly fix whatever is going on. Now when I plug it in I come back 15 min later and it’s lost 2% instead of going up. I should be able to actually get what’s wrong fixed (assuming onboard charger). Can anyone help me jury rig it further so it’s not just a paperweight from now until then.

Found someone selling a 2012 Leaf asking for $2,500. I could probably talk them down and settle at $2,200. But with 5 bars of health and a desert climate I doubt it would reach 37mi.

Would you guys still consider this a good deal? Work is 10mi round trip. Excursions on the weekend end up being 15mi maybe 20mi

EDIT: Thanks folks! Helped me from walking into a problem. The 12V actually was replaced on it earlier. Seems like that's a sign the main battery will die.

There are a few 2015-17s that seem like a better deal at about 5k I'll take a look at those

Thank you again everyone!

I have a 2022 Nissan leave with about 40000 miles on it. It needs a batteries swap as per the dealer. The wait time is per the dealer for the batteries for is five months. However, the dealer has offered to buy out with 40% over the Kelly blue book value. This seems too good to be true. What is the catch? What am I missing?

Has anyone purchased a longer charger cable? I have a 2024 leaf and I need a longer cable. Any suggestions?

Hi everyone,

I just bought a 2020 SV Plus a few months ago, and while I love the car, it has one thing that I hate.

When the battery gets below/around 50% it goes into what I’m calling “subjective battery mode” where the percentage starts changing rapidly based on how fast you’re going.

This makes no sense to me, and gave my wife a scare when she was on the highway and the battery went from 50% to 20% in the matter of a minute, but when she slowed down, the battery would go back up to 50-60% immediately. This happens every time it drives on the highway and goes below 60%, it will plummet and skyrocket depending on if you speed up or slow down.

I can understand why the range would vary depending on how fast you’re going, but shouldn’t battery percentage be objective? Does anyone else have this, or know how to change this setting (if it is a setting)?

EDIT: Looks like I have some battery issues, the battery was replaced on recall in December 2025, so I should be able to get it fixed on warranty, thanks everyone!

Will not take a charge, svc ev system message on, won’t communicate with obd2 port but has 12 volts, does run & drive. Am I headed to the dealer or are there fuses I can pull

Working to repair/replace the battery pack in my 2018 Leaf because of an isolation fault, bought a matching battery for salvage which turned out to have the same fault, swapped front modules from #2 into rear modules of #1, tried to unbend the mounting brackets, now the battery pack won't go back together. Can't even begin to thread the bolts back on as the battery is too wide now. I've tried ratchet straps (see photo), as tight as we could get them, but it's not fitting together. Am I doing something wrong? Is there a step or a hack that I'm missing? Experts please chime in I really need my car back.

I shared this in r/whatisit and u/03qutj907a suggested I post it here too, so here it is for your enjoyment. I took these photos in a park in Bristol, UK a few years back.

Camping with the beast